Mini Marcos Forum  >  Mini Marcos  >  Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc
Topic Started by:
Graham Bichard
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Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 6th, 2010, 20:13:40

Got one!

This is the one I was told about last year, when I signed up on here, from Acespeed in Shipley.
It came complete with engine/suframe/brakes and the like:

and is fitted with a nice new oil cooler!

Don't think I'll need an oil cooler, but you never know  :).
I'm going to have to learn these new fibreglassing techniques though - for some reason they've put the loom through the bulkhead right behind the carb.  Doesn't look right to me!?!

It's the 3rd Mk6 shell produced (No1 is the Heritage demonstrator, No2 may have gone to Japan, so could be the first Mk6 UK customer car - thanks for the info Richard!), and was supplied in 2006.  Andy Harrison of Acespeed wasn't too impressed with the finish though, so had the body prepped and painted Porsche GT orange.  But with lots of work on, it got put to the side, and the project ground to a halt.  After two years sat in the corner of the workshop we managed to agree a price so now it's mine  ;D.  Having sat for a couple of years (albeit in the workshop) the seatbelt mounting points have got a covering of rust - the first job I'll have at Easter is to paint these with Krust!:

I could've bought an older car cheaper I suppose, but I've always been keen to build a new car - it'll just take a bit of time while I save up some more pennies (and overcome the miriad of IVA problems I'll encounter along the way!).
It came complete with carbon fibre covered dash:

(Oh, and see my nice new carbon fibre knob!  Lovely!)
How long is this going to take?  Well, the cars in the North-east and I'm not, so it may take some time I'm afraid (Oh and now I know John Dickens is up that neck of the woods, there'll be lots of questions flying his way  ;).  Then again, with the internet, you'll all be getting questions!!!)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 6th, 2010, 20:54:16
Reply: 1

Having a good look at the car last night I noticed that only one of the front subframe, rear mounts had been attached.  Speaking with Andy when they attached the towers there was a gap on one of them, he was intending to make a spacer plate to take up the slack.
Likewise, at the front of the subframe there was no mountings, with a 1" gap on the nearside:

and a 1/2 - 3/4" gap on the offside:

Now I've read enough threads on here about these cars not being symetrical, but is this the norm?  I think I'll invest in some adjustable bottom arms, and adjustable rear subframe brackets too!
Another thing!  The battery box has been bolted in the hatch area, right in the middle.  It's not positioned there on the Heritage car, and Garry's Mk4 has a moulded battery box located in the rear left corner.  Anyone know where the demonstrator car has it located?

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: March 6th, 2010, 23:55:21
Reply: 2

The paint is a good match for the Flymo....

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 7th, 2010, 14:52:32
Reply: 3

Quoted from Peter Bremner, posted March 6th, 2010, 23:55:21 at here
The paint is a good match for the Flymo....



;D Peter - the sad fact is the Flymo'll be a damn sight faster than the car for at least a good couple of years.....

Posted by: Garry Scott Posted on: March 7th, 2010, 23:31:28
Reply: 4

Nice one mate, glad you got one and a very good base to start with!

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 09:25:23
Reply: 5

That looks really nice. I'd have loved to started with something so fresh...

The Asymmetry of the Mk 1-4 is fairly well documented. Its also very easy to see with the naked eye (especially on mine!) on the front. The radiator box never looks square, which is why I decided on the 45 holes, rather than one square hole. Looking at the first 2 pictures of yours, its easy to see how much better (read square) the front is... but looking at the indicator reccesses-its still not perfect!

I dont know about others, but rather than make up spacers, mine pulls in nicely when everything is bolted up.

What engine are you going with? Im sure you've got the MPI aswell...

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 10:06:27
Reply: 6

Cheers Garry!
Matthew, yes the plan is to make it an MPi.

The first job is to strip it right back to a bare shell, have a look at it and decide where to start.  I've got the MPi looms (which won't be going through the centre of the bulkhead), engine, steering column (for the updated switchgear) and heater - basically I want to use as many MPi parts as possible to try and keep the electrics as straight forward as possible.
As said, this is going to be a long project - the cars' currently at one end of the country, I'm at the other and its going to be like that for the next 12-18 months.
I have got the engine down south with me, and I've already ported the head to go on it (just a bit of chamber work to do), so I could crack on and rebuild that (I'm looking at a 1330, with Swiftune SW5i cam, 1.5 rockers etc, ultimately with a different ECU).  I'm just thinking it may be unwise to rebuild the engine now, only to have it sit for the next 2-3 years  :-/.
As for the shell, the first thing I'll do is to fill in the bulkhead loom hole, and put a radius on the corners of the oil cooler cut out.  Not having had a good look at the front subframe, rear mount, I don't know how big the gap is to the mount.  Would'nt 'pulling' it in put an extra stress on the shell?  (Or would it cause everything to line up properly  ;D)  And I'm assuming that the front of the subframe does in fact attach to the shell, as per a mini?  (There are no holes in the front of the shell like there are on the mini).
I'll probably look to use a Fiat Cinquicento radiator (they've been well received on here and are quite cheap!) - I take it, it's best to mount it in the front box in the verticle orientation (against where the oil cooler is currently sitting), as opposed to the inclined front-most surface?




And so the questionning begins!!!
:) :) :)

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 10:22:14
Reply: 7

Im sure that pulling in too far might put a little stress on the car, just depends how far is too far! I believe the holes are left to be drilled out by you... As each car/subframe is slightly different!

Am I right in thinking the Mk6 uses a late (single ower bolt) subframe? If so, surely the rubber teardrops will fit in the gap from the subframe to the body? I know they are different gaps... but it'll get it closer!

My radiator has been fitted inclined under the front - Helps me with space for the throttles out the front of the engine ;)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 10:38:00
Reply: 8

Matthew - of course.  I'm forgetting you're going K-head crossflow!
Fitting it up against the inclined surface (with a mesh grill for protection) would free up some space, but Paul Harcourt has posted on here (guess what I've been doing!), a verticle mounted rad within a manufactured bulkhead.  Guess I'll get the rad and fan and offer it up, see what works best!
Yes, the car uses the single tower bolt subframe (someone else on here has suffered from this on an earlier car, if I remember correctly) so I can use the subframe I've built up so yes, the rubber/poly teardrops may do the trick - well remembered!
I've just spoken to Heritage - I'm planning on going down and having a look at the demonstrator.  I'll see what they've done.  I need to order another chassis plate to mount on the right hand side of the car (as per IVA), and I should be able to see if they're supplying the correct windscreen now too (although a heated screen does appeal!).  As I said, I don't think they've had much to do with IVA!

Posted by: Allan Brown Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 21:32:37
Reply: 9

The reason for leaning the radiator forwards is to give you more clearance for the distributor. But if you are using the MPI engine I guess you won't have that problem.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 8th, 2010, 22:10:10
Reply: 10

Quoted from Allan Brown, posted March 8th, 2010, 21:32:37 at here
The reason for leaning the radiator forwards is to give you more clearance for the distributor. But if you are using the MPI engine I guess you won't have that problem.



Yep - no Marigold waterproofing for me!!!  ;D


Posted by: paul harcourt Posted on: March 9th, 2010, 16:21:01
Reply: 11

I leaned the radiator forward to give me clearance with the starter motor solenoid and distributor as the Mk 3 I had originally had the separate solenoid mounted on the inner wheel arch.

Posted by: Garry Scott Posted on: March 10th, 2010, 22:40:00
Reply: 12

why dont you use the MPI rad? one of the lads on my forum has broken his MPI and is selling a load of bits of inclusing a complete rear subframe and engine plus all the loom and ecu, have a look on west country minis!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 11th, 2010, 21:04:32
Reply: 13

Garry, I'll have a look, but I'm pretty certain I'll use the Cinquicento radiator.  It has the advantage of being alloy (therefore not rusting), smaller (but still able to handle the expected power/heat produced), and a damn sight cheaper than the MPi front mounted rad.
I am after an MPi tank though, so I can utilise the fuel pump, swirl pot and pipework with a new MM (minivan) tank.  Oh, and I've got a rear subframe already - not an MPi one (with the mounting point for the fuel filter) but a brand new one, nontheless.  I'll make up a bracket/drill some holes, to mount a filter.
I spent a good hour and a half at Heritage in Semmington yesterday speaking to Rory Macmath.  He was able to give me a good idea of what needs to be done and how best to do it, for which I'm very grateful.
There are a good number of differences to your (Garry's) Mk4, as you'd expect (but that's the only other car I've had a good nosey around!).  For example, it's not an option to route the main loom through the sill recess, it needs to be routed internally.  The front mounts of the front subframe need to be offered up and then the mounting holes in the body drilled to accommodate.  Rory was also able to offer a suggestion to seal the fuel tank filler pipe:
Offer up and the tank, secure the flexible filler pipe the cut lengthways a piece of drain pipe (previously 'fitted' to the exposed length of fuel pipe).  Place this around the filler and then laminate it back together, sealing the top and bottom of the drain pipe to the shell!  Must remember that when I get to that stage!  :)
As I thought, they weren't too aware of the differences to the IVA (from the SVA).  But it would seem I got a better bargin than I realised - he was able to give me an idea of the price of the car as supplied  ;D.
Other things I've been thinking about - I wasn't given the small bonnet locks when I got the car so would like to use lockable aerocatches if I can find a way of mounting them.  There is a space for the battery, to the left of the spare wheel well on the demonstrator.  It would seem to make sense to me to relocate the battery from the position it's in to there, and to use a sealable battery box too.  Can't hurt for IVA!
Oh, and I received a copy of John Dickens' fibreglassing book through the post today!  Hopefully Chapter 13 (and a little practise!) will help me get rid of the hole in the bulkhead!!!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 1st, 2010, 20:30:55
Reply: 14

Right, having nothing better to do the other night I went in the garage to scare myself:

...and came away thinking it might not be as bad as it seems.  As Matthew has already said - it really is a case of plug and play!  (It helps when you've got an MPi to compare the loom to - see it in th ebackground with the bonnet open?  There'll be a lot of that ahead!  ;D)
There's very little to the rear loom - I'm sure there must be a way to feed that through the sills.  We'll see.
I hope there's a lot of room behind the dash - theres a lot of wiring to fit in behind there!  I'm a little disappointed to discover the loom goes through the centre of the bulkhead on the mini too.  Given the difference in shape, I'll have to come up with a solution to that (I don't really want to mount it there - space is too tight.)  And I count three holes needed in the bulkhead to pass the loom through.
And how the heck do you get the engine loom to look neat and tidy!  There's a lot to be said for a 60's vintage 850 MM!

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: April 2nd, 2010, 09:13:03
Reply: 15

Don't forget you have to have a negative loom and a battery cable as well.

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: April 2nd, 2010, 09:33:03
Reply: 16

You might get a bit of inspiration from this link, a picture says 1000 words. :)

http://mini-craft.com/koukoku/marcos.html

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 5th, 2010, 19:52:30
Reply: 17

Hi Neil - did you post that link in another thread?  I've studied the pics on that SPi car in some depth!
I trust by a 'negative loom' you're refering to some sort of cable to take all the 'earths' back to the negative side of the battery?

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: April 5th, 2010, 23:54:28
Reply: 18

You need a few cables, the main negative feed goes to the engine then a feed for the rear loom and another for the front loom although you could take it from the engine.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 19th, 2010, 20:05:43
Reply: 19

Right - I've just had a week at home so I was able to have a better look at my purchase!  This is what I found:
I'm going to have to learn fibreglassing - these gouge's must've been done on the trailer when I brought it up from Shipley.
Passenger side:

Drivers side:

From the inside you can just see where the gouge has penetrated through to the inside (the drivers side isn't so bad):

I take it the repair for this will be as per a hole (I'm referencing John's book here!)?
The bodywork isn't as good as the original photo's make it look - it's not a bad paint job, but there are a good number of scratches on it.  I noticed this one when I picked it up:

I also discovered another similar one on the NSR.  Again refering to the 'Good Book', I take it this will require a repair to the gel coat?
I could be really annoyed about these (especially the floorpan damage  ::)) but to be honest I couldn't stop grinning whenever I opened the garage door!
I did manage to clean the crap out of the interior, and take the existing loom out of the car and remove the carb/LCB and alternator.  Just to give an idea of how it'll look I offered up the injection inlet manifold  ;D:

Looking at this picture, are the two holes (located just above the manifold, by the ratchet handle) for an ultimate engine steady?  And whats the opinion about the loom hole - should I fill and move as I originally thought?
I had thought the next job would be to remove the front subframe and engine, but am now thinking fitting the injection body and engine looms might be a better plan, trying to get a neat layout prior to putting in the MPi engine with all the ancillaries.  what do you think?
Oh, and the reason for getting only a little done on the car (apart from gutting the house ready for renovating, and digging/planting the allotment we've just been allocated)?  I thought I'd better sort out my garage ready for working in (and thereby giving my mother her's back!):

The kitchen work top I kept to do fibreglass work on (and doesn't the to-do board look empty  ;D).

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: April 19th, 2010, 23:09:54
Reply: 20

Hello, just regard the gouges as drainage holes! Looks like we have another Tertius on the forum with a garage that clean. Just wait till you start grinding....
Yes, they're the holes for the engine steady.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 20th, 2010, 19:23:38
Reply: 21

;D Peter - having used the 'Search' button, I'll very much take that as a compliment having seen the standard of Tertius' work!  Don't expect it to stay this clean though  ;).
I've got a solid old set of chest of drawers to replace the workmate, and am still looking for some kitchen wall units to put on the rear wall for storage.  And I'm getting an 18' lean-to shed built along side the garage to hold the garden stuff/bikes etc so hopefully it won't migrate into the garage.  I'm planning to put some more florescent lights in the area of the workbench too, when the wall units are in.
Actually the picture makes the garage look bigger than it is - with a mini parked close to one wall I can strip and work on one wheel station.  To do the other side I have to move the car over to the other side.  Hardly ideal, but better than being outside!
I'll start looking for the best price for an engine steady now aswell then!
Drainage holes - pah!

Posted by: Tertius van Zyl Posted on: April 21st, 2010, 10:32:06
Reply: 22

Clean garage! You guys must be kidding! Thought I would check this morning in case the fairies have visited! Still getting the "You can't come into my house with that white mess under your shoes" from u know who!
Good luck Graham on your build.

Posted by: Joost van Dien Posted on: May 26th, 2010, 08:14:13
Reply: 23

Nice build! You don't see a new build very often! Good luck with it!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 8th, 2010, 19:24:31
Reply: 24

I was up home at the weekend, and managed to get an afternoon in the garage.
First a look at the new bits which had arrived - new radius arms with bits, new rear brake back plate assemblies and new drums:

Also adjustable camber/castor rear brackets and some ally mounting brackets.
I got my 2.9 FD in the end - this should help with acceleration a bit (over the MPi's 2.7) and still be good for motorway work.  I'll just have to make sure I build a nice torquey engine to pull it  :) :

I took these bits up home while I was at it, having taken them apart/cleaned/rebuilt them:

And with the help of my nephews managed to get the engine/subframe out - is this a step forward or back  ;D :

When I took the gear shift mech off I noticed this:

I take it the forks are meant to be parallel?
Final pic, as I've mentioned the car is going to have an MPi fitted.  In an attempt to extract as much as I can from it, I spent a couple of evenings cleaning up one of the inlet manifolds I have, in an attempt to improve flow.  Hopefully this picture will show just how rough the original casting is, and what I've managed to achieve to improve it:

Ideally I'd get it chromed (to further aid flow and to reflect heat), but that costs money and might be a step too far  :P.
The other thing I managed to do (it was a busy few days!) was visit East Coast Fibreglass Supplies and buy a few bits and pieces in order to let me do the repairs to the floorpan next time I'm up.  Can't recommend them highly enough - very knowledgable and helpful.  I'll certainly be putting my name down to attend their free fibreglassing courses when I'm able.
So - what do I do next (after the floor)?  Should I put the loom in and look at possible fixing points?  Do I leave it entering through the centre of the bulkhead?  Or fuel pipes next?  Any suggestions?

Posted by: admin Posted on: June 8th, 2010, 23:15:45
Reply: 25

Get the fuel line and front-to rear brake line in first (looks like you have done). Get the wipers and washers in while there's plenty of room to get to them. Fill in that hole in the bulkhead and take the loom through on the left. The wiring for the lights and indicators can go under the wings and into the dashboard area from each side.

Leave the wiring loom until you've got all the electrics on and have finalised the dashboard layout. The back section of the loom can go through the nearside sill and the double skin section behind the door. The front section you'll probably want to pull apart and lay out as required. Work out what relays you need and where you are going to mount them.

Fit up the heater and demisters before you do the dashboard so you don't end up with oil pressure pipes, choke cables, etc wanting to pass through the demister vents. You can then take the heater out to get to the bakc of the dashboard.

Consider fitting some heat sheilding material on the engine bulkhead behind where the manifold will go.

One thing is puzzling me - why hasn't the subframe got the bit of metal with the handbrake cable guide channels on it?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 10th, 2010, 20:28:49
Reply: 26

Richard, I'm picking up some MPi fuel lines in the near future - hopefully they'll be pretty close (in length/fit), but even if they aren't I'll be able to use the connections for the fuel rail.
The shell has the (single) rear brake pipe fitted, which I'll have to revisit and resecure (IVA dictates clips no more than 12" apart for fuel & brake lines, I think).
I'll follow your advice regarding the wiper assembly, heater etc.
I'll have to have a look at the rear subframe on my mini to identify the handbrake brackets you're refering to  :-/.




