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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 11,475 views)
Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 29th, 2018, 17:34:53 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've also wired up the front heated windscreen, fitted the throttle pedal return spring, bought and fitted the interior rear view mirror (which doesn't show a lot with the seat 'wings') and ordered an air filter sock to fit over the throttle body (can't find a low enough proper filter).
I decided the underfloor panel wasn't stiff enough so had a go at stiffening it using cardboard:

I cut the layer of carbon square first then to shape - the offcuts fit nicely between the cardboard too, so the are four main layers now with some areas five of six thick:

Marked up for cutting:

And cut out:


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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 29th, 2018, 17:44:35 Quote Report to Moderator
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This panel is now pretty stiff - not as light as I thought it would be mind (I think I've used too much resin to ensure it was soaked through, as well as using many layers of fibre).
Once cut out and holes drilled I coated the uncovered side, edges and holes with gelcoat to give it some protection.  This gave the shiny finish I was expecting on the lower surface.  In future perhaps I should make these 'back to front' so this side is on display (not that I'll be displaying my efforts!):

So, I don't think I'll be troubling McLaren with making carbon supercars, but I quite enjoyed making this panel.  I might look at trying to make one for the other side of the silencer (the idea of this panel was to help protect the fuel pump from dirt and crud).  Don't know if this photo works but this is it in position:



Mike - I've found out a figure for the MPI mini front axle (580kgs) so as you advise, will use this.  Good luck with your IVA - it'd be interesting to hear what areas they payed particular attention to.

So only paperwork to complete and send off and then wait for a date....
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mike brown
Posted on: April 30th, 2018, 17:30:00 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've booked mine for the end of May (the earliest they had for my local test centre). I've just insured it so I can drive it to the mot on Monday and the IVA. I've gone for an mot first as I can't find any reason why you can't do it first. You need one for registration if you have used second hand parts as far as I can tell. Most importantly I can get the emissions, brakes and headlights checked/set before the iva and someone else can spot things you have missed.
Mike
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 14th, 2018, 16:22:41 Quote Report to Moderator
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IVA application submitted!
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Craig Smith
Posted on: May 17th, 2018, 16:36:32 Quote Report to Moderator
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Good luck with your IVA's gents.

@Mike, Presumably you have insured your car using the VIN - did you have any issues doing that?

I'm in a similar position.  I need to obtain an MOT for registration (no IVA though thank goodness) and would prefer to drive my car to the test centre rather than trailer it.  How does that stand with regards to driving on the roads without a registration number?
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mike brown
Posted on: May 17th, 2018, 18:33:10 Quote Report to Moderator
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You can drive to and from a pre booked mot or IVA provided you insure the vehicle but after you can't drive it till it's fully road legal. I insured with Adrian flux using the chassis number but I technically have 60 days to provide them with a registration number. But obviously I need to pass the IVA and register it to do so.
Mike
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 9th, 2018, 12:52:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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So just when I'd got my hopes up, I'd sorted my road going insurance and go in the garage to start the final checks and....  The engine won't run properly.
I did suspect the fuel pump as it does make a strange whining when running (which was also a suggestion on turbominis wher I'd asked some questions - there are a number of people modding SPi/MPi cars on there) but then it always has.  But the car has run cleanly in the past.  In addition the plugs are showing signs of running rich/over fuelling - don't know if that would be the case if the pump was delivering too little fuel?

And all the clutch components are MPi (I did put the release bearing in incorrectly mind, but sorted that) as I know there were differences between SPi & MPi components which can cause problems.

I took the car around to my local garage on Wednesday evening for them to diagnose.  The garage plugged in their Bosch box of tricks (MPi loom is fitted with an OBD2 connector).  There were four fault codes showing - three related to the temperature sensor, one read inlet manifold pressure.  After clearing these and starting the car again only the temperature sensor fault reoccurred.  So that was changed out.  They also diagnosed a possible air lock in the cooling system (probably caused by me situating the header tank slightly lower than in a mini due to the lower bonnet line on the MM).  So this morning I raised the header tank, removed the return line from the thermostat housing to the header tank and let gravity take its course, reconnecting the return line when coolant ran out of the thermostat housing.  Hopefully this has removed any air from the system, but the garage did say the thermostat itself may have overheated and now be U/S.  I do have one in the shed - should I swap this out anyway?
Having done that this morning the car still isn't running much better - it wouldn't run above 2000rpm when cold/cool before bogging down.  (It sounds for all the world like my old escort on twin 45's - when you opened the throttle too quickly at too low revs it gives too much fuel and it splutters and coughs and bogs down)
When it had a little bit of heat in it, it did get to 2500-3000rpm once before stuttering.  On releasing the throttle the idle was barely able to keep it ticking over.  I checked all leads had sparks (again) and pulled one plug (again, photo above) and now the car won't start at all.

