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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 16,034 views)
Graham Bichard
Posted on: December 6th, 2011, 21:18:01 Quote Report to Moderator
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Yep - should have added, there are three fuel pipes (feed, return and charcoal) on the passenger side, the rear brake pipe goes down the drivers side currently (and probably the battery cables eventually).  When I get back to the UK I´ll mock up the loom in the ´high´position to try and illustrate what I meant - a picture paints a thousand words and all that....
I´ve got no problem extending the wires where required, but really don´t fancy the idea of stripping the loom down.  Hopefully it won´t come to that.
It would make the bulkhead area look much better to run the front loom on the interior side of the bulkhead, especially as there is an engine loom to fit in the front too (and a small rear loom as well!), but the more I look at the MPi engine bay the more I realise Rover must´ve had a ´chuck it in´attitude too  

ETA the &#180 must be a peculiarity of a Norwegian keyboard!  Luckily the "Aass" beer tastes ok  
Oh, and I already have some P clips.

Last modified December 6th, 2011, 21:20:26 by Graham Bichard
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: December 8th, 2011, 21:42:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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As you know, I used the MPI loom as well. Mostly it fitted nicely, but I didn't have enough reach for the speedo. It's best not to look in the glovebox or under the dash either - I couldn't get the loom to look nice after I spliced it about!
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admin
Posted on: December 11th, 2011, 09:23:08 Quote Report to Moderator
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When I (re)wired my cars I connected the speedo unit via a 9-pin plug and socket so I can easily remove the whole thing if it needs attention. I used the two orange lamps for left and right indicators as I have a separate big oil pressure light on the dashboard.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 8th, 2012, 12:37:19 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi All! Happy New Year!
Just a quick up date.  I've spent the morning clearing out the shed and garage and made a bit of progress (I'll post a photo later), but I did come across a pair of the rubber gaskets that fit between the body and the headlight bowls on the mini.
Do you fit these to the MM too?

ETA Just realised my explanation wasn't too clear.  The bowls I have, have a thin rubber ring which fits around the outer edge of the bowl (on the body side of the bowl).  From the mini I have a thicker rubber ring which has extension pieces which push into/through the holes in the bodywork that the adjusting screws fit into.  Are these interchangable?  Supplimentry? Or is the thinner one just a cheap,modern interpritation of the thicker more substantial item?

Last modified January 8th, 2012, 13:43:48 by Graham Bichard
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admin
Posted on: January 8th, 2012, 17:01:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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Yes. Fit the proper wide gaskets for three reasons:
1. They protect the backs of the adjusting screws so they don't get encrusted with road dirt;
2. They take up any unevenness in the fibreglass;
3. They space the bowls off the fibreglass and protect the outer chrome trims.
This is more important with the steel bowls than with plastic ones but you might as well fit the gaskets you have.
The thin rubber rings are unlikely to do much good unles the holes in the fibreglass have been cut accurately.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 8th, 2012, 17:35:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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Yes, I definitely will use one of them - I agree with you the old style will probably be more robust (it was a thread on another site regarding the state of 'new' rubber components which got me thinking about these old style ones when I came across them). A picture paint a thousand words - the old ones have the adjuster screw covers:

Other things I've been doing:

It was looking for the handbrake pins for the radius arms that set me off sorting out the shed!  Did I find them.... not a chance!
And I decided that there'd been enough beating about the bush - and I'll copy the MPi (which failed its MOT yesterday, partly because of the new MOT rules) wiring, that is, whatever's inside the bulkhead will go inside the bulkhead, whatever's engine side will stay engine side.  Trying to make it look as neat as possible, this is the result (not finished of course):
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 10th, 2012, 21:03:54 Quote Report to Moderator
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It doesn't look too bad does it?

I made up some brackets for the relays and the cut-out switch.  Looking at the mini's bulkhead most of the MM's bulkhead is going to be fitted with brackets!
Right - engine loom next:

And I've got a new steering column bracket to get fabricated then with the column in place, I'll look at tidying up the under dash wiring and then the rear loom.  
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: January 11th, 2012, 20:42:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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What brakes are you using Graham? Just with only 600kg's I'd be tempted to bin the servo. I fitted Minisport 4 pots on 7.9" disks, and the the brakes are more powerful, and easier to modulate than my 7.5' S disc's ever were on my servo'd CE. Even my wife (who struggle in the CE) has said how much better/easier they are...