Then the electrickery  :o

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 19th, 2010, 21:01:12
Reply: 27

Been away last week, so I've spent this evening in the garage trying to keep my hands busy and do something constructive, so I've built up the inlet manifold:

I'll be putting on the 52mm throttle body currently fitted to my mini, and the injectors will be cleaned or changed for larger ones, but thats another job done!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 12th, 2010, 17:50:13
Reply: 28

Well, having seen Lee's car on the road, I thought I'd better put in an update to show I am doing something  :P
Got some more bits through the post a little while ago:

The springs for the front are stiffer than those for the rear (as per last winters mag, I think).  I'll see how this handles - if it proves a bit soft it should be quite easy to change for harder springs, or perhaps fit a rear anti-roll bar.  I've heard good things about the Gaz shocks too.  These are standard height items - I'm not going for the lowered look.  There a lot of 'cliff-face' speed ramps down my street.  I don't want to pull the exhaust off every time I go over them!  I have started to build up the front subframe with these but one of the plastic cups hasn't seated properly (I might be getting a bit of hydrostatic lock effect from being a bit generous with the grease!) so I'll have to strip it down again, when I get my garage back!
I now know what was meant about grinding the GRP and all the white dust!  And I was only doing a very small area!  It took me a while to find a cheapish workbench which had a reasonable weight capacity but eventually got the shell raised:

Once safely up, I was able to prepare the edges of the trailor damaged holes.  The drivers side wasn't too bad so was repaired from underneath:

(This is before the repair)
The passenger side had gone through to the interior so I cut through and chamfered the edges prior to repairing from inside the car (no point in working against gravity!):

(This is mid repair)
You'll notice I haven't mentioned the loom hole in the bulkhead.  I thought I'd work out the best route for the electrics first.  Who knows - I don't intend to use that hole but........  I can always fill it in later.
I also cleaned up the fuel lines:

I was hoping to get these fitted this weekend, but after having a look at the shell and considering things over a cup of tea, I haven't got around to it yet.  I need to reposition the shell (safely) on the wood/workbenches in order to allow me to offer up the solid pipes prior to drilling holes and securing them.  I will have to cut the pipes at the rear because of the different shape of the MM to a mini shell.  (Lee (anyone?) did you use flexible pipe to join the fuel lines together?  Who supplied it, and any problems with IVA on this?).  I also need to find out how these pipes are secured to the shell - by this I mean, when viewed from underneath the retaining clips have a plastic, cross-headed screw head but I don't know what fits into the top of these (from inside the shell).  I can't see a screw thread in the plastic, but that would seem the obvious solution (if so, what is the thread?).  I did pull up the carpet quickly on the mpi but couldn't see the answer (too much tape in the way!).
I also need to come up with a solution to problem of fuelling the thing.  I found on the net a guy who has adapted a van tank to accept the mpi pump internally (horizontally mounted), but I'm not sure I want to cut up the new tank I've now got my hands on.  I realise a return will have to be put in, also a breather at the highest point (for the carbon canister) but there must be a relatively simple solution using an external in line fuel pump and filter.  Any ideas anyone, of a fuel system (Garry, Wil - any experience from the forced induction world?  They must need 3bar-ish of pressure to fuel them?)
So much for getting the shell out of my mothers garage - mine is bursting with boxes (extension still not built).  This could take some time..........
But I did get something put on - the wiper spindles:


Building at last  ;D

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: October 12th, 2010, 20:12:02
Reply: 29

Nice bit of progress there. :)

Will be interesting to see how the coil springs work out.

Your wiper spindles look very flat to the body work, mine are more parallel to the windscreen.

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: October 12th, 2010, 21:31:13
Reply: 30

I'm with Neil on the spindles, except don't you mean at 90 degrees to the windscreen? I've a single Metro wiper, again at 90 degrees to the screen. Do the spacer grommets need turning round a bit?

All my white dust, and the rest of the garage, is now a delicate shade of pale blue!

Posted by: admin Posted on: October 12th, 2010, 23:09:38
Reply: 31

Yes the wiper spindles should be leaning forwards but not as much as on the tin Mini, so the spacers need to be filed down a bit to reduce the angle.

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: October 13th, 2010, 08:08:15
Reply: 32

Thanks for that Peter, brain fuzz I'm afraid. I should have put 90deg.

As Richard has said you need to cut/file the spacers to get the angle right, it takes a bit of trial and error, so it's good if you have a few spare.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 13th, 2010, 11:13:02
Reply: 33

Totally agree with the spindle comments!  I thought that as soon as I uploaded the picture - it looks more obvious in the picture than when I was actually at the car (I fitted it a month or so ago).
However, I'm pretty sure I'll have to file out the holes in the bodywork, not just alter the spacers - the spindles are quite a snug fit in the holes if I remember correctly.  And I've got an idea about modifying the actual wiper arms too (not to get around this problem I should add!).

How does the saying go - one step forward..........  ;D

Posted by: Lee Pashley Posted on: October 13th, 2010, 18:24:29
Reply: 34

I made up a new fuel line for mine, but only had 1 (carb engine) .Might be a bit tight to get the 3 fuel lines & the brake line up the chanel in the body.I fixed my fuel pipes with P clips held on with rivnuts into the body & hex drive bolts, they need to be fixed every 30 cm for the IVA.I used normal flexible fuel hose from my local motor factor(just made sure it marked as fuel hose ,for the IVA).For your fuel pump try a vauxhall artraGTE ,caviler SRI or nova GTE they had external fuel pump with filter & pressure reg , monted as one unit at the back of the car, might be a bit difficult to find one has most of them rusted away year s ago.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 2nd, 2010, 11:36:23
Reply: 35

Right!  I got a couple of hours on the car this weekend and managed to get the car re-mounted on the workbenches, which has allowed me to offer up the fuel lines.

Lee, you're right - they won't fit in the channel in the floorpan.  But what it looks like I will be able to do is put them up against the bulkhead (as per the MPi, between the bulkhead and the steering rack (I'll have to watch for rubbing on the rack gaiter.  How will this affect IVA/reliability of the gaiter :-/) - it's handy having an MPi to compare/contrast) and then by mounting them at an angle, I'll be able to make use of the angled channel at the front of the rear subframe position.  This is about the position I'll have to rebend and cut the pipes and use reinforced, flexible piping to the pump/filter/tank.  I'll probably have to modify the pipe work where it ends at the bulkhead too - it looks to sit higher up the body crossmember (that the tower bolts mount to) than on the mini for some reason.  I'll put a picture up of all this when I'm next up home.
As for mounting the pipes (every 30cm maximum, as mentioned), I've got the MPi plastic mounts, which I'm looking to modify to take (zinc coated) nuts, bolts and penny washers.  But in order to try and ensure a water tight seal can I use a silicon (bathroom?) sealant - any suggestions?
And does anyone know where I can get a selection of olives from (not Tesco/asda/Morrisons  ;)) to sweat onto the end of the cut pipes?

Next question is about mounting the OSF (RHD!) damper upper mount.  The passenger side mount had been fitted by Acespeed.  On the 'inner wing' at the end of the bulkhead crossmember there is a horizontally mounted 2" by 1/2" plate bonded in, which has a threaded hole at each end (I'm hoping you can picture this, Lee, if not anyone else!).  What Acespeed has done is drill through one of these threaded holes and used that as a mounting hole (and then used this as the template for drilling the other three holes - does that make sense?).  Now I could do that for the drivers side, but is there any way of knowing that this is the correct position?  And is there likely to be much variation of the plate position in the 'inner wing' from left side to right?  Basically, how do I know that the upper damper mount if fitted in the correct place, and how do I get the other side in the same position - why didn't I just say that in the first place ::)
While I think about the damper mount, Acespeed reinforced the lower screw positions with a small metal plate.  Seems sensible - there is only a relatively thin piece of (flexible) GRP there otherwise, so I'll look to do the same, but where do you get a sheet of steel from (didn't used to be a problem getting small offcuts when I used to get my hands dirty  ;) but I've tryed Googling sheet metal suppliers/ metal workers etc etc but only seem to find scrap metal merchants or fancy garden gate manufacturers!

Lee, I think we must have different bowls for the headlights - both my inner wings will need cutting.  Did you say you used Rivnuts to hold these in or pop-rivets?

Last question (for now) - is it okay to use Acetone on the paintwork?  Where the fuel cap fits, Acespeed must've glued on a foam backing which has then partially come off when the caps been removed.  I want to clean this off before refitting another cap.

Phew - need a cup of tea now!  Oh, and aren't orange cars becoming common all of a sudden:
http://www.evo.co.uk/news/evonews/254020/hamilton_and_button_drive_new_mclaren_at_goodwood.html#

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 2nd, 2010, 14:59:34
Reply: 36

And if anyone can find a 3"/75mm LED stop/tail and indicator light set, let me know!

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: November 2nd, 2010, 15:23:11
Reply: 37

Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted November 2nd, 2010, 14:59:34 at here
And if anyone can find a 3"/75mm LED stop/tail and indicator light set, let me know!



That's a tricky one, we're close, guessing you will already have seen these

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/95mm-led-stop-tail-and-indicator-pair-rl40-3814-p.asp


Posted by: admin Posted on: November 2nd, 2010, 23:13:24
Reply: 38

Also try
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/Led-rearlight.html
85mm, but getting closer.

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: November 3rd, 2010, 08:38:11
Reply: 39

80 mm but not LED, alhough I think normal lights will be more in keeping with a Mini Marcos

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/hella-small-stoptail.html

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: November 3rd, 2010, 08:41:07
Reply: 40

Quoted from admin, posted November 2nd, 2010, 23:13:24 at here
Also try
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/Led-rearlight.html
85mm, but getting closer.



But 140 mm dia


Posted by: Rodger Howard Posted on: November 3rd, 2010, 08:42:16
Reply: 41

Don't use acetone on paintwork, use prepsol.

Posted by: admin Posted on: November 3rd, 2010, 11:23:53
Reply: 42

Quoted from Stuart, posted November 3rd, 2010, 08:41:07 at here


But 140 mm dia





True. There are some other possibilities here:
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/lights_rear.html

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 3rd, 2010, 15:34:55
Reply: 43

I should add, the reason I'm after 3" lights is, Acespeed had fitted the 70mm Land Rover type (ish) rounded lights ( http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/land-rover-lights.html - like these).  I had seen some 95mm LED type lights that I'd liked, but when putting a couple of 95mm discs on the rear panel centred on the holes as cut, they didn't look 'right' - it was possible to fit them in by re-centreing the holes (and there by not having to fill/respray the rear panel).
But when I stood back and looked at the panel, the position of the lights looked 'right' (that word again!), so I'm quite keen to retain the original hole positions if possible.
And while the lights don't have to be LED, I do like the look of these (along with the brightness, low power consumption and longevity) and want to have a flat lens look.  I've also looked at the possibility of fitting LED bulbs, but its the 3"/75mm bulb holder/lens which looks to be the problem.  (I'm now looking at Chinese/American websites advertising truck marker lights - you can get some good deals if you order a minimum of 200  ;D)

ETA Rodger, where can I get ahold of Prepsol then?

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: November 4th, 2010, 15:16:29
Reply: 44

I'd not realised you wanted 3 seperate lights either side. If you could mount these so just the lens protrudes through the body with a seal around, you could even angle them so they are in a vertical position too.

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/U-Bright_inners.html

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 4th, 2010, 20:29:44
Reply: 45

Stuart, that pic was for illustrative purposes only - this is the rear panel:

I'm after two lights per side - indicator and brake/tail.  You can see the fog / reverse lights fitted but I'll also need to position two reflectors, of course.
This is the Heritage demonstrator:

I like the flat, round LED look (I know Richard's not so keen...), so could reposition 95mm items to 'cover' the existing holes but they may look squashed.  Perhaps the answer is to use the existing round bulb holders for the traditional look, but with LED bulbs for that modern twist  ::).
Who'd have thought finding a suitable light cluster would be so hard - I've obviously got too much time on my hands   :)

Posted by: chris clarke Posted on: November 4th, 2010, 23:07:44
Reply: 46

what about these they are 95mm,standard bulbs but i believe you can get them in led.Mine are wipac brought from kit car show a few years ago but at knebworth this year i brought some the same in durite packets,amber part no 0-768-18, stop/tail part no 0-768-18.hope this helps. sorry picture not too clear its a bit tight in the garage and did'nt want to put it out in rain

Posted by: chris clarke Posted on: November 4th, 2010, 23:16:26
Reply: 47

heres a long distance shot

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 2nd, 2010, 19:35:57
Reply: 48

More bits arrived:
Cinq rad

decieded on these rear lights (similar to the demonstrators), a bit bigger than I would like (95mm - I may have to fill and re-paint the rear panel):

They have a lip so I could bond them in to give a water tight seal, but the central light is removable and has a small circumfrencial (can't spell that!) gap which could let in water:

And this:

An SW5i with suitable (double) valve springs:

Didn't get anything done this last weekend when I was up home - this is going to take forever! What the longest recorded build?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 20th, 2011, 22:28:57
Reply: 49

The cylinder heads complete, assembled, chambers mearsured (23cc +- 0.1cc).  This takes care of the exhaust side:

From Specialist Components, stainless and going to be wrapped in exhaust heat wrap.  I've also got some ceramic/ali heat shielding from Zircotec, to be attached to the bulkhead/transmission tunnel (Zircoflex I think it's called).
I've stuck the MPi fuel lines stuck onto the bottom of the shell.  I can't use the channel moulded into the floorpan except at the incline at the rear, which is just forward of where I had to cut the pipes.

I've also been attacking the shell, putting holes into it:

Can anyone give any recommendations for pop rivets to use?  Or am I best off using small zinc coated nuts/bolts?  Lee - didn't you use Riv-nuts?
Oh, and sorry if these pictures turn out poorly - they were taken on the phone(!!!)

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: February 20th, 2011, 23:24:17
Reply: 50

Here is a photo of the pipes fitting

Smaller clips perhaps ?



Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 21st, 2011, 16:56:15
Reply: 51

Neil, thats how I would mount them if I wasn't using the MPi lines (I'm still tempted to make my own up though  :-/) except there are three - supply, return and charcoal cannister.  I want to use the MPi lines if possible because they have the correct fitting for the fuel rail connections (plus I have them!).  When they're bolted to the floor they will pull up closer to the floorpan than in the picture - the tape was just to give me an idea of where they would sit.  In addition I can fit the pipe protector that the MPi's have where the pipes pass from the bulkhead to the floorpan, and by using the recess at the rear, they will be that little bit higher/protected.
One other thing - the pipes run between the bulkhead and steering rack and it's very tight ( the pipes contact the gaiter).  I'm not sure how IVA will view this - I take it this is the normal position for these pipes?

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: February 21st, 2011, 17:06:57
Reply: 52

Any point in extending one of  the pipes to have it fitting in the channel with the break line ?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 21:05:46
Reply: 53

Right, I decided to mount the fuel lines today - after all, its only a 6mm hole!  This is the result:

As thought, doing the nuts up pulled the pipes in tighter to the body.  And I've spaced the clips evenly at 10".  I thought about shortening the protruding part of the bolt, but chose to put an extra (nyloc) nut on instead thinking if it was to ground out this may at least give it some extra protection.  What do you think - is it still going to be too low?
I also offered up the Cinq radiator:

I placed it on both sides of the bulkhead (it could fit quite snuggly on the engine side) but I think this is the better option (there's pictures of other peoples fitments on here somewhere - I'l do a search), what I'm thinking now is, if I mount the rad as in the picture should I extend the cutout which was put in for the oil cooler, putting in a radius at both ends?

Would this weaken the panel noticeably?
ETA I must remember to take my camera next time I work on the car!

Posted by: admin Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 21:21:29
Reply: 54

The fuel lines look a bit vulnerable. I'd be inclined to run them inside the car even if that means you have to glas over them.

Have you tried laying the radiator down over the hole at the front, whith the electric fan behind it? That will leave more room to get at the distributor, starter motor, oil filter, etc.

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 21:44:22
Reply: 55

Hello, as Admin suggests, leaning the radiator forward will give much better access and force more air through the radiator.



If you look where the front panel has been cut away, you'll see the dizzy and the starter motor would be very close to the panel. By leaning it forward, I was able to drop the engine in from the top. I just had to turn it through 45 degrees to slide it in. With the rad vertical, it wouldn't have been possible.

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 22:07:35
Reply: 56

My radiator is parallel to the lower panel rather than vertical.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 22:23:56
Reply: 57

Glad to see everyone else is enjoying a thrilling Saturday night too!  ;D
Richard, I was worried that the pipes would be vunerable too, but they've pulled up quite tight to the shell and I'm not lloking at lowering the car too much.  But I will see when the car's ever on its wheels, and may make up my own pipes to run through the channel in the floorpan, and use only the pipe ends (for the fuel rail connections).
Peter, Neil, I did place the rad against the inclined panel to see what the fit would be like.  It did look as if a fair bit of the rad would be shielded by the bodywork, hence my thinking the verticle position, on the front face of the bulkhead would be best (with a fan fitted to the front face) while opening up the cutout for maximum effectiveness, but I'm prepared to change my mind!  I'll dig out the Cinq rad thread and look at the pictures on that (probably your picture again Peter!) and have another fit up next time I'm up here.
While I'm thinking about it, does anyone have any overheating problems with an inclined Cinq rad?  Maybe I'm imagining problems which aren't there!
Oh, and I don't have a distributor to worry about Richard (only the coil pack)!  But the oil filter's a good point!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 22:48:32
Reply: 58

Found it!
http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?b=GB,m=1284065290,s=all
Looks like against the inclined face is the way to go!

