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 Mini Jem door windows (currently 784 views) |
| Tim Neal |
| Posted on: May 2nd, 2010, 20:46:15 |
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Medium Member
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Quoted from admin, posted April 25th, 2010, 21:00:36 at here |
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You are aware that some rocker covers have taller filler necks than others?
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yes.....but the height of the rocker cover it self was even to high! |
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Reply: 15 - 33 |
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| Nick Evans |
| Posted on: May 9th, 2010, 21:48:28 |
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Medium Member
Posts: 116
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On my Jem I had similar clearance issues with the oil filler neck when I fitted the 1275 engine, so I fitted a standard steel 60's rocker cover and gently smacked the front of the neck with a large hammer. This depressed the filler cap just enough to miss the bonnet.
I had similar clearance issues with the thermostat housing and heater tap. So used a thermostat housing off an MG Midget. It's the same stud spacing but a lot flatter. The Heater tap was cut off, and I had intended using an inline heater tap off a later mini, but sold the car before sorting it.
In this pic you can see the Midget thermostat housing, and you can just make out the kink in the rocker cover at the front of the oil filler neck.
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Reply: 16 - 33 |
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| admin |
| Posted on: May 10th, 2010, 18:31:54 |
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 Administrator
Location: Maidenhead, UK
Posts: 2,380
Reputation: 1 (tot: 1) |
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| I think you can use a Metro type alloy rocker cover because the filler is in the middle where there's a bit more space. |
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Reply: 17 - 33 |
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| admin |
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Administrator
Location: Maidenhead, UK
Posts: 2,380
Reputation: 1 (tot: 1) |
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Posted on behalf of Jeremy:
The Mini Jem bonnet is finally finished. It now has a double,
forward-facing scoop, which clears both the rocker cover and the 45 DCOE
carb. It is painted in BMC Iris Blue and fits correctly in position. |
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Reply: 18 - 33 |
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| admin |
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Administrator
Location: Maidenhead, UK
Posts: 2,380
Reputation: 1 (tot: 1) |
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Reply: 19 - 33 |
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| admin |
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Administrator
Location: Maidenhead, UK
Posts: 2,380
Reputation: 1 (tot: 1) |
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Reply: 20 - 33 |
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| admin |
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Administrator
Location: Maidenhead, UK
Posts: 2,380
Reputation: 1 (tot: 1) |
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Reply: 21 - 33 |
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| Nick Harland |
| Posted on: April 5th, 2012, 21:59:38 |
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Baby Member
Posts: 31
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| i like this! Very classy. |
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Reply: 22 - 33 |
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| Piffer94 |
| Posted on: February 8th, 2017, 15:14:33 |
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Baby Member
Posts: 42
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I have read posts but I didn't see a reference for the lock door for the windows ? Which one did you use guys ? It is the same for the bonnet ones ?
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Last modified February 8th, 2017, 15:15:51 by Piffer94 |
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Reply: 23 - 33 |
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| mike brown |
| Posted on: February 8th, 2017, 17:57:36 |
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Big Member
Location: Southampton
Posts: 426
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The window lock is normally a panel lock (as a lot of people use for the bonnet). The idea is the lever part of the lock swings under the lifted window stopping it from being dropped.
Mike |
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Reply: 24 - 33 |
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| Allan_Scott |
| Posted on: February 8th, 2017, 22:04:08 |
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Baby Member
Posts: 18
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Quoted from Jeremy Harrison, posted April 6th, 2010, 06:42:03 at here |
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As you can see, there was severe damage to the car in 1973. The Estimate for repairs from Malcolm Fell was:
Mouldings:
Nose section & underskirt & driver's side wing £20
Rear moulding £35
Rear screen & fitting £17
Rear floor section £6
Materials:
Windscreen £22
Radiator 19.50
Perspex rear screen £6.50
Rubber and chrome strip for windscreen and rear screen £3
Carpeting £7
Petrol tank and locking cap £14
Head lining £17
Number plates £3
Labour charges:
Fibreglass £60
Mechanics £50
Transport to factory £20
Complete rub down and re-spray of whole car £60
Total £361+ £26.14 VAT
Total estimate for repair £387.54, which seems very reasonable now, but which was quite a lot in those days.
In the last photo, one of the new rear wing extensions can be seen which were fitted at the factory. I do not want them and I have carefully removed them. If anyone would like these genuine parts for your Jem, you can have them free of charge, but you'd need to pick them up from my home.
The car was repaired very well by the factory and it is only with stripping it to the bare shell that those repairs become aparent. I am having the whole shell restored and strengthened where necessary, so it should be as good as new very soon.
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Wow i got my shell off Malcolm in 1975 for £432 +8% vat so it was an expensive repair you should have got a new shell!
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Reply: 25 - 33 |
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| Piffer94 |
| Posted on: February 9th, 2017, 19:30:39 |
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Baby Member
Posts: 42
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Quoted from mike brown, posted February 8th, 2017, 17:57:36 at here |
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The window lock is normally a panel lock (as a lot of people use for the bonnet). The idea is the lever part of the lock swings under the lifted window stopping it from being dropped.
Mike
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I understand but do you have a reference for it ? for example from an another car or whatever ? |
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Reply: 26 - 33 |
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| mike brown |
| Posted on: February 9th, 2017, 19:35:51 |
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Big Member
Location: Southampton
Posts: 426
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Reply: 27 - 33 |
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| John_Campbell |
| Posted on: February 25th, 2017, 11:05:23 |
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Minimum Member
Posts: 94
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| Hi Jeremy, I used the same locks as Mike and if you're careful you can disassemble the mechanism insert a key and file off the excess retaining metal, which allows you to use the door keys or have both bonnet locks on one key. Saves having four different keys. |
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Reply: 28 - 33 |
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| mike brown |
| Posted on: February 25th, 2017, 11:23:30 |
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Big Member
Location: Southampton
Posts: 426
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The keys have a code on them which allows you to match the locks up to the same key. You should be able to buy them keyed alike from places like RS etc.
Mike |
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Reply: 29 - 33 |
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Mini Marcos Forum > General Boards > Mini Jem > Mini Jem door windows
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