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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 37,996 views)
Goff_Allen
Posted on: August 26th, 2014, 17:46:46
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Location: Maltby ,South Yorkshire
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Graham
I have LED back lights including indicator lights and normal bulbs at the front, I bought my leds from
car builder solutions and asked the question do i need a different flasher unit, Yes was the answer , you need this one (photo attached) this cost around £10  , My harness is a Mk 2 mini and only uses 2 wires ,this flasher unit as 3 connection , I am not up to speed on modern minis if your flasher as more than 3 wires phone CBS and ask ???? ,My works a treat
Wiper motor , Check as Steve say's , but sometimes the big cog that that drives the spindle wire seizes up ( the grease dries out ) remove the screws that attach the plate, remove the horse shoe and fiber washer ect ,note the positions and see if the big wheel is not siezed in its bush housing , I have had a couple of these in the past, but usually really old ones that have been stood for years!!!
reverse light , test if you have power going to the switch ,as Steve says bridge the switch or put the car in reverse ,you will probably need the ignition switched on !
Keep up the good work and i hope this helps.
Goff

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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 26th, 2014, 19:17:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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Steve - no pressure (other than that which I put on myself, to try and be ready for Le Mans Classic 2016) - I just can't wait to get driving it.  And I'm jealous of the progress you've made .  Goff too, with that Jem!

Goff - that might be just what I'm after, for the LED front indicators.  It'll be the weekend probably before I can get back in the garage to have another crack at it (fault diagnosis).
I have the MG steering column stalk which I can try and use to confirm the stalk being the problem.

I don't think the wheels are seized - with the motor connected up, stalk set to intermittent or 'one', the motor turns and the wire drive spins.  No harm in stripping and looking though.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 30th, 2014, 15:06:39 Quote Report to Moderator
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So, I've changed over the stalks (remember that MG steering column I bought?  Switches are exactly the same), and exactly the same thing happens - intermittent and low speed are fine.  Go onto high speed and the fuse immediately pops.
So what's the problem?  Wires between the wiper motor and the switch connection?  (I hope not - that'd be within the loom)
I also think I need a new washer bottle motor.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 6th, 2014, 18:41:15 Quote Report to Moderator
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Okay so I've been checking continuity of the wires from the column stalk to the wiper module, and the wiper module to the motor.
I think I've identified a broken wire - one of the green/brown ones between the module and the motor.
In order to test this theory I need to remove the green/brown wire from the centre of this block:

and run an replacement, external wire to check the high speed function, back into the block:

And is there a way to test the wiper module:

I only get continuity across 2 of the five pins.

Last modified September 6th, 2014, 18:41:54 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 7th, 2014, 18:57:55 Quote Report to Moderator
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Okay - I've been a bit stupid!  For some stupid reason I connected the battery +ve before the -ve.
After a few sparks I managed to quickly removed it, but not before I heard some fizzing near from the front of the car.  I found a couple of blown fuses in the main fuse box (replaced) but now I don't have any ignition lights coming on.
I still have side/head lights, but without the ignition on I can't carry on with the wipers.
I've checked the four main fuses in the engine compartment (okay).  What can it be?

Electrics!!!!
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 7th, 2014, 19:02:26 Quote Report to Moderator
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Double post - nothing seems to be going right tonight  

Even when I got my mini wind tunnel up and running yesterday, the results seemed to be the exact opposite of what I was expecting (using an MM model)!

Last modified September 7th, 2014, 19:04:05 by Graham Bichard
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jimnaylor
Posted on: September 7th, 2014, 21:07:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: Bedfordshire
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You have probably burned out the ignition feed wire, either before the fuse box or after or both.

You might also have melted the insides of the ignition switch. Happy hunting!
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 13th, 2014, 12:45:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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Okay - I've JUST gone into the garage to start chasing this fault.
First thing I do is switch the ignition on and..... the ignition light comes on!
This didn't happen after my moment of stupidity last week (even after I changed the fuses) so what's occurring here then?!?!?!?
Not that I'm complaining if it's sorted itself.  But I would like to understand why :/
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 13th, 2014, 18:35:05 Quote Report to Moderator
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And then it didn't work, and then it did!
At least the horn works now.

I hate electrics
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: December 17th, 2014, 10:18:39 Quote Report to Moderator
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Just a quick note while I'm on here to inform all - I haven't forgotten about my car!
I started a new job in July and haven't had a single day off since - needless to say the car has hardly been looked at.  But I have come up with a bit of a plan (hopefully!).