Posted by: admin Posted on: February 27th, 2011, 09:19:27
Reply: 59

Another advantage of leaning the rad forwards is that the air flow on the engine side is much better, particularly if you cut back the fibreglass as Peter has done. The Cinq rad may be too tall to lie down flat but you'll get plenty of air through it. You can put some fibreglass in  to stop the air leaking around the side. The front opening is going to shovel just as much air in whichever way the rad is fitted.

Posted by: Olly Lewis Posted on: February 27th, 2011, 18:23:43
Reply: 60

Also on the radiator front I TIGed up an aluminium number plate bracket which mounts just below the hole in the bottom front panel encouraging more air into/through the radiator and helping reduce the amount of air being directed under the car. This makes the number plate an aero aid!!!!

Although I feel that the amount of performence gain and cooling capability hasn't gone up much if at all! ??)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 13th, 2011, 13:01:29
Reply: 61

Right, managed a frustrating couple of hours in the garage this morning.  Got the car on the floor again, so was able to get inside the car again to attack the wiper mech.
The conclusion I've come to is that the holes for the spindles are in the wrong place!  By this I mean, the holes would appear to be slightly to wide apart, given the length of the longer centre tube (covering the 'spring' drive from the motor).  This in itself isn't too much of a problem - I could enlarge the holes inwards slightly to accomodate this (it is only very slightly too narrow), but...
It's the flat metal pieces which clamp the tubes/spindles together which are interfering with the shape of the underside of the scuttle.  I've played around with spare wiper mech that I have (hasn't everyone got a spare one of these, or is it just me?  :)), turning the plates the other way around but still they interfere.  So my conclusion is that the holes need to be further down the scuttle panel towards the bonnet.  As it is, the holes are about an inch away from the bonnet shut line:

I'm going to look at the gallery and see if theres a clear picture in there somewhere.
Then I decided to take the steering column off to give me more room to manouvre underneath - that took some doing, it obviously hasn't been off for a good while, but eventually it gave in and I couldn't resist quickly fitting the MPi one in:

I didn't notice it at the time, but in the picture the column looks quite noticeably offset to the left (more so than in a mini) - is this the norm?  In the picture the column isn't clamped up (to the dash rail mount), just positioned on the spline.  I don't fancy forcing the column over - won't that just stress the spline and increase the steering effort/wear?
I also offered up the MPi heater.  There'll be some slight fitting to that too, but it looks much more straight forward.
Finally, I had a further look at fitting the LHF upper damper mount.  Without a pin vice to hand I quickly worked up a blister before conceding that I'll have to remove the servo to get decent access to the area requiring drilling!  Oh well..... onward and upward!

On a plus note, I got the concrete base for my new shed laid yesterday.  Hopefully the shed'll be built by the time I'm next up here.  Then at long last I might be able to clear out the garage and use it as a place for work  ;D

ETA Just had a thought - it's probably me being stupid!  Could it be that the clocks are offset right in the car (compared to a mini).  Guess I could try and mock up a seat position and see if its comfortable.

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: March 13th, 2011, 19:26:15
Reply: 62

You could shorten the middle tube and flare the ends with a brake pipe flare kit, the sort Frost sells. Or judicious use of a ball pein hammer....
Or make a new one with 10mm copper pipe,

Posted by: Lee Pashley Posted on: March 13th, 2011, 22:09:07
Reply: 63

Fitting my wiper linkage was a right pig of a job .My wiper spindle boxes hit the front edge of the dash below the windsceen.I had to cut 2 slots in the front top edge of the dash to get the spindle boxes to fit . I then had to cover the top of the dash in black vinyl to hide the spindle boxes

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 14th, 2011, 08:08:51
Reply: 64

Hi Lee, that sounds like the exact problem I have!  I take it then, that the holes for the spindles are put in by Heritage?
The dash fabric has already been fitted to my car - looks like I might have to redo that!  And good idea about the longer tube Peter, that might prove useful.  Hopefully the spring drive would be long enough to accomodate it.
I did think if there was a similar mechanism with longer spindles I could mount them below the dash rail and they would still extend far enough for the wipers to mount.
I'll have another look today - I'm off this morning to remove the servo and drill the holes to ffit the damper mount.

Posted by: Lee Pashley Posted on: March 14th, 2011, 16:17:33
Reply: 65

The holes was marked out buy heritage.The spindles look alot closer on mine than yours ,I had to shorten the center tube by quite a bit.I also had to file down the angled washers to get the nuts on.When I got the windscreen from heritage (10 days before the IVA ,nothing like cutting it fine) found the wiperarms where to short & blades to small.I ended up going around a scrapyard 2 day before the IVA test trying to find some longer wiper arms .I think I used some off a Rover P6 with 13 inch blades.

Posted by: Lee Pashley Posted on: March 14th, 2011, 16:22:13
Reply: 66

 

Posted by: Allan Brown Posted on: March 14th, 2011, 20:48:42
Reply: 67

You might want to change the angle of the rubber washers around the spindle. As the windscreen is laid back a lot more in the Marcos compared to the Mini. This will increase the pressure of the wipers on the windscreen. The wheel boxes will then be flatter to the fibreglass hopefully giving more clearance of the dash.

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: March 14th, 2011, 21:20:50
Reply: 68

That's why I used a Metro set-up with just one, central wiper. It still took a lot of setting up though  ::)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 24th, 2011, 20:57:40
Reply: 69

Well, I was all set for a day on the car only to discover this morning, my tools had been nicked from the garage!!!
Angry doesn't come close  >:(

Posted by: admin Posted on: March 25th, 2011, 09:23:42
Reply: 70

Sorry to hear that Graham, I know the sickening feeling when you find out. I once had a toolbox stolen out of my Mini Van, but that was a long time ago. I didn't have a garage at the time.

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: March 25th, 2011, 10:34:44
Reply: 71

Yo have my sympathies Graham. Had my flat robbed three years ago (I was at a charity event at the time) and it's a horrible feeling.

Posted by: Olly Lewis Posted on: March 25th, 2011, 19:40:02
Reply: 72

thieving b!£$%&ds

I had my garage broken into aswell two years ago, they stole my prized snap-on imperial ratcheting spanners, that were new and a blue point 1/4" drive socket set. Was at least £300's worth. Police man said nothing apart from "probably gypsies"!!!!!!!!

arseholes. I feel for you.

Your welcome to my tool set if your near me?

Olly

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 25th, 2011, 20:20:30
Reply: 73

Cheers Guys - if theres a silver lining to this cloud its the fact that the garage is SO messy at the minute.  When I went through it, I found my box of mini tools (hub/flywheel/ball joint sockets etc), and my torque wrenches were where they were left.  So not too bad really.  And I've got a new socket set out of it.  Oh and more locks on the garage!  When the shed eventually gets built I'll get that alarmed too!
So at least I've been able to do something today - put the RHF top damper mount on:

More phone pics I'm afraid (they're quite handy really :))
I would've attacked the wiper mech but (guess what?) need to ask your collective opinion before I attack the fibreglass.
I need to take the dash top out, which means removing the windscreen - is there a special knack to this, or is it just a case of taking the filler strip out and push out (starting in a corner presumably)?  I've got the heated screen to go back in eventually (thanks Roger) but would like to keep this scren intact if possible.  And I'm resigned to the fact that I'll need to cut the material to get at the screws holding the dash top on  ::).
Anyway, I offered up the wiper mech to the holes in the scuttle with the wheel boxes either way round.  This looks the best way to me:

as opposed to this, which would require a lot more cutting I think:

Does this seem right?  I have found out that the early mini's had smaller wheel boxes - don't think I can wait to find some of them though!
And I did get another job finished today:

It's quite Heath Robinson, but it made us laugh today!

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: March 25th, 2011, 23:18:58
Reply: 74

Hello, no great knack to removing the screen. Mine was in and out like a fiddler's elbow! I just pull out the filler strip, spray some diluted washing up liquid around the edge. Then using a filler strip inserting tool I gently lift the rubber in one corner and push that corner from the inside. Once it starts to come out it's very quick and easy. I expect you can use a screwdriver, the insertion tool has rounder edges.

Posted by: admin Posted on: March 26th, 2011, 08:29:49
Reply: 75

I'd agree with that. The screen should pop out at one of the top corners first. Run a blunt knife round the screen on both sides to break the seal. Apply gentle pressure on the inside of the screen, but take it slowly and ease the screen out gently.

The small wheelboxes go with the wire-wound wiper motor which has a square section body. The larger boxes go with the permanent magnet motor which has a round body. There are versions with different numbers of teeth as well as different main gears for the motor unit so you may need do a bit of trial and error to get the sweep right. I lkie the single wiper idea using a Metro arm.

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: March 26th, 2011, 18:03:27
Reply: 76

The earlier wiper boxes were 22 tooth whereas the usual ones are 32 tooth, so the blades travel way further with a later wiper motor - definately the box to have with a single wiper - both use the same cable so no problems there. Mini Spares amongst others sell them but they are about twice the price of the usual ones. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=33220&title=

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 31st, 2011, 14:25:09
Reply: 77

Nothing further to report (should get some time on the car next week), just an observation - when I did sit in the car last week, I sat centrally in the drivers seat 'channel', and the steering column is definitely sitting towards the centre of the car!
Doing a search shows some have used a UJ on the column - is this to overcome the offset problem?
Does the seat mount vertically on the right hand side, and horizontally on the left (i.e. attached to the top of the transmission tunnel) therefore positioned more to the centre of the car?
It just seems odd, thats all  :-/
Lee did you have to cut the hole for the rack to poke through into the cabin?  It could've been cut in the wrong place I suppose (steering arms look to be equal on each side (not very scientific that though!).

Posted by: Lee Pashley Posted on: March 31st, 2011, 20:34:45
Reply: 78

The holes were pre cut from heritage on mine.My steering wheel is off set to the center of the car too ,you soom get use to it ,I don"t even notice now.I looked at moving the coluum more to right but decided not to because I thought it better to leave the coluum standard for the IVA .

Posted by: admin Posted on: March 31st, 2011, 21:07:14
Reply: 79

Son't you need to have a collapsible column for the IVA? I thought you could use an energy-absorbing collapsible boss or a couple of UJs in the shaft. You don't need a UJ otherwise.

The front subframe mountings are slightly offset to one side (unless Rory has corrected the jigs, which I doubt) so you'll find that the track rod end adjustments are different each side or you have more lock one side than the other.

The seats should face straight ahead. The Mini steering column is always at a slight angle like that, but as Lee says you don't notice it after a bit. I don't understand what you mean by the seat mount. The seat runners just bolt onto the floor, but you might want to raise them a bit so that the runners slide over the carpet (if you're trimming the interior).

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 1st, 2011, 16:41:27
Reply: 80

Cheers Lee, Richard.  An offset wheel it is then.
Which does mean I won't have to woory about the seat (or my poor description of how I thought about mounting it  ;D)
And I'm pretty certain that the collapsable element is integral (internal) to the column.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 4th, 2011, 07:44:06
Reply: 81

Bit of a change of plan - got the frame built for my shed yesterday.  Now got 300m of shiplap board to creosote for the walls, so not much will get done on the car this week I fear!

I think my mother's dreaming of getting her garage back already  ;D

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: April 4th, 2011, 07:50:45
Reply: 82

How you gonna get the Marcos in? Or are you also fitting bi-folding doors to the lounge?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 4th, 2011, 14:10:28
Reply: 83

What?  You mean it won't fit  :P
I'm just looking forward to sorting the garage out so it can be a useful working space again.
Actually, if I can keep the shed organised and set it up as a clean area, it may well become the engine build area (once the power's in, alarms on etc etc).
So much to do!
At least if it doesn't rain too hard, I can treat the timber undercover!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 6th, 2011, 19:45:56
Reply: 84

So - does this look about right?

I hope so 'cause its been a right pain in the backside to do!
However, one step forward, one step back....
See the stripped thread?

I moved the servo to fit the damper mount and when I took the nut off, the spring washer nearly launched the nut!  From the rust on the stud its been like that for a while.
Another picture of it:

Is the plate that has the studs (for the servo and reservoir) replaceable?  Or should I try and cut a smaller thread?  :-/

Posted by: Allan Brown Posted on: April 6th, 2011, 20:05:18
Reply: 85

Those threads are welded to the pedal box.
I wouldn't cut a smaller thread, the last thing you want is for those threads to break or strip whilst breaking hard, you will lose all your brakes then.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 6th, 2011, 21:00:16
Reply: 86

Ahh, that makes sense (never taken a pedal box out before).  So - new pedal box, or is drilling out and a (lock) nut and bolt an option Allan?

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: April 7th, 2011, 07:25:22
Reply: 87

You could get a new bolt/stud welded onto your pedal-box

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 1st, 2011, 20:51:13
Reply: 88

Well, the sheds still not finished - deceided I couldn't wait any longer and rearranged the garage as best I could to at least get something done!
So started to build up the rear subframe:

I was going to put the radius arms on, but think it might be easier to mount the subframe as it is (lighter, yes?) and put the arms on later.  I can then build up the radius arms with the back plates on the bench too.
ETA  Whats the thread that will hold the rear adjustable brackets to the subframe - the vertical ones (screwed in form below) look around 3/8", the horizontal ones, smaller.  Also the plates which fit either end of the radius arm pin have a cannular set in them (offset on one), which goes on which end?
Richard, you mentioned earlier in this thread that you couldn't make out the handbrake cable bracket, yes?  By this are you referring to a small bracket on the underside of the subframe front crossbeam (sort of an elongated 'n' shape)?
As you can see, I've had the radius arms bearings reamed out.

Taking a leaf out of Stuart's book:
Quoted from Stuart, posted April 7th, 2011, 07:25:22 at here
You could get a new bolt/stud welded onto your pedal-box


I took off the pedal box - I've got some 8mm stud bar left over which should be suitable (there'll be a nice mix of metric & imperial by the end of the build) and I've been told of a fabricator not too far away who I'll have a chat with, but tonight's question is:  Should the plate which mounts on the engine side of the bulkhead (which has the brake actuating rod through it in this picture) be flat?  Mine is slightly bent on one corner (hope the picture shows this) and seems as if the two plates are pulling apart.

If it's meant to be like that I'll just clean it up ready for reassembly.


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 5th, 2011, 20:41:29
Reply: 89

Didn't realise there was such a colour as 'McLaren Orange', but it does look bloody good!
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?f=23&t=999221&nmt=RE%3A+New+McLaren+Racer+To+Cost+%26%23163%3B310k#topicTop
Hope mine turns out that good  ;D

Posted by: Gert-Jan Westerveld Posted on: May 11th, 2011, 20:19:00
Reply: 90

Looking good keep it up  8) Graham

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 12th, 2011, 19:36:29
Reply: 91

Well, not to much to report, except that with the help of my nephews my mother now has her garage back:

And I've got a new job!  But it does mean long hours and a lot of travel so I'm not too sure how much time I'll have to get the build completed.  But at least now I can pop out of an evening, as and when!  But I did get half an hour in there this afternoon, and refitted the newly repaired pedal box:

Obviously I didn't degrease the plate properly  :-/

Posted by: dalla Posted on: June 13th, 2011, 00:10:23
Reply: 92

Looks very nice sitting there in the garage. Iam jealous mate.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 10th, 2011, 20:49:58
Reply: 93

Couldn't work on my college  project so started building the rear subframe this afternoon:

I guess its an copy part, not an original because I had to do a fair bit of fitting to make things fit (opening up holes and the like).
Richard, I take it this is the bracket you mentioned earlier in the thread, for the handbrake cable?  Are they available seperately, or does anyone have an old subframe they've changed recently?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 11th, 2011, 19:12:05
Reply: 94

I stripped one of the old rear hubs that I have, now that I've started on the rear subframe only to discover that its the old ball bearing type, as opposed to the taper roller bearing type that I'm more familiar with.
Am I okay to regrease and reuse these?  Would I be better off with the taper ball race?  Is the basic hub the same (I haven't taken the bearing outer race, only the inner and ball bearings), so that I could fit tapers?
Cheers!

