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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 11,418 views)
Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 6th, 2010, 20:13:40 Quote Report to Moderator
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Got one!

This is the one I was told about last year, when I signed up on here, from Acespeed in Shipley.
It came complete with engine/suframe/brakes and the like:

and is fitted with a nice new oil cooler!

Don't think I'll need an oil cooler, but you never know  .
I'm going to have to learn these new fibreglassing techniques though - for some reason they've put the loom through the bulkhead right behind the carb.  Doesn't look right to me!?!

It's the 3rd Mk6 shell produced (No1 is the Heritage demonstrator, No2 may have gone to Japan, so could be the first Mk6 UK customer car - thanks for the info Richard!), and was supplied in 2006.  Andy Harrison of Acespeed wasn't too impressed with the finish though, so had the body prepped and painted Porsche GT orange.  But with lots of work on, it got put to the side, and the project ground to a halt.  After two years sat in the corner of the workshop we managed to agree a price so now it's mine  .  Having sat for a couple of years (albeit in the workshop) the seatbelt mounting points have got a covering of rust - the first job I'll have at Easter is to paint these with Krust!:

I could've bought an older car cheaper I suppose, but I've always been keen to build a new car - it'll just take a bit of time while I save up some more pennies (and overcome the miriad of IVA problems I'll encounter along the way!).
It came complete with carbon fibre covered dash:

(Oh, and see my nice new carbon fibre knob!  Lovely!)
How long is this going to take?  Well, the cars in the North-east and I'm not, so it may take some time I'm afraid (Oh and now I know John Dickens is up that neck of the woods, there'll be lots of questions flying his way  .  Then again, with the internet, you'll all be getting questions!!!)
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 6th, 2010, 20:54:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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Having a good look at the car last night I noticed that only one of the front subframe, rear mounts had been attached.  Speaking with Andy when they attached the towers there was a gap on one of them, he was intending to make a spacer plate to take up the slack.
Likewise, at the front of the subframe there was no mountings, with a 1" gap on the nearside:

and a 1/2 - 3/4" gap on the offside:

Now I've read enough threads on here about these cars not being symetrical, but is this the norm?  I think I'll invest in some adjustable bottom arms, and adjustable rear subframe brackets too!
Another thing!  The battery box has been bolted in the hatch area, right in the middle.  It's not positioned there on the Heritage car, and Garry's Mk4 has a moulded battery box located in the rear left corner.  Anyone know where the demonstrator car has it located?
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: March 6th, 2010, 23:55:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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The paint is a good match for the Flymo....
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 7th, 2010, 14:52:32 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Peter Bremner, posted March 6th, 2010, 23:55:21 at here
The paint is a good match for the Flymo....



Peter - the sad fact is the Flymo'll be a damn sight faster than the car for at least a good couple of years.....
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Garry Scott
Posted on: March 7th, 2010, 23:31:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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Nice one mate, glad you got one and a very good base to start with!
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 09:25:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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That looks really nice. I'd have loved to started with something so fresh...

The Asymmetry of the Mk 1-4 is fairly well documented. Its also very easy to see with the naked eye (especially on mine!) on the front. The radiator box never looks square, which is why I decided on the 45 holes, rather than one square hole. Looking at the first 2 pictures of yours, its easy to see how much better (read square) the front is... but looking at the indicator reccesses-its still not perfect!

I dont know about others, but rather than make up spacers, mine pulls in nicely when everything is bolted up.

What engine are you going with? Im sure you've got the MPI aswell...
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 10:06:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Garry!
Matthew, yes the plan is to make it an MPi.

The first job is to strip it right back to a bare shell, have a look at it and decide where to start.  I've got the MPi looms (which won't be going through the centre of the bulkhead), engine, steering column (for the updated switchgear) and heater - basically I want to use as many MPi parts as possible to try and keep the electrics as straight forward as possible.
As said, this is going to be a long project - the cars' currently at one end of the country, I'm at the other and its going to be like that for the next 12-18 months.
I have got the engine down south with me, and I've already ported the head to go on it (just a bit of chamber work to do), so I could crack on and rebuild that (I'm looking at a 1330, with Swiftune SW5i cam, 1.5 rockers etc, ultimately with a different ECU).  I'm just thinking it may be unwise to rebuild the engine now, only to have it sit for the next 2-3 years  .
As for the shell, the first thing I'll do is to fill in the bulkhead loom hole, and put a radius on the corners of the oil cooler cut out.  Not having had a good look at the front subframe, rear mount, I don't know how big the gap is to the mount.  Would'nt 'pulling' it in put an extra stress on the shell?  (Or would it cause everything to line up properly  )  And I'm assuming that the front of the subframe does in fact attach to the shell, as per a mini?  (There are no holes in the front of the shell like there are on the mini).
I'll probably look to use a Fiat Cinquicento radiator (they've been well received on here and are quite cheap!) - I take it, it's best to mount it in the front box in the verticle orientation (against where the oil cooler is currently sitting), as opposed to the inclined front-most surface?




And so the questionning begins!!!
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 10:22:14 Quote Report to Moderator
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Im sure that pulling in too far might put a little stress on the car, just depends how far is too far! I believe the holes are left to be drilled out by you... As each car/subframe is slightly different!

Am I right in thinking the Mk6 uses a late (single ower bolt) subframe? If so, surely the rubber teardrops will fit in the gap from the subframe to the body? I know they are different gaps... but it'll get it closer!

My radiator has been fitted inclined under the front - Helps me with space for the throttles out the front of the engine
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 10:38:00 Quote Report to Moderator
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Matthew - of course.  I'm forgetting you're going K-head crossflow!
Fitting it up against the inclined surface (with a mesh grill for protection) would free up some space, but Paul Harcourt has posted on here (guess what I've been doing!), a verticle mounted rad within a manufactured bulkhead.  Guess I'll get the rad and fan and offer it up, see what works best!
Yes, the car uses the single tower bolt subframe (someone else on here has suffered from this on an earlier car, if I remember correctly) so I can use the subframe I've built up so yes, the rubber/poly teardrops may do the trick - well remembered!
I've just spoken to Heritage - I'm planning on going down and having a look at the demonstrator.  I'll see what they've done.  I need to order another chassis plate to mount on the right hand side of the car (as per IVA), and I should be able to see if they're supplying the correct windscreen now too (although a heated screen does appeal!).  As I said, I don't think they've had much to do with IVA!
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Allan Brown
Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 21:32:37 Quote Report to Moderator
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The reason for leaning the radiator forwards is to give you more clearance for the distributor. But if you are using the MPI engine I guess you won't have that problem.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 22:10:10 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Allan Brown, posted March 8th, 2010, 21:32:37 at here
The reason for leaning the radiator forwards is to give you more clearance for the distributor. But if you are using the MPI engine I guess you won't have that problem.



Yep - no Marigold waterproofing for me!!!  

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paul harcourt
Posted on: March 9th, 2010, 16:21:01 Quote Report to Moderator
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I leaned the radiator forward to give me clearance with the starter motor solenoid and distributor as the Mk 3 I had originally had the separate solenoid mounted on the inner wheel arch.
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Garry Scott
Posted on: March 10th, 2010, 22:40:00 Quote Report to Moderator
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why dont you use the MPI rad? one of the lads on my forum has broken his MPI and is selling a load of bits of inclusing a complete rear subframe and engine plus all the loom and ecu, have a look on west country minis!
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 11th, 2010, 21:04:32 Quote Report to Moderator
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Garry, I'll have a look, but I'm pretty certain I'll use the Cinquicento radiator.  It has the advantage of being alloy (therefore not rusting), smaller (but still able to handle the expected power/heat produced), and a damn sight cheaper than the MPi front mounted rad.
I am after an MPi tank though, so I can utilise the fuel pump, swirl pot and pipework with a new MM (minivan) tank.  Oh, and I've got a rear subframe already - not an MPi one (with the mounting point for the fuel filter) but a brand new one, nontheless.  I'll make up a bracket/drill some holes, to mount a filter.
I spent a good hour and a half at Heritage in Semmington yesterday speaking to Rory Macmath.  He was able to give me a good idea of what needs to be done and how best to do it, for which I'm very grateful.
There are a good number of differences to your (Garry's) Mk4, as you'd expect (but that's the only other car I've had a good nosey around!).  For example, it's not an option to route the main loom through the sill recess, it needs to be routed internally.  The front mounts of the front subframe need to be offered up and then the mounting holes in the body drilled to accommodate.  Rory was also able to offer a suggestion to seal the fuel tank filler pipe:
Offer up and the tank, secure the flexible filler pipe the cut lengthways a piece of drain pipe (previously 'fitted' to the exposed length of fuel pipe).  Place this around the filler and then laminate it back together, sealing the top and bottom of the drain pipe to the shell!  Must remember that when I get to that stage!  
As I thought, they weren't too aware of the differences to the IVA (from the SVA).  But it would seem I got a better bargin than I realised - he was able to give me an idea of the price of the car as supplied  .
Other things I've been thinking about - I wasn't given the small bonnet locks when I got the car so would like to use lockable aerocatches if I can find a way of mounting them.  There is a space for the battery, to the left of the spare wheel well on the demonstrator.  It would seem to make sense to me to relocate the battery from the position it's in to there, and to use a sealable battery box too.  Can't hurt for IVA!
Oh, and I received a copy of John Dickens' fibreglassing book through the post today!  Hopefully Chapter 13 (and a little practise!) will help me get rid of the hole in the bulkhead!!!

Last modified March 11th, 2010, 21:09:48 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 1st, 2010, 20:30:55 Quote Report to Moderator
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Right, having nothing better to do the other night I went in the garage to scare myself:

...and came away thinking it might not be as bad as it seems.  As Matthew has already said - it really is a case of plug and play!  (It helps when you've got an MPi to compare the loom to - see it in th ebackground with the bonnet open?  There'll be a lot of that ahead!  )
There's very little to the rear loom - I'm sure there must be a way to feed that through the sills.  We'll see.
I hope there's a lot of room behind the dash - theres a lot of wiring to fit in behind there!  I'm a little disappointed to discover the loom goes through the centre of the bulkhead on the mini too.  Given the difference in shape, I'll have to come up with a solution to that (I don't really want to mount it there - space is too tight.)  And I count three holes needed in the bulkhead to pass the loom through.
And how the heck do you get the engine loom to look neat and tidy!  There's a lot to be said for a 60's vintage 850 MM!
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: April 2nd, 2010, 09:13:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Don't forget you have to have a negative loom and a battery cable as well.

 
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: April 2nd, 2010, 09:33:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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You might get a bit of inspiration from this link, a picture says 1000 words.

http://mini-craft.com/koukoku/marcos.html

 
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 5th, 2010, 19:52:30 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi Neil - did you post that link in another thread?  I've studied the pics on that SPi car in some depth!
I trust by a 'negative loom' you're refering to some sort of cable to take all the 'earths' back to the negative side of the battery?
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: April 5th, 2010, 23:54:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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You need a few cables, the main negative feed goes to the engine then a feed for the rear loom and another for the front loom although you could take it from the engine.

 
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 19th, 2010, 20:05:43 Quote Report to Moderator
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Right - I've just had a week at home so I was able to have a better look at my purchase!  This is what I found:
I'm going to have to learn fibreglassing - these gouge's must've been done on the trailer when I brought it up from Shipley.
Passenger side:

Drivers side:

From the inside you can just see where the gouge has penetrated through to the inside (the drivers side isn't so bad):

I take it the repair for this will be as per a hole (I'm referencing John's book here!)?
The bodywork isn't as good as the original photo's make it look - it's not a bad paint job, but there are a good number of scratches on it.  I noticed this one when I picked it up:

I also discovered another similar one on the NSR.  Again refering to the 'Good Book', I take it this will require a repair to the gel coat?
I could be really annoyed about these (especially the floorpan damage  ) but to be honest I couldn't stop grinning whenever I opened the garage door!
I did manage to clean the crap out of the interior, and take the existing loom out of the car and remove the carb/LCB and alternator.  Just to give an idea of how it'll look I offered up the injection inlet manifold  :

Looking at this picture, are the two holes (located just above the manifold, by the ratchet handle) for an ultimate engine steady?  And whats the opinion about the loom hole - should I fill and move as I originally thought?
I had thought the next job would be to remove the front subframe and engine, but am now thinking fitting the injection body and engine looms might be a better plan, trying to get a neat layout prior to putting in the MPi engine with all the ancillaries.  what do you think?
Oh, and the reason for getting only a little done on the car (apart from gutting the house ready for renovating, and digging/planting the allotment we've just been allocated)?  I thought I'd better sort out my garage ready for working in (and thereby giving my mother her's back!):

The kitchen work top I kept to do fibreglass work on (and doesn't the to-do board look empty  ).
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: April 19th, 2010, 23:09:54 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello, just regard the gouges as drainage holes! Looks like we have another Tertius on the forum with a garage that clean. Just wait till you start grinding....
Yes, they're the holes for the engine steady.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 20th, 2010, 19:23:38 Quote Report to Moderator
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Peter - having used the 'Search' button, I'll very much take that as a compliment having seen the standard of Tertius' work!  Don't expect it to stay this clean though  .
I've got a solid old set of chest of drawers to replace the workmate, and am still looking for some kitchen wall units to put on the rear wall for storage.  And I'm getting an 18' lean-to shed built along side the garage to hold the garden stuff/bikes etc so hopefully it won't migrate into the garage.  I'm planning to put some more florescent lights in the area of the workbench too, when the wall units are in.
Actually the picture makes the garage look bigger than it is - with a mini parked close to one wall I can strip and work on one wheel station.  To do the other side I have to move the car over to the other side.  Hardly ideal, but better than being outside!
I'll start looking for the best price for an engine steady now aswell then!
Drainage holes - pah!
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Tertius van Zyl
Posted on: April 21st, 2010, 10:32:06
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Clean garage! You guys must be kidding! Thought I would check this morning in case the fairies have visited! Still getting the "You can't come into my house with that white mess under your shoes" from u know who!
Good luck Graham on your build.

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Joost van Dien
Posted on: May 26th, 2010, 08:14:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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Drive it as much as possible!


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Nice build! You don't see a new build very often! Good luck with it!
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 8th, 2010, 19:24:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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I was up home at the weekend, and managed to get an afternoon in the garage.
First a look at the new bits which had arrived - new radius arms with bits, new rear brake back plate assemblies and new drums:

Also adjustable camber/castor rear brackets and some ally mounting brackets.
I got my 2.9 FD in the end - this should help with acceleration a bit (over the MPi's 2.7) and still be good for motorway work.  I'll just have to make sure I build a nice torquey engine to pull it   :

I took these bits up home while I was at it, having taken them apart/cleaned/rebuilt them:

And with the help of my nephews managed to get the engine/subframe out - is this a step forward or back   :

When I took the gear shift mech off I noticed this:

I take it the forks are meant to be parallel?
Final pic, as I've mentioned the car is going to have an MPi fitted.  In an attempt to extract as much as I can from it, I spent a couple of evenings cleaning up one of the inlet manifolds I have, in an attempt to improve flow.  Hopefully this picture will show just how rough the original casting is, and what I've managed to achieve to improve it:

Ideally I'd get it chromed (to further aid flow and to reflect heat), but that costs money and might be a step too far  .
The other thing I managed to do (it was a busy few days!) was visit East Coast Fibreglass Supplies and buy a few bits and pieces in order to let me do the repairs to the floorpan next time I'm up.  Can't recommend them highly enough - very knowledgable and helpful.  I'll certainly be putting my name down to attend their free fibreglassing courses when I'm able.
So - what do I do next (after the floor)?  Should I put the loom in and look at possible fixing points?  Do I leave it entering through the centre of the bulkhead?  Or fuel pipes next?  Any suggestions?
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admin
Posted on: June 8th, 2010, 23:15:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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Get the fuel line and front-to rear brake line in first (looks like you have done). Get the wipers and washers in while there's plenty of room to get to them. Fill in that hole in the bulkhead and take the loom through on the left. The wiring for the lights and indicators can go under the wings and into the dashboard area from each side.

Leave the wiring loom until you've got all the electrics on and have finalised the dashboard layout. The back section of the loom can go through the nearside sill and the double skin section behind the door. The front section you'll probably want to pull apart and lay out as required. Work out what relays you need and where you are going to mount them.

Fit up the heater and demisters before you do the dashboard so you don't end up with oil pressure pipes, choke cables, etc wanting to pass through the demister vents. You can then take the heater out to get to the bakc of the dashboard.

Consider fitting some heat sheilding material on the engine bulkhead behind where the manifold will go.

One thing is puzzling me - why hasn't the subframe got the bit of metal with the handbrake cable guide channels on it?

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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 10th, 2010, 20:28:49 Quote Report to Moderator
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Richard, I'm picking up some MPi fuel lines in the near future - hopefully they'll be pretty close (in length/fit), but even if they aren't I'll be able to use the connections for the fuel rail.
The shell has the (single) rear brake pipe fitted, which I'll have to revisit and resecure (IVA dictates clips no more than 12" apart for fuel & brake lines, I think).
I'll follow your advice regarding the wiper assembly, heater etc.
I'll have to have a look at the rear subframe on my mini to identify the handbrake brackets you're refering to  .




