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  Author    Engine respray and cage  (currently 4,847 views)
Joost van Dien
Posted on: September 7th, 2008, 15:22:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello,

I've been bussy preparing the engine for a respray. And this is the result. The colour is the same as the stripe that will run over the car and the nose.  
Front
Back
First I sanded the engine to get rid of the rust. Then I sprayed 2 K epoxy on and wet on wet sikkens 2 K car paint. And ive polished the clutch housing! Please comment! (The pulley housing need work so dont look at that!)

And the cage is in the making. Here some photos. (The hoop is going new because it needs a dubble bend, so dont look at it please) There is much more to come but this is a rough base.

The cross
Above the doors
Love this picture...

Please post comment!

Cheers


Last modified September 7th, 2008, 15:25:27 by Joost van Dien
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paul harcourt
Posted on: September 7th, 2008, 18:47:37 Quote Report to Moderator
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Looking good Joost, keep going!
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: September 7th, 2008, 19:17:19 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks you! Most of the suspention is ready to fit so if my front subframe had an acid bath I will put it together and test the coilover setup.. its compleetly differend from a normal suspention!

Last modified September 7th, 2008, 19:18:00 by Joost van Dien
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Syd Crawford
Posted on: September 8th, 2008, 00:43:53 Quote Report to Moderator
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Nice work Joost! While you are in the roll cage making stage you may want to think about rear harness mounts (if you will be using them) also testing were the main hoop location is in regards to the seats. Also, you can't register a car here with a full cage. Just some thoughts, in case it helps.

Syd
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: September 28th, 2008, 15:54:18 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello,

An update about the suspension so far.

I've blanked all the parts with a very hard steel brush which I fitted on the grinder. It works very well it only cost you a lot of hours for all the parts .
Then I sprayed 2k epoxie and then wet on wet Autocolor 2k car paint, the same color as the car gets! (sneak preview) I've made a compilation about the new and refurbished parts!


Rear setup with refurbished radius arm (not included brake setup)

Other side with new brake line and new bearings for the hub

Piece of the front setup with refurbished arm

Front brake and suspention setup with brake line

Front again
My excuse for the photos that laydown.. but can't get them right..

Please comment!
cheers

Last modified September 28th, 2008, 17:46:06 by Joost van Dien
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Syd Crawford
Posted on: September 28th, 2008, 22:53:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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Well, that's just mini porn
Make sure you check for clearance with the coil overs. My friend had no front suspension yesterday at a race meeting here until he realised the bottom flange  that holds the spring on the coilover was locking up against the subframe tower. Fixing that improved his times by 2 seconds!

Last modified September 28th, 2008, 22:54:56 by Syd Crawford
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Tertius van Zyl
Posted on: September 29th, 2008, 05:49:17 Quote Report to Moderator
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Syd, I recall someone here once telling me that ex motorcylce coilovers could be used on the rear in order to save costs. Ever heard of that?
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: September 29th, 2008, 20:21:10 Quote Report to Moderator
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I will check that!! tnx for the tip . And I forgot to reply on youre harnass tip! I've asked it at the company that build the rollcage. And they borrowed me a book that was about race regulations! There was a specific angle for he harnass belts... But they told me that the chance that the would check this when its gets its plates is very small! But I've mesured it a bit and I think the angle is pretty near the right angle.. thats because the seats are further forward and the tube is in line with the bolts were you connect the rear subframe with the car.. if you know what I mean  . I hope I can post new pics from the cage next week!

cheers
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Syd Crawford
Posted on: September 30th, 2008, 04:00:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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mmm... no I haven't heard that you can use motorbike coilovers. Maybe it is just the spring part with a modified mini Damper? I want to race mine in production sports so I can't use them anyway (my friend was just using the damper part of the coilover).
Look forward to seeing some completed roll cage pics Joost. I am going to have to make a cage for mine so I am always looking at different designs for idea's. I'll have to make the front part of mine removovable which is a PITA (for either road/race use). From memory I think the harness mount has to be within 20 degrees of horizontal.
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: October 5th, 2008, 16:17:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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hello,

New photos from the cage! Its not compleet yet but nearly. Its A fully removible cage.


The front. Cross in the doors need to be completed, above window tube, and diagonal above the head.

