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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 11,481 views)
Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 20th, 2016, 17:05:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Bloody Hell!!!
Just googled the minisport disc kits - how expensive.

Hmm - plan B, I think!
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jimnaylor
Posted on: March 21st, 2016, 20:31:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: Bedfordshire
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Standard 8.4 discs & brakes? plenty on ebay in various conditions and prices. Interestingly at the moment there is also a set of non vented metro 4 pots, which don't come up that often. Looks like they need a full rebuild though. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini.....uNW7HNy#ht_25wt_1190
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jimnaylor
Posted on: March 21st, 2016, 20:51:17 Quote Report to Moderator
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Just noticed someone is selling brand new sets of 8.4 calipers, drilled disks & ebc green stuff pads for £150. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEK1.....FU206N#ht_2099wt_952
Hardly worth buying S/H at that price, although you would need some mini drive flanges as the metro ones you have won't fit.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 25th, 2016, 21:04:26 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks Jim.
Solid 8.4" looks the way to go, and I'm sure I've got the flanges somewhere.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 2nd, 2016, 19:41:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Got hese through the post:

I'll paint the callipers before they get dirty - you won't be able to see them through the wheels but it may help the brake cleaner do it's stuff when servicing the brakes.
So with the shell on/engine in I've managed to get the front subframe rear mount back on and tightened up.  Next to offer up the exhaust manifold.  No problem getting it into position:

Sorry about the shaky pics - hope fully this next photo shows the next problem which surfaced - the lambda sensor mount:

Too tight for comfort!
It's a Specialist Component manifold.  I've got one on the mini too, so I had a quick look and sure enough, on that the lambda sensor position is more traverse to the engine bay.
Not to worry - there a second lambda position on the SC link pipe.  I'd have to extend the lambda wiring, but when I put the link pipe on I'm not sure if the lambda will interfere with the brake pipe position:
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 2nd, 2016, 19:48:39 Quote Report to Moderator
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Just a couple of pics I took with the mini's sport pack wheels on (the mini's still on the winter steels/winter tyres).  It looks quite good with these on I think:


But I've still got the offset to the right:

I'll be using the narrow winter wheels for the IVA I think  

Last modified April 2nd, 2016, 19:49:22 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 3rd, 2016, 18:06:41 Quote Report to Moderator
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So, got the front subframe, rear mounts tightened today, along with trial fitting of the engine steady.
On that - I've misplaced the screws for the original engine steady (screws into the engine block).  Any idea what thread these are?
And got a couple of coats of paint on the callipers:

Progressing once more  
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: April 3rd, 2016, 21:10:54 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Engine steady bolt is 5/16'' UNF x 1 7/8''

 
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 9th, 2016, 11:31:37 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks Neil - of course it is!
Fine in Iron, Coarse in ally.  Should've thought  
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 10th, 2016, 17:08:38 Quote Report to Moderator
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So, this weekend I've managed to make a pair of front subframe, front mounts.  I took a couple of exhaust mounts, cut of the threads, drilled through and put a stud through to connect the subframe to the car (this after discovering the teardrop mounts wouldn't work):

I started fitting some of the ancillaries to the engine, primarily the coil pack:

I fitted the engine steadies (both sides):

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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 10th, 2016, 17:24:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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I managed to refit the gear lever and linkage.  One thing that's got me a bit worried - I can get the forward gears but can't seem to engage reverse  
Offered up the coolant pipes.  I need to get some good quality, correct size jubilee clips now:

I offered up the upper radiator hose.  I need to get this from the engine side, to the radiator side of the very front slam panel.  I fitted up some of the panel edge rubber and offered the pipe through the gap.  It's not the most elegant of solutions but I can't think of another way of doing this:

I tried to remove the lambda sensor from the old exhaust manifold.  This obviously hasn't been removed since first fitting because all I succeeded in doing is round of the flats - I tried heating it for quite a while before hand too, so short of smashing the cast manifold I'm not sure I'll be able to reuse this:

The next thing I looked at was the speedo cable.  Looking at the mini I need to drill ahole almost directly behind the clutch cylinder:

So, some more progress - some more problems to overcome.

ETA Meant to ask - the silicon pipe I have to reach through to the radiator is too long.  What the best way to get a clean cut on these - hacksaw or stanley knife?

Last modified April 10th, 2016, 17:34:32 by Graham Bichard
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L_Jonez
Posted on: April 11th, 2016, 08:24:00 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've used tin snips with good results on hoses
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Brian
Posted on: April 11th, 2016, 20:21:25 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted April 10th, 2016, 17:24:57 at here
L]
I tried to remove the lambda sensor from the old exhaust manifold.  This obviously hasn't been removed since first fitting because all I succeeded in doing is round of the flats - I tried heating it for quite a while before hand too, so short of smashing the cast manifold I'm not sure I'll be able to reuse this:




It is my understanding that the lambda sensors have a fairly finite life span, and easily get fouled by oil and gas and become inaccurate. If it's been on long enough to have welded itself into place, then it's probably done regardless.

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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 17th, 2016, 18:48:30 Quote Report to Moderator
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I got in contact with Specialist Component about the exhaust lambda position.  They sent me a new centre piece with the lambda flange in a better position.
I don't know if they had a known bad batch, but I'm very happy with their help over this - it's a good while since I bought this manifold.  They could've just said no, but I'm glad they didn't and I'll certainly be going back to them in the future for more of their products (who is it on the forum who's fitting the SC 'wet manifold' injection system?).
I'll try and remember to get a photo before getting it all fitted, but I've had to 'thin out' the exhaust wrap where the two parts of the manifold are so close together.  And the joining piece at the bottom of the manifold, I'm going to have to get the 2nd lambda flange ground off and welded up - there isn't enough space in the transmission tunnel.
Other things I've managed to get done this weekend - I've drilled the hole in the bulkhead for the speedo drive.  And I've secure the forward ends of the loom/electric cables being careful not to exceed the 300mm maximum gap between fixings.
The loom and return cable:

The live cable has the windscreen washer pipe secured with it:

I'm hoping the interior carpet can be 'secured' by the door opening trim which means these cable will be nicely covered.
I fitted the coolant pipes to the engine:

I cut the rad upper pipe to length (new blade in the stanley knife and nippers to cut through the wire):

I'm not too happy with the pipe fitting onto the rad though.  The pipe is 28mm, I measure the fiat cinq rad inlet/outlet pipes at 32mm, and there isn't enough give in the silicon pipe.
An dI offered up the bonnet to make sure it fitted - by this I mean the milled thermostat housing looked like it would be a close fit but there must be a good 10mm or so clearance:

Last modified April 17th, 2016, 18:51:38 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 24th, 2016, 16:26:40 Quote Report to Moderator
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So - here's the new centre branch.  Looks much better:

Next to buy a new lambda.
And the inlet manifold in place:

The engine bay's starting to look more than a little busy.
This weekend I dug out the alternator I got with the engine.  Again, it's all getting a bit tight in there:

Getting at the belt will cause a few grazed knuckles I suspect.  I also need to budget for a new alternator - this one is seized solid.
And finally, I bought a few more bits of silicon hose.  A 180 degree 32mm U-bend to fit to the rad, a 32>28mm reducer for the inlet side.  For the return a 32>28mm reducer and I've just bent the hose around.  A 120 degree curve might be better, but these hoses aren't cheap.  I'll try the steering on full lock when the front end is down and as long as there's no risk of fouling I think it'll be okay:
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