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  Author    Grannies Great Aunt!  (currently 3,370 views)
Pete Crudgington
Posted on: December 29th, 2006, 18:50:08 Quote Report to Moderator
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Just a quick note to say that my Mk 1 Jem RS C 1055 has finally made it to my garage at home after 10 years!

Have started stripping her down to make her into a historic race car.

So far looks very good, very light! and most of the glass looks pretty sound.

Will try to put some photos up in the coming weeks.

Pete
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Roger Garland
Posted on: December 30th, 2006, 11:55:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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It doesn't pay to rush these things Pete!
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: December 31st, 2006, 19:58:44 Quote Report to Moderator
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All,

she is now completely stripped to a shell and is on her side in the garage.  Crossmember is fine but end plates are shot as are the rear inner wings that look like a complete mini inner wing!

Will take some photos and get them up later in the week.

Pete
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 4th, 2007, 10:56:50
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A couple of photos

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 4th, 2007, 10:57:45
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Ride height looks abour right!

Exposed beam below, looks good here but see the next one for the ends!

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 4th, 2007, 10:58:37
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End of beam, and hopefully inner rear wing

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 4th, 2007, 10:59:19
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end of beam

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 3rd, 2016, 16:07:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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all

Not been on here for a few years!

after 9 year on non activity on the Jem it's back in the garage.

Rear arch steel cut out, front cross member now fully exposed.

Hardboard removed, to be replace with marine ply.

Will post up some photos when my internet is fast enough!

Plan is still the same, historic race car, hope fully complete later the year.

Pete
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Olly Lewis
Posted on: January 4th, 2016, 09:17:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello Pete,

What series are you looking to run it in? CSCC swinging sixties or HSCC events!

Olly
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 4th, 2016, 22:03:11 Quote Report to Moderator
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Olly

Have helped Julian and Ollie Howell with their mini for many years now, last year we ran that in the swinging 60's and had a good time, nice club and lots of variety of cars.  We gave the best sprites a good run for their money!

Car will be built like Granny Smith as a sprint and hill climb car (for me and my sons) but it is also likely to do some circuit racing, sort of keeping my options open!

Pete
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Olly Lewis
Posted on: January 7th, 2016, 13:32:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello Pete,

I too am looking at the CSCC Swinging Sixties for my Marcos, Looking to complete the re-build late spring/early summer with a view to dipping my racing toes into the water for Brands Hatch on 23 July and the test days building up to that. Hopefully I can get a reliable car for 2017!!

Kind Regards
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 10th, 2016, 14:35:32
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Work happening!

Will post phots of dash removed, Inner sills with wooden (rotten) strengthening removed, Rear inner ach with all steel removed, rear sub frame mount with steel removed and remnants of steel rear arches

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 10th, 2016, 14:36:12
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Inner sills

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 10th, 2016, 14:36:56
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Rear inner arch

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 10th, 2016, 14:38:17
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steel plates removed from all mounting points for replacement with stainless steel.

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: January 10th, 2016, 14:39:00
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This is what was left of rear steel arches!

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admin
Posted on: January 10th, 2016, 15:18:51
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My rear arches had gone exactly the same way so I had to rebuild them in all fibreglass except for a small stainless steel plate just to spread the load aroung the damper. Getting the metal arch out was the hardest bit. On this side I managed to extract it from above. When i did the other side I cut out a section of the inner arch and got it out from below. There were two completely separate layers of fibreglass with the steel arch loose in between them. I kept the inner arches and laminated over the top of them.


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mike brown
Posted on: January 10th, 2016, 16:52:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Interestingly the moulds are similar in that area to the Marcos so there was no need for steel in there at all. Mind there is no need for an steel anywhere in the shell (except a roll cage) if you make some minor adjustments to the lay up and shape/design.
Mike
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admin
Posted on: January 12th, 2016, 11:57:35 Quote Report to Moderator
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Yes, it looks like the underneath was moulded as part of the floor pan, then the steel arch was put in and glassed over except for the damper mounting. Then the inner skin panel was put in. I didn't want to disturb that bit so I've retained the outer radius behind the panel and filled in my cut-outs from underneath. When I did the other side I knew what to expect so I cut out a much bigger slot underneath and then fitted it back in after getting the steel and rust out. That left a gap between the two layers so I could laminate over the inner radius. For the most inaccessible bits I mixed up some chopped strand filler and pushed it into the slot with a spatula.