Posted by: Joost van Dien Posted on: July 19th, 2011, 08:34:46
Reply: 95

Reuse old bearing is not my favourite, but if the balls are not coroded/ pitted/ cracked or oval and the bearing cage is in good condition you could give them a good clean and use them again. When I refurbished my rear hubs I also found ball bearings, I took them out and replaced them with the tapper type, no problem at all. The only thing is, when you push or glently hammer (with a drift) the race in position, make sure you don't hit the race with your drift. The edge of the race is quite thin.

cheers  

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 21st, 2011, 20:24:52
Reply: 96

Cheers Joost - I take it they hub itself is the same?  And is the spacer the same for both types of bearings?
Well the new job may prevent me getting into the garage much but at least it allows me to pay for these:

Not quite the Imola S (or Pro as it is now) - the job doesn't pay that well!  They are Monaco Pro, very similar in dimension to the Imola (which was important) but with a steel frame, not composite.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 29th, 2011, 16:15:52
Reply: 97

Can I ask for some opinions here?
I was looking at the rear hubs with a view to building up with the new bearings that I've got and noticed this - the edge seems to have been 'fractured' off:

Looking at the edge itself, it doesn't actually appear to have been broken off:

Can I use these or not?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 30th, 2011, 16:07:37
Reply: 98

Well, I knackered the vacuum motors on the flow bench so went into the garage.
I managed to (loosely) mount the wiper motor - I used an existing hole in the bulkhead.  When I've got things positioned I'll secure everything properly and put some silicon in the holes to water proof them.
I also offered up the heater unit:

Not remembering what Richard recommended was next I attempted to fit the headlight bowls.  The plastic bowls I've got have come with screws and securing clips (as opposed to the rivits I was expecting to use), but am I right in thinking I'll have to drill a hole for the adjuster screws to go through?  I tried to compare it with my MPi, but its' headlight bowl is a little different having motor height adjustment.  And is it only the chrome surround that holds the lens in place?  I seem to remember my old mini having some sort of spring arrangement.
And does it matter where the adjustment screws are positioned (as in at the 12 o-clock position)?

And would anyone out there use those rear hubs?

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: August 30th, 2011, 18:36:17
Reply: 99

I'd use those hubs. I also know someone who cuts off parts of the hub with an angle grinder to loose a bit of weight.

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: August 30th, 2011, 19:28:31
Reply: 100

Hello, on my headlamp bowls I had to drill two clearance holes for the adjuster for each bowl. They were positioned at 9 (or 3) o'clock and 12 o'clock. That way you can adjust for up and down as well as side to side.
The chrome rim around the lens had two tabs each with an angled slot and one tab with a hole. You slide the slotted tabs onto the adjusters (they have a effectively two heads 1 mm apart) and put a screw through the third tab.
Screwing the adjusters in an out moves the lens, they pivot about the retaining screw.
You'll have to squint but you can see the larger adjuster holes, both sides at 12 o'clock, offside 9 o'clock and nearside 3 o'clock



With my heater I made a lot of work for myself by swopping over the intake to the nearside. I also made up some diverters for the screen demister vents so that the plastic demister funnel laid flat against the top of the dashboard rather than poking down. It allowed the demister trunking to have a better run from the heater.

My hubs looked like that too

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 3rd, 2011, 14:36:50
Reply: 101

Cheers Stuart, Peter - I'll get the rear hubs built up then.
And get the bowls fitted.  As for the heater inlet, it's an MPi twin speed heater which has the inlet on the nearside already.  I haven't drilled the holes through the bulkhead yet (but theres lots of time for that yet!)

ETA Put the new wheel studs in and offered up the minifin drums (with inbuilt spacer).  Theres only 12mm of stud protruding which (from memory) seems less than the MPi.  Does 12mm seem right to you?

Posted by: admin Posted on: September 3rd, 2011, 22:52:34
Reply: 102

No, you need more than that. That drum looks a lot taller than normal. Those studs would be OK with normal Cooper S drums or standard Super Minifins.

Btw don't buy the cheap Chinese minifin replicas as they are inaccurately made. I had to return one pair because one of the stud holes was slightly out of position and the drum clamped tightly onto the backplate when the studs were tightened up.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 5th, 2011, 18:35:01
Reply: 103

Cheers Richard.  The drum are from minispares and seem quite good items so I'll look at getting longer studs if available.
I drilled the holes to fit the bowls yesterday.  Who on earth would paint a shell before sorting out all the drilling  :-/.  I thougth I was being careful - masking tape, pilot hole etc but some paint still chipped off.  Oh well, I need to get some coloured gel coat for the scratches on the rear quarters, so will use some to fill in the chips eventually before fitting the bowls.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 7th, 2011, 11:58:14
Reply: 104

Has anyone got any pictures of their cars fuel tanks in position?  Ideally with the rear subframe in position.

Ta

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 17th, 2011, 20:46:12
Reply: 105

Bottom of the fuel tank:

How about this for a solution to the fuel starvation, and somewhere to take the fuel take off from:

No - not an orange juice carton, but if the tank were modified to have such a low point added:

Don't know if it would clear the subframe though - anyone got any pictures?
And I got the labelling machine out and started trying to identify the loom conections:

Notice I cleaned up the bulkhead hole - still unsure if I'll use it, but if I don't it doesn't really matter what shape hole I would have to fill!

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: September 18th, 2011, 07:28:47
Reply: 106

That' going to be way too low.

I'm not at home now to take a photo of my car, but to give you an idea, the flange of the fueltank is lower in the car than the top of the rear subframe, if that makes sence.

Posted by: Gert-Jan Westerveld Posted on: September 18th, 2011, 12:49:05
Reply: 107





I hope it helps.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 18th, 2011, 16:30:26
Reply: 108

Ah, now I see!  With having the car on the floor I haven't had a change to offer the tank up - it's obvious that it's to low now I see the pictures (thanks Gert, and Neil).
So it looks like I'll be trying to perhaps use this for the return:

and have a take off put in at the bottom of a vertical surface.  I'll have to look to see if there's room for a swirl pot to counter surge.
And I'll still need to have a breather from the filler to the charcoal cannister.
But we're getting there (and thanks all for the info!)

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: September 18th, 2011, 19:18:48
Reply: 109

You shouldn't need a take off at the bottom. The one in the photo should lead to a flexible pipe inside the tank with a ball weight at the end. That is standard and came with my tank, but perhaps not with yours. The inside of the standard tank should be baffled. With that set up I've never suffered problems with fuel surge when rallying. The standard tank doesn't have a return and doesn't need one.

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: September 18th, 2011, 19:43:14
Reply: 110

Quoted from jimnaylor, posted September 18th, 2011, 19:18:48 at here
The standard tank doesn't have a return and doesn't need one.



It does if you're fitting an MPI engine though  ;)


Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: September 18th, 2011, 21:38:48
Reply: 111

Here is a link to an excellent page on modifying an estate tank to use with an Mpi engine.

http://www.stallard-engineering.co.uk/stories/Minis/modifying_the_fuelling.htm

Should have all you need to know.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 20th, 2011, 16:26:22
Reply: 112

Yes Jim, injection is being fitted so I need a feed and a return plus the breather for the charcoal cannister.
Neil, I made contact some time ago with Ian Stellard - his conversion of the van tank on his clubman is very impressive and he tells me hes had 8 years of reliable running withit too.  I decided I wanted to investigate other methods though, such as using an in-line fuel pump (as opposed to in tank), and ideally incorporate a swirl pot type of system to prevent surge (Ian suffers starvation when fuel gets a little low, in left handers).  Interesting to hear you don't suffer this, Jim.
Wil Ker (sometimes of this parish!) came up with an idea - make the depth of the 'box' less, say 20mm and make the hole from the tank into the box 50mm.  This would allow a reserve of fuel in the 'box' but limit the amount of surge that could occur.  I could then have a take off on the front edge of this shallow box, and use the original supply as the return (as in the picture above and the same as Ian Stellard did).
I'll try and mock something up this weekend and see what you all think - I'm consious now of the need for ground clearance!

ETA One other thing which I wasn't too keen on, on Ian's car car the need to fit the breather on the top of the tank.  This would mean having a hole in the boot floor, which I would then need cover and seal to comply with IVA.  I'm planning on having some sort of take off on the filler pipe running down the pipe/around the tank to join up with the MPi pipe running to the cannister.

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: September 20th, 2011, 17:39:10
Reply: 113

I've certainly run it tight a few times, running out of fuel about 200m beyond the stage finish and half a mile from service once. But having a carb it does have some reserve capacity, I might not notice the occasional leaning out of the mixture. Also I run a fiter king which is above the carb so there could be some more reserve there. If you are going for an in line pump then although not a high pressure pump, I do run an electric pump mounted in the spare wheel well which is about half way up the tank. It's a problem to prime if I've emptied the tank, but no problem otherwise.

Is it possible to run the returns back into the filler neck? it would seem easier than modifying the tank.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 20th, 2011, 19:50:03
Reply: 114

Quoted from jimnaylor, posted September 20th, 2011, 17:39:10 at here
I've certainly run it tight a few times, running out of fuel about 200m beyond the stage finish and half a mile from service once.


Jim - Colin Chapman would approve!

I hadn't thought of running the return back into the filler.  This might prove a little tight space wise, I need to have the 'breather' at a high point (but as mentioned don't want to use the top of the tank).


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 13:18:27
Reply: 115

Okay so it's agreed the rad will be sloping.  

I was trying not to drill and bolt through the front panel but it looks like I'll have to - I'll try and incorporate the front panel bolts with number plate mounts.
There doesn't appear to be a direction of indicated on the rad, so space dictates the longer 'inlet' will go to the bottom (slightly more space):

But, those of you who have used the Cinq rad, there are four plastic bosses which look as if they receive screws/bolts to mount the rad.  Did you use these?  What thread (if any) is in them?  Or are they scarificial, to receive a self tapper?

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 16:21:57
Reply: 116

It uses 3 self tappers



The one arrowed is for a bleed hose so needs to be at the top if you used it or blanked off if you choose not to.

Posted by: admin Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 18:33:35
Reply: 117

I don't think my rad is actually bolted in - it just sits there. Anyway you could bond a fibreglass flange onto the inside of the number plate panel and secure the rad to that.

What about the electric fan? You'll need one if you get stuck in traffic. Is there a space for an otter switch? It looks as though there might be one on the right hand side near the top in your pics.

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 18:35:40
Reply: 118

There was a previos post on mounting the cinquecento radiator with quite a bit of info.

http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?b=GB,m=1284065290

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 18:57:44
Reply: 119

Thanks all - very useful!
I did think about bonding two wooden battens above/below the opening and screwing into that, but after looking at the MMOC Tech manual (and realising that I'll have to drill two holes for the number plate anyway) it seemed the neatest option to make brackets for the top/bottom if I could figure out a way of securing bracket to rad.
Jim, I had read that previous thread (I see I posted on it!) but must admit I'd forgotten about it  :B
Thanks for pointing out the bleed point Craig - I didn't there was a bleed incorporated into the rad.  Given that there is relatively little space in the I don't think I'll be using it though (because I'll have it mounted the other way up).
ETA Do any of you have a grill in front of the rad to protect the core?
Richard, I have a bi-directional fan.  That is, you can change the direction of the blades to suck/blow air over the core as required, so that'll sit engine side of the rad regardless of how I mount it.

Posted by: Gert-Jan Westerveld Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 20:30:41
Reply: 120

Hello I have a (gril) to protekt the core.

hope you can use the picture.


Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 21:47:11
Reply: 121

Have you seen this thread from 7 years ago !!!!

http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?b=GB,v=display,m=1098810117,s=all

Posted by: admin Posted on: October 1st, 2011, 22:25:05
Reply: 122

You don't need to drill holes in the number plate unless it's an old style ally one with plastic numbers and letters. Just use mounting tape. I stick one strip right along the top of the plate and four vertical strips down the sides and at the 1/3 and 2/3 points. That prevents any water getting trapped behind the plate.

You don't need to bother about the bleed point as long as the top pipe goes upwards from the rad. Any air will collect in the thermostat housing so you need the type with a take-off for the expansion tank or at least the one with the plastic plug on top so you can bleed it.

Posted by: David_Farmer Posted on: October 4th, 2011, 21:24:27
Reply: 123

My Marcos did have a protective grill, it is now binned as it was in a poor state. I was going to check out the ally panels that B&Q supply, as a replacement. You can see their
range on their website in:

Build -Building Materials -Materials -Metal Sheet Material -Aluminium Panel

Could be a possible solution..?

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: October 4th, 2011, 22:03:55
Reply: 124

I just used the mesh you get for building up fibreglass


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 15th, 2011, 17:50:46
Reply: 125


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 22nd, 2011, 16:26:25
Reply: 126

I received this through the post this week, from Dave Shreeve of the Mini Cooper Register:

Were these sew on badges produced by the club?  Dave's just move dhis 1800 on and found this when clearing out - it made me smile opening up the envelope  :)

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: October 22nd, 2011, 20:41:37
Reply: 127

Yes the Club still sells them, details of all parches, badges and decals that are available through the Club can be found at  http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/mmkit.html

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 3rd, 2011, 21:43:03
Reply: 128

Right decision time!  I've managed to get back in the garage, offered up the loom using that existing centre hole and taping the relays and the like in place (as per the MPi), and its now time to commit to drilling holes.
Now I don't really fancy stripping down the loom (electrics aren't really my thing!), and I'm not convinced there's enough 'slack' to route the the loom through one side if I don't, so it looks like I will be using this position.
So, how do I make this look neat:
:-/

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: December 4th, 2011, 10:28:17
Reply: 129

Could you not run the loom the other side of the dash, fit the relays and stuff inside and them you only need to come through the bulkhead on the left and right for the wipers and the starter/lights/fan.

Posted by: admin Posted on: December 4th, 2011, 11:57:18
Reply: 130

I'd go along with Neil. It doesn't look like there's much room for the carbs and air filters if you have the loom coming through the middle of the bulkhead. If you bring the two branches of the loom through the top corners of the bulkhead you can tuck it under the bonnet gutter. You may need to add extra wiring e.g. for an electric radiator fan and you'll proabably find a few places where you need to extend the wires - certainly for the rear lights. The headlamps are set further back than on a Mini so you may need to re-route the wiring for those. You may also have to add earth wires for equipment mounted on the fibreglass that would normally earth through the shell e.g. starter solenoid if used.

When I've built or rewired cars I've stripped the loom down and reassembeld it as required. I use a Lucas fuse box that sits on the bulkhead with the terminals on the back, so the wiring is under the scuttle. I ran the wiring for the lights, horns, fan etc under the wings on each side. You could use the black spiral conduit which makes it easy to update the wiring when necessary.

Is that the brake line on the right next to the two fuel lines?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 4th, 2011, 20:31:56
Reply: 131

Neil, I like the idea of running the loom on the interior side of the bulkhead.  There is a bit of wiring in there already:

There's already relays on that side too, as well as the large fuse box etc.  And there still the alarm modules to go there as well.
Richard, there's a seperate rear section to the loom for the rear lights, rear demister, fuel pump and the like, which I haven't offered up yet (one stage at a time!) and I will need to extend the cable to the fan, the brake master cylinder and the like.  And I agree - it does look as if it'll be a bit tight:

I may have stumbled across another solution - when looking at the 'give' in the cabling, I pushed the two main cables up, sitting under the slight hood at the centre of the bonnet opening.  Now, while the 'hood' diminishes towards the outer edges of the engine compartment, it sat very comfortably in that position (above the chassis plate).  I'll mock it up and let you see it before I go drilling more bulkhead holes!

Posted by: Olly Lewis Posted on: December 5th, 2011, 13:05:50
Reply: 132

Hello All,

I see no reason as to why the loom can't come through into the engine compartment apart from making the bulkhead look less busy. And, the bulkhead has more clearance than usual around where an HIF carb would foul!?
Also, to make the loom follow a better path (inside or out) simply remove the insulation tape from the loom between the intersections and reposition in the desired path, then re-tape to form that shape. I'd also put rubber protected "P" clips to position the loom. If you have to lengthen some wires just cut and solder in the required amount and heat shrink the joint. Be careful not to put too much heat into the wire when soldering as this will make the copper become brittle and could crack over time. hope that helps

Olly

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: December 5th, 2011, 17:29:11
Reply: 133

Quoted from Olly Lewis, posted December 5th, 2011, 13:05:50 at here
And, the bulkhead has more clearance than usual around where an HIF carb would foul!?



Judging by the fuse box and twin fuel lines I'd say it's going to be injection of some sort.


Posted by: Olly Lewis Posted on: December 6th, 2011, 11:04:19
Reply: 134

GOOD POINT NEIL  ::)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 6th, 2011, 21:18:01
Reply: 135

Yep - should have added, there are three fuel pipes (feed, return and charcoal) on the passenger side, the rear brake pipe goes down the drivers side currently (and probably the battery cables eventually).  When I get back to the UK I´ll mock up the loom in the ´high´position to try and illustrate what I meant - a picture paints a thousand words and all that....
I´ve got no problem extending the wires where required, but really don´t fancy the idea of stripping the loom down.  Hopefully it won´t come to that.
It would make the bulkhead area look much better to run the front loom on the interior side of the bulkhead, especially as there is an engine loom to fit in the front too (and a small rear loom as well!), but the more I look at the MPi engine bay the more I realise Rover must´ve had a ´chuck it in´attitude too  ;D

ETA the &#180 must be a peculiarity of a Norwegian keyboard!  Luckily the "Aass" beer tastes ok  ;)
Oh, and I already have some P clips.

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: December 8th, 2011, 21:42:29
Reply: 136

As you know, I used the MPI loom as well. Mostly it fitted nicely, but I didn't have enough reach for the speedo. It's best not to look in the glovebox or under the dash either - I couldn't get the loom to look nice after I spliced it about!

Posted by: admin Posted on: December 11th, 2011, 09:23:08
Reply: 137

When I (re)wired my cars I connected the speedo unit via a 9-pin plug and socket so I can easily remove the whole thing if it needs attention. I used the two orange lamps for left and right indicators as I have a separate big oil pressure light on the dashboard.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 8th, 2012, 12:37:19
Reply: 138

Hi All! Happy New Year!
Just a quick up date.  I've spent the morning clearing out the shed and garage and made a bit of progress (I'll post a photo later), but I did come across a pair of the rubber gaskets that fit between the body and the headlight bowls on the mini.
Do you fit these to the MM too?

