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  Author    Marcos 7184  (currently 2,605 views)
Steve_Schmidt
Posted on: June 6th, 2015, 22:27:35 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: Gippsland, Victoria, Australia
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Well done Herve, you've made a great start, and I like the stripe concept - now the real work begins  
Looking forward to more updates as you make progress.

Steve (MM 7056) Downunder
http://www.mm7056.wordpress.com
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admin
Posted on: June 8th, 2015, 21:32:07 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: Maidenhead, UK
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Interesting place to put the spoiler! Usually they are mounted on the tail just below the window.
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Herve_barriere
Posted on: June 9th, 2015, 17:48:38 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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yes, very strange. i bought my Marcos like that.
I don't like, the shape of the body is completly different with it. For my use, I think spoiler is not necessary, i will use it for classic car rally in regularity, no speed interest. Besides, I have a classic 1275 BO so, with 65 HP....
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Brian
Posted on: June 9th, 2015, 22:37:10 Quote Report to Moderator
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It's like the BMW Mini Coopers -- some have a small spoiler at the back of the roof  . A bit out of place on the MM.
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Herve_barriere
Posted on: June 28th, 2015, 09:10:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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Hi

I received some parts ordered to improve the car

Brakes : brake conversion kit to original 7.5" : shield, bracket, caliper + new shoes for rear…
Engine :  head gasket kit, new clutch disc, we will check all pipe
Front and rear damper : new bracket (old one are too rusty) + damper Gaz adjustable
Suspension : new road/rally rubber cone, kit HI LO, geometry items for fitting angle (front & rear)
Interior : new Motolita 13'' dished wood steering wheel, new Smiths tachometer gauge & voltmeter. I will design a new dashboard, perhaps in aluminum
Electric : new wire, old one have lot of cut & weld. We will put fuses (for tripmaster & time cell system)

Aims is to mix modernity (for reliability) & classic (for styling)

I have to buy shell mirror & reinforce the system for the interior mirror because with vibrations is always wonky.
Does someone made modification for that ? (perhaps just change the mirror will be enough. A new kneecap wil work better)

For the plate which hides the spare wheel & battery, what do you use ? (just wood, like balsa wood)







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Herve_barriere
Posted on: August 2nd, 2015, 15:49:40 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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Hi

I wonder me if is it possible to put an aluminium 2 core radiator in our Marcos. It seems to me that the space is not big enough. The top of the curent radiator is in interference with the bodyshell at this time. As i want to keep the radiator in the side, does someone have a 2 core in side place ?

Thanks
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admin
Posted on: August 4th, 2015, 10:09:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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Using a front radiator and electric fan is the preferred way to go. You can have a side radiator but you need to drop it about 2cm or so in the fan cowling so that the filler cap doesn't foul the bonnet or the lip of the engine bay.. See the Mk.III or Mk.IV build sheet on the web site (see 'The Cars' menu). I haven't tried using an aluminium rad but it it's a direct replacement for the Mini rad it should be OK.

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Herve_barriere
Posted on: August 4th, 2015, 12:34:58 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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Ok Thanks, i will have a sight. My Target is to keep the rad side because I prefer with opening front (styling preference). With front rad, i think i am obliged to close the front. For performance, sure you are right, front position is better for cooling.

Another question, i will make new electric wires. Do you use mini wire and adapt it or use it like that ?

Regards
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admin
Posted on: August 4th, 2015, 23:44:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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With a front rad you don't need to close the gap. Leaving it open will help keep the exhaust manifold a bit cooler.

As far as the wiring loom is concerned I strip down a Mini loom, lay in the wires that I need where I want them, loosely tape the wires together, then take the loom out out and bind it properly with loom tape. The main changes I make are:

- headlamp and front indicator wires taken back under the wings and into the dash area from each side.
 It helps to keep these sections separate so that the headlamp bowls can be removed if necessary.
- extra earth wires where needed. Headlamps are earthed to the engine on each side. Rear lights are earthed to
 the battery terminal connector as are the fuel gauge sender and electric fuel pump.
 Remember that the starter solenoid bracket needs to be earthed if mounted on fibreglass.
- separate thick cable from battery +ve to alternator, fuse box and ignition switch via ammeter
 (avoids voltage drop over starter cable).
- relays for headlamps, driving lamps, rad fan and air horns.
- some wires need to be extended to reach rear lights or instruments.
- manual override switch for electric radiator fan.
- 9-way connector on speedo head (big round Mini type) so the whole thing can be removed easily.