Rear piece. Hoop is different with a bend in it. Extra tube between cross and diagonal for more stifniss but needs to be added.

Taken from front window

Please post comment

Cheers

Last modified October 5th, 2008, 16:18:37 by Joost van Dien
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Syd Crawford
Posted on: October 5th, 2008, 21:21:09 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks for the pics. Havn't seen a main hoop bent at the bottom like that. Keep up the good work.
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Gert-Jan Westerveld
Posted on: October 10th, 2008, 19:03:40 Quote Report to Moderator
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Its splendid   I am getting jealous.

Rebuild engine  1312CC  .    
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John Dickens
Posted on: October 11th, 2008, 09:47:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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Motorcycle coilovers are much narrower but they're not really built for the hard life they would get in a car wheel arch. I suspect the seals wouldn't last too long in this location.
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admin
Posted on: October 11th, 2008, 10:57:44 Quote Report to Moderator
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When we made some enquiries a while back, Huddersfield Spares were doing rear beam and coilover kits with Avo shocks. We concluded that you would need 70lb/in springs at the back for a Mini Marcos. I guess that's about 1.25kg/mm (or t/m).
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John Dickens
Posted on: October 11th, 2008, 18:19:42 Quote Report to Moderator
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70 lb/in is what I was using on my Mk III racer. It might also be worth contacting the Midas owners too. I believe they used double rate springs. 120/70 lb/in comes to mind but my memory is not what it was.
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: October 13th, 2008, 08:57:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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shame me.. I dont know lb/in my shocks are.. front is the lowered gaz and rear is normal hight gaz.. Has anybody got any experience with those shocks? And I never heard of motor bike shocks.

cheers,
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admin
Posted on: October 13th, 2008, 10:22:34 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've always used normal height dampers - originally Armstrong Redmax-4s as supplied with the kit and then Spax gas. The suspension is lowered a bit but not sufficiently to bottom the shocks. This is with rubber cones - coil springs might give you a bit more suspension travel.

Last modified October 13th, 2008, 10:24:51 by admin
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: October 13th, 2008, 11:04:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Should you really mix lowered and standard shocks ?

 
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: October 13th, 2008, 16:22:00 Quote Report to Moderator
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I think that the front of a marcos always look higher dan at the back.. and if I put normal hight at the rear and lowered at the front I hope it will be mucht better. And then they are fully hight adjustible so I can set them up how I want!

cheers

Last modified October 13th, 2008, 16:22:50 by Joost van Dien
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: October 13th, 2008, 16:42:55 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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But will you not be limited by the free length of the lowered shock ?

 
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admin
Posted on: October 13th, 2008, 20:59:42 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Neil KilBane, posted October 13th, 2008, 11:04:27 at here
Should you really mix lowered and standard shocks ?



You can do. The shocks don't affect the suspension height and the damping is the same. The important thing is that you don't run out of travel otherwise you are putting all the stresses directly on the mounting brackets and rear wheel arches.
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: October 25th, 2008, 17:41:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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The cage is finished! Here the final pics of an unpainted cage.

Please give me feedback


Front

With proud owner

Peace of rear

Rear

Rear

Roof section

Front again

Me again

Love...

If any one wants full size pictures by mail please send me an pm with your email adress and I will send u a email with large photos (~3mb per pic)

Cheers,
Joost

Last modified October 25th, 2008, 18:04:55 by Joost van Dien
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Gert-Jan Westerveld
Posted on: October 25th, 2008, 18:02:54 Quote Report to Moderator
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Its splendid I am jealous.

Rebuild engine  1312CC  .    
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Allan Brown
Posted on: October 25th, 2008, 19:06:43
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Looks good.
I guess you will have a removable steering wheel like I have. With door bars like that it makes it very hard getting in and out with a fixed steering wheel.
The only thing I would recommend is triangulated bars going forward to the front subframe towers just incase of a front impact.

Allan

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Joost van Dien
Posted on: November 8th, 2008, 16:03:55 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello,

After a lot of sanding and working with the steel brush on my front subframe I was called that the cage was fully welded! And I have some pictures of it.

@ Allan I think I go for the Raid HP removable steering device. I was thinking about your idea of building the cage out into the front subframe, but because of the cost of the cage I let it be for what it is. But thanks for the tip!