ETA Just realised my explanation wasn't too clear.  The bowls I have, have a thin rubber ring which fits around the outer edge of the bowl (on the body side of the bowl).  From the mini I have a thicker rubber ring which has extension pieces which push into/through the holes in the bodywork that the adjusting screws fit into.  Are these interchangable?  Supplimentry? Or is the thinner one just a cheap,modern interpritation of the thicker more substantial item?

Posted by: admin Posted on: January 8th, 2012, 17:01:57
Reply: 139

Yes. Fit the proper wide gaskets for three reasons:
1. They protect the backs of the adjusting screws so they don't get encrusted with road dirt;
2. They take up any unevenness in the fibreglass;
3. They space the bowls off the fibreglass and protect the outer chrome trims.
This is more important with the steel bowls than with plastic ones but you might as well fit the gaskets you have.
The thin rubber rings are unlikely to do much good unles the holes in the fibreglass have been cut accurately.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 8th, 2012, 17:35:21
Reply: 140

Yes, I definitely will use one of them - I agree with you the old style will probably be more robust (it was a thread on another site regarding the state of 'new' rubber components which got me thinking about these old style ones when I came across them). A picture paint a thousand words - the old ones have the adjuster screw covers:

Other things I've been doing:

It was looking for the handbrake pins for the radius arms that set me off sorting out the shed!  Did I find them.... not a chance!
And I decided that there'd been enough beating about the bush - and I'll copy the MPi (which failed its MOT yesterday, partly because of the new MOT rules) wiring, that is, whatever's inside the bulkhead will go inside the bulkhead, whatever's engine side will stay engine side.  Trying to make it look as neat as possible, this is the result (not finished of course):

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 10th, 2012, 21:03:54
Reply: 141

It doesn't look too bad does it?

I made up some brackets for the relays and the cut-out switch.  Looking at the mini's bulkhead most of the MM's bulkhead is going to be fitted with brackets!
Right - engine loom next:

And I've got a new steering column bracket to get fabricated then with the column in place, I'll look at tidying up the under dash wiring and then the rear loom.  :)

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: January 11th, 2012, 20:42:31
Reply: 142

What brakes are you using Graham? Just with only 600kg's I'd be tempted to bin the servo. I fitted Minisport 4 pots on 7.9" disks, and the the brakes are more powerful, and easier to modulate than my 7.5' S disc's ever were on my servo'd CE. Even my wife (who struggle in the CE) has said how much better/easier they are...

Looking V Good tho :-)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 11th, 2012, 20:47:12
Reply: 143

So - who's idea was it to fit an injection motor?  ::)

This is following the MPi cable cable runs.  I've also got the fuel/charcoal cannister connection cable tied in there (near side inner wing).
Now a request - could someone post a picture of the OSF inner wing position, like this:

I'm wondering if this is a viable position for the ecu:

To be honest, the ecu's so big I don't think there'll be much choice!
And before you start thinking how untidy that all is (and I'd have to agree), this is my guide:

Just as Rover intended  ;D
So the question is, do I try and fix the engine loom in position, or just use cable ties for temporary fixing until after the engines in place?

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: January 11th, 2012, 23:49:21
Reply: 144

Hello, cable ties, you may have to move the loom around to get the engine in for the dummy build.

Have you got a thumb missing?

And then fit an HIF44 SU....

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 12th, 2012, 21:54:44
Reply: 145

Matt, I've got metro 4 pot calipers and vented discs fitted on the subframe at the minute.  I have heard that this set up can lead to some interesting handling, but if that's the case when the cars on the road (Ha ha ha... is it Apr 1st all ready?) I've got a full 8.4 solid disc, twin pot set up waiting.
If it turns out the servo didn't work I'll consider ditching it, but I'd rather keep it for now.

I found out some intersting info from the guys on the mini cooper register forum, the engine loom was assembled onto the engine before the engine/subframe was offered up to the shell.  That makes sense, given that 'time is money' on a production line, so I'm going to give that a try, nearer the time.  What I will do in the engine bay is see if I can fabricate a bracket to hold the ecu in the osf inner wing position and permanently position the fuel/charcoal junction on the NSF inner wing.

Tonight I've had a go at tidying up the under dash wiring, mounting the fuse box at the right hand end of the lower dash rail.  It looks quite neat. I think it's compliant with the IVA (every time I look at it I interpret it differently  :-/) and I've laid out the rear section of the loom.
I now need to clean out the interior (I like things to be tidy - the missus says I've got OCD, everywhere but in the house!), put the rear loom in place, then I really will need to find something that I can lift the shell onto, about 12-18" high, just enough to get underneath to put things like the fuel tank in, be able to mount battery cables in, but not so high that it'll be too difficult to offer up the subframe.  Still looking for something suitable.
I may be visiting a place tomorrow with work, that'll be able to fabricate the steering column bracket.

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: January 12th, 2012, 22:08:46
Reply: 146

For what it's worth, I'm putting my ECU inside the car.  

Granted I am fitting a completely different engine, and Nissan mounted the ECU under the dash in the Micra but I can't help thinking that keeping it out of the engine bay is a very sensible idea?

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: January 13th, 2012, 09:51:19
Reply: 147

Quoted from Craig Smith, posted January 12th, 2012, 22:08:46 at here
For what it's worth, I'm putting my ECU inside the car.  




I agree - but wouldn't fancy re-wiring the MPI loom to extend it that far!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 15th, 2012, 20:36:03
Reply: 148

You're absolutely right Matthew - I don't really fancy cutting and splicing to extend that pair of cables!
I haven't had electric since last night, so have been limited in what I've been able to do:

Fuse box with cover on.  I'll get around to modifying this one day to cover the exposed bit.

Rad grill cut to size and placed in.  This needs to be secured, but for now is just sitting in front of the rad.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 18th, 2012, 21:46:42
Reply: 149

Quoted from Peter Bremner, posted January 11th, 2012, 23:49:21 at here

And then fit an HIF44 SU....



Peter - that's sooo 20th centuary  ;)

Tonight I've fitted the charcoal cannister:

Tucked up nice and high in the NSF wheel arch.
And mounted up the emissions kit in the engine bay:



Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 19th, 2012, 21:27:45
Reply: 150

Deja vu?

It's a little higher than I'd like, but it'll let me mount the tank (which now needs modifying).  And it puts the rear panel at a better height for working on:

Offering up the chosen lights, although offset from the original holes, it looks like I'll be able to incorporate the existing holes (saving me from having to fill and redrill the panel):

I've got some research to do before cutting - I'm sure the brake lights need to be at least 10cm (from memory) from th efog light, which dictates the tail/brake lights will be in the upper position (I could move the brake/reverse lights but they're in quite a good position).
I'll be asking for your thoughts on cutting the holes (painted surface, offset hole to be incorporated, only a 76mm hole saw - need a 93mm hole etc) when I'm sure of the distances required  :)

ETA Quick question for Lee Pashley if he still passes this way!  Lee, didn't you say you'd placed your radio aerial in the sill?  Have you a picture of where/how big the hole is?  Did you run the rear loom through the sill too?  Did you use conduit?  If anyone else has any ideas, feel free to air them!
Didn't I read on here someone (sorry can't remember who) had filled the sill box sections with foam?  I've heard of this on race and rally cars back in the day when the shells used to wobble about, and wouldn't mind doing something similar on this (as well as perhaps adding a little strength/stiffness, it may provide a little sound insulation too).  What type of foam should be used for this?

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: January 19th, 2012, 22:08:52
Reply: 151

Evening Graham

Just spotted this on Turbo Minis. About half way down the page it a picture of of a swirl pot on the underside of his Sabre Sprint - Might fit under the Marcos too?

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=358245&fr=50

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: January 19th, 2012, 22:52:21
Reply: 152

Hello, I used flexible electrical conduit from ScrewFix. I put a length in both sills, starting from inside the dash, down the A pillars and out just in front of the rear subframe mounts. Don't forget to put a length of rope through them to pull the cables through (I also pulled through another length of rope just in case).
I filled my sills with two pack foam, the sort you get from any glass fibre supplier. Make sure all the holes are taped over or you end up in a right mess. I also foamed up inside the A pillar at the same time. I made tubes of cardboard to protect the hinge stud area and filled through a hole in the top of the sill. Once I had poured, I quickly covered that hole with tape.
Good luck!

Posted by: admin Posted on: January 19th, 2012, 23:10:03
Reply: 153

If you have an automatic radio aerial the best place to fit it is on the rear ofside haunch behind the rear side window, with the bottom of the unit bolted to the back of the rear wheel arch. The cable can go through the sill. I said offside because it's further from the electrical fuel pump if ou have one.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 20th, 2012, 22:02:56
Reply: 154

Richard, I'm not looking to install an automatic aerial, and I'm trying to limit the number of holes I have to drill.
I was thinking about something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Rubber-Car-aerial/dp/B004V92PHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327094679&sr=8-1
but mounted in the sill (Lee reckoned it worked quite well in that location).
But I don't want it rattling around, hence the conduit/foam questions (Thanks Peter - was it your thread I'd read?  I'll look into that next time I'm over at east coast fibreglass suppies).
I am right in thinking the sills are an enclosed box section, yes?

Not the best of pics, granted, but I can safely drill a hole in the front and rear, yes?
ETA I've checked and it is 100mm between stop lights and fog light.  I'll get the rear panel masked up and marked up.

Posted by: admin Posted on: January 21st, 2012, 17:35:37
Reply: 155

I've had a 'rubber duck' aerial in the past - it was fitted to the Mini Jem. I wasn't impressed by its performance. You'd be better off with a telescopic aerial. It's one hole whatever you do.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 21st, 2012, 21:53:57
Reply: 156

Cheers Richard - I'll bear that in mind.
Matt - I've been in contact with Wil last year to discuss his fuel system set up.  He sent me that picture along with the electrical diagram of his system.  And I'm pretty sure it was Wil who suggested the solution I'm looking at adopting.  The swirl pot would be replaced by a shallow version of my fruit carton.  A small hole in the base of the tank:

I did think of putting a hole at the lowest point, but this may lead to an air gap occuring, so the other marker is an alternative position.  This would then be covered by a shallow pan:

It would of course be a better fit than my missus' cooking tray!  This in turn would have a feed to the fuel pump (with an in line filter before because of the position of the take off):

The original feed will then be the return.
I did think that offsetting the 'swirl pot' may offer a little more protection:

Do you think it'd work?
Tonights work has consited of:



Looking back at the Heritage demonstrator, I think these may be the same.  Not that that's a problem - its the look I was after  :)
Tomorrow is a tidy up and hoover of the garage.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 22nd, 2012, 12:51:45
Reply: 157

After a quick clean up (hoover only - there's still orange/white dust covering everything!) I carried on, this time measuring up and fitting the number plate light:

It's a nice small unit with four LEDs, the outer two angled.  Measuring this up showed the variation of a hand made shell - the position which 'looked right' being a few mm different from the measured centre.  In the end I split the difference and I'm happy with the result.  I used an old number plate while measuring - this is the result:

I offered up the tank - I'll put a penny washer or fibre washer betweent he shell and the tank or else it looks as though it'll dig into the fibreglass:

This is the fuel cap I've chosen:

It's obviously smaller than the one which was offered up before (different pcd).  I had intended to manufacture a carbon fronted panel, cut out a circle and bond this into the recess, into which the fuel cap would be secured (a bit like the repair piece in John Dickems book (Pg 89) hides heat damage), but when I looked closer there is a crack apparent which extends beyound the recess lip.  Not sure if it'll be visible in this next photo (at the six o'clock position, extending from the hole):

What are the options for sorting that out?
Finally this morning I offered up the rear subframe front mount:

I was a little surprised that there appeared to be no reinforcement plate in the fibreglass at this point (don't know why, but I expected there to be one).  I presume there'll be no harm in making up a plate to go on the interior side of the bolts?  And I'll need longer bolts - mini items are obviously not the ones to use (looking down into the interior bins):

And can someone confirm the sills are box section?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 27th, 2012, 20:39:48
Reply: 158

The fuel pump arrived through the post:

The protective sleeve is on now, and it looks good in the mount.
And now what should be a major milestone, but....
I offered up the rear subframe tonight.  But when it comes to fitting it properly, how the hell are you meant to tighten up the front trunnion pin/nut?

I notice the previous owner has made a small modification in order to ease fitment, but this has removed the gelcoat as well.  Another patch to touch up.
The other side seems to have a bit more space:

I know the rubber bushes have pulled out slightly - some washing up liquid will sort that.  But like I say, how do I tighten up the trunnion nuts (when I put them on!)?
Should they be tightened up before hand (won't that make lining them up difficult?)?
The rear trunnions weren't exactly easy to fit either, so I didn't tighten too much:


Again, I think when tightened up things will line up okay, but with the evidence of the front along with the rear I'd say the whole thing is slightly to one side (using the search button, this doesn't seem uncommon).
So, I know it roughly fits - the question is, how do I get it to fit properly (nuts tightened!)?
Oh, and I was able to confirm the tank will fitwith the subframe on - or at least it would if it wasn't for the rear left trunnion!

At least it will when I file the corner of the tank (rewelding if needed)!
Answers on a post card please  ;D

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 28th, 2012, 11:53:20
Reply: 159

Whats the general consensus on positioning the windscreen washer bottle?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 19th, 2012, 12:47:33
Reply: 160

Spoke to Rory at Heritage the other day.  Apparently the way to mount up the rear subframe is to tighten the front trunnions in place, then offer up the subframe - if any subsequent alignment adjustment is required it's a case of drilling the hole in the outer body to allow fitting of the pin spanner, this then being fitted with a grommet afterwards.
I'd rather not have to drill the bodywork if possible (don't know if there are any pictures of Lee's (Pashley's) car showing if he had to do that?).
Hopefully I'll have a steering column bracket back next week (just in time for me to go away with work for a month!), and I've 'notched' the corner of the fuel tank to allow fitment of that with the subframe in place.
Guess I'd best get in the garage this afternoon and try and make best use of my time then  :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 19th, 2012, 17:07:07
Reply: 161

Hmm... so, rear subframe, front trunnions tightened, subframe reinserted.  Next the rear mounts:


This is the rear left position.  The hole must be about 8mm out (too far forward for both).  The rear right isn't as far out, but still isn't lined up.
So the correct way of solving this, is to countersink the holes, fill with fibreglass and redrill, yes?  :-/
If so, its subframe out again.

ETA Don't know if you can make it out in that first position, drilling the hole in a new 'correct' position will put it very close to the edge of the flat section onto which the subframe mounts.
Also should there be some sort of 'gasket' between the subframe trunnion mounts and the shell (I'm thinking of something like a thin layer of rubber sheet, to prevent fretting)?  Or is the rubber bushes sufficient to prevent this?
I wonder if this is why the car was sat for so long at Acespeed with no rear subframe fitted?

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: February 19th, 2012, 17:55:16
Reply: 162

Graham - Is the subframe you are using new? I'd be worried about re-drilling holes if there is even the slightest chance that it could actually be the frame and not the car!

I realise you have just tightened everything, then re-fitted it all... But how about loosening the rears off to get the trunnion bolts through, then re-tighten?

Nice DSN lightweight trunnions BTW :-)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 20th, 2012, 20:47:29
Reply: 163

Matthew the subframe is a new, pattern part.  I did try and line everything up loosely fitted, as it were (the only bolts done up are the trunnion ones). (Perhaps I ought to try some string trigonometry on it)
I think I could get the rear right fitted, but I don't think I'd get the rear left anywhere near.
I don't really want to re-drill the holes but am thnking if I force the bolts into position and tighten them up it will put excessive pressure into the fibreglass.  Not sure what to do to be honest.
Yeah, the DSN stuff is pretty impressive - I only have the trunnions at present, but am sure I'll be getting some more of their products when money allows (I don't think they make an MPi engine steady yet though).
Anyway, ideas on a postcard, as they say!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:25:55
Reply: 164

Right, so lying under the car with the inspection light I finally discovered another use for the 'bent' end of a scriber.  It turns out that the upper edge of the LHS trunninon block wasn't sitting flush with the heel board.  So off came the subframe and yes, you can see where the top has been digging into the fibreglass:

Hopefully this shows up in these pictures - they were taken with the phone camera (the dog chewed the proper camera cable!)
So then I looked at the other side:

Hmm...
Out with the ruler, LHS lined up with the top centre of the lower hole it measures approximately 17mm until the ruler contacts the inside of the side panel:

RHS same position measures approximately 27mm:

Now looking directly under the 'sill level', the holes on the RHS is obviously inboard of the sill.  On the LHS the hole are further towards the outer edge of the car (does that make sense written down?).
This will obviously affect how far out the wheels will stick, but more importantly will this effect the subframe alignment?
The black coating on the heelboard only appears to be a mil or so thick, but does provide a nice clear face for the trunnion block to sit against.
So what are my options?  What do I do?

Posted by: Lee Pashley Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:27:50
Reply: 165

Graham . I had to inlongate the rear mouting hole by a few mm , but they were not has far out has your looks ! I also had take the corner off the tank to miss the trunnion. probably  not much help to you !