Note that the rear section of the loom goes through the left hand sill, not over the door.

I hope that helps. Obviously a lot of what you do is a matter of personal preference and what bits of equipment you have. It helps to start off with a loom that meets most of your requirements, in particular whether you are using Clubman instruments or normal Mini ones.

Last modified August 4th, 2015, 23:50:59 by admin
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: August 5th, 2015, 10:43:02 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from admin, posted August 4th, 2015, 23:44:27 at here
With a front rad you don't need to close the gap. Leaving it open will help keep the exhaust manifold a bit cooler.



Isn't it better to keep the exhaust manifold as hot as possible to aid with gas speed?  That's one of the reasons for using exhaust wrap - keeping the heat in the manifold to keep it hotter (as well as aiding with keeping under bonnet temperature down).

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admin
Posted on: August 5th, 2015, 21:59:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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When I put the front panel on my Marcos I found that the fibreglass behind the exhaust manifold was getting scorched. This could only have happened because the air flow was reduced. I alleviated the problem by fitting sheets of aluminium behind the manifold and spaced off the bulkhead. I could have taped up the manifold but this would have moved the problem to the down pipe which runs quite close to the floor where it passes the gearbos remote.
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Herve_barriere
Posted on: August 16th, 2015, 16:58:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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hi

thanks for informations for wires.

Unfortunately, I have some problems with slave & master cylinder on my Alpine A310 so holidays has been dedicated to solve problems on it.

Fortunately, the guy who will work on the body shell cames.
Preconisations are to make a complete aerogommage of the shell in order to see all cracks, then repair all damaged zone, new fiber on all the car. On top of that, inox plate for suspension bracket, same for the bonnet and change the front upper subframe enclosed in the fiber (lot of rust on it).

See below pictures of the front crossmember subframe. does any one of you change this part ? we think to do a new one in inox too.
If someone have a drawing of this part, i am interested in.

what do you think of change it ? i think it will not be easy but sure is best for the car.

thanks



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admin
Posted on: August 19th, 2015, 10:12:21 Quote Report to Moderator
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There's an article by Craig Smith in Magazzine 115, Spring 2010 on crossmember replacement. Back numbers are available from Allan Brown. Craig is on the forum and on facebook.

Last modified August 19th, 2015, 10:16:34 by admin
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Herve_barriere
Posted on: September 5th, 2017, 22:37:49 Quote Report to Moderator
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Location: France
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Hi Guys

I'm back, twins have grown, we relive.
We disassembly completly the car, now, bodyshell is in work (aero blasting, fiber, change on metal part...)

We will change the bulkhead, ordered in Marcos heritage. Note that painting on the new part is not good, we have been obliged to repaint some zone because of lack of painting. Marcos Heritage said me that it is a problem with his supplier, it's like that (to me, not good arhument for new part).

I have one question. When I bought my marcos, the bulkhead was cut in carburator zone !!! not good for rigidy I think. (see picture). My concern is that with new bulkhed, we could not put in place the carburator. The engine is a british open one transformed in carburator instead of injection (I bought it like that).

For you, Is there an alternative ? could I change my SU by another one (for information, I am not intersted in weber one because my engine has no modifications to have more HP)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/x01u03abV1m2eNxB3
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mike brown
Posted on: September 6th, 2017, 05:58:52 Quote Report to Moderator
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Some inlet manifolds give better clearance so you could try a different one. Cutting the bulkhead is no problem as long as the hole is fibreglassed over later cars have no steel in the middle of the bulkhead and the steel is only there to stop the bolts crushing through.
Mike
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