On the Marcos you just have a bit of steel from around the damper hole down to the floor, which is better as it's harder for salt and water to get at it. I remember Harold saying the steel wasn't really necessary but they did it because it made customers feel happier.
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: February 5th, 2017, 13:35:03
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All some progress lately, DA'd the body back through many colours back to the white gel coat and uncovered quite a bit more damage!  Want to keep the car looking like a Mk1 with no arches so may take a mould and make  new front end.

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: February 5th, 2017, 13:35:47
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another picture

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: February 5th, 2017, 13:36:20
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and another

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: February 5th, 2017, 13:38:32
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Bonnets, based on my past experience of losing one at 110mph during a sprint I was going to take a mould of this one.  There has been some talk of ones suitable from small bore engines and big bore engines in other posts, whats this one good for?

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mike brown
Posted on: February 5th, 2017, 14:10:24 Quote Report to Moderator
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I think yours is the small bore version. The moulds I have (mk2 and 3) have a wider bonnet vent on top. It looks to me like the mk2 bonnet might fit your appiture. Would you mind taking some measurements so I can compare it would be useful to others if the mk2 bonnet fit the mk1 as well.
Mike

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: February 5th, 2017, 15:18:25
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Mike, many thanks.  Please see very basic sketch attached.  Measurements taken from underside.  
What sort of state are the mk 2 front moulds in?

Cheers pete

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mike brown
Posted on: February 5th, 2017, 15:34:42 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks Pete I'll check them when I get home. The bonnet mould is serviceable the front end mould is very tired it would require lots of tape and plasticine to get one out. I do also have a one piece front mould as fitted to the race mk2s but it does have mk3 style arches. The mk3 moulds are in pretty good shape but again the arches and bonnet appiture are different. As far as I can tell the mk1 and 2 are the same upto the scuttle but I would need two side by side to confirm this.
Mike
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mike brown
Posted on: February 5th, 2017, 17:36:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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It does look like mk1 and 2 bonnets are the same shape.
Mike
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: February 5th, 2017, 19:04:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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Mike,

Thats good new, need to meet up some time to sort things out, no real rush as its taken 21 years to get this far!  Will make front good to take a mould from but would like to see some of your front moulds to see where joint lines are.

Any idea why the bonnets are different shapes?  big bore engines are a little taller I guess but than can be offset with rocker cover filler heights etc.  Car will be on a 45 DCOE so no need to clear SU carbs.

Cheers Pete
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mike brown
Posted on: February 5th, 2017, 20:07:36 Quote Report to Moderator
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The front end moulds go all the way back to the windscreen, joins the roof mould at the bottom of the a pillar, the side mould meets it along the door shut then it cuts across the a panel to the wheel arch.

It would be good to meet again it's been a while. I think the bonnet thing came about because the early cars only had small engines so when people started fitting bigger engines they suddenly realised the bonnet didn't fit any more so the made a new mould with a wider bulge. Interestingly the bonnet mould is in a different colour gel to all the other moulds I have so I wonder if it's either an original  mk1 mould or its just earlier than the mk2 moulds.
Mike
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: May 29th, 2017, 10:56:32 Quote Report to Moderator
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Good progress recently, rear inner arches done, new inner sills and floor strengthening.  Larger rear st.st plates with platform for roll cage.  Front also stitched back together.  New plywood box section panels filled over reach arched, replacing the hardboard
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: May 29th, 2017, 10:57:23
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sorry problems with phots!

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: May 29th, 2017, 10:57:50
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more

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: May 29th, 2017, 10:58:16
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underside

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: May 29th, 2017, 10:58:48
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rear arches

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: May 29th, 2017, 10:59:16
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floor plate

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: May 29th, 2017, 11:00:07
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all glassed in

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: May 29th, 2017, 11:00:46
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floor front drivers side

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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: June 7th, 2017, 20:32:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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Where are you getting your roll cage from??
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: June 9th, 2017, 20:12:44
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Chris, will let you know about roll cage, have a couple of options.

Done a bit more in past week or so.

New end plates on cross member and then reglassed it all back in.

Standard photo of a jem on its side in a garage!

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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: June 10th, 2017, 20:25:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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Yes, please do Pete! Top job by the way!
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Graham_Thurston
Posted on: June 12th, 2017, 09:24:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thought I'd get involved here!
I'm at a similar stage with mine. I got a drawing of a roll cage from Allan Scott, and will be looking at commissioning one soon. There is a guy in Norwich, quite near to me, who makes them for short track racers, and assuming he can use the CDS tube and work to MSA guidelines, should offer a solution. I'm not ready for the cage yet so will keep you posted. The big boys of this particular industry are expensive, and seem to want to weld it in.
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: June 12th, 2017, 18:44:29
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Bit more done, air box now complete as well.