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:37:28
Reply: 166

Hiya Lee - I trust the cars running well?
Good to hear I'm not the first to encounter these problems!
Can I ask, did you drill the holes for the rear subframe or did Heritage put them in?

Posted by: Lee Pashley Posted on: February 23rd, 2012, 21:58:12
Reply: 167

Cars in daily use & running well . Heritage drilled all the holes for the rear sub frame & by looks of it got it a bit closer to were they shouid be on mine

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 12th, 2012, 20:39:46
Reply: 168

So,  a little grinding, a little advise (from a certain Mr Dickens - thanks John!) and realisation that my wheels will stick out one side more than the other and:

Tonight I tried to fit the radius arm to the 'easy' side (right, with more space) and.... not a chance.
Well, I could struggle and probably get it in place, but I wouldn't be able to grease them up!  So, it looks like I'll definitely need to drill holes in the bodywork (which will also make it easier to fit the radius arm in the first place too).
How's best to do this?  I know some of the older mark's of MM have this - is there a standard size to drill (corresponding with a suitable cover/grommet)?  And seeing as how the cars painted is there a best way of doing this?  And how do I repair the gelcoat afterwards?
(You really would have thought the original owner would've done a dry build and discovered all of this prior to painting, wouldn't you?)
I did manage to get the new steering column bracket fabricated:

I'll cut it down to size when I offer up the column and get it fully welded up:

My drill's at the ready, waiting for your collective wisdom!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 20th, 2012, 18:31:44
Reply: 169

Forgot to show last time, I made up some spreader plates for the subframe bolts:


Today I managed to get the radius arms fitted (I now hat ethat job!).  With the subframe being offset left, it was neccessary to take a small part of the 'sill' away on the left hand side:


The worst bit is knowing I'll need to take this all apart again to reinforce these areas and repair the gelcoat/paint.

When fitting the shock I noticed the body of the shock was contacting the raius arm.  I think I've read about this in one of the magazines and I'm sure they ground away the area of the arm that was in contact.  I'll try and dig the mag out.

The right rear was the same, except that on that side the top of the shock couldn't fit in the hole through the body - hopefully it will when fitted correctly onto the radius arm.
Finally, got the steering column offered up.  Again this'll have to come apart again for final welding when everything been connected and tested.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 31st, 2012, 17:28:11
Reply: 170

Right, so I've got next week off and I'm hoping to get some time in the garage.  I'm planning to try and do some bodywork and something occured to me.  But first some pictures:

This was neccessary to get the dampers to clear the radius arm:

Although I've got Gaz units, in Keeping Your Mini Alive 5 they had to do something similar for Spax units.
For the RHR unit, although I've got it fitting, the hole for the top nut isn't aligned above the radius arm.  I guess this is another example of a hand made shell idiosyncricies, but am I okay to elongate this top hole to align the damper correctly?  Is there a risk that the hole could be made too big (long)?

But I couldn't resist fitting a wheel on temporarily:
:)
For the bodywork, I've drilled the holes for the grease nipple access.  To stop water damage the cut 'edges' of the GRP will need to be sealed.  Do I just use the resin for this, or orange gelcoat, or a combination of both to do this?
And all the other holes I've drilled (for the front damper mounting, for example) - I've used a silicon sealent when fitting the items.  Should I be taking these off again,clean them up and seal the edges of these holes?
So much to do, so little time (and next week isn't even here yet!).

Posted by: Richard Porter Posted on: June 1st, 2012, 09:32:28
Reply: 171

Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted May 31st, 2012, 17:28:11 at here
I guess this is another example of a hand made shell idiosyncricies, but am I okay to elongate this top hole to align the damper correctly? Is there a risk that the hole could be made too big (long)?

For the bodywork, I've drilled the holes for the grease nipple access. To stop water damage the cut 'edges' of the GRP will need to be sealed. Do I just use the resin for this, or orange gelcoat, or a combination of both to do this?
And all the other holes I've drilled (for the front damper mounting, for example) - I've used a silicon sealent when fitting the items. Should I be taking these off again,clean them up and seal the edges of these holes?



I'd be a bit wary about elongating the hole. I'd prefer to fill it in and glass over the area on both sides, then drill a new hole where needed. Some shocks have offset studs at the top so you don't need to do this.

As for sealing holes I suspect that normally nothing special is done. There's no point in using gelcoat or gelcoat filler. Resin A should be fine but let it cure before you put the bolts in otherwise you might have difficulty getting them out. Silicone sealant doesn't stick very well to gelcoat, but anything that keeps the water out is better than nothing - mastic or heavy grease would do.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 7th, 2012, 19:56:39
Reply: 172

Sorry for the delay in replying Richard - my internet has been down, but I'll follow your advice and leave those items alone, that I've already sealed with silicon sealant.  Today I've coated the edges of the holes I created for the grease nipple access with resin as I've put a couple of layers of CSM in those areas that needed it.
I should now be in a position to torque up the rear subframe bolts.  When I spoke to John (Dickens) on the phone he informed me that it is important to align the front/rear subframe to ensure the car doesn't crab and drives nicely.  How do I ensure the rear subframe is 'square', before tightening it all down when the front subbie isn't fitted?
I also need to get back onto the electrics.  The car came with a (lower part of) battery box fitted centrally in the rear.  Now this is a good position for weight distribution and (IVA permitting - I need to confirm that) I'd ;like to keep this arrangement for this reason.  But it will require a sealed battery box, somethig like this:
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/BATTERIES-Battery-Box/c110_127/index.html
Do you reckon this (and the associated battery) would be suitable?  Are there any suggestions for an alternative?  What rating of battery is recommended?  (I've got a hefty, heavy duty battery in the mini, but it's also a good old size, filling the battery box in the boot)
Hopefully I'll get a bit more time in the garage tomorrow to get a bit more done  :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 8th, 2012, 11:21:21
Reply: 173

I've cleaned up the fuel filler hole this morning.  The cracking is worse than I thought around the securing holes, so I followed John's advice and placed a couple of layers of CSM across the back of this area to stiffen it.  My GRP work is probably best described as, err, workmanlike!  More practise needed I think (although I hope not to get more practise, if you see what I mean!):

I opened up the hole to accept the filler.  From this I can see that I need to fill in the holes (countersink and resin in individual fibres yes?) and I'll probably fill in the 'lip' thats been created to provide a bit more rigidity too:

I'll need the gelcoat soon as well to make the best of this job.
ETA I realise that the cracks don't show up as well now I've seen the photos large scale, but would I now just treat these as cracks in the gel coat?

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: June 8th, 2012, 11:49:19
Reply: 174

There is an older thread on batteries that might answer your questions.

http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?,b=GB,v=display,m=1309818355,s=3,highlight=mx5#num3

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 11th, 2012, 20:08:02
Reply: 175

Thanks Jim - I'll look to see if they can supply a battery box for that and (once confirmed it would be IVA compliant) will look at getting one of them!
With a mixture of measuring and viewing, I've got two wheels on my wagon now:

Strut and spring in place:

:)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 25th, 2012, 20:32:30
Reply: 176

He he....  I don't remember putting any holes there:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 28th, 2012, 20:21:49
Reply: 177

Got a couple of hours in the garage this week.
The handbrake cable route solution (as suggested by John):

Got a couple of bungs the correct size, so fitted them (and can cross another small job off the list):

This is the solution I have for part of the fuel tank problems - supply outlet fitted:


I'll run a filter directly after this (i.e. before the pump) and it doesn'tt protrude to low either:

My youngest helper got ahold of the camera while I was underneath the car - turns out the picture he took makes the car look quite shiney  :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 4th, 2012, 16:53:48
Reply: 178

Hope this picture comes out!  I'm proposing to put the fuel pump here:

Is this going to be too exposed?  What could I use to shield it?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 16th, 2012, 19:44:34
Reply: 179

Steering column correctly fitted now, heater refitted.  Does anyone have any pictures of where the heater pipes go through the bulkhead?  Comparing with the mini, the heater pipes would protrude directly where the chassis plate is.
Ordered another few bits too.




Posted by: admin Posted on: August 17th, 2012, 09:43:46
Reply: 180

Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted August 16th, 2012, 19:44:34 at here
Does anyone have any pictures of where the heater pipes go through the bulkhead?  Comparing with the mini, the heater pipes would protrude directly where the chassis plate is.



Put the hose through where it's convenient. This is mine - nearside:

Posted by: admin Posted on: August 17th, 2012, 09:44:19
Reply: 181

and offside:

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: August 17th, 2012, 13:17:11
Reply: 182




Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: August 17th, 2012, 19:49:30
Reply: 183

Wheels and catches look ace. I really like the 'black on orange' look.

Heater pipes... Don't bother, they're a pain to fill! Seriously though, I fitted a heater originally, but have just removed it, as it was always a little too hot! After 5-10 minutes of driving, the heat-soak is enough that its nice and warm!

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: August 18th, 2012, 09:36:08
Reply: 184

Quoted from Matthew Payne, posted August 17th, 2012, 19:49:30 at here
I fitted a heater originally, but have just removed it, as it was always a little too hot! After 5-10 minutes of driving, the heat-soak is enough that its nice and warm!



Remind me not to get a lift anywhere with you in the middle of winter, brrrrr

:o

Posted by: admin Posted on: August 18th, 2012, 12:17:10
Reply: 185

How about fitting a heater control valve?

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: August 18th, 2012, 21:03:30
Reply: 186

I think I might leave it in the shed over winter :-p

Control valve didn't seem to make much difference. I suspect that the pipe route wasn't exactly clever, so hot water was probably going the opposite way to what I was expecting... Too late to worry about it now!

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: August 20th, 2012, 20:15:49
Reply: 187



I then fitted a floating water valve behind the heater. The two spouts are to bleed the pipes. I made my own head outlet from a blanking plate and a 90 degree 15mm copper pipe fitting

Posted by: Mirek Ko Posted on: August 21st, 2012, 09:02:29
Reply: 188

Perfect work :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 21st, 2012, 19:17:39
Reply: 189

Thanks for the pictures guys.  I'm back to work now, so work once again progress slows.  It'll give me a chance to save up for a set of MPI silicon hoses (£145+  :o)
Glad the orange and black scheme appeals - I hope it'll look as good as I think it will.
And I found out yesterday that you can't get the female part of the plug for the rear lights!  Guess I'll be constructing something from my selection of female terminals then  :-/

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 23rd, 2012, 15:17:52
Reply: 190

Well I've got the rear lights connected:

Once tested I'll tidy this up.
I also fitted the switch panel:

I'm not sure how to wire the power socket in - googling does produce answer, I just don't understand them too well!
I might have found a solution to padding the lower dash rail too:

Pipe insulation.  I need to try and find black though.
This is my solution to the fuel tank (to charcoal cannister) problem.  I'll just have to be careful not to fill the tank too full:

The fuel system has proven a bit of a nightmare to plumb ib - nothing hard just awkward.  I'll put a picture up when finished.
For heat control I've put some Zircotec sheeting on the bulkhead:

I'll put more of this lower down and along the exhaust tunnel, perhaps around the silencer box also.  With thermal wrap on the manifold hopefully that will control cabin temperatures.
Also (don't laugh), my first attempts at gel coat repairs:


There was four of five places I attempted to repair, luckily most of them unseen areas.
I've got a functioning hand brake now too!  With luck it'll be on (two) wheels soon, and I'll be able to wheel it in and out a bit easier to create space in the garage  :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 13th, 2012, 13:06:02
Reply: 191

Right, so long as it doesn't leak, I've got the fuel lines plumbed in.
12mm braided line from the tank to the filter (red thing in the picture).  12mm line to the Sytec fuel pump inlet, followed by 8mm braided line to the solid fuel line:

The return line is 8mm braided stepping down to 6mm connected to the tank (using the original supply position as the return).  The breather (from the tank neck) to the solid line which goes to the charcoal canniter is brake line connected each end with rubber fuel injection hose.  All hoses are connected to either the shell or the fuel pump mount with no more than 12" between fixings.  This will hopefully satisfy the IVA man when the time comes.  The one area I have a slight concern about is where the braided line (from the tank to the filter) squeezes between the shell and the rear subframe.  If they deciede this is unacceptable I'll have a real headache finding another route for it.  Oh well, we'll have to see.
Looking forward you can see I've lined the 'transmission' tunnel with Zircoflex too:

I'm getting ahead of myself, but looking at it from underneath it does make me wonder how/where I'm going to be able to mount the exhaust.
Having done this I've lowered the car back onto two wheels and had a tidy up of the garage.  I did think after I'd started this perhaps I should've run in the battery cables front to rear in the channel provided, but too late - the cars down now.
While I think about this, whats the norm for gathering all the earths together, for connecting to the battery neg?  There are quite a few for the rear lights, I'v got a note to earth the tank too, there are a good amount emerging from under the dash and there'll be some from the engine bay too.  That's a lot of wire's to identify and find a way back to the rear of the car!  (Of course I just love electrics so am looking forward to this particular challenge  ::) )
This is the space I have at the rear of the garage now I've moved things around:


The MPi engine is under the dust blue sheet, but does this look like a big enough area to strip and build the engine (not something I've ever done before in it's entirety)?  I'll need to tidy the bench obviously - strange how things seem to gather there  :).

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 19th, 2012, 20:50:55
Reply: 192

Got the free form headlights fitted:

This picture doesn't show it too well, but they look really good - a nice clean design.
I've also received the silicon bottom hose (Only £65 from China in the end), a new header tank and some odds and sod.
I've decided to run the electric cables (from/to the battery) through the interior so am working on that at the minute.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 15th, 2012, 20:22:55
Reply: 193

Okay - so others have been making me feel guilty with some of the good progress they've been making so with the weather being milder today I got out into the garage for a couple of hours.
Now I had been deliberating over front indicators but when I bought something from CBS recently they were advertising a combined DRL and LED indicator units.  I like the thought of DRL's (they do help new cars be noticed) so thought I'd give them a try.  This is the result:

Hmm - not sure I like them at all!  When I bought them I did ask if they'd take them back if they weren't to my liking.  If they were more... orange, or perhaps a smoked chrome effect  :-/.
As all the options I've seen seem to be an 85mm fitting and 95mm in overall diameter I continued to offer one up:

Seen like that it doesn't look quite as offensive.  Do they work with the free-form headlights?  Or are they just too much 'bling'?
So, what the general consensus - honest opinions only!

ETA - you can also just see where I've taped the electric cables together, to run the length of the body.  These'll be going through the interior I think, entering the engine compartment in the vicinity of the bulkhead somewhere.

Posted by: admin Posted on: December 15th, 2012, 21:07:19
Reply: 194

I think they'll look alright. You won't normally see the indicators from such a low angle.

I was tempted to do something like this on my "other" Mini Marcos ...



but I've stuck to putting the indicators on the outside and using the original indicator panels for the heater air intake on the right and electric horn on the left.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 1st, 2013, 12:30:53
Reply: 195

The sun's out, temperature is in the +ve.
Anything to get out of doing the electrics I offered the engine up to the subframe.  I needed to grind bavk a bit of the seam welding around the engine mounts but in the end it slid in:


Is there an easy way to fit the pot joints into the diff housing?

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: April 1st, 2013, 16:30:05
Reply: 196

Is there a C-clip on that output shaft?

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: April 1st, 2013, 21:30:20
Reply: 197

Give it a smack with a Soft mallet on the end of the drive shaft.

The C clip gives it resistance to a point but then it just slips into place.

Posted by: admin Posted on: April 1st, 2013, 21:32:20
Reply: 198

Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted April 1st, 2013, 12:30:53 at here
Is there an easy way to fit the pot joints into the diff housing?




Just whack them with a rubber mallet. Once you get the circlip into the pot joint it should go quite easily.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 2nd, 2013, 19:04:45
Reply: 199

A big (rubber) hammer it is then!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 5th, 2013, 18:49:20
Reply: 200

Okay, so the shell is ready to be lifted onto the engine/subframe but hows best to do that?
What I mean is, while I have two big strong nephews who can help me out I don't want them to end up with the bad back I'm suffering from at the minute.
Is there a way I could lift the shell with an engine hoist (for example. I have one of those!) which would make the task easier?

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: May 5th, 2013, 19:55:59
Reply: 201

Hello, I'm being picky, everything else looks so good, are you going to give the lump a lick of paint and an alloy rocker cover?
;) ;) ;) ;) ;D

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: May 5th, 2013, 21:22:03
Reply: 202

Graham... You haven't got windows or trim in... Just get them to grab a wheel arch each and it'll be fine. Popped mine over with my dads help just a fortnight ago. The only thing that makes it easier is being taller (which Im not).

Your car is looking good BTW!

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: May 5th, 2013, 21:23:24
Reply: 203

Oh, just realised that I cant see if the back wheels are on?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 6th, 2013, 12:36:25
Reply: 204

Peter, I'm after fitting the engine/subframe so that I can work out where the coolant hoses and electric cables will go through the bulkhead. I don't want to 'guess' incorrectly.  I'll be looking to rebuild the engine prior to final fitment, but as the body will have to come off again I was wondering if there was an easy way, ideally one which I could do by myself.
Matthew - yes there are back wheels fitted so I guess I'll do as you say, get my nephews to give me a hand lifting it over.

(This is all a big diversion to stop me thinking about doing the electrics anymore by the way!  Not that I think I'm fooling anyone (except myself(  ;D )

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: May 7th, 2013, 21:49:38
Reply: 205

Hello, my lump was in and out like a yo-yo, I always dropped mine in from the top, but, most of the front panel had been cut away.

