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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 16,421 views)
Lee Pashley
Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:27:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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Graham . I had to inlongate the rear mouting hole by a few mm , but they were not has far out has your looks ! I also had take the corner off the tank to miss the trunnion. probably  not much help to you !
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:37:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hiya Lee - I trust the cars running well?
Good to hear I'm not the first to encounter these problems!
Can I ask, did you drill the holes for the rear subframe or did Heritage put them in?
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Lee Pashley
Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:58:12 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cars in daily use & running well . Heritage drilled all the holes for the rear sub frame & by looks of it got it a bit closer to were they shouid be on mine
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 12th, 2012, 20:39:46 Quote Report to Moderator
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So,  a little grinding, a little advise (from a certain Mr Dickens - thanks John!) and realisation that my wheels will stick out one side more than the other and:

Tonight I tried to fit the radius arm to the 'easy' side (right, with more space) and.... not a chance.
Well, I could struggle and probably get it in place, but I wouldn't be able to grease them up!  So, it looks like I'll definitely need to drill holes in the bodywork (which will also make it easier to fit the radius arm in the first place too).
How's best to do this?  I know some of the older mark's of MM have this - is there a standard size to drill (corresponding with a suitable cover/grommet)?  And seeing as how the cars painted is there a best way of doing this?  And how do I repair the gelcoat afterwards?
(You really would have thought the original owner would've done a dry build and discovered all of this prior to painting, wouldn't you?)
I did manage to get the new steering column bracket fabricated:

I'll cut it down to size when I offer up the column and get it fully welded up:

My drill's at the ready, waiting for your collective wisdom!

Last modified May 12th, 2012, 20:40:38 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 20th, 2012, 18:31:44 Quote Report to Moderator
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Forgot to show last time, I made up some spreader plates for the subframe bolts:


Today I managed to get the radius arms fitted (I now hat ethat job!).  With the subframe being offset left, it was neccessary to take a small part of the 'sill' away on the left hand side:


The worst bit is knowing I'll need to take this all apart again to reinforce these areas and repair the gelcoat/paint.

When fitting the shock I noticed the body of the shock was contacting the raius arm.  I think I've read about this in one of the magazines and I'm sure they ground away the area of the arm that was in contact.  I'll try and dig the mag out.

The right rear was the same, except that on that side the top of the shock couldn't fit in the hole through the body - hopefully it will when fitted correctly onto the radius arm.
Finally, got the steering column offered up.  Again this'll have to come apart again for final welding when everything been connected and tested.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 31st, 2012, 17:28:11 Quote Report to Moderator
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Right, so I've got next week off and I'm hoping to get some time in the garage.  I'm planning to try and do some bodywork and something occured to me.  But first some pictures:

This was neccessary to get the dampers to clear the radius arm:

Although I've got Gaz units, in Keeping Your Mini Alive 5 they had to do something similar for Spax units.
For the RHR unit, although I've got it fitting, the hole for the top nut isn't aligned above the radius arm.  I guess this is another example of a hand made shell idiosyncricies, but am I okay to elongate this top hole to align the damper correctly?  Is there a risk that the hole could be made too big (long)?

But I couldn't resist fitting a wheel on temporarily:

For the bodywork, I've drilled the holes for the grease nipple access.  To stop water damage the cut 'edges' of the GRP will need to be sealed.  Do I just use the resin for this, or orange gelcoat, or a combination of both to do this?
And all the other holes I've drilled (for the front damper mounting, for example) - I've used a silicon sealent when fitting the items.  Should I be taking these off again,clean them up and seal the edges of these holes?
So much to do, so little time (and next week isn't even here yet!).
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Richard Porter
Posted on: June 1st, 2012, 09:32:28 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted May 31st, 2012, 17:28:11 at here
I guess this is another example of a hand made shell idiosyncricies, but am I okay to elongate this top hole to align the damper correctly? Is there a risk that the hole could be made too big (long)?

For the bodywork, I've drilled the holes for the grease nipple access. To stop water damage the cut 'edges' of the GRP will need to be sealed. Do I just use the resin for this, or orange gelcoat, or a combination of both to do this?
And all the other holes I've drilled (for the front damper mounting, for example) - I've used a silicon sealent when fitting the items. Should I be taking these off again,clean them up and seal the edges of these holes?



