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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 42,341 views)
Gert-Jan Westerveld
Posted on: May 11th, 2011, 20:19:00 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: The middle of Holland.
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Looking good keep it up   Graham

Rebuild engine  1312CC  .    
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: June 12th, 2011, 19:36:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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Well, not to much to report, except that with the help of my nephews my mother now has her garage back:

And I've got a new job!  But it does mean long hours and a lot of travel so I'm not too sure how much time I'll have to get the build completed.  But at least now I can pop out of an evening, as and when!  But I did get half an hour in there this afternoon, and refitted the newly repaired pedal box:

Obviously I didn't degrease the plate properly  
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dalla
Posted on: June 13th, 2011, 00:10:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: Aarhus Denmark
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Looks very nice sitting there in the garage. Iam jealous mate.

Mini Marcos Mk.II 7012
Dennis Overgaard Nielsen
Denmark
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 10th, 2011, 20:49:58 Quote Report to Moderator
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Couldn't work on my college  project so started building the rear subframe this afternoon:

I guess its an copy part, not an original because I had to do a fair bit of fitting to make things fit (opening up holes and the like).
Richard, I take it this is the bracket you mentioned earlier in the thread, for the handbrake cable?  Are they available seperately, or does anyone have an old subframe they've changed recently?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 11th, 2011, 19:12:05 Quote Report to Moderator
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I stripped one of the old rear hubs that I have, now that I've started on the rear subframe only to discover that its the old ball bearing type, as opposed to the taper roller bearing type that I'm more familiar with.
Am I okay to regrease and reuse these?  Would I be better off with the taper ball race?  Is the basic hub the same (I haven't taken the bearing outer race, only the inner and ball bearings), so that I could fit tapers?
Cheers!
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Joost van Dien
Posted on: July 19th, 2011, 08:34:46 Quote Report to Moderator
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Drive it as much as possible!


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Reuse old bearing is not my favourite, but if the balls are not coroded/ pitted/ cracked or oval and the bearing cage is in good condition you could give them a good clean and use them again. When I refurbished my rear hubs I also found ball bearings, I took them out and replaced them with the tapper type, no problem at all. The only thing is, when you push or glently hammer (with a drift) the race in position, make sure you don't hit the race with your drift. The edge of the race is quite thin.

cheers  

Last modified July 19th, 2011, 08:35:36 by Joost van Dien
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: July 21st, 2011, 20:24:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Joost - I take it they hub itself is the same?  And is the spacer the same for both types of bearings?
Well the new job may prevent me getting into the garage much but at least it allows me to pay for these:

Not quite the Imola S (or Pro as it is now) - the job doesn't pay that well!  They are Monaco Pro, very similar in dimension to the Imola (which was important) but with a steel frame, not composite.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 29th, 2011, 16:15:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Can I ask for some opinions here?
I was looking at the rear hubs with a view to building up with the new bearings that I've got and noticed this - the edge seems to have been 'fractured' off:

Looking at the edge itself, it doesn't actually appear to have been broken off:

Can I use these or not?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 30th, 2011, 16:07:37 Quote Report to Moderator
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Well, I knackered the vacuum motors on the flow bench so went into the garage.
I managed to (loosely) mount the wiper motor - I used an existing hole in the bulkhead.  When I've got things positioned I'll secure everything properly and put some silicon in the holes to water proof them.
I also offered up the heater unit:

Not remembering what Richard recommended was next I attempted to fit the headlight bowls.  The plastic bowls I've got have come with screws and securing clips (as opposed to the rivits I was expecting to use), but am I right in thinking I'll have to drill a hole for the adjuster screws to go through?  I tried to compare it with my MPi, but its' headlight bowl is a little different having motor height adjustment.  And is it only the chrome surround that holds the lens in place?  I seem to remember my old mini having some sort of spring arrangement.
And does it matter where the adjustment screws are positioned (as in at the 12 o-clock position)?

And would anyone out there use those rear hubs?
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Stuart
Posted on: August 30th, 2011, 18:36:17 Quote Report to Moderator
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I'd use those hubs. I also know someone who cuts off parts of the hub with an angle grinder to loose a bit of weight.
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: August 30th, 2011, 19:28:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: Ongar, Essex
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Hello, on my headlamp bowls I had to drill two clearance holes for the adjuster for each bowl. They were positioned at 9 (or 3) o'clock and 12 o'clock. That way you can adjust for up and down as well as side to side.
The chrome rim around the lens had two tabs each with an angled slot and one tab with a hole. You slide the slotted tabs onto the adjusters (they have a effectively two heads 1 mm apart) and put a screw through the third tab.
Screwing the adjusters in an out moves the lens, they pivot about the retaining screw.
You'll have to squint but you can see the larger adjuster holes, both sides at 12 o'clock, offside 9 o'clock and nearside 3 o'clock



With my heater I made a lot of work for myself by swopping over the intake to the nearside. I also made up some diverters for the screen demister vents so that the plastic demister funnel laid flat against the top of the dashboard rather than poking down. It allowed the demister trunking to have a better run from the heater.

My hubs looked like that too
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 3rd, 2011, 14:36:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Stuart, Peter - I'll get the rear hubs built up then.
And get the bowls fitted.  As for the heater inlet, it's an MPi twin speed heater which has the inlet on the nearside already.  I haven't drilled the holes through the bulkhead yet (but theres lots of time for that yet!)

ETA Put the new wheel studs in and offered up the minifin drums (with inbuilt spacer).  Theres only 12mm of stud protruding which (from memory) seems less than the MPi.  Does 12mm seem right to you?

Last modified September 3rd, 2011, 20:17:42 by Graham Bichard
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admin
Posted on: September 3rd, 2011, 22:52:34 Quote Report to Moderator
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No, you need more than that. That drum looks a lot taller than normal. Those studs would be OK with normal Cooper S drums or standard Super Minifins.

Btw don't buy the cheap Chinese minifin replicas as they are inaccurately made. I had to return one pair because one of the stud holes was slightly out of position and the drum clamped tightly onto the backplate when the studs were tightened up.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 5th, 2011, 18:35:01 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Richard.  The drum are from minispares and seem quite good items so I'll look at getting longer studs if available.
I drilled the holes to fit the bowls yesterday.  Who on earth would paint a shell before sorting out all the drilling  .  I thougth I was being careful - masking tape, pilot hole etc but some paint still chipped off.  Oh well, I need to get some coloured gel coat for the scratches on the rear quarters, so will use some to fill in the chips eventually before fitting the bowls.
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: September 7th, 2011, 11:58:14 Quote Report to Moderator
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Has anyone got any pictures of their cars fuel tanks in position?  Ideally with the rear subframe in position.

Ta
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