Then the electrickery  
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 19th, 2010, 21:01:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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Been away last week, so I've spent this evening in the garage trying to keep my hands busy and do something constructive, so I've built up the inlet manifold:

I'll be putting on the 52mm throttle body currently fitted to my mini, and the injectors will be cleaned or changed for larger ones, but thats another job done!
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: October 12th, 2010, 17:50:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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Well, having seen Lee's car on the road, I thought I'd better put in an update to show I am doing something  
Got some more bits through the post a little while ago:

The springs for the front are stiffer than those for the rear (as per last winters mag, I think).  I'll see how this handles - if it proves a bit soft it should be quite easy to change for harder springs, or perhaps fit a rear anti-roll bar.  I've heard good things about the Gaz shocks too.  These are standard height items - I'm not going for the lowered look.  There a lot of 'cliff-face' speed ramps down my street.  I don't want to pull the exhaust off every time I go over them!  I have started to build up the front subframe with these but one of the plastic cups hasn't seated properly (I might be getting a bit of hydrostatic lock effect from being a bit generous with the grease!) so I'll have to strip it down again, when I get my garage back!
I now know what was meant about grinding the GRP and all the white dust!  And I was only doing a very small area!  It took me a while to find a cheapish workbench which had a reasonable weight capacity but eventually got the shell raised:

Once safely up, I was able to prepare the edges of the trailor damaged holes.  The drivers side wasn't too bad so was repaired from underneath:

(This is before the repair)
The passenger side had gone through to the interior so I cut through and chamfered the edges prior to repairing from inside the car (no point in working against gravity!):

(This is mid repair)
You'll notice I haven't mentioned the loom hole in the bulkhead.  I thought I'd work out the best route for the electrics first.  Who knows - I don't intend to use that hole but........  I can always fill it in later.
I also cleaned up the fuel lines:

I was hoping to get these fitted this weekend, but after having a look at the shell and considering things over a cup of tea, I haven't got around to it yet.  I need to reposition the shell (safely) on the wood/workbenches in order to allow me to offer up the solid pipes prior to drilling holes and securing them.  I will have to cut the pipes at the rear because of the different shape of the MM to a mini shell.  (Lee (anyone?) did you use flexible pipe to join the fuel lines together?  Who supplied it, and any problems with IVA on this?).  I also need to find out how these pipes are secured to the shell - by this I mean, when viewed from underneath the retaining clips have a plastic, cross-headed screw head but I don't know what fits into the top of these (from inside the shell).  I can't see a screw thread in the plastic, but that would seem the obvious solution (if so, what is the thread?).  I did pull up the carpet quickly on the mpi but couldn't see the answer (too much tape in the way!).
I also need to come up with a solution to problem of fuelling the thing.  I found on the net a guy who has adapted a van tank to accept the mpi pump internally (horizontally mounted), but I'm not sure I want to cut up the new tank I've now got my hands on.  I realise a return will have to be put in, also a breather at the highest point (for the carbon canister) but there must be a relatively simple solution using an external in line fuel pump and filter.  Any ideas anyone, of a fuel system (Garry, Wil - any experience from the forced induction world?  They must need 3bar-ish of pressure to fuel them?)
So much for getting the shell out of my mothers garage - mine is bursting with boxes (extension still not built).  This could take some time..........
But I did get something put on - the wiper spindles:


Building at last  
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: October 12th, 2010, 20:12:02 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Nice bit of progress there.

Will be interesting to see how the coil springs work out.

Your wiper spindles look very flat to the body work, mine are more parallel to the windscreen.

 
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: October 12th, 2010, 21:31:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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I'm with Neil on the spindles, except don't you mean at 90 degrees to the windscreen? I've a single Metro wiper, again at 90 degrees to the screen. Do the spacer grommets need turning round a bit?

All my white dust, and the rest of the garage, is now a delicate shade of pale blue!
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admin
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Yes the wiper spindles should be leaning forwards but not as much as on the tin Mini, so the spacers need to be filed down a bit to reduce the angle.
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: October 13th, 2010, 08:08:15 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Thanks for that Peter, brain fuzz I'm afraid. I should have put 90deg.

As Richard has said you need to cut/file the spacers to get the angle right, it takes a bit of trial and error, so it's good if you have a few spare.

 
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Graham Bichard
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Totally agree with the spindle comments!  I thought that as soon as I uploaded the picture - it looks more obvious in the picture than when I was actually at the car (I fitted it a month or so ago).
However, I'm pretty sure I'll have to file out the holes in the bodywork, not just alter the spacers - the spindles are quite a snug fit in the holes if I remember correctly.  And I've got an idea about modifying the actual wiper arms too (not to get around this problem I should add!).

How does the saying go - one step forward..........  
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Lee Pashley
Posted on: October 13th, 2010, 18:24:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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I made up a new fuel line for mine, but only had 1 (carb engine) .Might be a bit tight to get the 3 fuel lines & the brake line up the chanel in the body.I fixed my fuel pipes with P clips held on with rivnuts into the body & hex drive bolts, they need to be fixed every 30 cm for the IVA.I used normal flexible fuel hose from my local motor factor(just made sure it marked as fuel hose ,for the IVA).For your fuel pump try a vauxhall artraGTE ,caviler SRI or nova GTE they had external fuel pump with filter & pressure reg , monted as one unit at the back of the car, might be a bit difficult to find one has most of them rusted away year s ago.
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Graham Bichard
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Right!  I got a couple of hours on the car this weekend and managed to get the car re-mounted on the workbenches, which has allowed me to offer up the fuel lines.

Lee, you're right - they won't fit in the channel in the floorpan.  But what it looks like I will be able to do is put them up against the bulkhead (as per the MPi, between the bulkhead and the steering rack (I'll have to watch for rubbing on the rack gaiter.  How will this affect IVA/reliability of the gaiter ) - it's handy having an MPi to compare/contrast) and then by mounting them at an angle, I'll be able to make use of the angled channel at the front of the rear subframe position.  This is about the position I'll have to rebend and cut the pipes and use reinforced, flexible piping to the pump/filter/tank.  I'll probably have to modify the pipe work where it ends at the bulkhead too - it looks to sit higher up the body crossmember (that the tower bolts mount to) than on the mini for some reason.  I'll put a picture up of all this when I'm next up home.
As for mounting the pipes (every 30cm maximum, as mentioned), I've got the MPi plastic mounts, which I'm looking to modify to take (zinc coated) nuts, bolts and penny washers.  But in order to try and ensure a water tight seal can I use a silicon (bathroom?) sealant - any suggestions?
And does anyone know where I can get a selection of olives from (not Tesco/asda/Morrisons  ) to sweat onto the end of the cut pipes?

Next question is about mounting the OSF (RHD!) damper upper mount.  The passenger side mount had been fitted by Acespeed.  On the 'inner wing' at the end of the bulkhead crossmember there is a horizontally mounted 2" by 1/2" plate bonded in, which has a threaded hole at each end (I'm hoping you can picture this, Lee, if not anyone else!).  What Acespeed has done is drill through one of these threaded holes and used that as a mounting hole (and then used this as the template for drilling the other three holes - does that make sense?).  Now I could do that for the drivers side, but is there any way of knowing that this is the correct position?  And is there likely to be much variation of the plate position in the 'inner wing' from left side to right?  Basically, how do I know that the upper damper mount if fitted in the correct place, and how do I get the other side in the same position - why didn't I just say that in the first place
While I think about the damper mount, Acespeed reinforced the lower screw positions with a small metal plate.  Seems sensible - there is only a relatively thin piece of (flexible) GRP there otherwise, so I'll look to do the same, but where do you get a sheet of steel from (didn't used to be a problem getting small offcuts when I used to get my hands dirty   but I've tryed Googling sheet metal suppliers/ metal workers etc etc but only seem to find scrap metal merchants or fancy garden gate manufacturers!

Lee, I think we must have different bowls for the headlights - both my inner wings will need cutting.  Did you say you used Rivnuts to hold these in or pop-rivets?

Last question (for now) - is it okay to use Acetone on the paintwork?  Where the fuel cap fits, Acespeed must've glued on a foam backing which has then partially come off when the caps been removed.  I want to clean this off before refitting another cap.

Phew - need a cup of tea now!  Oh, and aren't orange cars becoming common all of a sudden:
http://www.evo.co.uk/news/evonews/254020/hamilton_and_button_drive_new_mclaren_at_goodwood.html#
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: November 2nd, 2010, 14:59:34 Quote Report to Moderator
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And if anyone can find a 3"/75mm LED stop/tail and indicator light set, let me know!

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Stuart
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Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted November 2nd, 2010, 14:59:34 at here
And if anyone can find a 3"/75mm LED stop/tail and indicator light set, let me know!



That's a tricky one, we're close, guessing you will already have seen these

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/95mm-led-stop-tail-and-indicator-pair-rl40-3814-p.asp

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admin
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Also try
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/Led-rearlight.html
85mm, but getting closer.
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Stuart
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80 mm but not LED, alhough I think normal lights will be more in keeping with a Mini Marcos

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/hella-small-stoptail.html
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Stuart
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Quoted from admin, posted November 2nd, 2010, 23:13:24 at here
Also try
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/Led-rearlight.html
85mm, but getting closer.



But 140 mm dia

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Rodger Howard
Posted on: November 3rd, 2010, 08:42:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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Don't use acetone on paintwork, use prepsol.
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admin
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Quoted from Stuart, posted November 3rd, 2010, 08:41:07 at here


But 140 mm dia





True. There are some other possibilities here:
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/lights_rear.html
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Graham Bichard
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I should add, the reason I'm after 3" lights is, Acespeed had fitted the 70mm Land Rover type (ish) rounded lights ( http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/land-rover-lights.html - like these).  I had seen some 95mm LED type lights that I'd liked, but when putting a couple of 95mm discs on the rear panel centred on the holes as cut, they didn't look 'right' - it was possible to fit them in by re-centreing the holes (and there by not having to fill/respray the rear panel).
But when I stood back and looked at the panel, the position of the lights looked 'right' (that word again!), so I'm quite keen to retain the original hole positions if possible.
And while the lights don't have to be LED, I do like the look of these (along with the brightness, low power consumption and longevity) and want to have a flat lens look.  I've also looked at the possibility of fitting LED bulbs, but its the 3"/75mm bulb holder/lens which looks to be the problem.  (I'm now looking at Chinese/American websites advertising truck marker lights - you can get some good deals if you order a minimum of 200  )

ETA Rodger, where can I get ahold of Prepsol then?

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Stuart
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I'd not realised you wanted 3 seperate lights either side. If you could mount these so just the lens protrudes through the body with a seal around, you could even angle them so they are in a vertical position too.

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/U-Bright_inners.html
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Graham Bichard
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Stuart, that pic was for illustrative purposes only - this is the rear panel:

I'm after two lights per side - indicator and brake/tail.  You can see the fog / reverse lights fitted but I'll also need to position two reflectors, of course.
This is the Heritage demonstrator:

I like the flat, round LED look (I know Richard's not so keen...), so could reposition 95mm items to 'cover' the existing holes but they may look squashed.  Perhaps the answer is to use the existing round bulb holders for the traditional look, but with LED bulbs for that modern twist  .
Who'd have thought finding a suitable light cluster would be so hard - I've obviously got too much time on my hands  
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chris clarke
Posted on: November 4th, 2010, 23:07:44
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what about these they are 95mm,standard bulbs but i believe you can get them in led.Mine are wipac brought from kit car show a few years ago but at knebworth this year i brought some the same in durite packets,amber part no 0-768-18, stop/tail part no 0-768-18.hope this helps. sorry picture not too clear its a bit tight in the garage and did'nt want to put it out in rain

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chris clarke
Posted on: November 4th, 2010, 23:16:26
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heres a long distance shot

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Graham Bichard
Posted on: December 2nd, 2010, 19:35:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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More bits arrived:
Cinq rad

decieded on these rear lights (similar to the demonstrators), a bit bigger than I would like (95mm - I may have to fill and re-paint the rear panel):

They have a lip so I could bond them in to give a water tight seal, but the central light is removable and has a small circumfrencial (can't spell that!) gap which could let in water:

And this:

An SW5i with suitable (double) valve springs:

Didn't get anything done this last weekend when I was up home - this is going to take forever! What the longest recorded build?
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Graham Bichard
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The cylinder heads complete, assembled, chambers mearsured (23cc +- 0.1cc).  This takes care of the exhaust side:

From Specialist Components, stainless and going to be wrapped in exhaust heat wrap.  I've also got some ceramic/ali heat shielding from Zircotec, to be attached to the bulkhead/transmission tunnel (Zircoflex I think it's called).
I've stuck the MPi fuel lines stuck onto the bottom of the shell.  I can't use the channel moulded into the floorpan except at the incline at the rear, which is just forward of where I had to cut the pipes.

I've also been attacking the shell, putting holes into it:

Can anyone give any recommendations for pop rivets to use?  Or am I best off using small zinc coated nuts/bolts?  Lee - didn't you use Riv-nuts?
Oh, and sorry if these pictures turn out poorly - they were taken on the phone(!!!)

Last modified February 20th, 2011, 22:32:55 by Graham Bichard
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Neil KilBane
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Here is a photo of the pipes fitting

Smaller clips perhaps ?



 

Last modified February 20th, 2011, 23:26:41 by Neil KilBane
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Graham Bichard
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Neil, thats how I would mount them if I wasn't using the MPi lines (I'm still tempted to make my own up though  ) except there are three - supply, return and charcoal cannister.  I want to use the MPi lines if possible because they have the correct fitting for the fuel rail connections (plus I have them!).  When they're bolted to the floor they will pull up closer to the floorpan than in the picture - the tape was just to give me an idea of where they would sit.  In addition I can fit the pipe protector that the MPi's have where the pipes pass from the bulkhead to the floorpan, and by using the recess at the rear, they will be that little bit higher/protected.
One other thing - the pipes run between the bulkhead and steering rack and it's very tight ( the pipes contact the gaiter).  I'm not sure how IVA will view this - I take it this is the normal position for these pipes?

Last modified February 21st, 2011, 16:59:56 by Graham Bichard
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Neil KilBane
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Any point in extending one of  the pipes to have it fitting in the channel with the break line ?

 
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Graham Bichard
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Right, I decided to mount the fuel lines today - after all, its only a 6mm hole!  This is the result:

As thought, doing the nuts up pulled the pipes in tighter to the body.  And I've spaced the clips evenly at 10".  I thought about shortening the protruding part of the bolt, but chose to put an extra (nyloc) nut on instead thinking if it was to ground out this may at least give it some extra protection.  What do you think - is it still going to be too low?
I also offered up the Cinq radiator:

I placed it on both sides of the bulkhead (it could fit quite snuggly on the engine side) but I think this is the better option (there's pictures of other peoples fitments on here somewhere - I'l do a search), what I'm thinking now is, if I mount the rad as in the picture should I extend the cutout which was put in for the oil cooler, putting in a radius at both ends?

Would this weaken the panel noticeably?
ETA I must remember to take my camera next time I work on the car!

Last modified February 26th, 2011, 21:09:55 by Graham Bichard
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admin
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The fuel lines look a bit vulnerable. I'd be inclined to run them inside the car even if that means you have to glas over them.

Have you tried laying the radiator down over the hole at the front, whith the electric fan behind it? That will leave more room to get at the distributor, starter motor, oil filter, etc.
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 21:44:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello, as Admin suggests, leaning the radiator forward will give much better access and force more air through the radiator.



If you look where the front panel has been cut away, you'll see the dizzy and the starter motor would be very close to the panel. By leaning it forward, I was able to drop the engine in from the top. I just had to turn it through 45 degrees to slide it in. With the rad vertical, it wouldn't have been possible.
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Neil KilBane
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My radiator is parallel to the lower panel rather than vertical.

 
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Graham Bichard
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Glad to see everyone else is enjoying a thrilling Saturday night too!  
Richard, I was worried that the pipes would be vunerable too, but they've pulled up quite tight to the shell and I'm not lloking at lowering the car too much.  But I will see when the car's ever on its wheels, and may make up my own pipes to run through the channel in the floorpan, and use only the pipe ends (for the fuel rail connections).
Peter, Neil, I did place the rad against the inclined panel to see what the fit would be like.  It did look as if a fair bit of the rad would be shielded by the bodywork, hence my thinking the verticle position, on the front face of the bulkhead would be best (with a fan fitted to the front face) while opening up the cutout for maximum effectiveness, but I'm prepared to change my mind!  I'll dig out the Cinq rad thread and look at the pictures on that (probably your picture again Peter!) and have another fit up next time I'm up here.
While I'm thinking about it, does anyone have any overheating problems with an inclined Cinq rad?  Maybe I'm imagining problems which aren't there!
Oh, and I don't have a distributor to worry about Richard (only the coil pack)!  But the oil filter's a good point!

Last modified February 26th, 2011, 22:33:19 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
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Found it!
http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?b=GB,m=1284065290,s=all
Looks like against the inclined face is the way to go!
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admin
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Another advantage of leaning the rad forwards is that the air flow on the engine side is much better, particularly if you cut back the fibreglass as Peter has done. The Cinq rad may be too tall to lie down flat but you'll get plenty of air through it. You can put some fibreglass in  to stop the air leaking around the side. The front opening is going to shovel just as much air in whichever way the rad is fitted.
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Olly Lewis
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Also on the radiator front I TIGed up an aluminium number plate bracket which mounts just below the hole in the bottom front panel encouraging more air into/through the radiator and helping reduce the amount of air being directed under the car. This makes the number plate an aero aid!!!!

