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  Author    MK6 #600009  (currently 7,782 views)
Brian
Posted on: July 29th, 2013, 03:56:55 Quote Report to Moderator
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Spent the day at the storage unit, got everything organized, took inventory, and moved stuff around. No pictures today, but I'll get some more up soon.

Also, I wanted to test out whether I can do some work at the storage unit, and it seems to be doable. So, in the next few days, I'll spend some time mounting my toolbox securely into the back of my van...that way, I can either back it into the driveway at home or back it up to the storage for working on stuff.
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Brian
Posted on: July 31st, 2013, 06:34:41 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've started mounting the brakes on the front and rear; ran into a few issues you guys might have input on:

On the front wheel bearings, the kit comes with a small metal sleeve per side. Since I am putting this together from scratch, I don't have anything to compare to, and I can’t figure out where the sleeve goes. Between the workshop manual, haynes book, nd parts diagram from minispares.com, I still can't figure it out.

The piece in question is the bottom right ring in this picture:


If it's too small, you can see the same image at: [url]http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Drivetrain/Wheel bearings/GHK1140.aspx[/url]


Last modified July 31st, 2013, 06:36:14 by Brian
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Brian
Posted on: July 31st, 2013, 06:53:14 Quote Report to Moderator
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Second problem of the day. This one may not be a problem until later, but I need to start on it now:

So, I ordered aluminum rear radius arms from KAD. But I mistakenly ordered the ones with 1/2" damper pin rather than 3/8". My shocks have a 3/8" hole in the bushing, as do, I believe, all normal mini ones. I have a few potential avenues, I'd prefer not to ship these both ways across the sea to replace them, and I've already got them on the subframe, so they're no longer "new"...

1) the preferred is to buy a 3/8 shaft from kad and have it pressed in locally. I'm checking with them, but they didn't mention this option in our emails yesterday (the time difference is tough).

2) kad did suggest reaming out the center of the bushing. But reaming that out to .5" would make that center metal piece almost nonexistent.

3) i can try to find a local machine shop to turn the shaft down and retap it for 3/8". Pretty expensive and not so elegant.

4) i can try to find different bushings for the shocks. But most seem to be either 3/8 or 5/8 and i see none in between. The outer diameter of the current bushing is around. 8" so the rubber would be pretty small.

Ideas?  
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: July 31st, 2013, 09:58:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Quoted from Brian, posted July 31st, 2013, 06:34:41 at here
I've started mounting the brakes on the front and rear; ran into a few issues you guys might have input on:

On the front wheel bearings, the kit comes with a small metal sleeve per side. Since I am putting this together from scratch, I don't have anything to compare to, and I can’t figure out where the sleeve goes. Between the workshop manual, haynes book, nd parts diagram from minispares.com, I still can't figure it out.

The piece in question is the bottom right ring in this picture:


If it's too small, you can see the same image at: [url]http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Drivetrain/Wheel bearings/GHK1140.aspx[/url]





Somerford Mini's website is a good source for info like this, they have exploded diagrams of all parts.

https://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/index.php?main_page=page&id=49


 

Last modified July 31st, 2013, 09:58:46 by Neil KilBane
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Brian
Posted on: July 31st, 2013, 21:56:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cool, thanks. That site has much better pictures than I had found! I need to print out those PDFs when I get home.

As for the radius arm issue...I'm going to be ordering new stub axles from kad, which I can press in...The eye that holds the bushing is just too small to reasonably fit any larger pins, and the new stubs are cheaper than different shocks (if I can find some).
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MPlayle
Posted on: July 31st, 2013, 23:05:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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As indicated in the diagrams, the piece of the bearing set in question is a spacer that goes inside the hub between each of the bearings.  It helps carry the CV joint/stub-axle in the hub and bearings.

Check to be sure the spacer fits through the outer bearing races.  Install the outer races, pack and fit the inner bearing and seal, pack the hub with some grease, insert the spacer, pack and install the outer bearing, put the drive flange in place, insert the CV through the hub and hand set the hub nut to hold it all together while installing on the suspension.
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Brian
Posted on: August 9th, 2013, 01:57:20 Quote Report to Moderator
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Been traveling, so no real updates lately, but a few small things:
* I was able to but replacement stub axles for the rear radius arms, with the correct 3/8 pin it should be waiting for me when I get home tomorrow.
* marcos garage had a small box to ship to me, and asked if I needed anything else. Being worried about working on the fiberglass, I asked for some scraps, gelcoated any color. They had some spare of my color, so they are making me a few panels I can practice on before getting to the car!
* i had been having a tough time with the haynes book and the orange workshop manual, telling you how to disassemble, but to "reassemble in reverse" -- the disassemble didn't always say what order or location things were in. However, I found that I also had and forgotten about a Rover Service Manual, which seems a fair bit more comprehensive for my purposes, with better exploded diagrams...

That's it for now...I hope to get the suspensions and brakes fully on the subframes next week...
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Brian
Posted on: August 12th, 2013, 19:11:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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I'm getting pretty close to the point where I'm going to need to flip the car over to do work on fuel, brake, and battery lines.

Anyone have any tricks for that? I can't see a good way to get a rotisserie in there. The manual suggests having 4 people flip it, though I'm having a hard time imagining what they'll hold on, to.

