Home Forum Help Calendar Search Register Login
 Welcome, Guest. Please login or register

  Mini Marcos Forum  >  General Boards  >  Mini Marcos  >  Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc
0 Members Browsing (29 Guests)
Currently No Active Members

Pages: « ... 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32 ... » : All Reply Recommend Print
  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 38,008 views)
Simon Robinson
Posted on: April 11th, 2015, 13:08:25 Quote Report to Moderator
Big Member







Location: Northampton
Posts: 336
Graham - you can buy separate PCBs for the three clock dash, from Minispares and also some on eBay.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Cables/BAU1930.aspx

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.

Last modified April 11th, 2015, 13:15:40 by Simon Robinson
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 315 - 542
Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 11th, 2015, 13:17:55 Quote Report to Moderator
Maximum Member2







Posts: 694
Thanks Simon - I might try and get the dash out tonight if the kids insist on watching Britain's Got Talent  

Just been out to turn the car around in the garage.  Here's the main neg return prep'd to be fixed into position eventually:

With the car as far back in the garage as possible I've got about 4' between the front of the car and my workbench - this will be my engine build space:


The green box of bits will be gone and the table will be under the shell when I lift it over the engine.  I'm looking to push the car as far forward as possible, chock the subframe, lift and reverse the shell back to the position it's at now.
With a bit of cleaning of the workbench I should be okay building an engine in this space this autumn, you think?
And a couple of photo's of the car in the sunshine:


Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 316 - 542
Cedric_Malitte
Posted on: April 11th, 2015, 15:22:33 Quote Report to Moderator
Baby Member


Posts: 8
Nice !
You're getting closer  
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 317 - 542
Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 12th, 2015, 15:21:43 Quote Report to Moderator
Maximum Member2







Posts: 694
So I took the dash out last night:

Hopefully this is the problem (indicator tell tale not working):

While lying under the dashboard I took the opportunity to take the glove box out.  This is so I can line it with fabric.  I did this on the mini after getting sick off listening to thing rattle about.  Unfortunately I don't have enough material to complete it, but I'll get some this week and that can be next weeks job (and it'll be cheaper than getting the PCB!  That'll have to wait until next month I think):
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 318 - 542
Simon Robinson
Posted on: April 12th, 2015, 19:02:22 Quote Report to Moderator
Big Member







Location: Northampton
Posts: 336
Graham - looks like you have the Nippon gauges, you will need to use the following PCB otherwise it won't fit!

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Cables/CDU3247.aspx

Somerfords is cheaper though:

https://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4934

South Lakeland Minis have it at about half the price of Minispares:

http://www.ekmpowershop28.com/.....-cdu3247-63762-p.asp

As with a lot of things, if you only need one item the shipping can be quite steep so often best to get those other little bits & pieces you need at the same time.

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 319 - 542
mike brown
Posted on: April 12th, 2015, 19:59:08 Quote Report to Moderator
Big Member







Location: Southampton
Posts: 379
I have successfully soldered one of these. Iirc I scrapped off the coating carefully then soldered it up and covered with plastidip or tape.
Mike
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 320 - 542
Graham Bichard
Posted on: April 26th, 2015, 16:10:40 Quote Report to Moderator
Maximum Member2







Posts: 694
I got in contact with South Lakeland Minis - they weren't able to provide me with the PCB, but did direct me to somewhere that could.  apparently I got the last PCB still listed on the 'Rover' parts database:

So if you see any of these it may be worth buying and putting on the shelf (Minispares don't have any left - I didn't try Somerfords).  I've get the old one in case a future soldering repair is ever required.
Fitting it to the clocks was a bit of a faf, resulting in me having to take the clocks apart (the screws holding the PCB in place also holds the gauges in place - remove the screws and the gauges are free to move in the housing):

At least I was able to wipe away some of the dust that had accumulated.
I've also lined the glovebox.  I've done this on my mini many years ago after getting sick of things rattling around on the hard plastic.  Unfortunately I didn't have enough material left over to do another one.  I really didn't think it would be so hard to find a supplier of this foam backed type material, but it was!  I could only get a light grey material also, the minis material being black (and thicker).
When I took the glovebox off the car I found that it was damaged (the detent screws into the glovebox - on this one the holes had been damaged and the detent glued on.  Taking it off would've broken the flimsy plastic):


I started by making a brown paper template of the rear of the glovebox which I then cut out of thicker card:

I then cut the material to suit, giving enough of an overlap to wrap around the edges:

Next was to try and make a template for the bottom/top/sides of the glovebox.  This was made all the more difficult by the detent.  On the mini, after removing the detent it was reasonably straight forward to make a paper template and then cut out the material, the join was also position top dead centre and then hidden by the detent being screwed back into position.  On this I had to try and cut out around the  detent (pig of a job!).
Anyway, after much trial fitting and cursing here's the finished result:

Not quite as neat as the minis (damned detent), although I think the black material hides the imperfections better also.  You can see the spray glue has gone through the thinner material top left.  The upper left and right corners which look as if they've been missed in the photo but are covered, the curved surface of the box has caused the material to ruck and cast shadows.
I'm not totally happy with the outcome - the mini's is better and the thicker material has a more 'luxury' feel, but it'll have to do until I can get my hands on a better glove box (so I can hide the join line) but at least things shouldn't jiggle around, and re-doing this is so far down the list of things to do!
I'll look to get the dash and box back in the car over this next week - I may be able to get the front subframe/engine out of the car this next bank holiday.  I just need to save up for the engine bits now.
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 321 - 542
Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 4th, 2015, 16:15:43 Quote Report to Moderator
Maximum Member2







Posts: 694
Well, the dash is back in, all lights now working.
And the glove box is installed:

I'm definitely not too happy with this.  The quality of the foam isn't a patch on the stuff used in the mini but as mentioned before - I now know how relatively easy it is to remove the glove box so if I can get my hands on another good one I'll have another go.
This is the one in the mini:

Much better!
I've also disconnected the electrics in the engine bay, undone the steering arms, subframe mounts and tower bolts.
All I need now is some additional muscle and I can get the shell off of the engine and start attacking that  

Last modified May 4th, 2015, 16:15:56 by Graham Bichard
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 322 - 542
Graham Bichard
Posted on: May 9th, 2015, 14:55:43 Quote Report to Moderator
Maximum Member2







Posts: 694
Muscle arrived, shell lifted:

Need to get the engine out of the subframe next, but full of cold so won't be today!
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 323 - 542
Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 4th, 2015, 10:49:44 Quote Report to Moderator
Maximum Member2







Posts: 694
Engine separated from subframe and loaded onto my home made dolly to ease movement:

Need to find a suitable stool/table on which to build the engine (the engine stand only works up to a point with the MPi block, learnt when I rebuilt the mini's engine):

And I've started gathering the bits I need.  Clutch kit, thrust bearings, centre main strap (not sure this is needed for the spec I'll be building, but if I get the opportunity in the future to increase the rev limit with an aftermarket ecu it might prove useful), silicon rocker gasket (thought I'd give this a go):

Also noticed this cable - it's been put through one of the holes used by the engine steady (a lovely DSN item I've bought a while ago).  There's no problem in unplugging and moving this - I'm looking to use the 'other' hole located right in the photo, but as I haven't drilled any of these holes, before I do use this, any ideas what this additional hole could be for?  Don't want to use it and then discover I need to move it again!

Moving forward again... slowly!
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 324 - 542
Allan Brown
Posted on: July 11th, 2015, 07:16:24 Quote Report to Moderator
Team Member Administrator







Location: Billingshurst, UK
Posts: 452
Are those hole for the master cylinders if you wanted to make the car left hand drive? Therefore you wont need them.
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 325 - 542
mike brown
Posted on: July 12th, 2015, 16:57:48 Quote Report to Moderator
Big Member







Location: Southampton
Posts: 379
Unless he has an ultimate engine steady as that's where it bolts on.
Mike
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 326 - 542
Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 19th, 2015, 15:03:38 Quote Report to Moderator
Maximum Member2







Posts: 694
More bits arrived:

Only pistons to go, then engine strip down and rebuild.
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 327 - 542
Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 19th, 2015, 15:13:25 Quote Report to Moderator
Maximum Member2







Posts: 694
Engine steady of choice Mike:

Part of the DSN range.

Also got a DSN 'standard' engine steady:
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 328 - 542
Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 25th, 2015, 16:31:07 Quote Report to Moderator
Maximum Member2







Posts: 694
Attacked the engine last night and today.  I get the impression that this engine might have had a bit of a harder life than my minis, based on the burnt oil smell of the old oil.
The main bearings are all this darker grey colour:

The con-rod bearings all looked good though and the crank journals all looked okay too:

Followers had some pitting (but will be replaced anyway of course) as did the camshaft.
Pistons will be replaced by 72.5mm items (giving 1342cc) which are lighter than the 'normal' +60 thou items I was going to use:

Lets hope I can get all of this back together:

Moving forward again at last  

Last modified July 25th, 2015, 16:34:38 by Graham Bichard
Logged Offline
Private Message Reply: 329 - 542
Pages: « ... 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32 ... » : All Reply Recommend Print

New Thread Mini Marcos Forum  >  Mini Marcos  [ previous | next ] Switch to:

Forum Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post polls
You may not post attachments
HTML is on
Blah Code is on
Smilies are on

Powered by e-blah Platinum 7 Final © 2001-2004   -   October 24th, 2021, 22:24:40

Files opened: 62 | Files closed: 62