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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 16,256 views)
Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 19th, 2012, 21:27:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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Deja vu?

It's a little higher than I'd like, but it'll let me mount the tank (which now needs modifying).  And it puts the rear panel at a better height for working on:

Offering up the chosen lights, although offset from the original holes, it looks like I'll be able to incorporate the existing holes (saving me from having to fill and redrill the panel):

I've got some research to do before cutting - I'm sure the brake lights need to be at least 10cm (from memory) from th efog light, which dictates the tail/brake lights will be in the upper position (I could move the brake/reverse lights but they're in quite a good position).
I'll be asking for your thoughts on cutting the holes (painted surface, offset hole to be incorporated, only a 76mm hole saw - need a 93mm hole etc) when I'm sure of the distances required  

ETA Quick question for Lee Pashley if he still passes this way!  Lee, didn't you say you'd placed your radio aerial in the sill?  Have you a picture of where/how big the hole is?  Did you run the rear loom through the sill too?  Did you use conduit?  If anyone else has any ideas, feel free to air them!
Didn't I read on here someone (sorry can't remember who) had filled the sill box sections with foam?  I've heard of this on race and rally cars back in the day when the shells used to wobble about, and wouldn't mind doing something similar on this (as well as perhaps adding a little strength/stiffness, it may provide a little sound insulation too).  What type of foam should be used for this?

Last modified January 19th, 2012, 21:35:32 by Graham Bichard
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: January 19th, 2012, 22:08:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Evening Graham

Just spotted this on Turbo Minis. About half way down the page it a picture of of a swirl pot on the underside of his Sabre Sprint - Might fit under the Marcos too?

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=358245&fr=50
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: January 19th, 2012, 22:52:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello, I used flexible electrical conduit from ScrewFix. I put a length in both sills, starting from inside the dash, down the A pillars and out just in front of the rear subframe mounts. Don't forget to put a length of rope through them to pull the cables through (I also pulled through another length of rope just in case).
I filled my sills with two pack foam, the sort you get from any glass fibre supplier. Make sure all the holes are taped over or you end up in a right mess. I also foamed up inside the A pillar at the same time. I made tubes of cardboard to protect the hinge stud area and filled through a hole in the top of the sill. Once I had poured, I quickly covered that hole with tape.
Good luck!
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admin
Posted on: January 19th, 2012, 23:10:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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If you have an automatic radio aerial the best place to fit it is on the rear ofside haunch behind the rear side window, with the bottom of the unit bolted to the back of the rear wheel arch. The cable can go through the sill. I said offside because it's further from the electrical fuel pump if ou have one.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 20th, 2012, 22:02:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Richard, I'm not looking to install an automatic aerial, and I'm trying to limit the number of holes I have to drill.
I was thinking about something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-.....327094679&sr=8-1
but mounted in the sill (Lee reckoned it worked quite well in that location).
But I don't want it rattling around, hence the conduit/foam questions (Thanks Peter - was it your thread I'd read?  I'll look into that next time I'm over at east coast fibreglass suppies).
I am right in thinking the sills are an enclosed box section, yes?

Not the best of pics, granted, but I can safely drill a hole in the front and rear, yes?
ETA I've checked and it is 100mm between stop lights and fog light.  I'll get the rear panel masked up and marked up.

Last modified January 20th, 2012, 22:04:11 by Graham Bichard
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admin
Posted on: January 21st, 2012, 17:35:37 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've had a 'rubber duck' aerial in the past - it was fitted to the Mini Jem. I wasn't impressed by its performance. You'd be better off with a telescopic aerial. It's one hole whatever you do.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 21st, 2012, 21:53:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Richard - I'll bear that in mind.
Matt - I've been in contact with Wil last year to discuss his fuel system set up.  He sent me that picture along with the electrical diagram of his system.  And I'm pretty sure it was Wil who suggested the solution I'm looking at adopting.  The swirl pot would be replaced by a shallow version of my fruit carton.  A small hole in the base of the tank:

I did think of putting a hole at the lowest point, but this may lead to an air gap occuring, so the other marker is an alternative position.  This would then be covered by a shallow pan:

It would of course be a better fit than my missus' cooking tray!  This in turn would have a feed to the fuel pump (with an in line filter before because of the position of the take off):

The original feed will then be the return.
I did think that offsetting the 'swirl pot' may offer a little more protection:

Do you think it'd work?
Tonights work has consited of:



Looking back at the Heritage demonstrator, I think these may be the same.  Not that that's a problem - its the look I was after  
Tomorrow is a tidy up and hoover of the garage.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 22nd, 2012, 12:51:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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After a quick clean up (hoover only - there's still orange/white dust covering everything!) I carried on, this time measuring up and fitting the number plate light:

It's a nice small unit with four LEDs, the outer two angled.  Measuring this up showed the variation of a hand made shell - the position which 'looked right' being a few mm different from the measured centre.  In the end I split the difference and I'm happy with the result.  I used an old number plate while measuring - this is the result:

I offered up the tank - I'll put a penny washer or fibre washer betweent he shell and the tank or else it looks as though it'll dig into the fibreglass:

This is the fuel cap I've chosen:

It's obviously smaller than the one which was offered up before (different pcd).  I had intended to manufacture a carbon fronted panel, cut out a circle and bond this into the recess, into which the fuel cap would be secured (a bit like the repair piece in John Dickems book (Pg 89) hides heat damage), but when I looked closer there is a crack apparent which extends beyound the recess lip.  Not sure if it'll be visible in this next photo (at the six o'clock position, extending from the hole):

What are the options for sorting that out?
Finally this morning I offered up the rear subframe front mount:

I was a little surprised that there appeared to be no reinforcement plate in the fibreglass at this point (don't know why, but I expected there to be one).  I presume there'll be no harm in making up a plate to go on the interior side of the bolts?  And I'll need longer bolts - mini items are obviously not the ones to use (looking down into the interior bins):

And can someone confirm the sills are box section?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 27th, 2012, 20:39:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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The fuel pump arrived through the post:

The protective sleeve is on now, and it looks good in the mount.
And now what should be a major milestone, but....
I offered up the rear subframe tonight.  But when it comes to fitting it properly, how the hell are you meant to tighten up the front trunnion pin/nut?