With regards roll cages, back in 94 when I built Granny Smith (DH8351) I got the tubes from the rollcentre and fitted it all my self.  Seen a few bad crashes in the passing years so the roll cage will not be cheap, after all it may save my life one day.

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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: June 12th, 2017, 19:11:33 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello,

Graham just a thought.. so you may smell burning! just wondering if your man in Norwich would possibly do a small run of them? (Bolt type) as I'd certainly be interested in one and it may reduce the over all cost with a few of them. What sort of spec is your cage? Full multi point?
Or if you would be willing to copy your designs (at a price if it's cost you of course )I'd also be interested it that.
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: June 12th, 2017, 19:13:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Looking spot on Pete!
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: June 13th, 2017, 09:45:42 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Don't know if you can view this, it's a build by Nicolas Pinon in France, cage was made by Endaf Owens.

https://www.facebook.com/ateli.....sw_fnr_id=2640461497

 
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: June 13th, 2017, 17:24:10 Quote Report to Moderator
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Neil

Thanks for the link, quite  build!

Good to know that Endaf has done a mini marcos, he was one of the people I was going to approach.  The other cages out there in recent years have been done by Caged, but they appear to be in some finical difficulty at present.

Pete
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: June 18th, 2017, 18:11:44
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Less progress this weekend.
Under side and engine bay now rollered in black topcoat.

Interestingly the floor was originally black gel coat and resin and about 3 to 4 mm think, the body is all white gel coat and resin and 1.5 to 2mm thick or should that be thin!  Granny by comparison is 8 to 10mm thick in the original body!

Now to build up and attach subframes so its a roller and then off for a roll cage.

Travelling the USA for the next few weeks to no further action until July.

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: July 15th, 2017, 11:26:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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Felt that I had better weigh the shell as I have put quite a bit of weight back in having previously cut out a lot.

so quite happy with result of 103.5 kg, this includes bonnet, pedal box and two master cylinders.

Quoted weight of bare shell is 230lbs (104.4kg) so looks like I haven't changed things too much.

Pete
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Colin_Bell
Posted on: July 15th, 2017, 15:13:09 Quote Report to Moderator
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Pete
I appreciate your posts as I've just this morning power washed my Jem shell that's been in a barn for 15 years!
I have already removed the steel plate on one side for the rear subframe mount. Was going to use the remaining original to locate the replacement beam and make a new stainless plate up, glass it in and then ditto for the other side.
I'm curious as you've already ripped yours to bits in the manner I think I may have to.
I'm not too clear on Richard's description of taking the metal rear arches out - I had no idea there was so much metal in there! How did you remove yours and are you just putting in a metal plate for the damper mount? More glassfibre?
Also I was presuming the strength in the sills was in the glassfibre box section so thought I'd leave as is (once I've replace what I removed for the rear beam mount plates). I saw you'd removed inners completely and replaced minus a bit for the roll cage presumably? Is that where you made a box out of plywood and glassed over?
I intend to have a cage made which will link to the rear beam mounts and I thought maybe the damper mounts (but I have to check regs for hillclimbs which I do). Is that what you're up to with the space at the back of the inner sills?
Keep up the good work and posts so I can do what you do!
Cheers
Colin
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: July 15th, 2017, 17:00:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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Colin

Welcome to the challenges ahead!

The rear arches have a complete metal inner arch glassed in, I cut this out by removing the fibre glass covering it on the inside of the car.  Angle grinder and cutting disk with great care and face mask was best way to cut around the edges and then remove it with some large screw drivers and levers!  Just don't bring all the way through!  I just layed 5 or 6 layers of glass back over this having made a wooden mould for where the shocker goes, no steel used!

The sills have a 5/8 thick piece of wood running the length of the door down the middle, this is glassed in and then the box section is glassed on top.  I removed all this as the wood was rotten.  I filled the but under the door with celotex building insulation (wicks) glassed this in then created the shape I needed with celotex and glassed over this.  It's now much more rigid than it was.  I left the back of the sills open so there was space to get to the rear subframe mounts as this has always been a big issue on Granny Smith

Generally you are not allowed to pick up shock absorber mounts with roll cages.

If yours is also a Mk1 it is likely to be similar but not sure about the Mk2 or 3's

Just remember if it was easy everyone would be doing it!

Cheers

Pete
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admin
Posted on: July 18th, 2017, 14:05:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Pete Crudgington, posted July 15th, 2017, 17:00:22 at here
The rear arches have a complete metal inner arch glassed in, I cut this out by removing the fibre glass covering it on the inside of the car.  Angle grinder and cutting disk with great care and face mask was best way to cut around the edges and then remove it with some large screw drivers and levers!  Just don't bring all the way through!  I just layed 5 or 6 layers of glass back over this having made a wooden mould for where the shocker goes, no steel used!