Front above

Back above



I update when I have sprayed the front subframe and cage.

Cheers

Last modified November 8th, 2008, 21:52:04 by Joost van Dien
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Syd Crawford
Posted on: November 8th, 2008, 21:00:46 Quote Report to Moderator
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Looks good Joost. Nice and strong
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Tom Wiggers
Posted on: November 8th, 2008, 22:59:07 Quote Report to Moderator
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http://www.mframe.be/ontwikkelingen/mini-macros.aspx

Macros??? LOL

Last modified November 8th, 2008, 23:00:11 by Tom Wiggers
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: November 9th, 2008, 11:21:42 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi Tom,

Yes the wrote it wrong .... But its about the cage and not about the wrong name so I dont mind

cheers

Last modified November 9th, 2008, 11:22:49 by Joost van Dien
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Rodger Howard
Posted on: November 14th, 2008, 08:52:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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What is the cage resting on to stop it pushing through the floor in the event of an accident?
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: November 16th, 2008, 15:41:49 Quote Report to Moderator
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@ Rodger
The plates at the end of each corner I can put 3 bolts through. High tensile 12.9 bolts with very big metal plates at the bottom to spread the weight. And the back of the cage you can put few bolts through the bottom and its connected with the beam axle and the shock absorbers and another 2 bolts  through the metal plate that is laminated inside the poleyster! I know that the front plates are not that big but maybe I weld a pleace on it myself. The rest of the cage is tig welded.
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Garry Scott
Posted on: November 22nd, 2008, 17:47:36 Quote Report to Moderator
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i dont know what a marcos spring rate would be but ive got 150lb springs in the rear of my clubman, i spoke to the guy at merlin motorsport when i was buying them as he designed the rear beam for speedex back in the 60s
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: November 28th, 2008, 16:23:37 Quote Report to Moderator
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I have to look for the lb's I have.. I post as soon as possible!!
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: October 23rd, 2009, 18:32:42 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello everybody..

A new update! After a lot!!! of time! This is because of school and work.. I work 5 days for school and 2 days in the weekend so not much time.. But bit by bit there are lots of things done on the mm sometimes you can not see them directly..

I wanted to do the underside first. Because then I could put the rear beam and front subframe with wheels under the car and sand the car on a normal height! So after 2 weeks of working on my back under the car! Sanding fiberglassing and more sanding and sanding.. It was finally ready for the structure couting for the inner wheel arches. There was so much fiberglass work done on them that it was not always the best vieuw under the car so with a bit structure coat it was much better. Then I sprayed it with 2k grey epoxy couting to seal it of from water.

The front plates were you can mound the shocks are reinforced with steel welded plates. At the outside there is a 3mm thick plate made to fit. I have drilled 2 extra holes at each side. Because all the weight will be on these point now.. It is only the body with all the stuff in but it is still not bad to reinforce!





















































Wheel arches before spraying so you can see it was straight before spraying and no filler!  





I remade the dashboard as it was grinded away by someone who was not capable of having a mm. I did this with a flat plate under the old piece and fiberglassed over the old pieces that were left. Result:





I also have made some changes to the engine. Polished the LCB so it can get nice blue shinny:



Front and rear suspension before fitting:







It costed me 2 days to polish but the result of the fuel tank:





Fitted front and rear suspension:

























It took a long time but now a big update!

Cheers,

Joost

Last modified October 23rd, 2009, 18:37:36 by Joost van Dien
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Allan Brown
Posted on: October 23rd, 2009, 20:08:14 Quote Report to Moderator
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Excellent work.
It is amazing how you feel as if nothing is happening then all of a sudden it all comes together.
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Syd Crawford
Posted on: October 23rd, 2009, 21:14:35 Quote Report to Moderator
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Yeh, nice work Joost. Good to see it coming along.
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: May 26th, 2010, 10:33:47 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello,

Its a long time ago.. I was very busy with school and work.. But the car has transformed as well!!

Sanding and sanding..

spray cabine
first 3 layers of 2k epoxy




next day sanding it a bit back and fill up all the pin holes.
Then 3, 4 or 5 layers of spray filler in different colour, so you can see were you are with sanding and flatting out.





Inside and engine bay spray
First epoxy and then paint.