Although I feel that the amount of performence gain and cooling capability hasn't gone up much if at all!
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Graham Bichard
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Right, managed a frustrating couple of hours in the garage this morning.  Got the car on the floor again, so was able to get inside the car again to attack the wiper mech.
The conclusion I've come to is that the holes for the spindles are in the wrong place!  By this I mean, the holes would appear to be slightly to wide apart, given the length of the longer centre tube (covering the 'spring' drive from the motor).  This in itself isn't too much of a problem - I could enlarge the holes inwards slightly to accomodate this (it is only very slightly too narrow), but...
It's the flat metal pieces which clamp the tubes/spindles together which are interfering with the shape of the underside of the scuttle.  I've played around with spare wiper mech that I have (hasn't everyone got a spare one of these, or is it just me?  ), turning the plates the other way around but still they interfere.  So my conclusion is that the holes need to be further down the scuttle panel towards the bonnet.  As it is, the holes are about an inch away from the bonnet shut line:

I'm going to look at the gallery and see if theres a clear picture in there somewhere.
Then I decided to take the steering column off to give me more room to manouvre underneath - that took some doing, it obviously hasn't been off for a good while, but eventually it gave in and I couldn't resist quickly fitting the MPi one in:

I didn't notice it at the time, but in the picture the column looks quite noticeably offset to the left (more so than in a mini) - is this the norm?  In the picture the column isn't clamped up (to the dash rail mount), just positioned on the spline.  I don't fancy forcing the column over - won't that just stress the spline and increase the steering effort/wear?
I also offered up the MPi heater.  There'll be some slight fitting to that too, but it looks much more straight forward.
Finally, I had a further look at fitting the LHF upper damper mount.  Without a pin vice to hand I quickly worked up a blister before conceding that I'll have to remove the servo to get decent access to the area requiring drilling!  Oh well..... onward and upward!

On a plus note, I got the concrete base for my new shed laid yesterday.  Hopefully the shed'll be built by the time I'm next up here.  Then at long last I might be able to clear out the garage and use it as a place for work  

ETA Just had a thought - it's probably me being stupid!  Could it be that the clocks are offset right in the car (compared to a mini).  Guess I could try and mock up a seat position and see if its comfortable.

Last modified March 13th, 2011, 13:05:12 by Graham Bichard
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: March 13th, 2011, 19:26:15 Quote Report to Moderator
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You could shorten the middle tube and flare the ends with a brake pipe flare kit, the sort Frost sells. Or judicious use of a ball pein hammer....
Or make a new one with 10mm copper pipe,

Last modified March 13th, 2011, 19:27:18 by Peter Bremner
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Lee Pashley
Posted on: March 13th, 2011, 22:09:07 Quote Report to Moderator
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Fitting my wiper linkage was a right pig of a job .My wiper spindle boxes hit the front edge of the dash below the windsceen.I had to cut 2 slots in the front top edge of the dash to get the spindle boxes to fit . I then had to cover the top of the dash in black vinyl to hide the spindle boxes
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 14th, 2011, 08:08:51 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi Lee, that sounds like the exact problem I have!  I take it then, that the holes for the spindles are put in by Heritage?
The dash fabric has already been fitted to my car - looks like I might have to redo that!  And good idea about the longer tube Peter, that might prove useful.  Hopefully the spring drive would be long enough to accomodate it.
I did think if there was a similar mechanism with longer spindles I could mount them below the dash rail and they would still extend far enough for the wipers to mount.
I'll have another look today - I'm off this morning to remove the servo and drill the holes to ffit the damper mount.

Last modified March 14th, 2011, 08:11:27 by Graham Bichard
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Lee Pashley
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The holes was marked out buy heritage.The spindles look alot closer on mine than yours ,I had to shorten the center tube by quite a bit.I also had to file down the angled washers to get the nuts on.When I got the windscreen from heritage (10 days before the IVA ,nothing like cutting it fine) found the wiperarms where to short & blades to small.I ended up going around a scrapyard 2 day before the IVA test trying to find some longer wiper arms .I think I used some off a Rover P6 with 13 inch blades.
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Lee Pashley
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Allan Brown
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You might want to change the angle of the rubber washers around the spindle. As the windscreen is laid back a lot more in the Marcos compared to the Mini. This will increase the pressure of the wipers on the windscreen. The wheel boxes will then be flatter to the fibreglass hopefully giving more clearance of the dash.
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Peter Bremner
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That's why I used a Metro set-up with just one, central wiper. It still took a lot of setting up though  
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 24th, 2011, 20:57:40 Quote Report to Moderator
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Well, I was all set for a day on the car only to discover this morning, my tools had been nicked from the garage!!!
Angry doesn't come close  >
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admin
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Sorry to hear that Graham, I know the sickening feeling when you find out. I once had a toolbox stolen out of my Mini Van, but that was a long time ago. I didn't have a garage at the time.
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Simon Robinson
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Yo have my sympathies Graham. Had my flat robbed three years ago (I was at a charity event at the time) and it's a horrible feeling.

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Olly Lewis
Posted on: March 25th, 2011, 19:40:02 Quote Report to Moderator
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thieving b!£$%&ds

I had my garage broken into aswell two years ago, they stole my prized snap-on imperial ratcheting spanners, that were new and a blue point 1/4" drive socket set. Was at least £300's worth. Police man said nothing apart from "probably gypsies"!!!!!!!!

arseholes. I feel for you.

Your welcome to my tool set if your near me?

Olly
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 25th, 2011, 20:20:30 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Guys - if theres a silver lining to this cloud its the fact that the garage is SO messy at the minute.  When I went through it, I found my box of mini tools (hub/flywheel/ball joint sockets etc), and my torque wrenches were where they were left.  So not too bad really.  And I've got a new socket set out of it.  Oh and more locks on the garage!  When the shed eventually gets built I'll get that alarmed too!
So at least I've been able to do something today - put the RHF top damper mount on:

More phone pics I'm afraid (they're quite handy really )
I would've attacked the wiper mech but (guess what?) need to ask your collective opinion before I attack the fibreglass.
I need to take the dash top out, which means removing the windscreen - is there a special knack to this, or is it just a case of taking the filler strip out and push out (starting in a corner presumably)?  I've got the heated screen to go back in eventually (thanks Roger) but would like to keep this scren intact if possible.  And I'm resigned to the fact that I'll need to cut the material to get at the screws holding the dash top on  .
Anyway, I offered up the wiper mech to the holes in the scuttle with the wheel boxes either way round.  This looks the best way to me:

as opposed to this, which would require a lot more cutting I think:

Does this seem right?  I have found out that the early mini's had smaller wheel boxes - don't think I can wait to find some of them though!
And I did get another job finished today:

It's quite Heath Robinson, but it made us laugh today!

Last modified March 25th, 2011, 20:36:31 by Graham Bichard
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Peter Bremner
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Hello, no great knack to removing the screen. Mine was in and out like a fiddler's elbow! I just pull out the filler strip, spray some diluted washing up liquid around the edge. Then using a filler strip inserting tool I gently lift the rubber in one corner and push that corner from the inside. Once it starts to come out it's very quick and easy. I expect you can use a screwdriver, the insertion tool has rounder edges.
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admin
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I'd agree with that. The screen should pop out at one of the top corners first. Run a blunt knife round the screen on both sides to break the seal. Apply gentle pressure on the inside of the screen, but take it slowly and ease the screen out gently.

The small wheelboxes go with the wire-wound wiper motor which has a square section body. The larger boxes go with the permanent magnet motor which has a round body. There are versions with different numbers of teeth as well as different main gears for the motor unit so you may need do a bit of trial and error to get the sweep right. I lkie the single wiper idea using a Metro arm.
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jimnaylor
Posted on: March 26th, 2011, 18:03:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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The earlier wiper boxes were 22 tooth whereas the usual ones are 32 tooth, so the blades travel way further with a later wiper motor - definately the box to have with a single wiper - both use the same cable so no problems there. Mini Spares amongst others sell them but they are about twice the price of the usual ones. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=33220&title=
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 31st, 2011, 14:25:09 Quote Report to Moderator
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Nothing further to report (should get some time on the car next week), just an observation - when I did sit in the car last week, I sat centrally in the drivers seat 'channel', and the steering column is definitely sitting towards the centre of the car!
Doing a search shows some have used a UJ on the column - is this to overcome the offset problem?
Does the seat mount vertically on the right hand side, and horizontally on the left (i.e. attached to the top of the transmission tunnel) therefore positioned more to the centre of the car?
It just seems odd, thats all  
Lee did you have to cut the hole for the rack to poke through into the cabin?  It could've been cut in the wrong place I suppose (steering arms look to be equal on each side (not very scientific that though!).

Last modified March 31st, 2011, 14:28:03 by Graham Bichard
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Lee Pashley
Posted on: March 31st, 2011, 20:34:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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The holes were pre cut from heritage on mine.My steering wheel is off set to the center of the car too ,you soom get use to it ,I don"t even notice now.I looked at moving the coluum more to right but decided not to because I thought it better to leave the coluum standard for the IVA .
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admin
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Son't you need to have a collapsible column for the IVA? I thought you could use an energy-absorbing collapsible boss or a couple of UJs in the shaft. You don't need a UJ otherwise.

The front subframe mountings are slightly offset to one side (unless Rory has corrected the jigs, which I doubt) so you'll find that the track rod end adjustments are different each side or you have more lock one side than the other.

The seats should face straight ahead. The Mini steering column is always at a slight angle like that, but as Lee says you don't notice it after a bit. I don't understand what you mean by the seat mount. The seat runners just bolt onto the floor, but you might want to raise them a bit so that the runners slide over the carpet (if you're trimming the interior).
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 1st, 2011, 16:41:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Lee, Richard.  An offset wheel it is then.
Which does mean I won't have to woory about the seat (or my poor description of how I thought about mounting it  )
And I'm pretty certain that the collapsable element is integral (internal) to the column.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 4th, 2011, 07:44:06 Quote Report to Moderator
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Bit of a change of plan - got the frame built for my shed yesterday.  Now got 300m of shiplap board to creosote for the walls, so not much will get done on the car this week I fear!

I think my mother's dreaming of getting her garage back already  
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: April 4th, 2011, 07:50:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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How you gonna get the Marcos in? Or are you also fitting bi-folding doors to the lounge?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 4th, 2011, 14:10:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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What?  You mean it won't fit  
I'm just looking forward to sorting the garage out so it can be a useful working space again.
Actually, if I can keep the shed organised and set it up as a clean area, it may well become the engine build area (once the power's in, alarms on etc etc).
So much to do!
At least if it doesn't rain too hard, I can treat the timber undercover!
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 6th, 2011, 19:45:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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So - does this look about right?

I hope so 'cause its been a right pain in the backside to do!
However, one step forward, one step back....
See the stripped thread?

I moved the servo to fit the damper mount and when I took the nut off, the spring washer nearly launched the nut!  From the rust on the stud its been like that for a while.
Another picture of it:

Is the plate that has the studs (for the servo and reservoir) replaceable?  Or should I try and cut a smaller thread?  
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Allan Brown
Posted on: April 6th, 2011, 20:05:18 Quote Report to Moderator
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Those threads are welded to the pedal box.
I wouldn't cut a smaller thread, the last thing you want is for those threads to break or strip whilst breaking hard, you will lose all your brakes then.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 6th, 2011, 21:00:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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Ahh, that makes sense (never taken a pedal box out before).  So - new pedal box, or is drilling out and a (lock) nut and bolt an option Allan?
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Stuart
Posted on: April 7th, 2011, 07:25:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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You could get a new bolt/stud welded onto your pedal-box
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 1st, 2011, 20:51:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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Well, the sheds still not finished - deceided I couldn't wait any longer and rearranged the garage as best I could to at least get something done!
So started to build up the rear subframe:

I was going to put the radius arms on, but think it might be easier to mount the subframe as it is (lighter, yes?) and put the arms on later.  I can then build up the radius arms with the back plates on the bench too.
ETA  Whats the thread that will hold the rear adjustable brackets to the subframe - the vertical ones (screwed in form below) look around 3/8", the horizontal ones, smaller.  Also the plates which fit either end of the radius arm pin have a cannular set in them (offset on one), which goes on which end?
Richard, you mentioned earlier in this thread that you couldn't make out the handbrake cable bracket, yes?  By this are you referring to a small bracket on the underside of the subframe front crossbeam (sort of an elongated 'n' shape)?
As you can see, I've had the radius arms bearings reamed out.

Taking a leaf out of Stuart's book:
Quoted from Stuart, posted April 7th, 2011, 07:25:22 at here
You could get a new bolt/stud welded onto your pedal-box


I took off the pedal box - I've got some 8mm stud bar left over which should be suitable (there'll be a nice mix of metric & imperial by the end of the build) and I've been told of a fabricator not too far away who I'll have a chat with, but tonight's question is:  Should the plate which mounts on the engine side of the bulkhead (which has the brake actuating rod through it in this picture) be flat?  Mine is slightly bent on one corner (hope the picture shows this) and seems as if the two plates are pulling apart.

If it's meant to be like that I'll just clean it up ready for reassembly.


Last modified May 1st, 2011, 20:55:58 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 5th, 2011, 20:41:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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Didn't realise there was such a colour as 'McLaren Orange', but it does look bloody good!
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/g.....3163%3B310k#topicTop
Hope mine turns out that good  
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Gert-Jan Westerveld
Posted on: May 11th, 2011, 20:19:00 Quote Report to Moderator
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Looking good keep it up   Graham

Rebuild engine  1312CC  .    
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 12th, 2011, 19:36:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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Well, not to much to report, except that with the help of my nephews my mother now has her garage back:

And I've got a new job!  But it does mean long hours and a lot of travel so I'm not too sure how much time I'll have to get the build completed.  But at least now I can pop out of an evening, as and when!  But I did get half an hour in there this afternoon, and refitted the newly repaired pedal box:

Obviously I didn't degrease the plate properly  
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dalla
Posted on: June 13th, 2011, 00:10:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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Looks very nice sitting there in the garage. Iam jealous mate.

Mini Marcos Mk.II 7012
Dennis Overgaard Nielsen
Denmark
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 10th, 2011, 20:49:58 Quote Report to Moderator
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Couldn't work on my college  project so started building the rear subframe this afternoon:

I guess its an copy part, not an original because I had to do a fair bit of fitting to make things fit (opening up holes and the like).
Richard, I take it this is the bracket you mentioned earlier in the thread, for the handbrake cable?  Are they available seperately, or does anyone have an old subframe they've changed recently?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 11th, 2011, 19:12:05 Quote Report to Moderator
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I stripped one of the old rear hubs that I have, now that I've started on the rear subframe only to discover that its the old ball bearing type, as opposed to the taper roller bearing type that I'm more familiar with.
Am I okay to regrease and reuse these?  Would I be better off with the taper ball race?  Is the basic hub the same (I haven't taken the bearing outer race, only the inner and ball bearings), so that I could fit tapers?
Cheers!
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: July 19th, 2011, 08:34:46 Quote Report to Moderator
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Drive it as much as possible!


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Reuse old bearing is not my favourite, but if the balls are not coroded/ pitted/ cracked or oval and the bearing cage is in good condition you could give them a good clean and use them again. When I refurbished my rear hubs I also found ball bearings, I took them out and replaced them with the tapper type, no problem at all. The only thing is, when you push or glently hammer (with a drift) the race in position, make sure you don't hit the race with your drift. The edge of the race is quite thin.

cheers  

Last modified July 19th, 2011, 08:35:36 by Joost van Dien
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 21st, 2011, 20:24:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Joost - I take it they hub itself is the same?  And is the spacer the same for both types of bearings?
Well the new job may prevent me getting into the garage much but at least it allows me to pay for these:

Not quite the Imola S (or Pro as it is now) - the job doesn't pay that well!  They are Monaco Pro, very similar in dimension to the Imola (which was important) but with a steel frame, not composite.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 29th, 2011, 16:15:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Can I ask for some opinions here?
I was looking at the rear hubs with a view to building up with the new bearings that I've got and noticed this - the edge seems to have been 'fractured' off:

Looking at the edge itself, it doesn't actually appear to have been broken off:

Can I use these or not?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 30th, 2011, 16:07:37 Quote Report to Moderator
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Well, I knackered the vacuum motors on the flow bench so went into the garage.
I managed to (loosely) mount the wiper motor - I used an existing hole in the bulkhead.  When I've got things positioned I'll secure everything properly and put some silicon in the holes to water proof them.
I also offered up the heater unit:

Not remembering what Richard recommended was next I attempted to fit the headlight bowls.  The plastic bowls I've got have come with screws and securing clips (as opposed to the rivits I was expecting to use), but am I right in thinking I'll have to drill a hole for the adjuster screws to go through?  I tried to compare it with my MPi, but its' headlight bowl is a little different having motor height adjustment.  And is it only the chrome surround that holds the lens in place?  I seem to remember my old mini having some sort of spring arrangement.
And does it matter where the adjustment screws are positioned (as in at the 12 o-clock position)?