Same problem here. It failed the MoT because of the rusting insert on the left side. The right side was almost as bad. I got the insert out with great difficulty on the inside of the car, not wanting to disturb the fibreglass between the inner and outer skins. The steel insert was loose between two layers of fibreglass. Eventually I managed to get it out after snipping the metal in a few places so it would bend. I then rebuilt the arch in fibreglass as shown. There's a small stainless steel plate just to spread the shock absorber load a bit.



Having now passed the MoT it made sense to do the other side. This time I cut a large piece of the fibreglass out from the inside of the arch i.e. on the outside of the shell. This allowed me to get the insert out more easily. I think I had chopped off the bit around the shock mount first. I then replaced the big bit of fibreglass and laminated it in from above before filling the joint from below. Then I rebuilt the arch as before, except that the second attempt was slightly neater than the first!

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admin
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This is the Mk. 3. Obviously HPM thought better of using the steel arches.
Note improved battery box.


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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:17:42
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Bit more of an update.

Like many owners I am struggling with head room, so dropped the floor 2" on the drivers side, this now gives enough clearance (just!) for a helmet.

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:22:48
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Also made a new rear beam, not happy with the ones you can buy.  The end plates are detachable and attach using the same bolts that hold the beam in place.  I have also added an additional mount where the inner radius arm mount is.  Will attached some photos below

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:23:15
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More beam photos

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:23:49
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and more

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:24:20
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and fitted

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:24:44
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end fitted

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:25:28
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so car in now on all 4 wheels at long last!

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:25:50
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and another

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:27:17
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last one!

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: March 10th, 2018, 12:17:35
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Jem now has a T45 filly TIG welded multi point cage fitted by Ben as Caged Laser.  FIA appendix K regs dent allow the front stays but as I quite like working legs they are fitted!

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: March 10th, 2018, 12:18:09
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and another view

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: March 10th, 2018, 12:18:34
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one more

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mike brown
Posted on: March 10th, 2018, 21:30:42 Quote Report to Moderator
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Love the cage. I assume the gear linkage is going over that front cage tube and the exhaust is going under.
Mike
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: March 11th, 2018, 08:38:58 Quote Report to Moderator
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Mike gear linkage will be in car so rod will pass over tube.  Exhaust will also go over tube as I want to run this higher in the tunnel out of the wind.  The front cross bar pick up on the subframe mounts when Dean Robertson had his big hit a few years ago the subframe came up through the floor!  Lots and lots to do!
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: March 12th, 2018, 11:30:04 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Wow.


I'll leave it at that.

 
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Rodger Howard
Posted on: March 13th, 2018, 07:43:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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A very nice job Pete. I went a little further and picked up the rear shock mounts as well as some tortional rigidity around the occupants How have you handled the connection to The subframe towers? Crush tubes and threads in the subframe?
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: March 18th, 2018, 16:48:20
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Generally you are not allowed for feed suspension forces directly in to a roll cage so you need to be careful picking up on the shocker tops.

The front legs go forward between the two bolts the hold the subframe to the crossmember.  A single bolt then bolts the end of the tube to the crossmember.  

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: March 18th, 2018, 16:48:49
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from inside

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Ian_Davies
Posted on: February 10th, 2019, 20:39:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello Pete,
Looking good so far. I’m a bit behind you  with my mk 2 jem Hillclimb car. I’ve owned it since 1989. Looking at your forward facing bars to the front crossMember , I assume you are able to put the rubber springs in without the compression tool? Or have you offset the bar to allow access to the hole. I wouldn’t mind copying this if possible.
Also , are you intending to run in road going class.
I’m building mine to run slicks so will probably be in with the racing Caterham type things.
I’ll upload some images when I work out how to do it !!
Regards
Ian
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Ian_Davies
Posted on: February 10th, 2019, 20:41:04 Quote Report to Moderator
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Why is # 8217 everywhere!!
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: February 11th, 2019, 11:44:49 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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It's &#8217 and its the HTML code for the right single quotation mark, I suspect a keyboard setting issue as I presume you were intending to use an apostrophe.

 
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Ian_Davies
Posted on: February 11th, 2019, 19:16:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks Neil
Makes sense now.
Ian
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simon5666
Posted on: March 23rd, 2020, 19:52:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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I wondered if anyone has got force racing to make mini marcos / jem parts out of titanium?  They produce very high quality parts
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