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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 16,329 views)
admin
Posted on: March 26th, 2011, 08:29:49 Quote Report to Moderator
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I'd agree with that. The screen should pop out at one of the top corners first. Run a blunt knife round the screen on both sides to break the seal. Apply gentle pressure on the inside of the screen, but take it slowly and ease the screen out gently.

The small wheelboxes go with the wire-wound wiper motor which has a square section body. The larger boxes go with the permanent magnet motor which has a round body. There are versions with different numbers of teeth as well as different main gears for the motor unit so you may need do a bit of trial and error to get the sweep right. I lkie the single wiper idea using a Metro arm.
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jimnaylor
Posted on: March 26th, 2011, 18:03:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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The earlier wiper boxes were 22 tooth whereas the usual ones are 32 tooth, so the blades travel way further with a later wiper motor - definately the box to have with a single wiper - both use the same cable so no problems there. Mini Spares amongst others sell them but they are about twice the price of the usual ones. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=33220&title=
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: March 31st, 2011, 14:25:09 Quote Report to Moderator
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Nothing further to report (should get some time on the car next week), just an observation - when I did sit in the car last week, I sat centrally in the drivers seat 'channel', and the steering column is definitely sitting towards the centre of the car!
Doing a search shows some have used a UJ on the column - is this to overcome the offset problem?
Does the seat mount vertically on the right hand side, and horizontally on the left (i.e. attached to the top of the transmission tunnel) therefore positioned more to the centre of the car?
It just seems odd, thats all  
Lee did you have to cut the hole for the rack to poke through into the cabin?  It could've been cut in the wrong place I suppose (steering arms look to be equal on each side (not very scientific that though!).

Last modified March 31st, 2011, 14:28:03 by Graham Bichard
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Lee Pashley
Posted on: March 31st, 2011, 20:34:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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The holes were pre cut from heritage on mine.My steering wheel is off set to the center of the car too ,you soom get use to it ,I don"t even notice now.I looked at moving the coluum more to right but decided not to because I thought it better to leave the coluum standard for the IVA .
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admin
Posted on: March 31st, 2011, 21:07:14 Quote Report to Moderator
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Son't you need to have a collapsible column for the IVA? I thought you could use an energy-absorbing collapsible boss or a couple of UJs in the shaft. You don't need a UJ otherwise.

The front subframe mountings are slightly offset to one side (unless Rory has corrected the jigs, which I doubt) so you'll find that the track rod end adjustments are different each side or you have more lock one side than the other.

The seats should face straight ahead. The Mini steering column is always at a slight angle like that, but as Lee says you don't notice it after a bit. I don't understand what you mean by the seat mount. The seat runners just bolt onto the floor, but you might want to raise them a bit so that the runners slide over the carpet (if you're trimming the interior).
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 1st, 2011, 16:41:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Lee, Richard.  An offset wheel it is then.
Which does mean I won't have to woory about the seat (or my poor description of how I thought about mounting it  )
And I'm pretty certain that the collapsable element is integral (internal) to the column.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 4th, 2011, 07:44:06 Quote Report to Moderator
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Bit of a change of plan - got the frame built for my shed yesterday.  Now got 300m of shiplap board to creosote for the walls, so not much will get done on the car this week I fear!

I think my mother's dreaming of getting her garage back already  
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: April 4th, 2011, 07:50:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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How you gonna get the Marcos in? Or are you also fitting bi-folding doors to the lounge?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 4th, 2011, 14:10:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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What?  You mean it won't fit  
I'm just looking forward to sorting the garage out so it can be a useful working space again.
Actually, if I can keep the shed organised and set it up as a clean area, it may well become the engine build area (once the power's in, alarms on etc etc).
So much to do!
At least if it doesn't rain too hard, I can treat the timber undercover!
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 6th, 2011, 19:45:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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So - does this look about right?

I hope so 'cause its been a right pain in the backside to do!
However, one step forward, one step back....
See the stripped thread?

I moved the servo to fit the damper mount and when I took the nut off, the spring washer nearly launched the nut!  From the rust on the stud its been like that for a while.
Another picture of it:

Is the plate that has the studs (for the servo and reservoir) replaceable?  Or should I try and cut a smaller thread?  
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Allan Brown
Posted on: April 6th, 2011, 20:05:18 Quote Report to Moderator
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Those threads are welded to the pedal box.
I wouldn't cut a smaller thread, the last thing you want is for those threads to break or strip whilst breaking hard, you will lose all your brakes then.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 6th, 2011, 21:00:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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Ahh, that makes sense (never taken a pedal box out before).  So - new pedal box, or is drilling out and a (lock) nut and bolt an option Allan?
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Stuart
Posted on: April 7th, 2011, 07:25:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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You could get a new bolt/stud welded onto your pedal-box
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 1st, 2011, 20:51:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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Well, the sheds still not finished - deceided I couldn't wait any longer and rearranged the garage as best I could to at least get something done!
So started to build up the rear subframe:

I was going to put the radius arms on, but think it might be easier to mount the subframe as it is (lighter, yes?) and put the arms on later.  I can then build up the radius arms with the back plates on the bench too.
ETA  Whats the thread that will hold the rear adjustable brackets to the subframe - the vertical ones (screwed in form below) look around 3/8", the horizontal ones, smaller.  Also the plates which fit either end of the radius arm pin have a cannular set in them (offset on one), which goes on which end?
Richard, you mentioned earlier in this thread that you couldn't make out the handbrake cable bracket, yes?  By this are you referring to a small bracket on the underside of the subframe front crossbeam (sort of an elongated 'n' shape)?
As you can see, I've had the radius arms bearings reamed out.

Taking a leaf out of Stuart's book:
Quoted from Stuart, posted April 7th, 2011, 07:25:22 at here
You could get a new bolt/stud welded onto your pedal-box


I took off the pedal box - I've got some 8mm stud bar left over which should be suitable (there'll be a nice mix of metric & imperial by the end of the build) and I've been told of a fabricator not too far away who I'll have a chat with, but tonight's question is:  Should the plate which mounts on the engine side of the bulkhead (which has the brake actuating rod through it in this picture) be flat?  Mine is slightly bent on one corner (hope the picture shows this) and seems as if the two plates are pulling apart.

If it's meant to be like that I'll just clean it up ready for reassembly.


Last modified May 1st, 2011, 20:55:58 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 5th, 2011, 20:41:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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Didn't realise there was such a colour as 'McLaren Orange', but it does look bloody good!
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/g.....3163%3B310k#topicTop
Hope mine turns out that good  
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