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  Author    Marcos 7184  (currently 2,602 views)
Herve_barriere
Posted on: July 22nd, 2014, 14:47:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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hi

thanks for informations, I have seen the mounting on mini on internet, i was not sure on the MM. I think it will be better to rebuild the area properly and do the same for the right side too in order to ovoid the problem.
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admin
Posted on: July 23rd, 2014, 17:06:44
Attachment: p1130224.jpg - 61.47 KB (1515 views)
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Location: Maidenhead, UK
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Photo for Hervé. Sorry one or two members are having problems uploading photos.

Front damper bracket mount.


Last modified July 23rd, 2014, 17:08:57 by admin
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admin
Posted on: July 23rd, 2014, 17:07:12
Attachment: p1130234.jpg - 54.14 KB (1517 views)
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The other one.

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mike brown
Posted on: July 23rd, 2014, 21:12:36 Quote Report to Moderator
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Looking at the photo it's pulled through both the cross member, steel plate and the fibreglass. Your only real coarse of repair is cut it all out and rebuild with either new metal or if you know what your doing it is possible to do it with just fibreglass.
Mike
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Brian
Posted on: July 23rd, 2014, 21:45:32 Quote Report to Moderator
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Okay, jumping in here -- for my car, any hints on where these should be mounting? I've been unable to determine any good locations for the shock mounts on my MK6. It sounds like those will be into the side of the cross-member? I'm not aware of any markings that will let me locate them in there. Is this going to be another probing trip in which I try to use lights and magnets, etc to find that?
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mike brown
Posted on: July 24th, 2014, 05:39:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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The simplest way is to remove the rubber "spring" and allow the top arm to sit hard against the bump stop. Position the damper fully compressed add about 15mm and mark. Repeat at full droop only extend the damper fully this time and minus about 15mm and mark. Now posstion the damper somewhere between the two to best suit mounting (ie bolt clearance). Temporary fix in this position now swing the suspension through a fully cycle make sure it doesn't bottom out either end (allow a bit more for bump stop compression) then drill off and reassemble.
Mike
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Brian
Posted on: July 24th, 2014, 07:49:02 Quote Report to Moderator
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Ah, I take that to mean that there aren't pre drilled and tapped holes sitting somewhere behind the fiberglass? Ive already done that expedition to find the brake/clutch cylinder holes...

What's behind there? Is that into the side of the crossmember?

Before I saw this thread, I was thinking the only option would be to drill some holes, and use nuts and a backing plate, through the vertical fiberglass piece separating the engine bay from the wheel wells, and somehow reinforce the holes to prevent them from widening -- something I was skeptical about, which is why I still have no front shocks installed.
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mike brown
Posted on: July 24th, 2014, 09:10:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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Earlier cars you picked up holes just above and below the steel mini crossmember. I think mk4 had custom steel plates either side instead of a full crossmember I believe mk5 didn't have steel at all. I've seen shocks mounted with the bracket bolts either side of the crossmember mk3-4 and a mk5 with two in between and two above. As long as they don't bottom out either end, don't rub and are in the right plain they'll be fine.
Mike
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Herve_barriere
Posted on: June 6th, 2015, 10:59:05 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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Hi everybody

After a long period (due to newborned twins), I could start the work on the marcos.
As a good frog boy, I have to buy tools in inches and not metric.



First step, disassembly the interior in order to have a lighter car to move.
Surprise, steel on the floor, severals damage on the shell, fiber work to take into account for future.




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Herve_barriere
Posted on: June 6th, 2015, 17:14:51 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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we will lift the body with a system fixed on front subframe fixation. Just a steel bar with a cut of scare tube which slide on it. We could balance the car during the lift.









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Herve_barriere
Posted on: June 6th, 2015, 17:20:17 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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the under of the shell is not in good conditions (wood parts are fixed in the tunnel for the gearbox linkage)





Shell view at the front suspension bracket. We will work on it during the restauration (on both side) and we will make new steel insert
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Herve_barriere
Posted on: June 6th, 2015, 17:25:08 Quote Report to Moderator
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So, we will take off the engine from subframe



Finally, the front subframe is in good condition. Just a sanding & new paint and it will be ok


Santa Claus works for me !!
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Herve_barriere
Posted on: June 6th, 2015, 17:30:13 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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After front subframe, go for rear subframe. We have a lot of difficulty to disassembly from the body (one day to take off). All bolt are rusty and we have to drill it and finally, cut the body (we broke 2 drills)





Rear subframe is very rusty, with lot of deformations & cracks. Fortunetly, a friend of my dad have one in good condition. Give for free. Thanks Georges.
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Herve_barriere
Posted on: June 6th, 2015, 17:35:41 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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Ok, disassembly is fun but how I will paint the car.
My wife created severals proposal and below, that I choose.
The rear fin will be cut, I do not like it.



In order to have a better idea, I put scotch to simulate. At the end, I have to change the place of the line to the other side because the fuel cap breaks the vision.





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Herve_barriere
Posted on: June 6th, 2015, 17:38:00 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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Next step, in august because the car is 600 km far from me.
To be continued.....
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