Also, they recommend flipping it onto axle stands...those must be very high axle stands, they would need to be at least a few feet tall to go from the inside of the engine bay/back of the load floor, past the roof.

I'm tentatively considering making a pair of small sawhorses, and using those. I'll probably bolt one to the front subframe suspension towers, so that it flips over with the car. The rear one would need to be rested through the rear window.

Any better ideas? Or am I overthinking this?
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admin
Posted on: August 14th, 2013, 21:10:53 Quote Report to Moderator
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I think you need to use some lengths of wood to support the floor of the car from the inside (i.e. one end on the garage floor and the other end on the floor of the shell) to take the weithg off the roof and A pillars. To work on the underside it may be easier to roll the shell onto one side on a couple of mattresses. You'll still need to prop it up but the sides will be stronger than the roof.
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Brian
Posted on: August 14th, 2013, 21:17:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from admin, posted August 14th, 2013, 21:10:53 at here
I think you need to use some lengths of wood to support the floor of the car from the inside (i.e. one end on the garage floor and the other end on the floor of the shell) to take the weithg off the roof and A pillars. To work on the underside it may be easier to roll the shell onto one side on a couple of mattresses. You'll still need to prop it up but the sides will be stronger than the roof.



Oh yeah, I wasn't very clear with it. That's the plan. Sawhorses to the inside floor, through the rear window. And another sawhorse in the engine compartment, near where the subframe towers come up.
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: August 14th, 2013, 23:24:59 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello, when I flipped mine over, I rolled it onto its side on the lawn then my brother and I picked the shell up and placed it on two plastic saw horses, positioned by my wife. We still managed to drop it but no damage. I wouldn't fix the saw horse on before flipping it over, the legs will describe one hell of an arc and you'll need to be 8 foot tall!

I know you don't have Screwfix, but these are the ones I used

http://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-folding-saw-horses/48735
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Brian
Posted on: August 15th, 2013, 00:08:30 Quote Report to Moderator
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Ok, cool. I think I've got it now.

The car is in a big concrete area, so no lawn to drop it on, but I'm planning to get a few locals to help me with the flip.

Thanks for the input!
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Brian
Posted on: August 19th, 2013, 18:27:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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After seeing Andy's question re: the pedal boxes, that reminds me that I will need to drill for my pedal boxes soon. What did you people do to get the holes to line up, and any tips getting the pedal box to come in straight?

I foresee making a cardboard template of the sizes of studs and the big holes for master cylinder plunger. But as for placement, the space where it could go is pretty small, but there's a bit of room for side to side motion, and front to back.
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Brian
Posted on: September 18th, 2013, 20:57:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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Haven't made much progress lately; I've been working on my other project. We just raced the '65 Corvair in the 24 Hours of LeMons (a junker car race here in the 'states). We had huge carb problems, etc, and had to do lots of improvisation, since the rules for that race strictly limit the cost of the car and all repairs to under $500 (something like 300GBP) (Safety equipment such as brakes, fuel lines, roll cage, etc don't count towards the limit).

5th, 6th, and 7th pictures here -- the blue penguin corvair:
http://blog.caranddriver.com/l.....0-and-a-55-chevolvo/

Anyways, I'm back to working on the MM. I should be picking up my engine in a few weeks. In the meantime, I'm finishing up the suspension and subframes. And preparing a shopping list for some of the things I'll need once the engine is here.

My next thought process is for fueling. I'm thinking an electric pump, and into a weber, I am aiming for 3psi. I'm thinking to get a 4-5 psi pump at the tank, then running that into a 3psi regulator right before the carb. I really need to lock myself into deciding between a normal truck/van fuel tank, or fitting a fuel cell. This choice will be a bit easier once I can get the shell flipped and make some measurements.

Anyone else out there running non-truck/van tanks in their MM's?
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Brian
Posted on: September 26th, 2013, 05:41:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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I haven't been posting many updates, because there hasn't been much exciting to see. Here are a few things, so far, though.

I've gotten the rear subframe assembled, except for brake plumbing/parking brake cables.

Since I was putting this subframe together from scratch, I ended up ordering the KAD aluminum rear radius arms. However, when I torqed the arm into it's swivel bracket, there was too much friction, and the arms took a fair bit of force to swing. After a bit of looking around, this is a common problem, and can be solved with shims on the shoulder of the pin. I found that a .005" spacer on each end of the pins worked perfectly for me -- no play, but still swing relatively freely.



And here's a radius arm installed:


After I got that in, I managed to get the rear brakes on (KAD disc brake set). I realized that I don't have one of the little brackets that supports the handbrake cable (). So, I need to wait until I can buy or make a suitable replacement before I can finish out the brake cabling.

It was too dark to get any decent pictures after I was done tonight; and I was in a hurry. The place I work on the car at has a strict 9pm curfew.

Tomorrow, i hope to have some more suitable pictures -- I have a couple guys coming over from the local mini forums to help me flip the shell over, so that I can prepare for installing the rear subframe, and run the fuel/brake lines.

Speaking of brake lines, my lines are going to be an interesting mix. The kad connectors look to be an-4 style fittings. The hoses I have are a mix of standard sae and an-4 fittings. I'm going to have several lines with different ends on each side. I'll be making all my hardlines to fit out of cunifer line. Between this and the other car projects I'm working on, it made sense to get a good flaring tool.
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