I'm on leave now until the new year (but do have some 'work from home' to complete   ) so have enquired locally to see if there is anywhere I can get the electrics completed.  (I decided it's meant to be a hobby i.e. fun, so I'll direct what time I have to the  bits I enjoy the most and try and find people to do the bits I don't enjoy so much as money allows.  If I don't, the car risks never being finished)

I'm also going to attempt to try and rebuild the gearbox I have, ready for use.  I also need to progress my college project (stagnated for many months now!), do the jobs around the house I've been too busy to do for the last six months or so, and hopefully spend a bit more time with the family.

I'm still aiming for 2016 LMC - here's hoping  

Last modified December 17th, 2014, 10:20:10 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 5th, 2015, 18:41:26 Quote Report to Moderator
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So - the cars gone...

And the mini's being spolit by being housed in the empty garage!
But not to worry:

It off getting the electrics done  
Went up today to see it, and swap some bits over from the mini to eliminate some part.
The daylight running lights are powered, as are the LED indicators.  But I need a new dash (or printed circuit board at least) and a new wiper motor.  But all lights less the reverse light (no switch to hand) are now up and running.
So possibly by next weekend it'll be back in my garage and I can hopefully start saving up to get the engine parts!

Should add - I'm deeply jealous of the garage/workshop of the guy who's doing the work for me!

Last modified April 5th, 2015, 18:43:54 by Graham Bichard
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Cedric_Malitte
Posted on: April 6th, 2015, 02:54:11 Quote Report to Moderator
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My pal at work who's mechanical engineer has a garage that looks like this.
Looks like he never do anything in it apart from wiping dust

I'm messy, so I won't show you any picture of my garage!

About electricity, I did many things on minis. And yes Lucas is the prince of darkness ! Almost burnt my first mini because of a main light switch.
Since that trouble, I put relays and fuses every time on every mini I had
Contacts on the stalks are not that good at switching loads, and after some time, there is carbon building up on contacts.
This does resistance, so under heavy amperage it heats, then fire !

About your led lights, the direction ones, they do not "eat" as much current as the standard bulbs.
On the mini, the blinking relay is working with the current drawn by the lights.
It heats up a small blade that bends up and cut the circuit.
When getting colder, the circuit is closed, lights lit, blade warms and so on.

With leds, the current is over 10 times less, so it won't be enough to heat the blade.
Thus why you need a special timed relay, that will have a ground lug.

A general rule for cars with metal body is to unplug the battery ground first and plug it last.
I saw so many accidents and burns of people doing the reverse and hitting the body of the car with the wrench while trying to detach the + on the battery.

That said, I do not understand what happened if you plugged the + before the -, unless you swapped them, nothing should happen if everything is correctly wired.

As I say at work in the lab when we try a proto for the first time: no spark, no fume, we should be good to put in production !
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 7th, 2015, 19:53:07 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cedric, the front LED indicators have had resistors fitted as opposed to a specific relay fitted.
The rear lights have had heat sinks fitted.  The heated front screen will have a relay incorporated and fuses appear often throughout the circuit(s).
Needless to say - this would've taken me an age to achieve (if at all!)
Just need to save up for the engine bits now!
Can't wait to get it back....
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Cedric_Malitte
Posted on: April 8th, 2015, 12:31:17 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi Graham,
yes resistors are another way to go but do some heat You should not have fog in the lenses !
I use marine fuses box to replace the box found on minis and many in line fuses. Less mess.

Anyway, you've got a nice mini marcos
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 11th, 2015, 11:47:05 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cedric - I hope to have a nice car one day  

The cars back in the garage now:

The rear lights - you can just see the heat soak if you look carefully.

He's tidied up the earth's under the bonnet area.

Heavier wire for the fuel pump.

Tidied up from front to rear!

I also gave the old loom that I removed from the car, which donated some connectors and the guy used the rear window heater section to create a 'new' heated front window loom.  These are just a few photo's I quickly took with my phone camera, but I'm really pleased to have the project moving forward again and to have the electrics largely out of the way (to a standard far higher than I'd be able to achieve).

There are still electrics items to be attended to - I need a new wiper motor, a new three clock dash (or at least the printed circuit that attaches to the rear of the clocks - I think you can get them separately) as well as final tidying to be done.  We discussed this and will finish this when the engines rebuilt and in and final cable runs can be decided.

Plan is now to arrange the garage to best effect to enable me to rebuild the engine with the car also in the garage, and then to get the bits for the engine rebuild.  While I'm saving for those bits I'll look to get the dashboard out and get the engine/subframe out of the car.

Happy days!  Le Mans Classic next year in the MM?  Lets hope so....

ETA - I also need a new engine relay, which I believe is an item shared with other Rover/Landrover models, so shouldn't be too hard to get my hands on.  It's good having an injection mini to be able ot swap bits over with to test/eliminate bits  

Last modified April 11th, 2015, 11:51:41 by Graham Bichard
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