And would anyone out there use those rear hubs?
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Stuart
Posted on: August 30th, 2011, 18:36:17 Quote Report to Moderator
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I'd use those hubs. I also know someone who cuts off parts of the hub with an angle grinder to loose a bit of weight.
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: August 30th, 2011, 19:28:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello, on my headlamp bowls I had to drill two clearance holes for the adjuster for each bowl. They were positioned at 9 (or 3) o'clock and 12 o'clock. That way you can adjust for up and down as well as side to side.
The chrome rim around the lens had two tabs each with an angled slot and one tab with a hole. You slide the slotted tabs onto the adjusters (they have a effectively two heads 1 mm apart) and put a screw through the third tab.
Screwing the adjusters in an out moves the lens, they pivot about the retaining screw.
You'll have to squint but you can see the larger adjuster holes, both sides at 12 o'clock, offside 9 o'clock and nearside 3 o'clock



With my heater I made a lot of work for myself by swopping over the intake to the nearside. I also made up some diverters for the screen demister vents so that the plastic demister funnel laid flat against the top of the dashboard rather than poking down. It allowed the demister trunking to have a better run from the heater.

My hubs looked like that too
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 3rd, 2011, 14:36:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Stuart, Peter - I'll get the rear hubs built up then.
And get the bowls fitted.  As for the heater inlet, it's an MPi twin speed heater which has the inlet on the nearside already.  I haven't drilled the holes through the bulkhead yet (but theres lots of time for that yet!)

ETA Put the new wheel studs in and offered up the minifin drums (with inbuilt spacer).  Theres only 12mm of stud protruding which (from memory) seems less than the MPi.  Does 12mm seem right to you?

Last modified September 3rd, 2011, 20:17:42 by Graham Bichard
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admin
Posted on: September 3rd, 2011, 22:52:34 Quote Report to Moderator
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No, you need more than that. That drum looks a lot taller than normal. Those studs would be OK with normal Cooper S drums or standard Super Minifins.

Btw don't buy the cheap Chinese minifin replicas as they are inaccurately made. I had to return one pair because one of the stud holes was slightly out of position and the drum clamped tightly onto the backplate when the studs were tightened up.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 5th, 2011, 18:35:01 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Richard.  The drum are from minispares and seem quite good items so I'll look at getting longer studs if available.
I drilled the holes to fit the bowls yesterday.  Who on earth would paint a shell before sorting out all the drilling  .  I thougth I was being careful - masking tape, pilot hole etc but some paint still chipped off.  Oh well, I need to get some coloured gel coat for the scratches on the rear quarters, so will use some to fill in the chips eventually before fitting the bowls.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 7th, 2011, 11:58:14 Quote Report to Moderator
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Has anyone got any pictures of their cars fuel tanks in position?  Ideally with the rear subframe in position.

Ta
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 17th, 2011, 20:46:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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Bottom of the fuel tank:

How about this for a solution to the fuel starvation, and somewhere to take the fuel take off from:

No - not an orange juice carton, but if the tank were modified to have such a low point added:

Don't know if it would clear the subframe though - anyone got any pictures?
And I got the labelling machine out and started trying to identify the loom conections:

Notice I cleaned up the bulkhead hole - still unsure if I'll use it, but if I don't it doesn't really matter what shape hole I would have to fill!
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: September 18th, 2011, 07:28:47 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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That' going to be way too low.

I'm not at home now to take a photo of my car, but to give you an idea, the flange of the fueltank is lower in the car than the top of the rear subframe, if that makes sence.

 

Last modified September 18th, 2011, 07:29:45 by Neil KilBane
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Gert-Jan Westerveld
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I hope it helps.

Rebuild engine  1312CC  .    
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 18th, 2011, 16:30:26 Quote Report to Moderator
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Ah, now I see!  With having the car on the floor I haven't had a change to offer the tank up - it's obvious that it's to low now I see the pictures (thanks Gert, and Neil).
So it looks like I'll be trying to perhaps use this for the return:

and have a take off put in at the bottom of a vertical surface.  I'll have to look to see if there's room for a swirl pot to counter surge.
And I'll still need to have a breather from the filler to the charcoal cannister.
But we're getting there (and thanks all for the info!)
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jimnaylor
Posted on: September 18th, 2011, 19:18:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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You shouldn't need a take off at the bottom. The one in the photo should lead to a flexible pipe inside the tank with a ball weight at the end. That is standard and came with my tank, but perhaps not with yours. The inside of the standard tank should be baffled. With that set up I've never suffered problems with fuel surge when rallying. The standard tank doesn't have a return and doesn't need one.
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Stuart
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Quoted from jimnaylor, posted September 18th, 2011, 19:18:48 at here
The standard tank doesn't have a return and doesn't need one.



It does if you're fitting an MPI engine though  

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Neil KilBane
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Here is a link to an excellent page on modifying an estate tank to use with an Mpi engine.

http://www.stallard-engineering.co.uk/stories/Minis/modifying_the_fuelling.htm

Should have all you need to know.

 
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 20th, 2011, 16:26:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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Yes Jim, injection is being fitted so I need a feed and a return plus the breather for the charcoal cannister.
Neil, I made contact some time ago with Ian Stellard - his conversion of the van tank on his clubman is very impressive and he tells me hes had 8 years of reliable running withit too.  I decided I wanted to investigate other methods though, such as using an in-line fuel pump (as opposed to in tank), and ideally incorporate a swirl pot type of system to prevent surge (Ian suffers starvation when fuel gets a little low, in left handers).  Interesting to hear you don't suffer this, Jim.
Wil Ker (sometimes of this parish!) came up with an idea - make the depth of the 'box' less, say 20mm and make the hole from the tank into the box 50mm.  This would allow a reserve of fuel in the 'box' but limit the amount of surge that could occur.  I could then have a take off on the front edge of this shallow box, and use the original supply as the return (as in the picture above and the same as Ian Stellard did).
I'll try and mock something up this weekend and see what you all think - I'm consious now of the need for ground clearance!

ETA One other thing which I wasn't too keen on, on Ian's car car the need to fit the breather on the top of the tank.  This would mean having a hole in the boot floor, which I would then need cover and seal to comply with IVA.  I'm planning on having some sort of take off on the filler pipe running down the pipe/around the tank to join up with the MPi pipe running to the cannister.

Last modified September 20th, 2011, 16:29:46 by Graham Bichard
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jimnaylor
Posted on: September 20th, 2011, 17:39:10 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've certainly run it tight a few times, running out of fuel about 200m beyond the stage finish and half a mile from service once. But having a carb it does have some reserve capacity, I might not notice the occasional leaning out of the mixture. Also I run a fiter king which is above the carb so there could be some more reserve there. If you are going for an in line pump then although not a high pressure pump, I do run an electric pump mounted in the spare wheel well which is about half way up the tank. It's a problem to prime if I've emptied the tank, but no problem otherwise.

Is it possible to run the returns back into the filler neck? it would seem easier than modifying the tank.
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Graham Bichard
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Quoted from jimnaylor, posted September 20th, 2011, 17:39:10 at here
I've certainly run it tight a few times, running out of fuel about 200m beyond the stage finish and half a mile from service once.


Jim - Colin Chapman would approve!

I hadn't thought of running the return back into the filler.  This might prove a little tight space wise, I need to have the 'breather' at a high point (but as mentioned don't want to use the top of the tank).

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Graham Bichard
Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 13:18:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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Okay so it's agreed the rad will be sloping.  

I was trying not to drill and bolt through the front panel but it looks like I'll have to - I'll try and incorporate the front panel bolts with number plate mounts.
There doesn't appear to be a direction of indicated on the rad, so space dictates the longer 'inlet' will go to the bottom (slightly more space):

But, those of you who have used the Cinq rad, there are four plastic bosses which look as if they receive screws/bolts to mount the rad.  Did you use these?  What thread (if any) is in them?  Or are they scarificial, to receive a self tapper?
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Craig Smith
Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 16:21:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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It uses 3 self tappers



The one arrowed is for a bleed hose so needs to be at the top if you used it or blanked off if you choose not to.

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admin
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I don't think my rad is actually bolted in - it just sits there. Anyway you could bond a fibreglass flange onto the inside of the number plate panel and secure the rad to that.

What about the electric fan? You'll need one if you get stuck in traffic. Is there a space for an otter switch? It looks as though there might be one on the right hand side near the top in your pics.
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jimnaylor
Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 18:35:40 Quote Report to Moderator
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There was a previos post on mounting the cinquecento radiator with quite a bit of info.

http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?b=GB,m=1284065290
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Graham Bichard
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Thanks all - very useful!
I did think about bonding two wooden battens above/below the opening and screwing into that, but after looking at the MMOC Tech manual (and realising that I'll have to drill two holes for the number plate anyway) it seemed the neatest option to make brackets for the top/bottom if I could figure out a way of securing bracket to rad.
Jim, I had read that previous thread (I see I posted on it!) but must admit I'd forgotten about it  
Thanks for pointing out the bleed point Craig - I didn't there was a bleed incorporated into the rad.  Given that there is relatively little space in the I don't think I'll be using it though (because I'll have it mounted the other way up).
ETA Do any of you have a grill in front of the rad to protect the core?
Richard, I have a bi-directional fan.  That is, you can change the direction of the blades to suck/blow air over the core as required, so that'll sit engine side of the rad regardless of how I mount it.

Last modified October 1st, 2011, 19:02:01 by Graham Bichard
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Gert-Jan Westerveld
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Hello I have a (gril) to protekt the core.

hope you can use the picture.


Rebuild engine  1312CC  .    

Last modified October 1st, 2011, 20:35:03 by Gert-Jan Westerveld
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 21:47:11 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Have you seen this thread from 7 years ago !!!!

http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?b=GB,v=display,m=1098810117,s=all

 
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admin
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You don't need to drill holes in the number plate unless it's an old style ally one with plastic numbers and letters. Just use mounting tape. I stick one strip right along the top of the plate and four vertical strips down the sides and at the 1/3 and 2/3 points. That prevents any water getting trapped behind the plate.

You don't need to bother about the bleed point as long as the top pipe goes upwards from the rad. Any air will collect in the thermostat housing so you need the type with a take-off for the expansion tank or at least the one with the plastic plug on top so you can bleed it.
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David_Farmer
Posted on: October 4th, 2011, 21:24:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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My Marcos did have a protective grill, it is now binned as it was in a poor state. I was going to check out the ally panels that B&Q supply, as a replacement. You can see their
range on their website in:

Build -Building Materials -Materials -Metal Sheet Material -Aluminium Panel

Could be a possible solution..?

Last modified October 4th, 2011, 21:25:14 by David_Farmer
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Neil KilBane
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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I just used the mesh you get for building up fibreglass


 
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Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
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I received this through the post this week, from Dave Shreeve of the Mini Cooper Register:

Were these sew on badges produced by the club?  Dave's just move dhis 1800 on and found this when clearing out - it made me smile opening up the envelope  
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Neil KilBane
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Yes the Club still sells them, details of all parches, badges and decals that are available through the Club can be found at  http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/mmkit.html

 
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Graham Bichard
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Right decision time!  I've managed to get back in the garage, offered up the loom using that existing centre hole and taping the relays and the like in place (as per the MPi), and its now time to commit to drilling holes.
Now I don't really fancy stripping down the loom (electrics aren't really my thing!), and I'm not convinced there's enough 'slack' to route the the loom through one side if I don't, so it looks like I will be using this position.
So, how do I make this look neat:
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Neil KilBane
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Could you not run the loom the other side of the dash, fit the relays and stuff inside and them you only need to come through the bulkhead on the left and right for the wipers and the starter/lights/fan.

 
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admin
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I'd go along with Neil. It doesn't look like there's much room for the carbs and air filters if you have the loom coming through the middle of the bulkhead. If you bring the two branches of the loom through the top corners of the bulkhead you can tuck it under the bonnet gutter. You may need to add extra wiring e.g. for an electric radiator fan and you'll proabably find a few places where you need to extend the wires - certainly for the rear lights. The headlamps are set further back than on a Mini so you may need to re-route the wiring for those. You may also have to add earth wires for equipment mounted on the fibreglass that would normally earth through the shell e.g. starter solenoid if used.

When I've built or rewired cars I've stripped the loom down and reassembeld it as required. I use a Lucas fuse box that sits on the bulkhead with the terminals on the back, so the wiring is under the scuttle. I ran the wiring for the lights, horns, fan etc under the wings on each side. You could use the black spiral conduit which makes it easy to update the wiring when necessary.

Is that the brake line on the right next to the two fuel lines?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: December 4th, 2011, 20:31:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Neil, I like the idea of running the loom on the interior side of the bulkhead.  There is a bit of wiring in there already:

There's already relays on that side too, as well as the large fuse box etc.  And there still the alarm modules to go there as well.
Richard, there's a seperate rear section to the loom for the rear lights, rear demister, fuel pump and the like, which I haven't offered up yet (one stage at a time!) and I will need to extend the cable to the fan, the brake master cylinder and the like.  And I agree - it does look as if it'll be a bit tight:

I may have stumbled across another solution - when looking at the 'give' in the cabling, I pushed the two main cables up, sitting under the slight hood at the centre of the bonnet opening.  Now, while the 'hood' diminishes towards the outer edges of the engine compartment, it sat very comfortably in that position (above the chassis plate).  I'll mock it up and let you see it before I go drilling more bulkhead holes!

Last modified December 4th, 2011, 20:33:40 by Graham Bichard
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Olly Lewis
Posted on: December 5th, 2011, 13:05:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello All,

I see no reason as to why the loom can't come through into the engine compartment apart from making the bulkhead look less busy. And, the bulkhead has more clearance than usual around where an HIF carb would foul!?
Also, to make the loom follow a better path (inside or out) simply remove the insulation tape from the loom between the intersections and reposition in the desired path, then re-tape to form that shape. I'd also put rubber protected "P" clips to position the loom. If you have to lengthen some wires just cut and solder in the required amount and heat shrink the joint. Be careful not to put too much heat into the wire when soldering as this will make the copper become brittle and could crack over time. hope that helps

Olly
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: December 5th, 2011, 17:29:11 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Olly Lewis, posted December 5th, 2011, 13:05:50 at here
And, the bulkhead has more clearance than usual around where an HIF carb would foul!?



Judging by the fuse box and twin fuel lines I'd say it's going to be injection of some sort.


 
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Olly Lewis
Posted on: December 6th, 2011, 11:04:19 Quote Report to Moderator
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GOOD POINT NEIL  
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Graham Bichard
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Yep - should have added, there are three fuel pipes (feed, return and charcoal) on the passenger side, the rear brake pipe goes down the drivers side currently (and probably the battery cables eventually).  When I get back to the UK I´ll mock up the loom in the ´high´position to try and illustrate what I meant - a picture paints a thousand words and all that....
I´ve got no problem extending the wires where required, but really don´t fancy the idea of stripping the loom down.  Hopefully it won´t come to that.
It would make the bulkhead area look much better to run the front loom on the interior side of the bulkhead, especially as there is an engine loom to fit in the front too (and a small rear loom as well!), but the more I look at the MPi engine bay the more I realise Rover must´ve had a ´chuck it in´attitude too  

ETA the &#180 must be a peculiarity of a Norwegian keyboard!  Luckily the "Aass" beer tastes ok  
Oh, and I already have some P clips.

Last modified December 6th, 2011, 21:20:26 by Graham Bichard
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: December 8th, 2011, 21:42:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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As you know, I used the MPI loom as well. Mostly it fitted nicely, but I didn't have enough reach for the speedo. It's best not to look in the glovebox or under the dash either - I couldn't get the loom to look nice after I spliced it about!
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admin
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When I (re)wired my cars I connected the speedo unit via a 9-pin plug and socket so I can easily remove the whole thing if it needs attention. I used the two orange lamps for left and right indicators as I have a separate big oil pressure light on the dashboard.
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Graham Bichard
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Hi All! Happy New Year!
Just a quick up date.  I've spent the morning clearing out the shed and garage and made a bit of progress (I'll post a photo later), but I did come across a pair of the rubber gaskets that fit between the body and the headlight bowls on the mini.
Do you fit these to the MM too?

ETA Just realised my explanation wasn't too clear.  The bowls I have, have a thin rubber ring which fits around the outer edge of the bowl (on the body side of the bowl).  From the mini I have a thicker rubber ring which has extension pieces which push into/through the holes in the bodywork that the adjusting screws fit into.  Are these interchangable?  Supplimentry? Or is the thinner one just a cheap,modern interpritation of the thicker more substantial item?

Last modified January 8th, 2012, 13:43:48 by Graham Bichard
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admin
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Yes. Fit the proper wide gaskets for three reasons:
1. They protect the backs of the adjusting screws so they don't get encrusted with road dirt;
2. They take up any unevenness in the fibreglass;
3. They space the bowls off the fibreglass and protect the outer chrome trims.
This is more important with the steel bowls than with plastic ones but you might as well fit the gaskets you have.
The thin rubber rings are unlikely to do much good unles the holes in the fibreglass have been cut accurately.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 8th, 2012, 17:35:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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Yes, I definitely will use one of them - I agree with you the old style will probably be more robust (it was a thread on another site regarding the state of 'new' rubber components which got me thinking about these old style ones when I came across them). A picture paint a thousand words - the old ones have the adjuster screw covers:

Other things I've been doing:

It was looking for the handbrake pins for the radius arms that set me off sorting out the shed!  Did I find them.... not a chance!
And I decided that there'd been enough beating about the bush - and I'll copy the MPi (which failed its MOT yesterday, partly because of the new MOT rules) wiring, that is, whatever's inside the bulkhead will go inside the bulkhead, whatever's engine side will stay engine side.  Trying to make it look as neat as possible, this is the result (not finished of course):
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 10th, 2012, 21:03:54 Quote Report to Moderator
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It doesn't look too bad does it?

