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  Author    I have started to build the MK1 Jem  (currently 1,816 views)
Goff_Allen
Posted on: October 31st, 2016, 21:31:04
Attachment: sub1.jpg - 136.92 KB (4406 views)
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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first coat

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: October 31st, 2016, 21:36:08
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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hand brushed wet top coat in all the seams before spraying.

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: October 31st, 2016, 21:38:19
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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finished both subframes ready to build up

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: October 31st, 2016, 21:42:33
Attachment: arms.jpg - 145.28 KB (4396 views)
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Rear arms after a week soaking in molasses and just pressure washed ready to dry and paint

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: October 31st, 2016, 21:44:29
Attachment: arms1.jpg - 137.14 KB (4391 views)
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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and painted

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: November 1st, 2016, 11:56:19
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Heating up the Hydro tags on the rear subframe, Tap out flush then i can fit Dry rubber cones


Last modified November 1st, 2016, 11:58:12 by Goff_Allen
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Goff_Allen
Posted on: November 1st, 2016, 11:57:38
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again showing the tag heated up before knocking flush to form a ring so the rubber cone will fit

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 20:57:15
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I got a bit more done today,  Modified a pair of front suspension bottom arms by adding 1/4 inch to make them negative camber , This is how i do mine , The photos should tell the story , Mark and square of with the back part of the arm , This will not change the geometry of the caster angle same as happens when lengthening the arm by cutting and welding in the middle,  OK ,Mark out , Cut with a hacksaw , Build up with weld aprox 1/8 inch in the middle , about 3 runs and one run each side , Grind a V prep , Do this to the other piece , Make sure you still have the original hacksaw cut at the edge , so you can measure , or you could just mark the arm either side of the cut and scribe a line to work from , OK so now you have the bottom arm with a V prep ready for welding , Line it all up square and tack weld each end make sure its 1/4 inch gap , If you cannot burn through the root don't worry as after the first run you can grind out from opposite side , Weld on opposite sides to stop it from pulling out of square , Grind and flap disc to finish ,any under cut just use a 1.5 mild steel welding rod to fill in , Stick weld , Use Low Hydrogen rods 7016 or 7018 , pre-heat rods also , I used a bit of scrap plate to start my runs so i don't end up with porosity at the start , About 1 1/2 hrs to do both arms , First time i did this was in 1968 ,Yes 49 years ago .

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 20:57:57
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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arm

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 21:01:16
Attachment: arm3.jpg - 112.71 KB (4387 views)
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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run of plate for starting welding

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 21:03:38
Attachment: arm7.jpg - 108.19 KB (4389 views)
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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V prep

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 21:05:06
Attachment: arm11.jpg - 111.80 KB (4373 views)
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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!/4 inch gap

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 21:10:05
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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Tacked up one side


Last modified January 10th, 2017, 21:10:29 by Goff_Allen
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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 21:13:18
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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welded

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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 21:13:59
Attachment: arm14.jpg - 150.91 KB (4385 views)
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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finished

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