Wiring: take your time, use a simple continuity tester or a voltmeter, use crimped Lucar terminals and bullets (I also soldered mine) and relays for heavy duty stuff. I also included in my loom extra wires to the coil (in case I fitted a rev limiter) and also to the rear (in case of extra lights). I fitted a bolt to one of the dash supports to act as a central earth and then took a big fat lead to the engine and one to the battery earth.

Once you've sussed that the indicator warning light earths through the other bulbs and that the horn is permanently live and earths through the horn push you'll be well away...   ;D

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: May 8th, 2013, 18:39:00
Reply: 206

You can easily lift the front of the car with a hoist, it weighs next to nothing without the engine, or if you have a decent sized jack and it's a rod change, you can jack it up from the floor just behind the front bulkhead (spread the load with a bit of wood). The car goes up at an alarming angle but its high enough to get the subframe in and quite stable. I've done it both ways, either is a one man job, and you can control the body as it comes down, just in case something is in the wrong place.

Posted by: Grant Wilson Posted on: May 9th, 2013, 16:01:22
Reply: 207

I raise my car on large lumps of wood  placed before the rear wheels.  I place 2 old wheels with more wood under the back of the car .

I have made a strap that lifts from the top and spreads the weight between engine steady,steering rack and  the front lip of the engine bay...I then lift it with engine crane with ease.

it rocks on the wood infront of wheels then weight moves to rear of car....not had a problem doing it this way and it has been in and out ( and shaken all about) several times.

good luck

Grant.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 20th, 2013, 18:57:00
Reply: 208

Why won't it fit!!!
Okay - two strong helpers and it wasn't to bad, but the subframe holes wouldn't line up.
I have a theory and some photo's to help but would like your thoughts before I progress.

The subbie was about 1/2 or 3/4" too far forward.  There appeared to be clearance between the subbie and the bulkhead:

This picture was taken looking behind the front left wheel and attempts to show the clearance (not too clear I appreachiate).

I did wonder if the injection fuel lines were holding it proud, but there was sufficient movement in the pipes to convince me this wasn't the case.  There was scuff marks on the subframe when we removed it again to show where we'd moved them about:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 20th, 2013, 19:07:20
Reply: 209

Photobucket playing up:




(Marks from fuel lines being wiggled)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 20th, 2013, 19:09:14
Reply: 210

Steering rack looks tight:

Rack seems to dig into the subframe:

Scratches on subbie from rack bolt:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 20th, 2013, 19:12:09
Reply: 211

We tried presenting the subframe at a few angles but this seems to be the culprit:

So before I remove the rack and offer thing up again any thoughts?
I did manage to get an idea of the wheel protrusion with the metro vented disc set up:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 20th, 2013, 19:17:37
Reply: 212

And how about this - I needed a steering wheel but the MPi column has a different spline set up from previous minis.  But MPi wheels are very expensive on ebay but a little research turned up the MGf wheel which os very similar but crucially has the same spline pattern.  A complete column cost £45, about half what a used MPi wheel costs.  So I get a spare set of stalks to and (look closely) an electric power assist system:

I don't intend to use this but it's nice to know it's a possible option (I'll be so old when I get this finished I might need it!)  :)
So, any ideas welcome before I attack the steering rack?

Posted by: MPlayle Posted on: May 21st, 2013, 01:59:39
Reply: 213

The steering box end is supposed to fit into that opening below the scruff marks.  Try loosening the rack mounts and rotating the box down slightly (raising the angle of the column).

Leave the rack a little loose when offering up the subframe to allow rotating the rack a bit to get the steering box to drop into that opening.  only tighten the rack once the column is installed so that you don't get angular stress on the splines.  Such issues are common on Minis when folks install the steering drop brackets.

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: May 21st, 2013, 21:53:15
Reply: 214

That power steering column is far smaller than the Corsa "B" one I got for mine; looks likes it's time for plan B (again)..!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 23rd, 2013, 10:11:05
Reply: 215

Craig - let me know if you need any more pics or dimension (and won't this make it Plan 'C'?  ;))
Your own car needs a thread!  It might give me ideas/solutions!

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: May 23rd, 2013, 10:45:58
Reply: 216

Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted May 23rd, 2013, 10:11:05 at here

Your own car needs a thread!  It might give me ideas/solutions!



It has one, I've somehow missed recent posts http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?,b=MM,v=display,m=1226520241,s=39,highlight=#num39

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 1st, 2013, 16:44:55
Reply: 217

Rack loosened off.  Engine now in:

Subframe obviously must be offset to the drivers side:


I'll look to fit some kind of flared arch, perhaps slimmer on the passenger side to balance up the aesthetics.  Has anyone else suffered this?  What did you do to overcome it?  I could fit my wintertyres (135 section) for the IVA  ;D.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 1st, 2013, 16:48:13
Reply: 218

I tightened the rack back up and fitted the wheel so I could steer the car (moving the car out of the garage so I could have a tidy up).  Hopefully this picture will illustrate what I meant by the column being offset to the left:

The clock binnacle seems to be directly in front when you sit central to the drivers side but you can see how the wheel rim covers the rev counter.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 1st, 2013, 16:55:19
Reply: 219

I'll put the heater pipes through the bulkhead underneath the chassis plate.  There's space on the other side and it lines up quite well with the heater:

I've also offered up the engine harness, working out where all the connections go:

Who's idea was it to use the MPi as a base  ::)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 1st, 2013, 16:58:49
Reply: 220

Placing the inlet manifold and throttle body in position shows how much less space there is on the MM compared with the mini bodyshell:

I do have a problem with the fuel lines:

There is some lateral movement but I don't know if physically (permanently) bending them will frcture them.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 1st, 2013, 17:08:26
Reply: 221

I'll need to find some way of securing the engine relay to the bulkhead too.  It can't fit in the same position as on the mini (where it sits atop the servo):

The main problem at the moment is that the gearbox must be engaged in a gear, as I can't push the car backward/forward.  Is there an easy way of checking this/getting neutral?

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: June 1st, 2013, 20:39:40
Reply: 222

You can manipulate the gear selector with a screwdriver from the back of the gear box, push it through the hole for the roll pin and push/twist the selector to engage neutral.

Posted by: Lee Pashley Posted on: June 2nd, 2013, 20:58:13
Reply: 223

Graham ,don"t think you can use a air bag for theIVA so you may have to find another steering wheel.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 3rd, 2013, 19:25:12
Reply: 224

Lee - your right, I can't use an airbag wheel.  I am looking eventually to use a nice aftermarket wheel, but as you can't have spoked wheels either (with holes in the spokes) I didn't want to spend a frtune yet.  I discovered a thread (on turbominis I think) where someone had used the airbag as a template to create a mould for a fibreglass copy.  I have some carbon fibre sheet somewhere in the shed I'll look to do something similar.
I will need to use the rotary coupling as this controls the horn also.  I'm not sure if I'll need to use the airbag harness - this'll be a pain if I do, but I've heard that funny things can happy with the ECU if not all the sensors are registered.
I did think about using a LandRover Discovery wheel - no airbag, bigger diameter (so there is a bigger exclusion zone behind the wheel for IVA) and I'm told uses the same spline set up, but I couldn't find absolute confirmation of this (no surprise really).
Neil, I'll have a look at the engine/gearbox in the garage and have a play at engaging/disengaging the box before climbing under the car tomorrow night.  It'd be good to get the car out into the sunlight  ;D

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 6th, 2013, 19:13:16
Reply: 225





Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 6th, 2013, 19:15:09
Reply: 226



;D Four wheels and a steering wheel - does it count as a car yet?  Or just a mobile home for one of the engines!
Wheeling it out puts its size in context - barely above the waist line of our Honda.

Posted by: Matthew Payne Posted on: June 6th, 2013, 19:48:18
Reply: 227

I made a centre for my MPI steering wheel with foam and fabric... Simple!

[img][/img]

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 30th, 2013, 10:51:11
Reply: 228

Matthew, it might have been your efforts I saw on another forum?

I've got this earth strap for the fuel tank:

With trying to limit the number of holes I put in the shell I wondering if I could attach this underneath the screww head of one of the tank holding screws:

If I ensure this screw/washer/nut doesn't get rusty would this be acceptable?

Posted by: Brian Posted on: July 1st, 2013, 02:27:01
Reply: 229

The other bolts should be fine, but what are you grounding the tank to? The rear subframe should be fine...

As for the bolts, don't depend on the bolts to conduct, just use them to force the brass lug to contact an unpainted spot on whatever you're trying to connect from/to...

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 17th, 2013, 19:46:21
Reply: 230

Right, I've got this week off work, have serviced the mini so had a chance to get in the garage this afternoon.
The fuel tank earth:

I've also fitted the connections to the main electrical cables (battery end) to match the Extreme 30 battery:

I've gathered the earths together (this picture is of the LHR side, there's a similar bunch on the RHR).  I'm still not clear in my mind how I get these to the battery negative neatly (and safely!):

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 17th, 2013, 19:51:32
Reply: 231

Other things done:
A lovely DSN MPi engine steady:

The mounting holes required for this are slightly different to a 'normal' mini so I had to drill a copule of more holes for this:


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 17th, 2013, 19:53:50
Reply: 232

Also:
Fuel pump and sender wired in:

I still need to find somewhere to mount the engine relay:

This mounts on the top of the servo bracket on the mini, obviously not an option with the lower bonnet line.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 17th, 2013, 19:58:10
Reply: 233

This is the engine bay with the engine harness in place:

And this is how I left it this evening (complete with rear Revolutions fitted this time):


Hopefully we'll get a bit more done tomorrow.
One question I do have, I've offered up the (front) subframe rear mounts and the gap is different to the gap with the original subframe (original as in fitted to the car when I bought it).  Has anyone had to put spacers on these?  Or modify (bend) the subframe ears to ensure a good fit?  I'll try and get a picture tomorrow.
ETA - Do I need to earth the rear subframe seperately?  I think so but am not sure  :-/

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 18th, 2013, 12:56:31
Reply: 234

This is the drivers side rear subframe mount:

And the passenger side:

None of the holes line up.  How do I rectify this?
And do you think this would work for the main electric cables?  The red (+ve) through the bulkhead to the starter motor, the black (-ve) attached to a bolt going through thte bulkhead attaching the dash side earths inside, the engine bay earth on the engine bay side?  The cables would be under carpet of course (I can't (easily) run the cables under the car - the two channels are used by the fuel pipes and brake pipe):

There's been a fair bit of this today:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 18th, 2013, 15:44:33
Reply: 235

A couple of other little jobs done.
Door switches fitted:

DSN engine block steady offered up:


If I could get the subframe rear mounts fitted, I'd be tempted to get the engine ready to fire up.  Any ideas how to solve that problem?
And when I was looking down on the subframe I noticed it looks as if it isn't fitted squarely:

How much play is there in the turret bolts normally?

Posted by: Brian Posted on: July 18th, 2013, 20:20:07
Reply: 236

While the battery cables are surely well shielded, in the off chance of a collision, I wouldn't want something cutting that insulation and causing a shower so close to me. If you won't have a passenger seat, maybe run them there, or possibly even better yet, run one up each side?

Also, I believe there's a channel under the car designed for those cables. I know there is in the mk6, and it looks like I can see the upper side of that channel on the floor pan of your car; is there a reason not to use that?

Posted by: Brian Posted on: July 18th, 2013, 20:23:39
Reply: 237

For your earlier question re: grounding circuits, I personally prefer to use a busbar for the grounds. It makes it far easier to add a device or two. In our (non mini) race car, we used to ground instruments via a screw through the car's body with a bunch of lugs on it. One time, we needed to add a device in a hurry, during a pit stop. We ended up with someone holding a wrench in the front bay, and another person turning a screw in the driver's compartment, to get that screw out, and add to the lug. A bus bar keeps all the individual wires separate and clean for maintenance and troubleshooting. I feel it's easier to get a solid ground, too.

Posted by: admin Posted on: July 20th, 2013, 16:12:14
Reply: 238

The channels on the floor pan are for the brake line and fuel line. The usual path for the battery cables is through the sill on the left hand side for right hand drive, so the battery is at the left rear. I'd take the earth cable through the bulkhead to terminate on the engine e.g. using one of the thermostat cover studs. Then I connect earthing cables from the electrics at the front of the car to the engine block on each side. At the back the lights, fuel tank and pump (if fitted)  can be earthed directly to the battery terminal.

That just leaves the stuff in the middle for which I run a wire from the engine end of the battery earth cable. In actual fact the Marcos is slightly different because I have a bolt through the crossmember with the battery cable terminating on the inside of the car, and then a strap from the engine side to the engine. The equipment can connect to the appropriate side of this bolt.

I have thought about using a bus bar because I happen to have one from a telephone exchange but I didn't see how it would be fitted. It's got short wires coming out at regular intervals on one side for connecting things to.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 20th, 2013, 20:21:35
Reply: 239

Brian, my car is a Mk6 - chassis number 3.  As Richard says there is a channel either side underneath and while the fuel (injection) lines don't follow the left hand side exactly, they do fill the channel fully in the area of the rear subframe heel board.
The right hand channel has the rear brake line in it.
I think I'll explore your suggestion of perhaps running a cable down each side.
Richard - do you have  any experience with the front subframe rear mounts?

While I've been looking at the wiring should I have a seperate switch for the front heated screen given the current it may draw?  Or could I run them both throught he one switch (I currently have a four switch panel fitted)?

Another little job done today is position the seats and drill the subframe holes (cue lots of Brmm Brmm noises and funny looks from my eldest):



The good news is there's enough headroom with these seats and plenty of fore/aft adjustment even for the missus' stumpy legs  ;) . And they do look good.
They're back out now, and I don't know when I'll get any more time in the garage for a while.  I've enjoyed this week working on the car - if I can get these electrics sorted I get the feeling it could be the downhill stretch (only another three years to go then!).

Posted by: Brian Posted on: July 22nd, 2013, 15:41:22
Reply: 240

For the heated screen switches...are you running a relay? For the larger draw items such as heaters, headlamps, etc, it will be better to run a relay. For the screens, some suggest a timed relay which will automatically turn off after 10 or so minutes.

I was unable to find the power draw for the window heaters. But the seat heaters I plan to use (in lieu of a standard heater) take 10 amps (well, a 10 amp fuse, so probably 8ish amps) . The switches seem to usually have ratings in the neighborhood of 10 amps, too, so it should be fine. I still just plan to power a relay with the switch, though. It will be far easier to swap a burnt relay module from the fuse box than to take the dash apart to fix a switch. And, it means a much smaller gauge of wire that I need to pull into the dash (at least for rear screen).

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: July 22nd, 2013, 20:16:01
Reply: 241

I'd certainly say you need a relay for the rear screen at least - it draws around 15-20A and a timer relay helps if you forget to switch it off!

Be careful with the heated front screens, they only use a low current and can easily burn out a few wires, which then adds more load to the others...

Posted by: Brian Posted on: July 22nd, 2013, 20:27:29
Reply: 242

Simon, I didn't follow your comment re: the front screen. I presume you were suggesting that some of the individual heating element wires can burn out...it doesn't seem that there would be much to do to do to prevent this...?

Posted by: Brian Posted on: July 23rd, 2013, 01:36:52
Reply: 243

Quoted from admin, posted July 20th, 2013, 16:12:14 at here
The channels on the floor pan are for the brake line and fuel line. The usual path for the battery cables is through the sill on the left hand side for right hand drive, so the battery is at the left rear. I'd take the earth cable through the bulkhead to terminate on the engine e.g. using one of the thermostat cover studs. Then I connect earthing cables from the electrics at the front of the car to the engine block on each side. At the back the lights, fuel tank and pump (if fitted)  can be earthed directly to the battery terminal.



I had been thinking of this: "The battery cable, taken from the donor vehicle, should be fitted into the channel moulded into the passenger side of the car and secured every 30-40 cm." from the build manual.

According to the manual, you do the driver's side channel for brake+fuel, and the passenger side one for power. However, in his case, if going with the 3 fuel pipes for a SPi/MPi, then I guess that takes some extra space...

Posted by: Brian Posted on: July 23rd, 2013, 01:40:07
Reply: 244

Quoted from admin, posted July 20th, 2013, 16:12:14 at here

I have thought about using a bus bar because I happen to have one from a telephone exchange but I didn't see how it would be fitted. It's got short wires coming out at regular intervals on one side for connecting things to.



The bus bar I was talking about were equivalent of the terminal blocks here:


http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/connectors/connectors.php

They have various sizes depending on amperages. But a small one like that makes it far easier to add and remove grounds for things such as lights, gauges, etc without having to gang them up on a single post.

I would stick one of these in the dash, one in the back area near the tail lights, probably one in the engine bay (though those items can also ground to the subframe), and in my case, I may have a fair bit of electronic stuff, with seat heaters, etc, in the cab, so one additional one behind the driver's seat if I can find a good place for it.

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: July 23rd, 2013, 05:44:56
Reply: 245

Brian - I'm not sure what can be done either, just thought it best to let you know as quite a bit of my heated screen no longer works!