With dashboard



Covering plate for the old fuel tank hole.


It was lots and lots of hard work, but I think its worth it!
I will post some pictures of the head lining soon.

Cheers,

Joost

Last modified May 28th, 2010, 08:09:27 by Joost van Dien
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 26th, 2010, 19:55:01 Quote Report to Moderator
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As has already been said, Joost, excellant work.  And very inspirational - can't wait to get to that stage  
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: May 26th, 2010, 21:41:51 Quote Report to Moderator
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THanks Graham! If anyone else from the forum need any pictures from somthing like body shape or specefic thinks maybe I can help with pictures. I have more than 1000 pictures of this car and more than 1500 in total from other marcoses etc. Let me know by email of on this topic. I will post pictures of the headlining, fuel tank and cage as soon as possible. Hope to do this sunday.

Cheers,
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Richard Fysh
Posted on: November 9th, 2010, 00:10:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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Absolutely stunning work Joost... Keep up the good work
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: November 9th, 2010, 23:46:18 Quote Report to Moderator
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Did you spray your arm as well?  
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: July 19th, 2011, 07:58:00 Quote Report to Moderator
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It has been far to long ago... Now there are updates!

Thanks for all the advice, help and good compliments!
@ Garry, This is far to long ago... But I've checked the spring rate. At the back it is 120 lb's. Front I cannot find.
@ Peter, I am so addicted to the car and colour.. I thought to spray my arm the very same yellow! In fact it is a sort of marcos tattoo  .

The car! The last pictures were from the spray and a few small other bits. In more than a year there has been quite some new stuff. The engine bay now has a green stripe (same as engine and cage). By the rear and of the cage is fitted and only needs to bolt it through the body. The fuel tank is lying under the cage and fits perfect now. It wass quite a job to get the rear van lights good in possition.. Measuring measuring etc etc.. Then drill the holes and file the to the right size. The radiator is a very think aluminium version of a golf 3, because the in and outlet are on the same side and a good cooling capacity. The radiator hangs in home made brackets with rubber shocks (with thanks to G-J!)  

The next step was to put the engine in. The engine was lifted up and the car was pushed under. It was tricky to get it in without damaging the engine bay. But it did go well. In a few hours I had the drive shafts and engine mounts in place. The job of dressing up the engine was begon. An oil cooler with thermostate switch was added. This only fits just, and sits in a quite unusual place I think.. There was just not enough room elsewere without chopping some big holes in the car. The pedal box, clutch and brake master were put in place. Now it was time to do something with the dashboard.. To get the dashboard to fit with the front section of the cage, some holes needed to be cut. And this is not a German car so measuring was not quite an option. After the cutting I wanted to strengthen the dash by laminating some wood panels in. This worked very well and made the das a stiffer. Then it was time to spray it, sprayed with a layer of 2k epoxy to get a good bond, afer that a lot of layers spray filler. After sanding I finished it with 2k semi gloss black (ral 9005, ~70% gloss). The window vents come from a MG B and fits perfect. All the room in the middle was used for gauges so I needed a new spot for the switches. This was done by putting an aluminium panel in place.

The fuel pump was next. Because the fuel pump is at the back of my seat and I didn't want to be covered in fuel when it would be leaking (you never know). So I bought an aluminium casing were I carefully made a hole in it and put a yellow piece of persplex in it  . The fuel pump is now in the casing standing on rubber shocks. The fuel line is in place. I made some side windows but didn't want to use the original push down system.. So I bougth a sliding kit and made a hole in the window. It fits very good and works well. The wiring loom had to be made.. (still working on this one). I bougth a ready to use panel with all the fuses and relays already on it. (not that far so will update about this later on this year). Also made a 3rd brake light, mounted on the cage. Made an alloy bracket to support it (this was when it was christmas and your not allowed to do anything but socialize... sneaked to the garage  ). I will post some pictures.

If anyone has questions or wants photos.. just ask here or email me!

Cheers,

Joost



















































Here you can see a piece of headlining. Perforated alcantara.


Custom made car cover, including roundels, same wide stripe and stitched mini marcos logo.