So symptoms are - it looks to be running very rich, runs smoothly enough on first starting but won't rev out, when warm it still won't rev out and when you close the throttle the idle becomes very poor.

Any suggestions/things to check welcome.

P.S. I phoned up on Friday and postponed my IVA (Friday being the last day I could do this without incurring penalties) until 18 July.
Also - does anyone know of a cheap OBD2 reader that would allow me to read the fault codes on an MPi?  I know from looking reviously the MEMS can be difficult to access (Sykes Pickavant I think did a system but its very expensive when they come up on ebay with the Rover module).
Oh, and on arriving at the garage (the longest I've ever driven it - about a mile, with my wife following in her car) I noticed the passenger door lower hinge is fractured.  I'm pretty sure that's just happened (and is I think an IVA failure point).
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Olly Lewis
Posted on: June 11th, 2018, 13:17:58 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello Graham,

Sounds like an air leak to me and Lambda overcompensating! Considering there was a fault on plenum pressure too!!

Might be worth firing it up and spraying loads of brake cleaner around the plenum!

It's worth a look.

Cheers
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 17th, 2018, 11:59:47 Quote Report to Moderator
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Olly, that's exactly what I did following advice from Lance (at Green & Whites in County Durham), except I used Carburettor cleaner.
This is indeed the problem - I'm waiting for a new inlet gasket to be sent from Mini Spares.

On another point - anybody got tips on swapping over a door hinge?  One of mine has cracked across the hinge.  I've got a replacement hinge but am wondering why this one has cracked (misaligned putting too much stress through it?  Suspension too stiff? Etc.)
Also my hinges don't seem to have the gasket under neath them.  When I replace this one should I fit these (which might give a bit of cushioning themselves) or not?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 24th, 2018, 19:03:59 Quote Report to Moderator
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So, I've tried to sort the car this weekend - problem looks to be different thicknesses on the flanges of the exhaust and inlet manifolds.
New MPi gasket, ali and steel packing pieces made from what I have lying around (different thicknesses), 'old' style gasket made into packers (thought this might squash up). All I've succeeded in doing was raising the revs at which it dies. At least this seems to prove what the problem is.
Tomorrow I'm going to call Green & White and see if they can pick the car up and sort it (they've had to machine the manifolds before to get a good seal). If they can I'll ask them to give it a once over while they're at it too.

And to top it off I went out in the sun on the motorbike today and ended up getting a rear puncture! And I've only done about 150 miles on these tyres  
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Bent Larsen
Posted on: June 25th, 2018, 07:38:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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Graham
You know, of course, that the hinges are different and the only problem may be that they have been mounted incorrectly.
The doors on a mini are heavier and I've never seen the hinges on the mines broken

Bent
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 1st, 2018, 16:56:41 Quote Report to Moderator
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Bent, I didn't know the hinges were different but soon found out!
I did think the hinge might have been misaligned but when I swapped them over (after taping up the door, drawing on alignment marks and the like) I found there was a little wiggle room on the bolt holes so would like to think the original fitter loosely mounted these (as I did) before checking and tightening up.

I've removed the inlet and exhaust manifold yesterday.  The outer flanges of the exhaust are ~8.4mm thick.  The centre branch flange is 9.7mm thick.  The inlet manifold is 8.3mm.
I've linished down the inlet on emery paper so is as smooth/parallel as I can get it.  I'm going to try and get the outer flanges machined down (probably by grinding) but could have problems in getting these done so that they're parallel with each other.

On another note - I stripped down the inlet before smoothing it down and discovered one of the sensors had a covering of soot.  I'm not sure how this has occurred on the inlet side:
<a href="https://postimg.cc/image/e39vbsman/" target="_blank">DSC_0004[1]</a>
I'm not sure which sensor this is but once I get the manifolds back on I think I'll need to swap this over with the mini's unit and see if it cures the problem.  
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Craig Smith
Posted on: July 1st, 2018, 17:35:36 Quote Report to Moderator
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That is the idle control valve mate.

Last modified July 1st, 2018, 17:36:09 by Craig Smith
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Bent Larsen
Posted on: July 2nd, 2018, 06:31:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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Graham
Look and learn:

http://www.minispares.com/prod...../Fixings~Hinges.aspx|Back%20to%20shop

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Piffer94
Posted on: July 3rd, 2018, 11:39:24 Quote Report to Moderator
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This is an explanation
https://www.minimania.com/Mini_External_Door_Hinges


Last modified July 3rd, 2018, 11:39:42 by Piffer94
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