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I have started to build the MK1 Jem (currently 4,945 views) |
Goff_Allen |
Posted on: May 20th, 2017, 20:41:51
Attachment: 72.jpg - 123.57 KB (4527 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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Cut the subframe |
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Reply: 75 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: May 20th, 2017, 20:42:31
Attachment: 73.jpg - 147.85 KB (4542 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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and the inside |
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Reply: 76 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: May 20th, 2017, 20:44:44
Attachment: 74.jpg - 122.78 KB (4517 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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and bent the other side |
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Reply: 77 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: May 20th, 2017, 20:45:59
Attachment: 75.jpg - 118.30 KB (4518 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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no hole for the remote??? |
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Reply: 78 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: May 20th, 2017, 20:49:17
Attachment: 78.jpg - 141.83 KB (54 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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Ready at last |
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Reply: 79 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: May 20th, 2017, 20:51:52
Attachment: 77.jpg - 155.04 KB (4514 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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Fitted subframe |
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Reply: 80 - 167 |
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mike brown |
Posted on: May 21st, 2017, 07:34:34 |
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Big Member


Location: Southampton Posts: 427
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Reply: 81 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: January 17th, 2018, 20:39:32
Attachment: 101.jpg - 157.50 KB (4539 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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I am back again , After a short illness and taking it easy while i recovered, i did not do much all summer and most of the autumn , I discovered that this shell as a some major work done but not properly !!!! , Yes more set back , Walked round and round taking measurements come to the conclusion it as had top half on a bottom half , after i fitted the front subframe , the gap on wheel arch was about 11/2 more than the other , if i level them them up the car was leaning by same amount ,Come to the conclusion that it was about 25 mm OUT , I fell out with the car !!! after a couple of months pondering what to do i decided to cut across the fire wall above the front cross member , along the inner wing , down the inner wheel arch and through the door frame just below the bottom hinge on the passenger side, Placed a strut in the door frame and jacked it up , moving it about 20mm , The photo's maybe tell it better , put the subframe back on and did a bit more jacking around the front , Finally got it near enough ,Then fibreglass and let it stand a couple of days before i removed the struts , Next still plenty of work to finish of in the engine bay , filling sanding ect , also start building the engine . |
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Reply: 82 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: January 17th, 2018, 20:41:55
Attachment: 103.jpg - 184.66 KB (4537 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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Cut firewall behind and down the inner wheel arch |
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Reply: 83 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: January 17th, 2018, 20:42:41
Attachment: 102.jpg - 183.55 KB (3499 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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door pillar |
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Reply: 84 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: January 17th, 2018, 20:53:19
Attachment: 104.jpg - 120.42 KB (4534 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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Looking in the engine bay why did i not notice this , look at the bulkhead firewall , off side is right , nearside is 20 mm smaller , measure from the scuttle to the cross member on both sides 20 mm difference and it had hole for the subframe bolt drilled through the gutter were the bonnet fits , Love is blind. |
 | Last modified January 17th, 2018, 20:55:29 by Goff_Allen |
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Reply: 85 - 167 |
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Graham_Thurston |
Posted on: January 19th, 2018, 09:55:53 |
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Baby Member

Posts: 18
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Having gone through a similar stage to Goff, I reached the conclusion that there was not a lot of accuracy infitting the floor moulding into the top. The rear subframe could only be fitted by stressing the rubber mounts, so with poly bushes the whole lot had to be shoved over a bit. The front required similar treatment, but the important thing was to get both subframes level. The rear arches were also a pain. Having replaced all the metal, I have tried to get metal to metal contact where the bolts go through, rather than bolting through a sandwich of GRP, by bonding in a stainless washer to the shell. But trying to establish a datum line on the shell is mysterious. Even the rear panel is asymmetric. So you have my sympathy, and best wishes for the eventual solution |
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Reply: 86 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: January 28th, 2018, 16:14:09 |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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Had a good week ,Been building the engine up , Its a bitsa engine & gearbox Rod change -1300 Pre + k from a scrap yard in Doncaster , The diff pin gear came loose and smashed the geabox casing + planet gears £120 , Block rebored +10 ,cam bearings fitted and decked about 6 mm , Crankshaft from South Africa £200 , regound 10 mains , 10 big ends , Its works out just under 1100 cc , Head from Manchester , 1300 GT off ebay for £40 ,listed as a bog standard 1300 though it needed a full recon including exhaust valves , Mini spares Evo 2 cam , Gearbox came from Nottingham for £50 ,standard from a Mini 1000 last of the remotes , Stripped down all new bearings , Syncros, second gear and a minispares cross pin diff Should make a nice fast road engine , Rest of the bits from a couple of engines. |
Last modified January 28th, 2018, 16:14:59 by Goff_Allen |
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Reply: 87 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: January 28th, 2018, 16:23:10
Attachment: 113.jpg - 180.17 KB (53 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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SA crankshaft |
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Reply: 88 - 167 |
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Goff_Allen |
Posted on: January 28th, 2018, 16:30:17
Attachment: 119.jpg - 201.24 KB (4534 views) |
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Big Member

Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire Posts: 399
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Engine |
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Reply: 89 - 167 |
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