I notice the previous owner has made a small modification in order to ease fitment, but this has removed the gelcoat as well.  Another patch to touch up.
The other side seems to have a bit more space:

I know the rubber bushes have pulled out slightly - some washing up liquid will sort that.  But like I say, how do I tighten up the trunnion nuts (when I put them on!)?
Should they be tightened up before hand (won't that make lining them up difficult?)?
The rear trunnions weren't exactly easy to fit either, so I didn't tighten too much:


Again, I think when tightened up things will line up okay, but with the evidence of the front along with the rear I'd say the whole thing is slightly to one side (using the search button, this doesn't seem uncommon).
So, I know it roughly fits - the question is, how do I get it to fit properly (nuts tightened!)?
Oh, and I was able to confirm the tank will fitwith the subframe on - or at least it would if it wasn't for the rear left trunnion!

At least it will when I file the corner of the tank (rewelding if needed)!
Answers on a post card please  
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: January 28th, 2012, 11:53:20 Quote Report to Moderator
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Whats the general consensus on positioning the windscreen washer bottle?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 19th, 2012, 12:47:33 Quote Report to Moderator
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Spoke to Rory at Heritage the other day.  Apparently the way to mount up the rear subframe is to tighten the front trunnions in place, then offer up the subframe - if any subsequent alignment adjustment is required it's a case of drilling the hole in the outer body to allow fitting of the pin spanner, this then being fitted with a grommet afterwards.
I'd rather not have to drill the bodywork if possible (don't know if there are any pictures of Lee's (Pashley's) car showing if he had to do that?).
Hopefully I'll have a steering column bracket back next week (just in time for me to go away with work for a month!), and I've 'notched' the corner of the fuel tank to allow fitment of that with the subframe in place.
Guess I'd best get in the garage this afternoon and try and make best use of my time then  

Last modified February 19th, 2012, 17:11:26 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 19th, 2012, 17:07:07 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hmm... so, rear subframe, front trunnions tightened, subframe reinserted.  Next the rear mounts:


This is the rear left position.  The hole must be about 8mm out (too far forward for both).  The rear right isn't as far out, but still isn't lined up.
So the correct way of solving this, is to countersink the holes, fill with fibreglass and redrill, yes?  
If so, its subframe out again.

ETA Don't know if you can make it out in that first position, drilling the hole in a new 'correct' position will put it very close to the edge of the flat section onto which the subframe mounts.
Also should there be some sort of 'gasket' between the subframe trunnion mounts and the shell (I'm thinking of something like a thin layer of rubber sheet, to prevent fretting)?  Or is the rubber bushes sufficient to prevent this?
I wonder if this is why the car was sat for so long at Acespeed with no rear subframe fitted?

Last modified February 19th, 2012, 17:12:29 by Graham Bichard
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Matthew Payne
Posted on: February 19th, 2012, 17:55:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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Graham - Is the subframe you are using new? I'd be worried about re-drilling holes if there is even the slightest chance that it could actually be the frame and not the car!

I realise you have just tightened everything, then re-fitted it all... But how about loosening the rears off to get the trunnion bolts through, then re-tighten?

Nice DSN lightweight trunnions BTW
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 20th, 2012, 20:47:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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Matthew the subframe is a new, pattern part.  I did try and line everything up loosely fitted, as it were (the only bolts done up are the trunnion ones). (Perhaps I ought to try some string trigonometry on it)
I think I could get the rear right fitted, but I don't think I'd get the rear left anywhere near.
I don't really want to re-drill the holes but am thnking if I force the bolts into position and tighten them up it will put excessive pressure into the fibreglass.  Not sure what to do to be honest.
Yeah, the DSN stuff is pretty impressive - I only have the trunnions at present, but am sure I'll be getting some more of their products when money allows (I don't think they make an MPi engine steady yet though).
Anyway, ideas on a postcard, as they say!

Last modified February 20th, 2012, 20:48:40 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:25:55 Quote Report to Moderator
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Right, so lying under the car with the inspection light I finally discovered another use for the 'bent' end of a scriber.  It turns out that the upper edge of the LHS trunninon block wasn't sitting flush with the heel board.  So off came the subframe and yes, you can see where the top has been digging into the fibreglass:

Hopefully this shows up in these pictures - they were taken with the phone camera (the dog chewed the proper camera cable!)
So then I looked at the other side:

Hmm...
Out with the ruler, LHS lined up with the top centre of the lower hole it measures approximately 17mm until the ruler contacts the inside of the side panel:

RHS same position measures approximately 27mm:

Now looking directly under the 'sill level', the holes on the RHS is obviously inboard of the sill.  On the LHS the hole are further towards the outer edge of the car (does that make sense written down?).
This will obviously affect how far out the wheels will stick, but more importantly will this effect the subframe alignment?
The black coating on the heelboard only appears to be a mil or so thick, but does provide a nice clear face for the trunnion block to sit against.
So what are my options?  What do I do?

Last modified February 23rd, 2012, 21:27:36 by Graham Bichard
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