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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 37,995 views)
Steve_Schmidt
Posted on: August 8th, 2015, 20:12:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: Gippsland, Victoria, Australia
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Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted August 8th, 2015, 18:37:56 at here
Don't suppose anyone has photos of the underside of their cars do they, to see what the options are?




Here's the hanger I made for the forward section of the rear subframe.


Here's how the muffler mounts at the rear of the subframe.


Twin pipes exit centrally under the fuel tank  at the rear.

Steve (MM 7056) Downunder
http://www.mm7056.wordpress.com
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Stuart
Posted on: August 9th, 2015, 10:08:43 Quote Report to Moderator
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Ouch, get well soon.


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Joost van Dien
Posted on: August 14th, 2015, 19:06:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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Drive it as much as possible!


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Good work! The car is coming together nicely!
Look out with wrapping the manifold. I have done it before and thought it was good but it became so hot that with a bit of movement the manifold bend. At Maniflow they told me that wrapping it can make it to hot and stainless steel can become brittle. I hope yours stays fine.

Cheer, Joost
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mike brown
Posted on: August 15th, 2015, 08:58:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: Southampton
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I had the v weld crack then seperate again maniflow but steel and I was also told the wrapping could cause it.
Mike
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Simon Robinson
Posted on: August 15th, 2015, 10:52:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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Still have nightmares about the seven hour session fitting the new manifold, trying to get it to clear the bulkhead. I ended up having to take half the driveshaft coupling off and undid the engine steadies to get enough clearance.

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 15th, 2015, 16:15:16 Quote Report to Moderator
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If money was no object I'd look to get the manifold Zircotech coated, but it's not, and I've got the wrap so lets see how we go  
I've found out the hinge threads were/are 1/4" UNF, managed to four suitable screws, looked at the first hinge and thought the threads could do with cleaning up.  Out with the tap, first hinge done.  Look at the second hinge for the first time - hmm....  One of the threads has been stripped  
Wonder if this is why the hatch was drilled for fitting but not actually fitted.
I could perhaps try and  tap the hinge at a larger size - it's knackered anyway, or replace it.
Either way, annoying!
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mike brown
Posted on: August 15th, 2015, 16:32:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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You could try a helicoil.
Mike
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 22nd, 2015, 12:00:01 Quote Report to Moderator
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Looking to order my hatch seal this weekend.
While I'm at it has anyone bothered with putting a 'C' section seal around the bonnet opening?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 30th, 2015, 19:25:32 Quote Report to Moderator
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So - unfortunately I haven't got the engine bits back yet (machining done but pistons not yet on the rods, block not prepped for building) so have been looking for things to do.
I bought a new boot hinge (less than £6) and offered up the hatch:

I didn't realise the hinges were handed - luckily I took along the old one.  I also learnt that the reproduction hinges are M6 thread - another possible reason why the old one was stripped?  So I've now got one that's imperial, one thats metric  .  Fits in with the rest of the car then!
Despite loosening off the hinge to body to hatch fastening in order to try and get the best fit, the 'unique' way these cars are built means that the hatch catches on the body slightly:

The panel gap isn't that bad around the rest of the hatch.  I'm hoping the rubber seal I've ordered will lift the hatch slightly and prevent too much rubbing.
I can also only lift the hatch this much:

Does that look about right?  I can't lift it any higher (well I could but don't want to cause damage) because the lip of the hatch goes hard against the shell and I don't want to stress the area around the holes in the shell (for the hinge screws).
I did buy the gaskets that fit under the hinges (couple of quid) which will lift the hinges up a couple of mil, and I suppose careful mounting of a pair of struts will stop the hatch opening too much.
I'm still unsure of how the struts will attach to the hatch - there doesn't seem to much material to drill/attach them to.  Any one have any photo's?

Last modified August 30th, 2015, 19:26:23 by Graham Bichard
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Simon Robinson
Posted on: August 30th, 2015, 19:33:08 Quote Report to Moderator
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Graham - the hatch on my MK IV is held open with a high tech solution, a piece of dowel with rubber walking stick ferrules on either end to prevent any damage to paintwork. Came with the car and it still works...

D&H Mk IV 8313, KGV 215V (aka George) - 75,000 miles and counting since restoration in 2011.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 30th, 2015, 19:35:09 Quote Report to Moderator
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I also took the opportunity to measure the combustion chambers on the cylinder head I've ported for this engine (I couldn't remember if I'd matched them up or measured them its so long ago since I cut this head):

I must have because they were pretty close:

The first head I did, I spent ages measuring these again and again, trying to get them exactly right until I realised the little syringe I use (free with kiddies medicine) isn't really that accurate or finely marked.  But these seems pretty good so I stripped the head down again and dried everything off.
I marked up the washer jet positions:

I ended up moving them forward by about an inch as this position (which looks the best - sort of in a nice straight sweep, in-line with the spindles.  'A straight sweep'???? ) as the tube for the washer motor runs directly below here.
Anyway, got the drill out, set out the tape so the drill doesn't slip and couldn't then find the washer jets!
Bugger.  So stopped there for the night.
Oh well... A little bit further forward!

Last modified August 30th, 2015, 19:36:23 by Graham Bichard
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mike brown
Posted on: August 30th, 2015, 21:48:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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You need to trim the vertical edge of the hatch where it hits the body normally a "bump" in the trim line is enough to get it to clear. As for the lifting height again trimming the vertical part of the hatch shoould allow it to open further mine used to go to about 45°. Both these trims are quite common on Marcos rear hatches in fact I'm pretty sure the mould I have (i made it off a friend's hatch) has them in it.
Mike
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 31st, 2015, 09:49:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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Mike - you mean trimming here:

Could that lead to potential problems with rain ingress?

Simon - I had though of that as a solution but I know that the Heritage car has struts and it would prevent the possibility of accidentally knocking the stick!
So they can be fitted.  Perhaps they are glued/bonded onto the hatch (as opposed to drilled/screwed).
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 5th, 2015, 15:46:55 Quote Report to Moderator
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Fitted the boot seal this afternoon.  The shell thickness gets bigger at the top of the hatch so I only put the squishy stuff around the bottom:

Notice I've adopted the wooden stick approach at the moment also  
I looked closer at the top edge (where it was sticking/catching.  Closer inspection showed that the way the headlining and the sponge under it has been fitted was causing the hatch to bunch the sponge/lining up against the lip of the body.  Carefully trimming the excess lining back (where it had been folded over the lip) gave clearance to open the hatch wider.  I've attempted to put a length of 'U' channel over this lip, but all I think I've succeeded in doing is putting the restriction back in place.  So I'm not sure how long that'll be staying in place.
Something I haven't noticed before (and I'm not sure if the photo will show it) but there's a couple of light (stress?) cracks to the right of the left hand hinge:

Have these been there all along?  Have they appeared since putting the hatch on?  I don't know.  But I'll keep an eye on these.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 5th, 2015, 15:53:41 Quote Report to Moderator
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The other thing I got around to doing today was drill and fit the washer jets:


I've ranted on here before - who paints a car before drilling for all the fixtures/fittings  >
Despite careful use of tape and using new drill bits, on removing the tape there was flakes of paint broken away.  Judging by the colour the gel coat has at least some thickness left.
The guy who did the electrics runs a garage/bodyshop around the corner from where I live.  When he had the car up at his place doing the electrickery, I spoke to him about the body/paintwork.  Seeing as how the boot hinge needs to be painted, and I've found a couple of areas which has been scratched to the bottom of the gel coat (which I hadn't notice when I attempted my previous amateurish repair) I think some more work might be going his way  
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