I made up some brackets for the relays and the cut-out switch.  Looking at the mini's bulkhead most of the MM's bulkhead is going to be fitted with brackets!
Right - engine loom next:

And I've got a new steering column bracket to get fabricated then with the column in place, I'll look at tidying up the under dash wiring and then the rear loom.  
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: January 11th, 2012, 20:42:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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What brakes are you using Graham? Just with only 600kg's I'd be tempted to bin the servo. I fitted Minisport 4 pots on 7.9" disks, and the the brakes are more powerful, and easier to modulate than my 7.5' S disc's ever were on my servo'd CE. Even my wife (who struggle in the CE) has said how much better/easier they are...

Looking V Good tho
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Graham Bichard
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So - who's idea was it to fit an injection motor?  

This is following the MPi cable cable runs.  I've also got the fuel/charcoal cannister connection cable tied in there (near side inner wing).
Now a request - could someone post a picture of the OSF inner wing position, like this:

I'm wondering if this is a viable position for the ecu:

To be honest, the ecu's so big I don't think there'll be much choice!
And before you start thinking how untidy that all is (and I'd have to agree), this is my guide:

Just as Rover intended  
So the question is, do I try and fix the engine loom in position, or just use cable ties for temporary fixing until after the engines in place?

Last modified January 11th, 2012, 20:48:58 by Graham Bichard
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: January 11th, 2012, 23:49:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello, cable ties, you may have to move the loom around to get the engine in for the dummy build.

Have you got a thumb missing?

And then fit an HIF44 SU....

Last modified January 11th, 2012, 23:50:34 by Peter Bremner
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Graham Bichard
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Matt, I've got metro 4 pot calipers and vented discs fitted on the subframe at the minute.  I have heard that this set up can lead to some interesting handling, but if that's the case when the cars on the road (Ha ha ha... is it Apr 1st all ready?) I've got a full 8.4 solid disc, twin pot set up waiting.
If it turns out the servo didn't work I'll consider ditching it, but I'd rather keep it for now.

I found out some intersting info from the guys on the mini cooper register forum, the engine loom was assembled onto the engine before the engine/subframe was offered up to the shell.  That makes sense, given that 'time is money' on a production line, so I'm going to give that a try, nearer the time.  What I will do in the engine bay is see if I can fabricate a bracket to hold the ecu in the osf inner wing position and permanently position the fuel/charcoal junction on the NSF inner wing.

Tonight I've had a go at tidying up the under dash wiring, mounting the fuse box at the right hand end of the lower dash rail.  It looks quite neat. I think it's compliant with the IVA (every time I look at it I interpret it differently  ) and I've laid out the rear section of the loom.
I now need to clean out the interior (I like things to be tidy - the missus says I've got OCD, everywhere but in the house!), put the rear loom in place, then I really will need to find something that I can lift the shell onto, about 12-18" high, just enough to get underneath to put things like the fuel tank in, be able to mount battery cables in, but not so high that it'll be too difficult to offer up the subframe.  Still looking for something suitable.
I may be visiting a place tomorrow with work, that'll be able to fabricate the steering column bracket.
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Craig Smith
Posted on: January 12th, 2012, 22:08:46 Quote Report to Moderator
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For what it's worth, I'm putting my ECU inside the car.  

Granted I am fitting a completely different engine, and Nissan mounted the ECU under the dash in the Micra but I can't help thinking that keeping it out of the engine bay is a very sensible idea?
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Matthew Payne
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Quoted from Craig Smith, posted January 12th, 2012, 22:08:46 at here
For what it's worth, I'm putting my ECU inside the car.  




I agree - but wouldn't fancy re-wiring the MPI loom to extend it that far!
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 15th, 2012, 20:36:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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You're absolutely right Matthew - I don't really fancy cutting and splicing to extend that pair of cables!
I haven't had electric since last night, so have been limited in what I've been able to do:

Fuse box with cover on.  I'll get around to modifying this one day to cover the exposed bit.

Rad grill cut to size and placed in.  This needs to be secured, but for now is just sitting in front of the rad.
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Graham Bichard
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Quoted from Peter Bremner, posted January 11th, 2012, 23:49:21 at here

And then fit an HIF44 SU....



Peter - that's sooo 20th centuary  

Tonight I've fitted the charcoal cannister:

Tucked up nice and high in the NSF wheel arch.
And mounted up the emissions kit in the engine bay:


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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 19th, 2012, 21:27:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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Deja vu?

It's a little higher than I'd like, but it'll let me mount the tank (which now needs modifying).  And it puts the rear panel at a better height for working on:

Offering up the chosen lights, although offset from the original holes, it looks like I'll be able to incorporate the existing holes (saving me from having to fill and redrill the panel):

I've got some research to do before cutting - I'm sure the brake lights need to be at least 10cm (from memory) from th efog light, which dictates the tail/brake lights will be in the upper position (I could move the brake/reverse lights but they're in quite a good position).
I'll be asking for your thoughts on cutting the holes (painted surface, offset hole to be incorporated, only a 76mm hole saw - need a 93mm hole etc) when I'm sure of the distances required  

ETA Quick question for Lee Pashley if he still passes this way!  Lee, didn't you say you'd placed your radio aerial in the sill?  Have you a picture of where/how big the hole is?  Did you run the rear loom through the sill too?  Did you use conduit?  If anyone else has any ideas, feel free to air them!
Didn't I read on here someone (sorry can't remember who) had filled the sill box sections with foam?  I've heard of this on race and rally cars back in the day when the shells used to wobble about, and wouldn't mind doing something similar on this (as well as perhaps adding a little strength/stiffness, it may provide a little sound insulation too).  What type of foam should be used for this?

Last modified January 19th, 2012, 21:35:32 by Graham Bichard
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: January 19th, 2012, 22:08:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Evening Graham

Just spotted this on Turbo Minis. About half way down the page it a picture of of a swirl pot on the underside of his Sabre Sprint - Might fit under the Marcos too?

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=358245&fr=50
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Peter Bremner
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Hello, I used flexible electrical conduit from ScrewFix. I put a length in both sills, starting from inside the dash, down the A pillars and out just in front of the rear subframe mounts. Don't forget to put a length of rope through them to pull the cables through (I also pulled through another length of rope just in case).
I filled my sills with two pack foam, the sort you get from any glass fibre supplier. Make sure all the holes are taped over or you end up in a right mess. I also foamed up inside the A pillar at the same time. I made tubes of cardboard to protect the hinge stud area and filled through a hole in the top of the sill. Once I had poured, I quickly covered that hole with tape.
Good luck!
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If you have an automatic radio aerial the best place to fit it is on the rear ofside haunch behind the rear side window, with the bottom of the unit bolted to the back of the rear wheel arch. The cable can go through the sill. I said offside because it's further from the electrical fuel pump if ou have one.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 20th, 2012, 22:02:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Richard, I'm not looking to install an automatic aerial, and I'm trying to limit the number of holes I have to drill.
I was thinking about something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-.....327094679&sr=8-1
but mounted in the sill (Lee reckoned it worked quite well in that location).
But I don't want it rattling around, hence the conduit/foam questions (Thanks Peter - was it your thread I'd read?  I'll look into that next time I'm over at east coast fibreglass suppies).
I am right in thinking the sills are an enclosed box section, yes?

Not the best of pics, granted, but I can safely drill a hole in the front and rear, yes?
ETA I've checked and it is 100mm between stop lights and fog light.  I'll get the rear panel masked up and marked up.

Last modified January 20th, 2012, 22:04:11 by Graham Bichard
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Posted on: January 21st, 2012, 17:35:37 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've had a 'rubber duck' aerial in the past - it was fitted to the Mini Jem. I wasn't impressed by its performance. You'd be better off with a telescopic aerial. It's one hole whatever you do.
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Graham Bichard
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Cheers Richard - I'll bear that in mind.
Matt - I've been in contact with Wil last year to discuss his fuel system set up.  He sent me that picture along with the electrical diagram of his system.  And I'm pretty sure it was Wil who suggested the solution I'm looking at adopting.  The swirl pot would be replaced by a shallow version of my fruit carton.  A small hole in the base of the tank:

I did think of putting a hole at the lowest point, but this may lead to an air gap occuring, so the other marker is an alternative position.  This would then be covered by a shallow pan:

It would of course be a better fit than my missus' cooking tray!  This in turn would have a feed to the fuel pump (with an in line filter before because of the position of the take off):

The original feed will then be the return.
I did think that offsetting the 'swirl pot' may offer a little more protection:

Do you think it'd work?
Tonights work has consited of:



Looking back at the Heritage demonstrator, I think these may be the same.  Not that that's a problem - its the look I was after  
Tomorrow is a tidy up and hoover of the garage.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 22nd, 2012, 12:51:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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After a quick clean up (hoover only - there's still orange/white dust covering everything!) I carried on, this time measuring up and fitting the number plate light:

It's a nice small unit with four LEDs, the outer two angled.  Measuring this up showed the variation of a hand made shell - the position which 'looked right' being a few mm different from the measured centre.  In the end I split the difference and I'm happy with the result.  I used an old number plate while measuring - this is the result:

I offered up the tank - I'll put a penny washer or fibre washer betweent he shell and the tank or else it looks as though it'll dig into the fibreglass:

This is the fuel cap I've chosen:

It's obviously smaller than the one which was offered up before (different pcd).  I had intended to manufacture a carbon fronted panel, cut out a circle and bond this into the recess, into which the fuel cap would be secured (a bit like the repair piece in John Dickems book (Pg 89) hides heat damage), but when I looked closer there is a crack apparent which extends beyound the recess lip.  Not sure if it'll be visible in this next photo (at the six o'clock position, extending from the hole):

What are the options for sorting that out?
Finally this morning I offered up the rear subframe front mount:

I was a little surprised that there appeared to be no reinforcement plate in the fibreglass at this point (don't know why, but I expected there to be one).  I presume there'll be no harm in making up a plate to go on the interior side of the bolts?  And I'll need longer bolts - mini items are obviously not the ones to use (looking down into the interior bins):

And can someone confirm the sills are box section?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 27th, 2012, 20:39:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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The fuel pump arrived through the post:

The protective sleeve is on now, and it looks good in the mount.
And now what should be a major milestone, but....
I offered up the rear subframe tonight.  But when it comes to fitting it properly, how the hell are you meant to tighten up the front trunnion pin/nut?

I notice the previous owner has made a small modification in order to ease fitment, but this has removed the gelcoat as well.  Another patch to touch up.
The other side seems to have a bit more space:

I know the rubber bushes have pulled out slightly - some washing up liquid will sort that.  But like I say, how do I tighten up the trunnion nuts (when I put them on!)?
Should they be tightened up before hand (won't that make lining them up difficult?)?
The rear trunnions weren't exactly easy to fit either, so I didn't tighten too much:


Again, I think when tightened up things will line up okay, but with the evidence of the front along with the rear I'd say the whole thing is slightly to one side (using the search button, this doesn't seem uncommon).
So, I know it roughly fits - the question is, how do I get it to fit properly (nuts tightened!)?
Oh, and I was able to confirm the tank will fitwith the subframe on - or at least it would if it wasn't for the rear left trunnion!

At least it will when I file the corner of the tank (rewelding if needed)!
Answers on a post card please  
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 28th, 2012, 11:53:20 Quote Report to Moderator
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Whats the general consensus on positioning the windscreen washer bottle?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 19th, 2012, 12:47:33 Quote Report to Moderator
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Spoke to Rory at Heritage the other day.  Apparently the way to mount up the rear subframe is to tighten the front trunnions in place, then offer up the subframe - if any subsequent alignment adjustment is required it's a case of drilling the hole in the outer body to allow fitting of the pin spanner, this then being fitted with a grommet afterwards.
I'd rather not have to drill the bodywork if possible (don't know if there are any pictures of Lee's (Pashley's) car showing if he had to do that?).
Hopefully I'll have a steering column bracket back next week (just in time for me to go away with work for a month!), and I've 'notched' the corner of the fuel tank to allow fitment of that with the subframe in place.
Guess I'd best get in the garage this afternoon and try and make best use of my time then  

Last modified February 19th, 2012, 17:11:26 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 19th, 2012, 17:07:07 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hmm... so, rear subframe, front trunnions tightened, subframe reinserted.  Next the rear mounts:


This is the rear left position.  The hole must be about 8mm out (too far forward for both).  The rear right isn't as far out, but still isn't lined up.
So the correct way of solving this, is to countersink the holes, fill with fibreglass and redrill, yes?  
If so, its subframe out again.

ETA Don't know if you can make it out in that first position, drilling the hole in a new 'correct' position will put it very close to the edge of the flat section onto which the subframe mounts.
Also should there be some sort of 'gasket' between the subframe trunnion mounts and the shell (I'm thinking of something like a thin layer of rubber sheet, to prevent fretting)?  Or is the rubber bushes sufficient to prevent this?
I wonder if this is why the car was sat for so long at Acespeed with no rear subframe fitted?

Last modified February 19th, 2012, 17:12:29 by Graham Bichard
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: February 19th, 2012, 17:55:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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Graham - Is the subframe you are using new? I'd be worried about re-drilling holes if there is even the slightest chance that it could actually be the frame and not the car!

I realise you have just tightened everything, then re-fitted it all... But how about loosening the rears off to get the trunnion bolts through, then re-tighten?

Nice DSN lightweight trunnions BTW
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 20th, 2012, 20:47:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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Matthew the subframe is a new, pattern part.  I did try and line everything up loosely fitted, as it were (the only bolts done up are the trunnion ones). (Perhaps I ought to try some string trigonometry on it)
I think I could get the rear right fitted, but I don't think I'd get the rear left anywhere near.
I don't really want to re-drill the holes but am thnking if I force the bolts into position and tighten them up it will put excessive pressure into the fibreglass.  Not sure what to do to be honest.
Yeah, the DSN stuff is pretty impressive - I only have the trunnions at present, but am sure I'll be getting some more of their products when money allows (I don't think they make an MPi engine steady yet though).
Anyway, ideas on a postcard, as they say!

Last modified February 20th, 2012, 20:48:40 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:25:55 Quote Report to Moderator
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Right, so lying under the car with the inspection light I finally discovered another use for the 'bent' end of a scriber.  It turns out that the upper edge of the LHS trunninon block wasn't sitting flush with the heel board.  So off came the subframe and yes, you can see where the top has been digging into the fibreglass:

Hopefully this shows up in these pictures - they were taken with the phone camera (the dog chewed the proper camera cable!)
So then I looked at the other side:

Hmm...
Out with the ruler, LHS lined up with the top centre of the lower hole it measures approximately 17mm until the ruler contacts the inside of the side panel:

RHS same position measures approximately 27mm:

Now looking directly under the 'sill level', the holes on the RHS is obviously inboard of the sill.  On the LHS the hole are further towards the outer edge of the car (does that make sense written down?).
This will obviously affect how far out the wheels will stick, but more importantly will this effect the subframe alignment?
The black coating on the heelboard only appears to be a mil or so thick, but does provide a nice clear face for the trunnion block to sit against.
So what are my options?  What do I do?

Last modified February 23rd, 2012, 21:27:36 by Graham Bichard
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Lee Pashley
Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:27:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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Graham . I had to inlongate the rear mouting hole by a few mm , but they were not has far out has your looks ! I also had take the corner off the tank to miss the trunnion. probably  not much help to you !
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:37:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hiya Lee - I trust the cars running well?
Good to hear I'm not the first to encounter these problems!
Can I ask, did you drill the holes for the rear subframe or did Heritage put them in?
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Lee Pashley
Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:58:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cars in daily use & running well . Heritage drilled all the holes for the rear sub frame & by looks of it got it a bit closer to were they shouid be on mine
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 12th, 2012, 20:39:46 Quote Report to Moderator
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So,  a little grinding, a little advise (from a certain Mr Dickens - thanks John!) and realisation that my wheels will stick out one side more than the other and:

Tonight I tried to fit the radius arm to the 'easy' side (right, with more space) and.... not a chance.
Well, I could struggle and probably get it in place, but I wouldn't be able to grease them up!  So, it looks like I'll definitely need to drill holes in the bodywork (which will also make it easier to fit the radius arm in the first place too).
How's best to do this?  I know some of the older mark's of MM have this - is there a standard size to drill (corresponding with a suitable cover/grommet)?  And seeing as how the cars painted is there a best way of doing this?  And how do I repair the gelcoat afterwards?
(You really would have thought the original owner would've done a dry build and discovered all of this prior to painting, wouldn't you?)
I did manage to get the new steering column bracket fabricated:

I'll cut it down to size when I offer up the column and get it fully welded up:

My drill's at the ready, waiting for your collective wisdom!

Last modified May 12th, 2012, 20:40:38 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 20th, 2012, 18:31:44 Quote Report to Moderator
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Forgot to show last time, I made up some spreader plates for the subframe bolts:


Today I managed to get the radius arms fitted (I now hat ethat job!).  With the subframe being offset left, it was neccessary to take a small part of the 'sill' away on the left hand side:


The worst bit is knowing I'll need to take this all apart again to reinforce these areas and repair the gelcoat/paint.

When fitting the shock I noticed the body of the shock was contacting the raius arm.  I think I've read about this in one of the magazines and I'm sure they ground away the area of the arm that was in contact.  I'll try and dig the mag out.

