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What to look for ? (currently 2,331 views) |
Sam Gijsbrechts |
Posted on: September 14th, 2009, 06:59:15 |
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Baby Member
Posts: 9
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I am new to this Marcos thing, I have wanted one all the way back to my driving test ( 1980..... )
I have a Clubman 1972 race car, selling it would probably lose me a lot of money, so transferring its bits to a MM seems an option .
What are weak points to look for when buying a shell ( capillary rot in the GRP, rust on mounting points ............ )
Please let me know ( as I am well aware missing these points could turn a dream into a nightmare ) |
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admin |
Posted on: September 14th, 2009, 20:05:54 |
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Administrator
Location: Maidenhead, UK Posts: 2,377
Reputation: 1 (tot: 1) |
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Obviously look out for any large areas of crazing on the gelcoat which are laborious to put right. Check the fibreglass at the back of the floor panel where the front mountings of the rear subframe bolt on. Cracking can indicate that the steel inserts have rusted out. This isn't a big problem as you can hack all the rust out, re-glass the area and put a plate on the inside of the car to spread the load. The same applies to the front of the front subframe. The rusted steel can be removed from the inside of the nose section. There is no need for reinforcement at this point other than big washers.
The engine bulkhead cross-member is more critical but isn't generally a problem unles the bare shell has been left outside for a long time. The side plates where the front damper brackets bolt on tend to rust out particularly at the bottom of the inner wing. Again plenty of fibreglass is the best option. Steel inserts were used because some customers thought they might be safer with them in, but apart from where the front subframe towers bolt on they are more trouble than they are worth.
Basically, anything is repairable but a heavily crazed and damaged shell may not be woirth the effort.
One more thing - beware of a recently repainted shell. If you paint over gelcoat cracks without repairing them properly (see Mr. Dickens's book) the cracks will come through. |
Last modified September 14th, 2009, 20:08:36 by admin |
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Reply: 1 - 8 |
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Sam Gijsbrechts |
Posted on: September 27th, 2009, 17:53:17 |
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Baby Member
Posts: 9
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THanks , that is very helpful.
Well, I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for one ( though I might go down the GTM road because of the mid -engine layout......... HORROR )
I do prefer the MM mooks though.
So, if any body has a shell lying about without paperwork ..... let me now. |
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Reply: 2 - 8 |
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Phil Lockett |
Posted on: September 28th, 2009, 08:05:07 |
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Minimum Member
Location: Stoke Posts: 58
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Sam,
Where are you in the world?
If you go the GTM route I may be able to help. |
1983 GTM Coupe. Powered by Toyota 4A-GE. Siva Moonbug |
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Reply: 3 - 8 |
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Sam Gijsbrechts |
Posted on: October 6th, 2009, 06:13:37 |
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Baby Member
Posts: 9
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Quoted from Phil Lockett, posted September 28th, 2009, 08:05:07 at here |
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Sam,
Where are you in the world?
If you go the GTM route I may be able to help.
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Antwerp in belgium. |
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Reply: 4 - 8 |
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Sam Gijsbrechts |
Posted on: October 6th, 2009, 06:15:24 |
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Baby Member
Posts: 9
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A very important question : I went to see a body yesterday and the front has been transformed into a 1 piece front end to allow better access to the engine. ( No provisions for headlamps any more .... )
On a Mini this requires bracing,
What about that on a Marcos ? Is this a allowable change, should one make braces or should one steer clear of this car ( or glass in a new front)
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Reply: 5 - 8 |
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Allan Brown |
Posted on: October 6th, 2009, 19:23:07 Attachment: s8000290a.jpg - 96.49 KB (2398 views) |
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Administrator
Location: Billingshurst, UK Posts: 452
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Yes you do need to brace the front of the subframe the same as a mini.
This is how mine is done with a flip front. It might be worth putting the braces inside the inner wings as mine make the shock absorbers very close to the tyres. |
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Reply: 6 - 8 |
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Sam Gijsbrechts |
Posted on: October 7th, 2009, 05:29:20 |
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Baby Member
Posts: 9
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OK. This gives me an idea and puts my mind at rest .
IF I get lucky and obtain the body , may I ask for some more pics ? |
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Reply: 7 - 8 |
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admin |
Posted on: October 12th, 2009, 21:11:42 |
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Administrator
Location: Maidenhead, UK Posts: 2,377
Reputation: 1 (tot: 1) |
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There is one thing I should point out. The Mini subframe is designed to crumple in an impact, to protect the passenger space. OK, it's not much protection by today's standards but it's some. The subframe is bolted to the valence for rigidity - not so that one part supports the other.
If you put a very solid frame in to support the nose this will transfer the shock directly to the bulkhead. That's fine if you're racing and have a full roll cage with everything linked together, but for a road car make sure that the frame or bracing is sufficient to support the flip front, but that it will deform if you are unfortunate enough to have a head-on collision. |
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Reply: 8 - 8 |
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