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Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc (currently 26,266 views) |
Graham Bichard |
Posted on: April 1st, 2013, 12:30:53 |
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Maximum Member2
Posts: 751
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The sun's out, temperature is in the +ve. Anything to get out of doing the electrics I offered the engine up to the subframe. I needed to grind bavk a bit of the seam welding around the engine mounts but in the end it slid in:
Is there an easy way to fit the pot joints into the diff housing?
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Stuart |
Posted on: April 1st, 2013, 16:30:05 |
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Big Member
Location: Peak District Posts: 284
Reputation: 1 (tot: 1) |
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Is there a C-clip on that output shaft? |
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Reply: 196 - 599 |
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Neil KilBane |
Posted on: April 1st, 2013, 21:30:20 |
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Maximum Member2
just a little fine tuning left to do.
Location: Newtown Forbes, Ireland Posts: 1,414
Reputation: 0 (tot: ) |
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Give it a smack with a Soft mallet on the end of the drive shaft.
The C clip gives it resistance to a point but then it just slips into place. |
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Reply: 197 - 599 |
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admin |
Posted on: April 1st, 2013, 21:32:20 |
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Administrator
Location: Maidenhead, UK Posts: 2,376
Reputation: 1 (tot: 1) |
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Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted April 1st, 2013, 12:30:53 at here |
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Is there an easy way to fit the pot joints into the diff housing?
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Just whack them with a rubber mallet. Once you get the circlip into the pot joint it should go quite easily. |
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Reply: 198 - 599 |
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Graham Bichard |
Posted on: April 2nd, 2013, 19:04:45 |
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Maximum Member2
Posts: 751
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A big (rubber) hammer it is then! |
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Reply: 199 - 599 |
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Graham Bichard |
Posted on: May 5th, 2013, 18:49:20 |
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Maximum Member2
Posts: 751
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Okay, so the shell is ready to be lifted onto the engine/subframe but hows best to do that? What I mean is, while I have two big strong nephews who can help me out I don't want them to end up with the bad back I'm suffering from at the minute. Is there a way I could lift the shell with an engine hoist (for example. I have one of those!) which would make the task easier?
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Reply: 200 - 599 |
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Peter Bremner |
Posted on: May 5th, 2013, 19:55:59 |
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Big Member
Location: Ongar, Essex Posts: 410
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Hello, I'm being picky, everything else looks so good, are you going to give the lump a lick of paint and an alloy rocker cover? |
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Reply: 201 - 599 |
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Matthew Payne |
Posted on: May 5th, 2013, 21:22:03 |
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Medium Member
Location: Bawdeswell, Norfolk Posts: 105
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Graham... You haven't got windows or trim in... Just get them to grab a wheel arch each and it'll be fine. Popped mine over with my dads help just a fortnight ago. The only thing that makes it easier is being taller (which Im not).
Your car is looking good BTW! |
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Reply: 202 - 599 |
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Matthew Payne |
Posted on: May 5th, 2013, 21:23:24 |
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Medium Member
Location: Bawdeswell, Norfolk Posts: 105
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Oh, just realised that I cant see if the back wheels are on? |
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Reply: 203 - 599 |
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Graham Bichard |
Posted on: May 6th, 2013, 12:36:25 |
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Maximum Member2
Posts: 751
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Peter, I'm after fitting the engine/subframe so that I can work out where the coolant hoses and electric cables will go through the bulkhead. I don't want to 'guess' incorrectly. I'll be looking to rebuild the engine prior to final fitment, but as the body will have to come off again I was wondering if there was an easy way, ideally one which I could do by myself. Matthew - yes there are back wheels fitted so I guess I'll do as you say, get my nephews to give me a hand lifting it over.
(This is all a big diversion to stop me thinking about doing the electrics anymore by the way! Not that I think I'm fooling anyone (except myself( ) |
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Reply: 204 - 599 |
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Peter Bremner |
Posted on: May 7th, 2013, 21:49:38 |
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Big Member
Location: Ongar, Essex Posts: 410
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Hello, my lump was in and out like a yo-yo, I always dropped mine in from the top, but, most of the front panel had been cut away.
Wiring: take your time, use a simple continuity tester or a voltmeter, use crimped Lucar terminals and bullets (I also soldered mine) and relays for heavy duty stuff. I also included in my loom extra wires to the coil (in case I fitted a rev limiter) and also to the rear (in case of extra lights). I fitted a bolt to one of the dash supports to act as a central earth and then took a big fat lead to the engine and one to the battery earth.
Once you've sussed that the indicator warning light earths through the other bulbs and that the horn is permanently live and earths through the horn push you'll be well away... |
Last modified May 7th, 2013, 21:50:28 by Peter Bremner |
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Reply: 205 - 599 |
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jimnaylor |
Posted on: May 8th, 2013, 18:39:00 |
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Big Member
Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 222
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You can easily lift the front of the car with a hoist, it weighs next to nothing without the engine, or if you have a decent sized jack and it's a rod change, you can jack it up from the floor just behind the front bulkhead (spread the load with a bit of wood). The car goes up at an alarming angle but its high enough to get the subframe in and quite stable. I've done it both ways, either is a one man job, and you can control the body as it comes down, just in case something is in the wrong place. |
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Reply: 206 - 599 |
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Grant Wilson |
Posted on: May 9th, 2013, 16:01:22 |
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Big Member
LeMans -- 2016
Location: Dumfries, South West,Scotland Posts: 364
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I raise my car on large lumps of wood placed before the rear wheels. I place 2 old wheels with more wood under the back of the car .
I have made a strap that lifts from the top and spreads the weight between engine steady,steering rack and the front lip of the engine bay...I then lift it with engine crane with ease.
it rocks on the wood infront of wheels then weight moves to rear of car....not had a problem doing it this way and it has been in and out ( and shaken all about) several times.
good luck
Grant. |
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Reply: 207 - 599 |
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Graham Bichard |
Posted on: May 20th, 2013, 18:57:00 |
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Maximum Member2
Posts: 751
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Why won't it fit!!! Okay - two strong helpers and it wasn't to bad, but the subframe holes wouldn't line up. I have a theory and some photo's to help but would like your thoughts before I progress.
The subbie was about 1/2 or 3/4" too far forward. There appeared to be clearance between the subbie and the bulkhead:
This picture was taken looking behind the front left wheel and attempts to show the clearance (not too clear I appreachiate).
I did wonder if the injection fuel lines were holding it proud, but there was sufficient movement in the pipes to convince me this wasn't the case. There was scuff marks on the subframe when we removed it again to show where we'd moved them about:
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Last modified May 20th, 2013, 19:00:18 by Graham Bichard |
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Reply: 208 - 599 |
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Graham Bichard |
Posted on: May 20th, 2013, 19:07:20 |
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Maximum Member2
Posts: 751
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Photobucket playing up:
(Marks from fuel lines being wiggled) |
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Reply: 209 - 599 |
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