I'd be a bit wary about elongating the hole. I'd prefer to fill it in and glass over the area on both sides, then drill a new hole where needed. Some shocks have offset studs at the top so you don't need to do this.

As for sealing holes I suspect that normally nothing special is done. There's no point in using gelcoat or gelcoat filler. Resin A should be fine but let it cure before you put the bolts in otherwise you might have difficulty getting them out. Silicone sealant doesn't stick very well to gelcoat, but anything that keeps the water out is better than nothing - mastic or heavy grease would do.

Last modified June 1st, 2012, 09:36:00 by Richard Porter
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 7th, 2012, 19:56:39 Quote Report to Moderator
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Sorry for the delay in replying Richard - my internet has been down, but I'll follow your advice and leave those items alone, that I've already sealed with silicon sealant.  Today I've coated the edges of the holes I created for the grease nipple access with resin as I've put a couple of layers of CSM in those areas that needed it.
I should now be in a position to torque up the rear subframe bolts.  When I spoke to John (Dickens) on the phone he informed me that it is important to align the front/rear subframe to ensure the car doesn't crab and drives nicely.  How do I ensure the rear subframe is 'square', before tightening it all down when the front subbie isn't fitted?
I also need to get back onto the electrics.  The car came with a (lower part of) battery box fitted centrally in the rear.  Now this is a good position for weight distribution and (IVA permitting - I need to confirm that) I'd ;like to keep this arrangement for this reason.  But it will require a sealed battery box, somethig like this:
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/BATTERIES-Battery-Box/c110_127/index.html
Do you reckon this (and the associated battery) would be suitable?  Are there any suggestions for an alternative?  What rating of battery is recommended?  (I've got a hefty, heavy duty battery in the mini, but it's also a good old size, filling the battery box in the boot)
Hopefully I'll get a bit more time in the garage tomorrow to get a bit more done  

Last modified June 7th, 2012, 19:58:01 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 8th, 2012, 11:21:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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I've cleaned up the fuel filler hole this morning.  The cracking is worse than I thought around the securing holes, so I followed John's advice and placed a couple of layers of CSM across the back of this area to stiffen it.  My GRP work is probably best described as, err, workmanlike!  More practise needed I think (although I hope not to get more practise, if you see what I mean!):

I opened up the hole to accept the filler.  From this I can see that I need to fill in the holes (countersink and resin in individual fibres yes?) and I'll probably fill in the 'lip' thats been created to provide a bit more rigidity too:

I'll need the gelcoat soon as well to make the best of this job.
ETA I realise that the cracks don't show up as well now I've seen the photos large scale, but would I now just treat these as cracks in the gel coat?

Last modified June 8th, 2012, 11:24:02 by Graham Bichard
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jimnaylor
Posted on: June 8th, 2012, 11:49:19 Quote Report to Moderator
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There is an older thread on batteries that might answer your questions.

http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/c.....3,highlight=mx5#num3
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 11th, 2012, 20:08:02 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks Jim - I'll look to see if they can supply a battery box for that and (once confirmed it would be IVA compliant) will look at getting one of them!
With a mixture of measuring and viewing, I've got two wheels on my wagon now:

Strut and spring in place:


Last modified June 11th, 2012, 20:10:40 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 25th, 2012, 20:32:30 Quote Report to Moderator
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He he....  I don't remember putting any holes there:
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 28th, 2012, 20:21:49 Quote Report to Moderator
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Got a couple of hours in the garage this week.
The handbrake cable route solution (as suggested by John):

Got a couple of bungs the correct size, so fitted them (and can cross another small job off the list):

This is the solution I have for part of the fuel tank problems - supply outlet fitted:


I'll run a filter directly after this (i.e. before the pump) and it doesn'tt protrude to low either:

My youngest helper got ahold of the camera while I was underneath the car - turns out the picture he took makes the car look quite shiney  
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 4th, 2012, 16:53:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hope this picture comes out!  I'm proposing to put the fuel pump here:

Is this going to be too exposed?  What could I use to shield it?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 16th, 2012, 19:44:34 Quote Report to Moderator
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Steering column correctly fitted now, heater refitted.  Does anyone have any pictures of where the heater pipes go through the bulkhead?  Comparing with the mini, the heater pipes would protrude directly where the chassis plate is.
Ordered another few bits too.



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