The right rear was the same, except that on that side the top of the shock couldn't fit in the hole through the body - hopefully it will when fitted correctly onto the radius arm.
Finally, got the steering column offered up.  Again this'll have to come apart again for final welding when everything been connected and tested.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 31st, 2012, 17:28:11 Quote Report to Moderator
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Right, so I've got next week off and I'm hoping to get some time in the garage.  I'm planning to try and do some bodywork and something occured to me.  But first some pictures:

This was neccessary to get the dampers to clear the radius arm:

Although I've got Gaz units, in Keeping Your Mini Alive 5 they had to do something similar for Spax units.
For the RHR unit, although I've got it fitting, the hole for the top nut isn't aligned above the radius arm.  I guess this is another example of a hand made shell idiosyncricies, but am I okay to elongate this top hole to align the damper correctly?  Is there a risk that the hole could be made too big (long)?

But I couldn't resist fitting a wheel on temporarily:

For the bodywork, I've drilled the holes for the grease nipple access.  To stop water damage the cut 'edges' of the GRP will need to be sealed.  Do I just use the resin for this, or orange gelcoat, or a combination of both to do this?
And all the other holes I've drilled (for the front damper mounting, for example) - I've used a silicon sealent when fitting the items.  Should I be taking these off again,clean them up and seal the edges of these holes?
So much to do, so little time (and next week isn't even here yet!).
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Richard Porter
Posted on: June 1st, 2012, 09:32:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted May 31st, 2012, 17:28:11 at here
I guess this is another example of a hand made shell idiosyncricies, but am I okay to elongate this top hole to align the damper correctly? Is there a risk that the hole could be made too big (long)?

For the bodywork, I've drilled the holes for the grease nipple access. To stop water damage the cut 'edges' of the GRP will need to be sealed. Do I just use the resin for this, or orange gelcoat, or a combination of both to do this?
And all the other holes I've drilled (for the front damper mounting, for example) - I've used a silicon sealent when fitting the items. Should I be taking these off again,clean them up and seal the edges of these holes?



I'd be a bit wary about elongating the hole. I'd prefer to fill it in and glass over the area on both sides, then drill a new hole where needed. Some shocks have offset studs at the top so you don't need to do this.

As for sealing holes I suspect that normally nothing special is done. There's no point in using gelcoat or gelcoat filler. Resin A should be fine but let it cure before you put the bolts in otherwise you might have difficulty getting them out. Silicone sealant doesn't stick very well to gelcoat, but anything that keeps the water out is better than nothing - mastic or heavy grease would do.

Last modified June 1st, 2012, 09:36:00 by Richard Porter
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 7th, 2012, 19:56:39 Quote Report to Moderator
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Sorry for the delay in replying Richard - my internet has been down, but I'll follow your advice and leave those items alone, that I've already sealed with silicon sealant.  Today I've coated the edges of the holes I created for the grease nipple access with resin as I've put a couple of layers of CSM in those areas that needed it.
I should now be in a position to torque up the rear subframe bolts.  When I spoke to John (Dickens) on the phone he informed me that it is important to align the front/rear subframe to ensure the car doesn't crab and drives nicely.  How do I ensure the rear subframe is 'square', before tightening it all down when the front subbie isn't fitted?
I also need to get back onto the electrics.  The car came with a (lower part of) battery box fitted centrally in the rear.  Now this is a good position for weight distribution and (IVA permitting - I need to confirm that) I'd ;like to keep this arrangement for this reason.  But it will require a sealed battery box, somethig like this:
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/BATTERIES-Battery-Box/c110_127/index.html
Do you reckon this (and the associated battery) would be suitable?  Are there any suggestions for an alternative?  What rating of battery is recommended?  (I've got a hefty, heavy duty battery in the mini, but it's also a good old size, filling the battery box in the boot)
Hopefully I'll get a bit more time in the garage tomorrow to get a bit more done  

Last modified June 7th, 2012, 19:58:01 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 8th, 2012, 11:21:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've cleaned up the fuel filler hole this morning.  The cracking is worse than I thought around the securing holes, so I followed John's advice and placed a couple of layers of CSM across the back of this area to stiffen it.  My GRP work is probably best described as, err, workmanlike!  More practise needed I think (although I hope not to get more practise, if you see what I mean!):

I opened up the hole to accept the filler.  From this I can see that I need to fill in the holes (countersink and resin in individual fibres yes?) and I'll probably fill in the 'lip' thats been created to provide a bit more rigidity too:

I'll need the gelcoat soon as well to make the best of this job.
ETA I realise that the cracks don't show up as well now I've seen the photos large scale, but would I now just treat these as cracks in the gel coat?

Last modified June 8th, 2012, 11:24:02 by Graham Bichard
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jimnaylor
Posted on: June 8th, 2012, 11:49:19 Quote Report to Moderator
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There is an older thread on batteries that might answer your questions.

http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/c.....3,highlight=mx5#num3
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 11th, 2012, 20:08:02 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks Jim - I'll look to see if they can supply a battery box for that and (once confirmed it would be IVA compliant) will look at getting one of them!
With a mixture of measuring and viewing, I've got two wheels on my wagon now:

Strut and spring in place:


Last modified June 11th, 2012, 20:10:40 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 25th, 2012, 20:32:30 Quote Report to Moderator
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He he....  I don't remember putting any holes there:
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 28th, 2012, 20:21:49 Quote Report to Moderator
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Got a couple of hours in the garage this week.
The handbrake cable route solution (as suggested by John):

Got a couple of bungs the correct size, so fitted them (and can cross another small job off the list):

This is the solution I have for part of the fuel tank problems - supply outlet fitted:


I'll run a filter directly after this (i.e. before the pump) and it doesn'tt protrude to low either:

My youngest helper got ahold of the camera while I was underneath the car - turns out the picture he took makes the car look quite shiney  
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 4th, 2012, 16:53:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hope this picture comes out!  I'm proposing to put the fuel pump here:

Is this going to be too exposed?  What could I use to shield it?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 16th, 2012, 19:44:34 Quote Report to Moderator
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Steering column correctly fitted now, heater refitted.  Does anyone have any pictures of where the heater pipes go through the bulkhead?  Comparing with the mini, the heater pipes would protrude directly where the chassis plate is.
Ordered another few bits too.



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admin
Posted on: August 17th, 2012, 09:43:46
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Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted August 16th, 2012, 19:44:34 at here
Does anyone have any pictures of where the heater pipes go through the bulkhead?  Comparing with the mini, the heater pipes would protrude directly where the chassis plate is.



Put the hose through where it's convenient. This is mine - nearside:

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admin
Posted on: August 17th, 2012, 09:44:19
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and offside:

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Neil KilBane
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Matthew Payne
Posted on: August 17th, 2012, 19:49:30 Quote Report to Moderator
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Wheels and catches look ace. I really like the 'black on orange' look.

Heater pipes... Don't bother, they're a pain to fill! Seriously though, I fitted a heater originally, but have just removed it, as it was always a little too hot! After 5-10 minutes of driving, the heat-soak is enough that its nice and warm!
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Stuart
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Quoted from Matthew Payne, posted August 17th, 2012, 19:49:30 at here
I fitted a heater originally, but have just removed it, as it was always a little too hot! After 5-10 minutes of driving, the heat-soak is enough that its nice and warm!



Remind me not to get a lift anywhere with you in the middle of winter, brrrrr

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admin
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How about fitting a heater control valve?
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Matthew Payne
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I think I might leave it in the shed over winter :-p

Control valve didn't seem to make much difference. I suspect that the pipe route wasn't exactly clever, so hot water was probably going the opposite way to what I was expecting... Too late to worry about it now!
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Peter Bremner
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I then fitted a floating water valve behind the heater. The two spouts are to bleed the pipes. I made my own head outlet from a blanking plate and a 90 degree 15mm copper pipe fitting
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Mirek Ko
Posted on: August 21st, 2012, 09:02:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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Perfect work
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Graham Bichard
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Thanks for the pictures guys.  I'm back to work now, so work once again progress slows.  It'll give me a chance to save up for a set of MPI silicon hoses (£145+  )
Glad the orange and black scheme appeals - I hope it'll look as good as I think it will.
And I found out yesterday that you can't get the female part of the plug for the rear lights!  Guess I'll be constructing something from my selection of female terminals then  

Last modified August 21st, 2012, 19:18:05 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 23rd, 2012, 15:17:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Well I've got the rear lights connected:

Once tested I'll tidy this up.
I also fitted the switch panel:

I'm not sure how to wire the power socket in - googling does produce answer, I just don't understand them too well!
I might have found a solution to padding the lower dash rail too:

Pipe insulation.  I need to try and find black though.
This is my solution to the fuel tank (to charcoal cannister) problem.  I'll just have to be careful not to fill the tank too full:

The fuel system has proven a bit of a nightmare to plumb ib - nothing hard just awkward.  I'll put a picture up when finished.
For heat control I've put some Zircotec sheeting on the bulkhead:

I'll put more of this lower down and along the exhaust tunnel, perhaps around the silencer box also.  With thermal wrap on the manifold hopefully that will control cabin temperatures.
Also (don't laugh), my first attempts at gel coat repairs:


There was four of five places I attempted to repair, luckily most of them unseen areas.
I've got a functioning hand brake now too!  With luck it'll be on (two) wheels soon, and I'll be able to wheel it in and out a bit easier to create space in the garage  

Last modified September 23rd, 2012, 15:55:53 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: October 13th, 2012, 13:06:02 Quote Report to Moderator
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Right, so long as it doesn't leak, I've got the fuel lines plumbed in.
12mm braided line from the tank to the filter (red thing in the picture).  12mm line to the Sytec fuel pump inlet, followed by 8mm braided line to the solid fuel line:

The return line is 8mm braided stepping down to 6mm connected to the tank (using the original supply position as the return).  The breather (from the tank neck) to the solid line which goes to the charcoal canniter is brake line connected each end with rubber fuel injection hose.  All hoses are connected to either the shell or the fuel pump mount with no more than 12" between fixings.  This will hopefully satisfy the IVA man when the time comes.  The one area I have a slight concern about is where the braided line (from the tank to the filter) squeezes between the shell and the rear subframe.  If they deciede this is unacceptable I'll have a real headache finding another route for it.  Oh well, we'll have to see.
Looking forward you can see I've lined the 'transmission' tunnel with Zircoflex too:

I'm getting ahead of myself, but looking at it from underneath it does make me wonder how/where I'm going to be able to mount the exhaust.
Having done this I've lowered the car back onto two wheels and had a tidy up of the garage.  I did think after I'd started this perhaps I should've run in the battery cables front to rear in the channel provided, but too late - the cars down now.
While I think about this, whats the norm for gathering all the earths together, for connecting to the battery neg?  There are quite a few for the rear lights, I'v got a note to earth the tank too, there are a good amount emerging from under the dash and there'll be some from the engine bay too.  That's a lot of wire's to identify and find a way back to the rear of the car!  (Of course I just love electrics so am looking forward to this particular challenge   )
This is the space I have at the rear of the garage now I've moved things around:


The MPi engine is under the dust blue sheet, but does this look like a big enough area to strip and build the engine (not something I've ever done before in it's entirety)?  I'll need to tidy the bench obviously - strange how things seem to gather there  .

Last modified October 13th, 2012, 13:06:52 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: November 19th, 2012, 20:50:55 Quote Report to Moderator
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Got the free form headlights fitted:

This picture doesn't show it too well, but they look really good - a nice clean design.
I've also received the silicon bottom hose (Only £65 from China in the end), a new header tank and some odds and sod.
I've decided to run the electric cables (from/to the battery) through the interior so am working on that at the minute.
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Graham Bichard
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Okay - so others have been making me feel guilty with some of the good progress they've been making so with the weather being milder today I got out into the garage for a couple of hours.
Now I had been deliberating over front indicators but when I bought something from CBS recently they were advertising a combined DRL and LED indicator units.  I like the thought of DRL's (they do help new cars be noticed) so thought I'd give them a try.  This is the result:

Hmm - not sure I like them at all!  When I bought them I did ask if they'd take them back if they weren't to my liking.  If they were more... orange, or perhaps a smoked chrome effect  .
As all the options I've seen seem to be an 85mm fitting and 95mm in overall diameter I continued to offer one up:

Seen like that it doesn't look quite as offensive.  Do they work with the free-form headlights?  Or are they just too much 'bling'?
So, what the general consensus - honest opinions only!

ETA - you can also just see where I've taped the electric cables together, to run the length of the body.  These'll be going through the interior I think, entering the engine compartment in the vicinity of the bulkhead somewhere.

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admin
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I think they'll look alright. You won't normally see the indicators from such a low angle.

I was tempted to do something like this on my "other" Mini Marcos ...



but I've stuck to putting the indicators on the outside and using the original indicator panels for the heater air intake on the right and electric horn on the left.
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Graham Bichard
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The sun's out, temperature is in the +ve.
Anything to get out of doing the electrics I offered the engine up to the subframe.  I needed to grind bavk a bit of the seam welding around the engine mounts but in the end it slid in:


Is there an easy way to fit the pot joints into the diff housing?
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Stuart
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Is there a C-clip on that output shaft?
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Neil KilBane
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Give it a smack with a Soft mallet on the end of the drive shaft.

The C clip gives it resistance to a point but then it just slips into place.

 
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Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted April 1st, 2013, 12:30:53 at here
Is there an easy way to fit the pot joints into the diff housing?




Just whack them with a rubber mallet. Once you get the circlip into the pot joint it should go quite easily.
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Graham Bichard
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A big (rubber) hammer it is then!
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Graham Bichard
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Okay, so the shell is ready to be lifted onto the engine/subframe but hows best to do that?
What I mean is, while I have two big strong nephews who can help me out I don't want them to end up with the bad back I'm suffering from at the minute.
Is there a way I could lift the shell with an engine hoist (for example. I have one of those!) which would make the task easier?
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Peter Bremner
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Hello, I'm being picky, everything else looks so good, are you going to give the lump a lick of paint and an alloy rocker cover?
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Matthew Payne
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Graham... You haven't got windows or trim in... Just get them to grab a wheel arch each and it'll be fine. Popped mine over with my dads help just a fortnight ago. The only thing that makes it easier is being taller (which Im not).

Your car is looking good BTW!
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Matthew Payne
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Oh, just realised that I cant see if the back wheels are on?
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Graham Bichard
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Peter, I'm after fitting the engine/subframe so that I can work out where the coolant hoses and electric cables will go through the bulkhead. I don't want to 'guess' incorrectly.  I'll be looking to rebuild the engine prior to final fitment, but as the body will have to come off again I was wondering if there was an easy way, ideally one which I could do by myself.
Matthew - yes there are back wheels fitted so I guess I'll do as you say, get my nephews to give me a hand lifting it over.

(This is all a big diversion to stop me thinking about doing the electrics anymore by the way!  Not that I think I'm fooling anyone (except myself(   )
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Peter Bremner
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Hello, my lump was in and out like a yo-yo, I always dropped mine in from the top, but, most of the front panel had been cut away.

Wiring: take your time, use a simple continuity tester or a voltmeter, use crimped Lucar terminals and bullets (I also soldered mine) and relays for heavy duty stuff. I also included in my loom extra wires to the coil (in case I fitted a rev limiter) and also to the rear (in case of extra lights). I fitted a bolt to one of the dash supports to act as a central earth and then took a big fat lead to the engine and one to the battery earth.

Once you've sussed that the indicator warning light earths through the other bulbs and that the horn is permanently live and earths through the horn push you'll be well away...  

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jimnaylor
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You can easily lift the front of the car with a hoist, it weighs next to nothing without the engine, or if you have a decent sized jack and it's a rod change, you can jack it up from the floor just behind the front bulkhead (spread the load with a bit of wood). The car goes up at an alarming angle but its high enough to get the subframe in and quite stable. I've done it both ways, either is a one man job, and you can control the body as it comes down, just in case something is in the wrong place.
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Grant Wilson
Posted on: May 9th, 2013, 16:01:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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I raise my car on large lumps of wood  placed before the rear wheels.  I place 2 old wheels with more wood under the back of the car .

I have made a strap that lifts from the top and spreads the weight between engine steady,steering rack and  the front lip of the engine bay...I then lift it with engine crane with ease.

it rocks on the wood infront of wheels then weight moves to rear of car....not had a problem doing it this way and it has been in and out ( and shaken all about) several times.

good luck

Grant.
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Graham Bichard
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Why won't it fit!!!
Okay - two strong helpers and it wasn't to bad, but the subframe holes wouldn't line up.
I have a theory and some photo's to help but would like your thoughts before I progress.

The subbie was about 1/2 or 3/4" too far forward.  There appeared to be clearance between the subbie and the bulkhead:

This picture was taken looking behind the front left wheel and attempts to show the clearance (not too clear I appreachiate).

I did wonder if the injection fuel lines were holding it proud, but there was sufficient movement in the pipes to convince me this wasn't the case.  There was scuff marks on the subframe when we removed it again to show where we'd moved them about:

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Photobucket playing up:




(Marks from fuel lines being wiggled)
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 20th, 2013, 19:09:14 Quote Report to Moderator
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Steering rack looks tight:

Rack seems to dig into the subframe:

Scratches on subbie from rack bolt:
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Graham Bichard
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We tried presenting the subframe at a few angles but this seems to be the culprit:

So before I remove the rack and offer thing up again any thoughts?
I did manage to get an idea of the wheel protrusion with the metro vented disc set up:

Last modified May 20th, 2013, 19:13:37 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
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And how about this - I needed a steering wheel but the MPi column has a different spline set up from previous minis.  But MPi wheels are very expensive on ebay but a little research turned up the MGf wheel which os very similar but crucially has the same spline pattern.  A complete column cost £45, about half what a used MPi wheel costs.  So I get a spare set of stalks to and (look closely) an electric power assist system:

I don't intend to use this but it's nice to know it's a possible option (I'll be so old when I get this finished I might need it!)  
So, any ideas welcome before I attack the steering rack?
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MPlayle
Posted on: May 21st, 2013, 01:59:39 Quote Report to Moderator
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The steering box end is supposed to fit into that opening below the scruff marks.  Try loosening the rack mounts and rotating the box down slightly (raising the angle of the column).