Last modified July 19th, 2011, 08:04:53 by Joost van Dien
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Nick Harland
Posted on: April 7th, 2012, 22:02:32 Quote Report to Moderator
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seriously ive been watching out for your updates on facebook but this is awesome!! really great work here!
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AK
Posted on: January 11th, 2013, 14:05:06 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi, is it a new Dashboard ? And if it's right where are you bought it ??
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: January 12th, 2013, 12:18:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi all,

Ak; Welcome to the forum. (haven't been online since a long time). Yes the dashboard is a new item. Rae Davis has the mould for it and can supply you one. But beware, the man is ghost. I ordered a dashboard for a mate about 10 months ago. The was going to make 2 dashboards and I haven't heard from him since. So I try to contact hem from time to time, via email and phone, but nothing. This was the same with my dashboard. Took me 5 months to get it here. So eventually you will have a dashboard but it will take time. His website is: http://www.raedavisracing.com/
Try to ring him on both numbers 5 times a day and send him a few emails. I hope you can contact him! Good luck!

It has been a will since I last updated this tread. I am very very busy with school. Went back to school after a year of work. Now learning for mechanical engineering. This is the reason my cars are a bit behind and the thread as well.. Some of you can sometimes see an update on facebook. But now there will be an update, at last!!

The last updates are more about interior and engine. Done all the electrics on the car. Was an absolute pain in the donkey... But its now working all with 2 small things to fix. The engine has all the coolant hoses in place. Same for the oil cooler hoses. Mounting the engine was a bit of a problem. I didn't want to use the top engine steady (thermostat housing to bulkhead). It is a big lumpy thing and not pretty. I went for the Kad top and gearbox steady's. So no need for the thermostat engine steady. But when you have a Kad engine steady it's not nice to use the standard fixing brackets on the bulkhead and engine. So I made them myself out of alloy. Takes some time but then you have something to look at. Exhaust was another bit to get sorted. Since the marcos mk1/2/3 is a bit longer than a saloon and smaller than an estate, you cannot by an exhaust off the shelf. With the maniflow lm004ss installed and the playmini damper on the back I could measure the link pipe. Went to a small company in Belgium that makes exhausts. The man made me a link pipe and it fits perfect. No need to weld or grind with this one...

Well for the people don't know, it has been sprayed!  . It was still in the spray filler so I needed to sand it down first. Bought myself a mirka electric sander and began with the dusty job of sanding and flattening out a few areas. Sanding it with grid 320 on the machine. After that grid 500 by hand. Took another 2 days to get it right. Constant looking with a flash light to be sure there were no coarse marks of the 320.

After that it was time for spraying. Well, not really spraying but prepare for it. Took me around half a day to mask of the car. At this point you realize the marcos has some really funny angles. With the masking done I could degrease the car. Degreased it 2 times with oil based degreaser and 2 times with a water based to get any sweat marks off. Time to spray! I sprayed the whole car myself except for the very last layer. After that it was time to wait a few days and pick the car up.

I waited weeks before working on the car. I wanted the paint to be really dried. It was time to fix the small bits. The windows, doors, headlamps etc could go in.
I think I have written enough for now . Pictures tell the rest. I have more pictures so if anybody wants a close up, send me an email.


Before the last cables were fixed


Interior by now


Coolant hoses


Another one, take in the wheel arch


Kad top steady with alloy bracket


Other side of the bracket


Oil cooler bracket


Exhaust system


Bonnet release mechanism. The bonnet can open normally but it can be taken out as well.


Sanding starts




Preparing


After the last layer


Bonnet


The doors




With its suit




Brakes lights are working


Window fitted




The MB's with Kad 4 pot. At last a wheel that has good clearance


Last picture take from the car, last week.

Cheers,
Joost van Dien




Last modified January 12th, 2013, 12:23:53 by Joost van Dien
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AK
Posted on: January 13th, 2013, 20:02:35 Quote Report to Moderator
Baby Member







Location: le Mans FRANCE
Posts: 35
Thanks So much for this information, i try to contact him soon, and wait and see.
Congratulation for all your job on the Marcos and good luck for your engineer study ...
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AK
Posted on: January 24th, 2013, 22:37:20 Quote Report to Moderator
Baby Member







Location: le Mans FRANCE
Posts: 35
On more time ,thank you so much for this contact, i mail him, 2 days ago and he answerd me quickly, and i find a Dashboard for my MM...
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