Looking V Good tho
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 11th, 2012, 20:47:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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So - who's idea was it to fit an injection motor?  

This is following the MPi cable cable runs.  I've also got the fuel/charcoal cannister connection cable tied in there (near side inner wing).
Now a request - could someone post a picture of the OSF inner wing position, like this:

I'm wondering if this is a viable position for the ecu:

To be honest, the ecu's so big I don't think there'll be much choice!
And before you start thinking how untidy that all is (and I'd have to agree), this is my guide:

Just as Rover intended  
So the question is, do I try and fix the engine loom in position, or just use cable ties for temporary fixing until after the engines in place?

Last modified January 11th, 2012, 20:48:58 by Graham Bichard
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: January 11th, 2012, 23:49:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello, cable ties, you may have to move the loom around to get the engine in for the dummy build.

Have you got a thumb missing?

And then fit an HIF44 SU....

Last modified January 11th, 2012, 23:50:34 by Peter Bremner
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 12th, 2012, 21:54:44 Quote Report to Moderator
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Matt, I've got metro 4 pot calipers and vented discs fitted on the subframe at the minute.  I have heard that this set up can lead to some interesting handling, but if that's the case when the cars on the road (Ha ha ha... is it Apr 1st all ready?) I've got a full 8.4 solid disc, twin pot set up waiting.
If it turns out the servo didn't work I'll consider ditching it, but I'd rather keep it for now.

I found out some intersting info from the guys on the mini cooper register forum, the engine loom was assembled onto the engine before the engine/subframe was offered up to the shell.  That makes sense, given that 'time is money' on a production line, so I'm going to give that a try, nearer the time.  What I will do in the engine bay is see if I can fabricate a bracket to hold the ecu in the osf inner wing position and permanently position the fuel/charcoal junction on the NSF inner wing.

Tonight I've had a go at tidying up the under dash wiring, mounting the fuse box at the right hand end of the lower dash rail.  It looks quite neat. I think it's compliant with the IVA (every time I look at it I interpret it differently  ) and I've laid out the rear section of the loom.
I now need to clean out the interior (I like things to be tidy - the missus says I've got OCD, everywhere but in the house!), put the rear loom in place, then I really will need to find something that I can lift the shell onto, about 12-18" high, just enough to get underneath to put things like the fuel tank in, be able to mount battery cables in, but not so high that it'll be too difficult to offer up the subframe.  Still looking for something suitable.
I may be visiting a place tomorrow with work, that'll be able to fabricate the steering column bracket.
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Craig Smith
Posted on: January 12th, 2012, 22:08:46 Quote Report to Moderator
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For what it's worth, I'm putting my ECU inside the car.  

Granted I am fitting a completely different engine, and Nissan mounted the ECU under the dash in the Micra but I can't help thinking that keeping it out of the engine bay is a very sensible idea?
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: January 13th, 2012, 09:51:19 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Craig Smith, posted January 12th, 2012, 22:08:46 at here
For what it's worth, I'm putting my ECU inside the car.  




I agree - but wouldn't fancy re-wiring the MPI loom to extend it that far!
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 15th, 2012, 20:36:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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You're absolutely right Matthew - I don't really fancy cutting and splicing to extend that pair of cables!
I haven't had electric since last night, so have been limited in what I've been able to do:

Fuse box with cover on.  I'll get around to modifying this one day to cover the exposed bit.

Rad grill cut to size and placed in.  This needs to be secured, but for now is just sitting in front of the rad.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 18th, 2012, 21:46:42 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Peter Bremner, posted January 11th, 2012, 23:49:21 at here

And then fit an HIF44 SU....



Peter - that's sooo 20th centuary  

Tonight I've fitted the charcoal cannister:

Tucked up nice and high in the NSF wheel arch.
And mounted up the emissions kit in the engine bay:


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