Leave the rack a little loose when offering up the subframe to allow rotating the rack a bit to get the steering box to drop into that opening.  only tighten the rack once the column is installed so that you don't get angular stress on the splines.  Such issues are common on Minis when folks install the steering drop brackets.
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Craig Smith
Posted on: May 21st, 2013, 21:53:15 Quote Report to Moderator
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That power steering column is far smaller than the Corsa "B" one I got for mine; looks likes it's time for plan B (again)..!
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Graham Bichard
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Craig - let me know if you need any more pics or dimension (and won't this make it Plan 'C'?  )
Your own car needs a thread!  It might give me ideas/solutions!
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Stuart
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Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted May 23rd, 2013, 10:11:05 at here

Your own car needs a thread!  It might give me ideas/solutions!



It has one, I've somehow missed recent posts http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/c.....=39,highlight=#num39
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 1st, 2013, 16:44:55 Quote Report to Moderator
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Rack loosened off.  Engine now in:

Subframe obviously must be offset to the drivers side:


I'll look to fit some kind of flared arch, perhaps slimmer on the passenger side to balance up the aesthetics.  Has anyone else suffered this?  What did you do to overcome it?  I could fit my wintertyres (135 section) for the IVA  .
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Graham Bichard
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I tightened the rack back up and fitted the wheel so I could steer the car (moving the car out of the garage so I could have a tidy up).  Hopefully this picture will illustrate what I meant by the column being offset to the left:

The clock binnacle seems to be directly in front when you sit central to the drivers side but you can see how the wheel rim covers the rev counter.
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Graham Bichard
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I'll put the heater pipes through the bulkhead underneath the chassis plate.  There's space on the other side and it lines up quite well with the heater:

I've also offered up the engine harness, working out where all the connections go:

Who's idea was it to use the MPi as a base  
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Graham Bichard
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Placing the inlet manifold and throttle body in position shows how much less space there is on the MM compared with the mini bodyshell:

I do have a problem with the fuel lines:

There is some lateral movement but I don't know if physically (permanently) bending them will frcture them.

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Graham Bichard
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I'll need to find some way of securing the engine relay to the bulkhead too.  It can't fit in the same position as on the mini (where it sits atop the servo):

The main problem at the moment is that the gearbox must be engaged in a gear, as I can't push the car backward/forward.  Is there an easy way of checking this/getting neutral?
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: June 1st, 2013, 20:39:40 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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You can manipulate the gear selector with a screwdriver from the back of the gear box, push it through the hole for the roll pin and push/twist the selector to engage neutral.

 
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Lee Pashley
Posted on: June 2nd, 2013, 20:58:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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Graham ,don"t think you can use a air bag for theIVA so you may have to find another steering wheel.
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Graham Bichard
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Lee - your right, I can't use an airbag wheel.  I am looking eventually to use a nice aftermarket wheel, but as you can't have spoked wheels either (with holes in the spokes) I didn't want to spend a frtune yet.  I discovered a thread (on turbominis I think) where someone had used the airbag as a template to create a mould for a fibreglass copy.  I have some carbon fibre sheet somewhere in the shed I'll look to do something similar.
I will need to use the rotary coupling as this controls the horn also.  I'm not sure if I'll need to use the airbag harness - this'll be a pain if I do, but I've heard that funny things can happy with the ECU if not all the sensors are registered.
I did think about using a LandRover Discovery wheel - no airbag, bigger diameter (so there is a bigger exclusion zone behind the wheel for IVA) and I'm told uses the same spline set up, but I couldn't find absolute confirmation of this (no surprise really).
Neil, I'll have a look at the engine/gearbox in the garage and have a play at engaging/disengaging the box before climbing under the car tomorrow night.  It'd be good to get the car out into the sunlight  
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Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
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Four wheels and a steering wheel - does it count as a car yet?  Or just a mobile home for one of the engines!
Wheeling it out puts its size in context - barely above the waist line of our Honda.

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Matthew Payne
Posted on: June 6th, 2013, 19:48:18 Quote Report to Moderator
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I made a centre for my MPI steering wheel with foam and fabric... Simple!

[img][/img]
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Graham Bichard
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Matthew, it might have been your efforts I saw on another forum?

I've got this earth strap for the fuel tank:

With trying to limit the number of holes I put in the shell I wondering if I could attach this underneath the screww head of one of the tank holding screws:

If I ensure this screw/washer/nut doesn't get rusty would this be acceptable?
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Brian
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The other bolts should be fine, but what are you grounding the tank to? The rear subframe should be fine...

As for the bolts, don't depend on the bolts to conduct, just use them to force the brass lug to contact an unpainted spot on whatever you're trying to connect from/to...
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 17th, 2013, 19:46:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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Right, I've got this week off work, have serviced the mini so had a chance to get in the garage this afternoon.
The fuel tank earth:

I've also fitted the connections to the main electrical cables (battery end) to match the Extreme 30 battery:

I've gathered the earths together (this picture is of the LHR side, there's a similar bunch on the RHR).  I'm still not clear in my mind how I get these to the battery negative neatly (and safely!):

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Other things done:
A lovely DSN MPi engine steady:

The mounting holes required for this are slightly different to a 'normal' mini so I had to drill a copule of more holes for this:

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Graham Bichard
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Also:
Fuel pump and sender wired in:

I still need to find somewhere to mount the engine relay:

This mounts on the top of the servo bracket on the mini, obviously not an option with the lower bonnet line.
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Graham Bichard
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This is the engine bay with the engine harness in place:

And this is how I left it this evening (complete with rear Revolutions fitted this time):


Hopefully we'll get a bit more done tomorrow.
One question I do have, I've offered up the (front) subframe rear mounts and the gap is different to the gap with the original subframe (original as in fitted to the car when I bought it).  Has anyone had to put spacers on these?  Or modify (bend) the subframe ears to ensure a good fit?  I'll try and get a picture tomorrow.
ETA - Do I need to earth the rear subframe seperately?  I think so but am not sure  

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Graham Bichard
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This is the drivers side rear subframe mount:

And the passenger side:

None of the holes line up.  How do I rectify this?
And do you think this would work for the main electric cables?  The red (+ve) through the bulkhead to the starter motor, the black (-ve) attached to a bolt going through thte bulkhead attaching the dash side earths inside, the engine bay earth on the engine bay side?  The cables would be under carpet of course (I can't (easily) run the cables under the car - the two channels are used by the fuel pipes and brake pipe):

There's been a fair bit of this today:

Last modified July 18th, 2013, 12:58:00 by Graham Bichard
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A couple of other little jobs done.
Door switches fitted:

DSN engine block steady offered up:


If I could get the subframe rear mounts fitted, I'd be tempted to get the engine ready to fire up.  Any ideas how to solve that problem?
And when I was looking down on the subframe I noticed it looks as if it isn't fitted squarely:

How much play is there in the turret bolts normally?

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Brian
Posted on: July 18th, 2013, 20:20:07 Quote Report to Moderator
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While the battery cables are surely well shielded, in the off chance of a collision, I wouldn't want something cutting that insulation and causing a shower so close to me. If you won't have a passenger seat, maybe run them there, or possibly even better yet, run one up each side?

Also, I believe there's a channel under the car designed for those cables. I know there is in the mk6, and it looks like I can see the upper side of that channel on the floor pan of your car; is there a reason not to use that?
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Brian
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For your earlier question re: grounding circuits, I personally prefer to use a busbar for the grounds. It makes it far easier to add a device or two. In our (non mini) race car, we used to ground instruments via a screw through the car's body with a bunch of lugs on it. One time, we needed to add a device in a hurry, during a pit stop. We ended up with someone holding a wrench in the front bay, and another person turning a screw in the driver's compartment, to get that screw out, and add to the lug. A bus bar keeps all the individual wires separate and clean for maintenance and troubleshooting. I feel it's easier to get a solid ground, too.
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The channels on the floor pan are for the brake line and fuel line. The usual path for the battery cables is through the sill on the left hand side for right hand drive, so the battery is at the left rear. I'd take the earth cable through the bulkhead to terminate on the engine e.g. using one of the thermostat cover studs. Then I connect earthing cables from the electrics at the front of the car to the engine block on each side. At the back the lights, fuel tank and pump (if fitted)  can be earthed directly to the battery terminal.

That just leaves the stuff in the middle for which I run a wire from the engine end of the battery earth cable. In actual fact the Marcos is slightly different because I have a bolt through the crossmember with the battery cable terminating on the inside of the car, and then a strap from the engine side to the engine. The equipment can connect to the appropriate side of this bolt.

I have thought about using a bus bar because I happen to have one from a telephone exchange but I didn't see how it would be fitted. It's got short wires coming out at regular intervals on one side for connecting things to.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 20th, 2013, 20:21:35 Quote Report to Moderator
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Brian, my car is a Mk6 - chassis number 3.  As Richard says there is a channel either side underneath and while the fuel (injection) lines don't follow the left hand side exactly, they do fill the channel fully in the area of the rear subframe heel board.
The right hand channel has the rear brake line in it.
I think I'll explore your suggestion of perhaps running a cable down each side.
Richard - do you have  any experience with the front subframe rear mounts?

While I've been looking at the wiring should I have a seperate switch for the front heated screen given the current it may draw?  Or could I run them both throught he one switch (I currently have a four switch panel fitted)?

Another little job done today is position the seats and drill the subframe holes (cue lots of Brmm Brmm noises and funny looks from my eldest):



The good news is there's enough headroom with these seats and plenty of fore/aft adjustment even for the missus' stumpy legs   . And they do look good.
They're back out now, and I don't know when I'll get any more time in the garage for a while.  I've enjoyed this week working on the car - if I can get these electrics sorted I get the feeling it could be the downhill stretch (only another three years to go then!).

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Brian
Posted on: July 22nd, 2013, 15:41:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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For the heated screen switches...are you running a relay? For the larger draw items such as heaters, headlamps, etc, it will be better to run a relay. For the screens, some suggest a timed relay which will automatically turn off after 10 or so minutes.

I was unable to find the power draw for the window heaters. But the seat heaters I plan to use (in lieu of a standard heater) take 10 amps (well, a 10 amp fuse, so probably 8ish amps) . The switches seem to usually have ratings in the neighborhood of 10 amps, too, so it should be fine. I still just plan to power a relay with the switch, though. It will be far easier to swap a burnt relay module from the fuse box than to take the dash apart to fix a switch. And, it means a much smaller gauge of wire that I need to pull into the dash (at least for rear screen).
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Simon Robinson
Posted on: July 22nd, 2013, 20:16:01 Quote Report to Moderator
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I'd certainly say you need a relay for the rear screen at least - it draws around 15-20A and a timer relay helps if you forget to switch it off!

Be careful with the heated front screens, they only use a low current and can easily burn out a few wires, which then adds more load to the others...

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Brian
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Simon, I didn't follow your comment re: the front screen. I presume you were suggesting that some of the individual heating element wires can burn out...it doesn't seem that there would be much to do to do to prevent this...?
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Brian
Posted on: July 23rd, 2013, 01:36:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from admin, posted July 20th, 2013, 16:12:14 at here
The channels on the floor pan are for the brake line and fuel line. The usual path for the battery cables is through the sill on the left hand side for right hand drive, so the battery is at the left rear. I'd take the earth cable through the bulkhead to terminate on the engine e.g. using one of the thermostat cover studs. Then I connect earthing cables from the electrics at the front of the car to the engine block on each side. At the back the lights, fuel tank and pump (if fitted)  can be earthed directly to the battery terminal.



I had been thinking of this: "The battery cable, taken from the donor vehicle, should be fitted into the channel moulded into the passenger side of the car and secured every 30-40 cm." from the build manual.

According to the manual, you do the driver's side channel for brake+fuel, and the passenger side one for power. However, in his case, if going with the 3 fuel pipes for a SPi/MPi, then I guess that takes some extra space...
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Brian
Posted on: July 23rd, 2013, 01:40:07 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from admin, posted July 20th, 2013, 16:12:14 at here

I have thought about using a bus bar because I happen to have one from a telephone exchange but I didn't see how it would be fitted. It's got short wires coming out at regular intervals on one side for connecting things to.



The bus bar I was talking about were equivalent of the terminal blocks here:


http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/connectors/connectors.php

They have various sizes depending on amperages. But a small one like that makes it far easier to add and remove grounds for things such as lights, gauges, etc without having to gang them up on a single post.

I would stick one of these in the dash, one in the back area near the tail lights, probably one in the engine bay (though those items can also ground to the subframe), and in my case, I may have a fair bit of electronic stuff, with seat heaters, etc, in the cab, so one additional one behind the driver's seat if I can find a good place for it.

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Simon Robinson
Posted on: July 23rd, 2013, 05:44:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Brian - I'm not sure what can be done either, just thought it best to let you know as quite a bit of my heated screen no longer works!

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Brian
Posted on: July 23rd, 2013, 07:37:10 Quote Report to Moderator
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Ah, fair enough. I'll ask around here for advice. (dad is an electrician). Will note it in the forums here if I get any input.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 4th, 2013, 16:33:43 Quote Report to Moderator
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Latest progress - I've split the live and earth cables:

I've also tried to tuck the loom up under the LH door.  This would only work if a carpet can be made to sit correctly.
While I had the car out in the sun I did notice the rather large gap between the door and the door glass:

I take it there's a solution to this?  (Modify the mini door rubber?)
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 4th, 2013, 16:40:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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The next step is to drill through the bulkhead to get the earth to the engine compartment.  I had thought using a coach bolt type screw (i.e. shallow rounded head to sit flush to the floor) at the lower 'red dot' position:

From offering up the seats, this would be pretty clear of the passengers seat and clear of the subframe/fuel pipes/exhaust etc on the other side.  It would also be convenient for running the earths down from behind the dash.  Any thoughts on this solution?

Last modified August 4th, 2013, 16:40:50 by Graham Bichard
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: August 5th, 2013, 21:21:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello, how about a length of studding? A washer on each side against the glassfibre, then a nut and spring washer each side done up tight, then you will have an earth post on either side. Demon Tweeks etc do a proper (expensive!) bulkhead connector which amounts to the same thing.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 6th, 2013, 11:59:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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I like your thinking Peter, and I have some 8mm stud too!
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 8th, 2013, 19:09:37 Quote Report to Moderator
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Okay - so I've made a little progress.  I've put a stud on the passenger side for the neg's, and one on the drivers side to take the pos through to the engine compartment.  (I thought I had a pic but discover I haven't).
I have managed to sort out the front subframe, rear mounts though:

When I say sorted - the moving of the car in and out of the garage plus jacking it up to put on the ramp stands must've settled things down because, with only a little elongating of the mount holes the subframe mounts were pretty close.  Happy days!  (You might notice all the nut are plain nuts.  I'll replace these with nylocs after the strip down and final build).
I've also fitted the starter motor.  Am I correct in thinking this is what I want to be putting the direct battery feed to?  (I really need to re-read John's electric book).
Is there a prefered position/method of earthing the engine and subframe - what do you attach the cable to for best effect?

This is the view I'm using for comparison:

Last modified September 8th, 2013, 19:11:23 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 22nd, 2013, 12:10:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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Did a little bit of sorting of the Rat's Nest wiring, comparing the mini with the MM loom yesterday.  Also got around to making up the cable from the bulkhead to the starter motor.
Simon - have you got a wiring diagram of how you wired in your heated front screen (I think you might have posted something previously but I haven't been able to find it)?  Where did you take the low current supply from?  If you've had elements burn out is there another supply you'd recommend trying?
Brian, heated seats!  Luxury  
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Brian
Posted on: September 22nd, 2013, 15:33:19 Quote Report to Moderator
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The low current supply will want a switch on the dash. I'd run a wire from the back of the ignition to toggle switch to relay. That way it turns off with the car.
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Brian
Posted on: September 22nd, 2013, 18:35:30 Quote Report to Moderator
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I was thinking about this more. The "low current" thing is something tough to control electrically.

You'll still want to use a relay to power it. Operate the relay with a wire from ignition to a toggle on the dash, then to the low power input on the relay.

For the bigger wire out of the relay, you do input to the relay from a big wire, possibly the battery cable. Fuse it between the battery wire and the relay. As for limiting current, that's a bit tougher, but the best you'll do is to limit the voltage to it. There are a few ways I can think of, ranging in cost and complexity.
* Many older cars used smaller wire than should be used, to cause a voltage drop over the length of the wire. For example, this is how the ignition switches in older cars worked, allowing it to get the needed 6 volts at the coil.
* If "correct" wire sizes were used for ignition instead, then a ballast resistor is needed. Similar could probably be done for the heater element. I suspect dropping the voltage to 10-12 (versus the 13-16 normally experienced when running) will help some. We'd need to know how many amps the screen draws, then pick a resistor that will drop the voltage sufficiently for that current.
* Not practical, but a 12 volt regulated power supply could be used. I use one of these http://www.opussolutions.com/shop/50/Sub_ATX_DC_DC_Power_Supplies/0.html for some radio gear in my race car that wants cleaner 12v. They take in 8 to 40 volts, and put out a clean 12 volts. But I assume the front window heater will take more than 6-10Amps.
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Simon Robinson
Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 05:48:15 Quote Report to Moderator
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Graham - here's the wiring diagram I used. Unfortunately, I didn't use a low current supply for the front screen, which is why the elements burned out! I was hoping that using a 1A fuse would mean there wasn't too much current flowing, evidently it's still too much.

The timer relay I used is this one, it's variable and you can set it to various modes, including one (called mode 3 on the website) which uses a standard toggle switch and resets when you switch it off:

http://www.circuitsolutionsonline.com/cso1-multi-function-relay.html

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Simon Robinson
Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 05:54:33
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Photo didn't upload for some reason, trying again...

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.

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Brian
Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 16:10:04 Quote Report to Moderator
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1a and even the 8a limit on those relays seems quite low for the heaters. Is there a chance you've slow blown the fuse?
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Simon Robinson
Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 16:53:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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The elements on the screen went gradually, at first only a few were broken and eventually it spread to the rest (as they were drawing more current I suppose) - I tried using a 100 ohm resistor in series to reduce the voltage (before the faults occurred) but then it didn't work at all...

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Craig Smith
Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 17:24:06 Quote Report to Moderator
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This heated screen topic is something that is quite interesting to me..  Could somebody provide the resistance of the screens as supplied?  From that figure we can work out the nominal current draw at 12V and look at ways of perhaps improving element life?  

My current (no pun intended) hypothesis is that it could be that the screen isn't getting the full 12V it is designed for and is thus drawing more current as a result?  

Or could it just be that the elements in the screen are "weak" in places and are simply burning out ?

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Simon Robinson
Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 20:53:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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I did some basic resistance tests of both screens when they were put in, can't remember the exact readings but the rear should take about 15 Amps and the front was very low, less than 1 Amp. The supply is direct from the battery so should be over 12V - the voltage gauge says when running the system produces about 14V with nothing running.

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Craig Smith
Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 21:25:05 Quote Report to Moderator
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That is a huge difference in current drawn, far greater than the comparative size of the heated area..

Going on those figures, and assuming a steady 12V feed, the respective resistances are 12ohm and 0.8ohm.

At 14V which you would expect when running you get 14ohm and 0.93ohm.

Something around 1ohm seems about right to me;

P=I^2 R gives you 209W at 0.93ohm which seems reasonable, however at 1A and 14ohm it gives 14W - barely enough to light a Neon, and certainly not enough to heat a screen..

I hate to say this but I suspect (and I have absolutely no proof) that you have been supplied with a faulty screen.
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Simon Robinson
Posted on: September 24th, 2013, 08:18:41 Quote Report to Moderator
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I did suspect that it was possibly faulty Craig, but apparently I was the first to actually wire one in so there are no comparisons! If someone else out there has a heated front that's not connected, it would be interesting to see any measurements they have.

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Stuart
Posted on: September 24th, 2013, 18:16:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Simon Robinson, posted September 24th, 2013, 08:18:41 at here
I did suspect that it was possibly faulty Craig, but apparently I was the first to actually wire one in so there are no comparisons! If someone else out there has a heated front that's not connected, it would be interesting to see any measurements they have.



Whilst not a direct comparison quite a lot of Midas owners have bought heated front screens, perhaps worth asking the question over on the Midas forum

http://midasownersclub.co.uk/forums/index.php?sid=e2bcc1079d264120eee6580fb6771d45
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Brian
Posted on: September 24th, 2013, 18:39:42 Quote Report to Moderator
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I need to check my window, but as I understand it (I can't recall where I read that, though, so I might just be making it up), the front screen has a circuit for the left side, and a separate circuit for the right side. Did you have the same behaviour on each side?
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Brian
Posted on: September 24th, 2013, 18:40:59 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Simon Robinson, posted September 24th, 2013, 08:18:41 at here
I did suspect that it was possibly faulty Craig, but apparently I was the first to actually wire one in so there are no comparisons! If someone else out there has a heated front that's not connected, it would be interesting to see any measurements they have.



It might be a few days, but I'll try to get a tester on my heated screen. It's not installed yet, so that should be fine, I just need to dig it out .
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Simon Robinson
Posted on: September 24th, 2013, 18:54:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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Brian - my screen only has two wires, one on either side - it only operates as a single screen. Not sure if yours is different but worth knowing what readings you get.

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 27th, 2013, 19:35:49 Quote Report to Moderator
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Just had a closer look at the screen I have.  It too only has two wires - one on each end of the screen.  I'm some way off fitting/wiring this but I look forward to the outcome of this discussion.

More important right now - can anyone make sense of how I need to check the position of the door mirrors, for IVA purposes?  It's got me confused  

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iva-manual-for-vehicle-category-m1

Sect 08 refers.

In the diagram in the manual (with floor marking 'A', floor marking 'B' and floor marking 'C') does the car get moved around so that the offside is in line with 'a', the nearside with 'c', the centreline with 'b'?

I understand the seat needs to be in the rearmost position for the test, the mirror must move (forward and rearward) with a force of 10kg, it has to be at a certain height (what height though?)

All I'm after is fitting the door mirrors!

Perhaps Mr Dickens has some recent experience of the IVA?

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Brian
Posted on: September 27th, 2013, 20:17:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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I was curious and just had a peek, that document is incredibly confusing . Bureaucracy at work!
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jimnaylor
Posted on: September 27th, 2013, 21:20:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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The way I read it is:
With the car in a fixed position, sitting in the rearmost position, for a drivers door mirror you need to see the mark at drivers door mirror height on pole A and at the same time see all the 2.5 m line on the floor.
Similarly with the interior mirror you need to see the mark at interior mirror height on pole B and all of the 20m line. Same with the passenger side mirror, pole C and the 4m line.

The way they have drawn it is confusing. A is how it is drawn, B should be drawn on the centre line of the car, C should be tight against the car as A but on the other side.

I suspect they have these laid out on the floor as drawn, at the test centre and so do move the car about to line up because of different widths of car. For home checking the lines can be laid out to match the car.

You need the drivers mirror but only need one of the other 2 two mirrors

But I'm no expert, only the way I read it.

Last modified September 27th, 2013, 21:28:27 by jimnaylor
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Brian
Posted on: September 27th, 2013, 22:45:01 Quote Report to Moderator
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Jim, that seems like a quite sensible reading, and jives with what I can see.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 28th, 2013, 14:27:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks guys.  That does seem a bit clearer Jim, the way you've explained it - I take it if you're able to see the line on a vertical pole at mirror height AND the line on the floor, anything above thatt line height mustn't be important!
I'm planning on both door mirror's and an interior mirror.  I'm not sure the interior mirror alone would satisfy the requirement of the 20m line at 60m - out of interest, any care to comment if the rear field of vision is that good on a MM?
Brian, what do you need to satisfy to get the car registered in the US?  I seem to recall the UK was one of the few (the only) country in Europe who challenged the small volume vehicle rules to allow kit-cars to be built by individuals, when they were last changed by Brussels.  At least it means the cars will be built to a 'reasonable' standard though.  Although who would want to drive around in a car that managed to 'cut corners' I don't know.  (I'm enjoying following your Mk6 progress by the way.  Whatever method of registration you have to employ, you'll soon be overtaking me with the momentum you're building up   )
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Brian
Posted on: September 28th, 2013, 15:49:33 Quote Report to Moderator
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Within the US, California is typically the strictest of all, mostly in terms of smog/emissions.

For example, to bring a car from another country, it typically must meet the emissions and safety features/requirements of the year it was created, as long as the car is 25+ years old. But, in CA, the it's locked to pre-1975, generally making it impossible to import a newer than 1975 car into the state.

However, about 10 years ago, a law was passed in CA that allows the first 500 new kit cars each year to get a perpetual nearly free pass from the requirements. These kit cars that get the pass need to meet the emissions requirements for the year the car "resembles" instead of the current year; if it doesn't resemble an existing vehicle, then it is assigned the requirements for 1960. However, from 1960-68, the only requirement was to have an enclosed crank case. After about 1975, it would start needing smog (emissions) testing every 2 years. I have printouts of the 1965 literature, so I'm assuming I will be classed as either '65, or since there weren't any others sold in the US, then maybe the 1960 default.

As an interesting trivia, the 500 sequence numbers allowing a build, used to all be taken in the first few hours of the first day of the year. Last year, however, there were some leftover at the end of the year. And this year, when I applied in April, I got one in the 30s (out of 500). I guess there aren't so many kit car builds lately.

As for street requirements/testing, I have to do a few tests, none nearly as involved as yours. I'm actually going to try to follow the IVA rules a bit to make sure I'm roadworthy. As for my tests, I have to work with 3 different agencies:
* the highway patrol (CHP -- police officers) to verify that the parts were legally purchased. Normally, I should be able to just take the car there in pieces with receipts, but my local office requires it, as department policy, to require the car to be in "finished state", at least in terms of lights, safety equipment, etc. I presume they will do a check that it complies with laws, such as the correct tires, mirrors, etc -- though nowhere as thorough test as the IVA, I can't tell because it will probably be an officer just looking for illegal stuff.
* after that, I need a local testing company to certify the brakes and lights. They will make sure the headlights are aimed properly, and adjust if needed. They will make sure the brakes perform, and that there is a functioning fluid light. And they will check for a horn, and that all the turn/stop lights work. This is usually the only safety test, if my local CHP didn't have that policy.
* bureau of automotive repair. This is where I need to get the "year" assigned. Then, they will do an emissions test. And as a pre 1975, they will need to test the emissions, and then delete the results in the computer and type in "exempt" in the place.

As for my plans, I had lots of delays in organizing; I had planned on having the shell ordered in Jan, and then delivered in May, etc. The way I registered it, it's going to be best if I meet those trials by the end of the year.

As for progress, I'm working hard to keep my momentum up. I try to go to the garage at least 4 times a week, but sometimes only for a few minutes. Just trying to do "something". Even if it's spending 10 minutes putting tools back, or attaching one thing. Also, I'm trying to keep it so I have at least 2 viable projects to work on at a time. That way when I find I'm missing something for one project and need to order it, I can still get other work done. So far, I've been bouncing from front and rear subframe assembly. And now I can work on fuel/wiring, too.


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jimnaylor
Posted on: September 30th, 2013, 19:23:09 Quote Report to Moderator
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The top of windscreen mounted interior mirror was so useless on mine I took it out! Some people have dash mounted ones and I think these are better. I also depends a bit how tall you are... an interesting one when checking field of view for a IVA test, as it doesn't specify the height of the tester.
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Brian
Posted on: October 1st, 2013, 19:04:11 Quote Report to Moderator
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Graham,

I'm getting to the stage of setting in the subframes. I had a few questions from things that I wasn't able to catch from your pictures of the process:

* For the rear, did you end up leaving the subframe offset to the right? Or did you do a fill and relocate ite?

* You mentioned that someone warned to get the subframes aligned to avoid crabbing -- did anyone get back to you with what to do there?

But in general, looking at your pictures, I'm a lot more confident in my next few steps here, though it's going to be a pain to get these mounted .

-brian
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: October 13th, 2013, 17:34:47 Quote Report to Moderator
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Got an hour in the garage this afternoon.
I managed to get the boot drain fitted:

And I got the mirrors fitted:


Not sure now whether I like these as much now - they might get changed for some smaller Formula Ford types after IVA.  No doubt I'll get used to them between now and then  
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: October 13th, 2013, 17:36:49 Quote Report to Moderator
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As for earthing the engine block, is the exhaust manifold nut any good?  (I suspect the conditions may be too hot and lead to failure/corrosion)

And do I need to earth the front subframe to the engine too?

Last modified October 13th, 2013, 17:37:41 by Graham Bichard
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: October 13th, 2013, 18:09:04 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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I brought an earth from the battery to one of the bolts for the top shock mount, then used that point to earth the engine block and electrics for the front of the car.

 
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 18:41:19 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've got the stud at the bulkhead to attach to Neil, but what did you attach the strap to on the engine?
And do you think I need to earth the front subframe seperately as well as the engine? (and the rear subframe too, really).
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jimnaylor
Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 18:54:14 Quote Report to Moderator
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The standard mini earth to the engine is from the subframe to a starter motor bolt. That also makes sure the connection is where the most current is required. Earth the subframe anywhere it's all electrically conductive. I connect inside the car to one of the subframe bolts through the floor at the back of the front subframe, but then again my cable is inside the car and I have no carpets.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 19:04:07 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks Jim.
Have you got a seperate earth on the rear subframe also?  I've got one to the tank.
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jimnaylor
Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 19:14:33 Quote Report to Moderator
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I have a beam axle not a rear subframe, that is not earthed. But I have used one of the rear subframe mounting bolt holes to hold a bolt acting as a terminal to earth the tank and rear lights etc.
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Brian
Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 21:11:10 Quote Report to Moderator
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The subframes shouldn't _need_ to be grounded explicitly, unless you are using them for electrical connections.

The fuel tank wants to be grounded for two reasons -- one is that the fuel level sender often uses this connection, and you need a good stable ground connection for your gauge to be accurate. But, also, you want to make sure that there is no large voltage differential between  your fuel tank and other nearby pieces of metal. I.e. you're filling your car with gas, and touch the body of the car (on a metal car), you don't want to have a shock. So, it may be a good idea for the rear subframe to be connected to the fuel tank, since they're so nearby.

Also, I've heard that on older all-metal cars, large sheets of ungrounded metal (hoods, doors, etc) would have a tendency to cause radio interference. Not sure if it is because they are a large sheet of metal or due to their mass...if the latter, then it would probably be a good idea to make sure that all the metal on the car is electrically connected to eachother. This would be subframes, fuel tanks, roll cages, engine.

I said it before, but probably worth mentioning again: bolts/nuts aren't good conductors, so make sure that if you're using a bolt into a subframe or any other part, make sure that the things you want to be electrically conducted are physically touching eachother. If you want to ground a lug to a subframe, via a bolt, make sure to scratch some paint off the subframe, and that the bolt is just holding the lug into contact with the subframe. Otherwise, you'll end up with flaky grounds, which can cause weirdness with gauges, and other electrical issues.
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Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 22:26:40 Quote Report to Moderator
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The fuel gauge sender usually has an earth tag on it, and this is the best way to earth the tank and sender.

Normally the two subframes will be connected by the brake line so if the front one has the usual strap to the engine there is no need to earth the rear subframe separately. Don't connect the battery to the rear subframe or you risk putting starter current through the brake line. An electric fuel pump needs a separate earth as it is insulated from its bracket on the subframe.

(ahem) I have used a bolt through the bulkhead crossmember to connect the earth cable from the battery (on the inside) to a strap to the engine. Actually it's a contact from a broken solenoid and I think it's copper plated steel. This has the advantage that I can earth the instruments, heater, etc on the inside.
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Simon Robinson
Posted on: October 15th, 2013, 07:34:47 Quote Report to Moderator
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Having had some "interesting" problems with dodgy electrical supply (the 'best' was when the live feed was corroded - switch on your indicator at 60mph and the whole car died...) make sure any connections are well protected from the elements. A good layer of copper grease will help.

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Brian
Posted on: October 15th, 2013, 09:36:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from admin, posted October 14th, 2013, 22:26:40 at here

(ahem) I have used a bolt through the bulkhead crossmember to connect the earth cable from the battery (on the inside) to a strap to the engine. Actually it's a contact from a broken solenoid and I think it's copper plated steel. This has the advantage that I can earth the instruments, heater, etc on the inside.



The copper bolts are fine, and designed for that. But the standard ones you find on the garage floor aren't as good. A copper lug is a good idea for getting earth from engine bay to dash, I'll probably use that method.

With our Corvair, we had some issues with wiring before we ran a ground strap to the body shell, even though the motor is bolted directly to the chasss (sizeable bolts through a piece of rubber, and into the car's body. Perhaps we had some rust insulation going on, though .

I also probably get a bit over-engineery on some of that stuff -- my dad's an electrician, and a flatmate is a manager at a battery distributor, and we all work together on the cars...
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Brian
Posted on: October 17th, 2013, 05:29:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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There was some talk a few weeks back about heated screens. I had been under the impression (without seeing one in person) that the heating elements were split in a right and left circuit. I just was re-reading the Summer club magazine, and realized where I got that impression. There's an article in there about the Midas screens having two sides, I must have assumed that they were all the same (since a page or so later, it talks about the Mini Marcos screens, too).

So much for reading comprehension!
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Brian
Posted on: October 18th, 2013, 10:11:14 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from admin, posted October 14th, 2013, 22:26:40 at here
The fuel gauge sender usually has an earth tag on it, and this is the best way to earth the tank and sender.




My tank sender (AAU8340MS from minispares) just has the one connection from the gauge to it. And since it's isolated from the tank by the cork, I guess the electrical connection is through the screws into the tank...

I may just solder a ground wire onto the sender unit, since I didn't get the fancy copper washers and the screws that they suggest.
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Simon Robinson
Posted on: October 18th, 2013, 13:26:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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My tank sender is the same, Brian - use any one of the mounting screws to earth it. Make sure it's a good connection though, mine was constantly reading about 1/4 tank lower than it should until I ran a new earth connection...

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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