Posted by: Brian Posted on: July 23rd, 2013, 07:37:10
Reply: 246

Ah, fair enough. I'll ask around here for advice. (dad is an electrician). Will note it in the forums here if I get any input.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 4th, 2013, 16:33:43
Reply: 247

Latest progress - I've split the live and earth cables:

I've also tried to tuck the loom up under the LH door.  This would only work if a carpet can be made to sit correctly.
While I had the car out in the sun I did notice the rather large gap between the door and the door glass:

I take it there's a solution to this?  (Modify the mini door rubber?)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 4th, 2013, 16:40:23
Reply: 248

The next step is to drill through the bulkhead to get the earth to the engine compartment.  I had thought using a coach bolt type screw (i.e. shallow rounded head to sit flush to the floor) at the lower 'red dot' position:

From offering up the seats, this would be pretty clear of the passengers seat and clear of the subframe/fuel pipes/exhaust etc on the other side.  It would also be convenient for running the earths down from behind the dash.  Any thoughts on this solution?

Posted by: Peter Bremner Posted on: August 5th, 2013, 21:21:28
Reply: 249

Hello, how about a length of studding? A washer on each side against the glassfibre, then a nut and spring washer each side done up tight, then you will have an earth post on either side. Demon Tweeks etc do a proper (expensive!) bulkhead connector which amounts to the same thing.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 6th, 2013, 11:59:21
Reply: 250

I like your thinking Peter, and I have some 8mm stud too!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 8th, 2013, 19:09:37
Reply: 251

Okay - so I've made a little progress.  I've put a stud on the passenger side for the neg's, and one on the drivers side to take the pos through to the engine compartment.  (I thought I had a pic but discover I haven't).
I have managed to sort out the front subframe, rear mounts though:

When I say sorted - the moving of the car in and out of the garage plus jacking it up to put on the ramp stands must've settled things down because, with only a little elongating of the mount holes the subframe mounts were pretty close.  Happy days!  (You might notice all the nut are plain nuts.  I'll replace these with nylocs after the strip down and final build).
I've also fitted the starter motor.  Am I correct in thinking this is what I want to be putting the direct battery feed to?  (I really need to re-read John's electric book).
Is there a prefered position/method of earthing the engine and subframe - what do you attach the cable to for best effect?

This is the view I'm using for comparison:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 22nd, 2013, 12:10:57
Reply: 252

Did a little bit of sorting of the Rat's Nest wiring, comparing the mini with the MM loom yesterday.  Also got around to making up the cable from the bulkhead to the starter motor.
Simon - have you got a wiring diagram of how you wired in your heated front screen (I think you might have posted something previously but I haven't been able to find it)?  Where did you take the low current supply from?  If you've had elements burn out is there another supply you'd recommend trying?
Brian, heated seats!  Luxury  ;D

Posted by: Brian Posted on: September 22nd, 2013, 15:33:19
Reply: 253

The low current supply will want a switch on the dash. I'd run a wire from the back of the ignition to toggle switch to relay. That way it turns off with the car.

Posted by: Brian Posted on: September 22nd, 2013, 18:35:30
Reply: 254

I was thinking about this more. The "low current" thing is something tough to control electrically.

You'll still want to use a relay to power it. Operate the relay with a wire from ignition to a toggle on the dash, then to the low power input on the relay.

For the bigger wire out of the relay, you do input to the relay from a big wire, possibly the battery cable. Fuse it between the battery wire and the relay. As for limiting current, that's a bit tougher, but the best you'll do is to limit the voltage to it. There are a few ways I can think of, ranging in cost and complexity.
* Many older cars used smaller wire than should be used, to cause a voltage drop over the length of the wire. For example, this is how the ignition switches in older cars worked, allowing it to get the needed 6 volts at the coil.
* If "correct" wire sizes were used for ignition instead, then a ballast resistor is needed. Similar could probably be done for the heater element. I suspect dropping the voltage to 10-12 (versus the 13-16 normally experienced when running) will help some. We'd need to know how many amps the screen draws, then pick a resistor that will drop the voltage sufficiently for that current.
* Not practical, but a 12 volt regulated power supply could be used. I use one of these http://www.opussolutions.com/shop/50/Sub_ATX_DC_DC_Power_Supplies/0.html for some radio gear in my race car that wants cleaner 12v. They take in 8 to 40 volts, and put out a clean 12 volts. But I assume the front window heater will take more than 6-10Amps.

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 05:48:15
Reply: 255

Graham - here's the wiring diagram I used. Unfortunately, I didn't use a low current supply for the front screen, which is why the elements burned out! I was hoping that using a 1A fuse would mean there wasn't too much current flowing, evidently it's still too much.

The timer relay I used is this one, it's variable and you can set it to various modes, including one (called mode 3 on the website) which uses a standard toggle switch and resets when you switch it off:

http://www.circuitsolutionsonline.com/cso1-multi-function-relay.html

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 05:54:33
Reply: 256

Photo didn't upload for some reason, trying again...

Posted by: Brian Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 16:10:04
Reply: 257

1a and even the 8a limit on those relays seems quite low for the heaters. Is there a chance you've slow blown the fuse?

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 16:53:48
Reply: 258

The elements on the screen went gradually, at first only a few were broken and eventually it spread to the rest (as they were drawing more current I suppose) - I tried using a 100 ohm resistor in series to reduce the voltage (before the faults occurred) but then it didn't work at all...

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 17:24:06
Reply: 259

This heated screen topic is something that is quite interesting to me..  Could somebody provide the resistance of the screens as supplied?  From that figure we can work out the nominal current draw at 12V and look at ways of perhaps improving element life?  

My current (no pun intended) hypothesis is that it could be that the screen isn't getting the full 12V it is designed for and is thus drawing more current as a result?  

Or could it just be that the elements in the screen are "weak" in places and are simply burning out ?


Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 20:53:50
Reply: 260

I did some basic resistance tests of both screens when they were put in, can't remember the exact readings but the rear should take about 15 Amps and the front was very low, less than 1 Amp. The supply is direct from the battery so should be over 12V - the voltage gauge says when running the system produces about 14V with nothing running.

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: September 23rd, 2013, 21:25:05
Reply: 261

That is a huge difference in current drawn, far greater than the comparative size of the heated area..

Going on those figures, and assuming a steady 12V feed, the respective resistances are 12ohm and 0.8ohm.

At 14V which you would expect when running you get 14ohm and 0.93ohm.

Something around 1ohm seems about right to me;

P=I^2 R gives you 209W at 0.93ohm which seems reasonable, however at 1A and 14ohm it gives 14W - barely enough to light a Neon, and certainly not enough to heat a screen..

I hate to say this but I suspect (and I have absolutely no proof) that you have been supplied with a faulty screen.

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: September 24th, 2013, 08:18:41
Reply: 262

I did suspect that it was possibly faulty Craig, but apparently I was the first to actually wire one in so there are no comparisons! If someone else out there has a heated front that's not connected, it would be interesting to see any measurements they have.

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: September 24th, 2013, 18:16:50
Reply: 263

Quoted from Simon Robinson, posted September 24th, 2013, 08:18:41 at here
I did suspect that it was possibly faulty Craig, but apparently I was the first to actually wire one in so there are no comparisons! If someone else out there has a heated front that's not connected, it would be interesting to see any measurements they have.



Whilst not a direct comparison quite a lot of Midas owners have bought heated front screens, perhaps worth asking the question over on the Midas forum

http://midasownersclub.co.uk/forums/index.php?sid=e2bcc1079d264120eee6580fb6771d45

Posted by: Brian Posted on: September 24th, 2013, 18:39:42
Reply: 264

I need to check my window, but as I understand it (I can't recall where I read that, though, so I might just be making it up), the front screen has a circuit for the left side, and a separate circuit for the right side. Did you have the same behaviour on each side?

Posted by: Brian Posted on: September 24th, 2013, 18:40:59
Reply: 265

Quoted from Simon Robinson, posted September 24th, 2013, 08:18:41 at here
I did suspect that it was possibly faulty Craig, but apparently I was the first to actually wire one in so there are no comparisons! If someone else out there has a heated front that's not connected, it would be interesting to see any measurements they have.



It might be a few days, but I'll try to get a tester on my heated screen. It's not installed yet, so that should be fine, I just need to dig it out :).

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: September 24th, 2013, 18:54:28
Reply: 266

Brian - my screen only has two wires, one on either side - it only operates as a single screen. Not sure if yours is different but worth knowing what readings you get.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 27th, 2013, 19:35:49
Reply: 267

Just had a closer look at the screen I have.  It too only has two wires - one on each end of the screen.  I'm some way off fitting/wiring this but I look forward to the outcome of this discussion.

More important right now - can anyone make sense of how I need to check the position of the door mirrors, for IVA purposes?  It's got me confused  :-/

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iva-manual-for-vehicle-category-m1

Sect 08 refers.

In the diagram in the manual (with floor marking 'A', floor marking 'B' and floor marking 'C') does the car get moved around so that the offside is in line with 'a', the nearside with 'c', the centreline with 'b'?

I understand the seat needs to be in the rearmost position for the test, the mirror must move (forward and rearward) with a force of 10kg, it has to be at a certain height (what height though?)

All I'm after is fitting the door mirrors!

Perhaps Mr Dickens has some recent experience of the IVA?

Posted by: Brian Posted on: September 27th, 2013, 20:17:28
Reply: 268

I was curious and just had a peek, that document is incredibly confusing :). Bureaucracy at work!

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: September 27th, 2013, 21:20:57
Reply: 269

The way I read it is:
With the car in a fixed position, sitting in the rearmost position, for a drivers door mirror you need to see the mark at drivers door mirror height on pole A and at the same time see all the 2.5 m line on the floor.
Similarly with the interior mirror you need to see the mark at interior mirror height on pole B and all of the 20m line. Same with the passenger side mirror, pole C and the 4m line.

The way they have drawn it is confusing. A is how it is drawn, B should be drawn on the centre line of the car, C should be tight against the car as A but on the other side.

I suspect they have these laid out on the floor as drawn, at the test centre and so do move the car about to line up because of different widths of car. For home checking the lines can be laid out to match the car.

You need the drivers mirror but only need one of the other 2 two mirrors

But I'm no expert, only the way I read it.

Posted by: Brian Posted on: September 27th, 2013, 22:45:01
Reply: 270

Jim, that seems like a quite sensible reading, and jives with what I can see.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 28th, 2013, 14:27:52
Reply: 271

Thanks guys.  That does seem a bit clearer Jim, the way you've explained it - I take it if you're able to see the line on a vertical pole at mirror height AND the line on the floor, anything above thatt line height mustn't be important!
I'm planning on both door mirror's and an interior mirror.  I'm not sure the interior mirror alone would satisfy the requirement of the 20m line at 60m - out of interest, any care to comment if the rear field of vision is that good on a MM?
Brian, what do you need to satisfy to get the car registered in the US?  I seem to recall the UK was one of the few (the only) country in Europe who challenged the small volume vehicle rules to allow kit-cars to be built by individuals, when they were last changed by Brussels.  At least it means the cars will be built to a 'reasonable' standard though.  Although who would want to drive around in a car that managed to 'cut corners' I don't know.  (I'm enjoying following your Mk6 progress by the way.  Whatever method of registration you have to employ, you'll soon be overtaking me with the momentum you're building up  :) )

Posted by: Brian Posted on: September 28th, 2013, 15:49:33
Reply: 272

Within the US, California is typically the strictest of all, mostly in terms of smog/emissions.

For example, to bring a car from another country, it typically must meet the emissions and safety features/requirements of the year it was created, as long as the car is 25+ years old. But, in CA, the it's locked to pre-1975, generally making it impossible to import a newer than 1975 car into the state.

However, about 10 years ago, a law was passed in CA that allows the first 500 new kit cars each year to get a perpetual nearly free pass from the requirements. These kit cars that get the pass need to meet the emissions requirements for the year the car "resembles" instead of the current year; if it doesn't resemble an existing vehicle, then it is assigned the requirements for 1960. However, from 1960-68, the only requirement was to have an enclosed crank case. After about 1975, it would start needing smog (emissions) testing every 2 years. I have printouts of the 1965 literature, so I'm assuming I will be classed as either '65, or since there weren't any others sold in the US, then maybe the 1960 default.

As an interesting trivia, the 500 sequence numbers allowing a build, used to all be taken in the first few hours of the first day of the year. Last year, however, there were some leftover at the end of the year. And this year, when I applied in April, I got one in the 30s (out of 500). I guess there aren't so many kit car builds lately.

As for street requirements/testing, I have to do a few tests, none nearly as involved as yours. I'm actually going to try to follow the IVA rules a bit to make sure I'm roadworthy. As for my tests, I have to work with 3 different agencies:
* the highway patrol (CHP -- police officers) to verify that the parts were legally purchased. Normally, I should be able to just take the car there in pieces with receipts, but my local office requires it, as department policy, to require the car to be in "finished state", at least in terms of lights, safety equipment, etc. I presume they will do a check that it complies with laws, such as the correct tires, mirrors, etc -- though nowhere as thorough test as the IVA, I can't tell because it will probably be an officer just looking for illegal stuff.
* after that, I need a local testing company to certify the brakes and lights. They will make sure the headlights are aimed properly, and adjust if needed. They will make sure the brakes perform, and that there is a functioning fluid light. And they will check for a horn, and that all the turn/stop lights work. This is usually the only safety test, if my local CHP didn't have that policy.
* bureau of automotive repair. This is where I need to get the "year" assigned. Then, they will do an emissions test. And as a pre 1975, they will need to test the emissions, and then delete the results in the computer and type in "exempt" in the place.

As for my plans, I had lots of delays in organizing; I had planned on having the shell ordered in Jan, and then delivered in May, etc. The way I registered it, it's going to be best if I meet those trials by the end of the year.

As for progress, I'm working hard to keep my momentum up. I try to go to the garage at least 4 times a week, but sometimes only for a few minutes. Just trying to do "something". Even if it's spending 10 minutes putting tools back, or attaching one thing. Also, I'm trying to keep it so I have at least 2 viable projects to work on at a time. That way when I find I'm missing something for one project and need to order it, I can still get other work done. So far, I've been bouncing from front and rear subframe assembly. And now I can work on fuel/wiring, too.


Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: September 30th, 2013, 19:23:09
Reply: 273

The top of windscreen mounted interior mirror was so useless on mine I took it out! Some people have dash mounted ones and I think these are better. I also depends a bit how tall you are... an interesting one when checking field of view for a IVA test, as it doesn't specify the height of the tester.

Posted by: Brian Posted on: October 1st, 2013, 19:04:11
Reply: 274

Graham,

I'm getting to the stage of setting in the subframes. I had a few questions from things that I wasn't able to catch from your pictures of the process:

* For the rear, did you end up leaving the subframe offset to the right? Or did you do a fill and relocate ite?

* You mentioned that someone warned to get the subframes aligned to avoid crabbing -- did anyone get back to you with what to do there?

But in general, looking at your pictures, I'm a lot more confident in my next few steps here, though it's going to be a pain to get these mounted :).

-brian

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 13th, 2013, 17:34:47
Reply: 275

Got an hour in the garage this afternoon.
I managed to get the boot drain fitted:

And I got the mirrors fitted:


Not sure now whether I like these as much now - they might get changed for some smaller Formula Ford types after IVA.  No doubt I'll get used to them between now and then  ;D

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 13th, 2013, 17:36:49
Reply: 276

As for earthing the engine block, is the exhaust manifold nut any good?  (I suspect the conditions may be too hot and lead to failure/corrosion)

And do I need to earth the front subframe to the engine too?

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: October 13th, 2013, 18:09:04
Reply: 277

I brought an earth from the battery to one of the bolts for the top shock mount, then used that point to earth the engine block and electrics for the front of the car.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 18:41:19
Reply: 278

I've got the stud at the bulkhead to attach to Neil, but what did you attach the strap to on the engine?
And do you think I need to earth the front subframe seperately as well as the engine? (and the rear subframe too, really).

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 18:54:14
Reply: 279

The standard mini earth to the engine is from the subframe to a starter motor bolt. That also makes sure the connection is where the most current is required. Earth the subframe anywhere it's all electrically conductive. I connect inside the car to one of the subframe bolts through the floor at the back of the front subframe, but then again my cable is inside the car and I have no carpets.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 19:04:07
Reply: 280

Thanks Jim.
Have you got a seperate earth on the rear subframe also?  I've got one to the tank.

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 19:14:33
Reply: 281

I have a beam axle not a rear subframe, that is not earthed. But I have used one of the rear subframe mounting bolt holes to hold a bolt acting as a terminal to earth the tank and rear lights etc.

Posted by: Brian Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 21:11:10
Reply: 282

The subframes shouldn't _need_ to be grounded explicitly, unless you are using them for electrical connections.

The fuel tank wants to be grounded for two reasons -- one is that the fuel level sender often uses this connection, and you need a good stable ground connection for your gauge to be accurate. But, also, you want to make sure that there is no large voltage differential between  your fuel tank and other nearby pieces of metal. I.e. you're filling your car with gas, and touch the body of the car (on a metal car), you don't want to have a shock. So, it may be a good idea for the rear subframe to be connected to the fuel tank, since they're so nearby.

Also, I've heard that on older all-metal cars, large sheets of ungrounded metal (hoods, doors, etc) would have a tendency to cause radio interference. Not sure if it is because they are a large sheet of metal or due to their mass...if the latter, then it would probably be a good idea to make sure that all the metal on the car is electrically connected to eachother. This would be subframes, fuel tanks, roll cages, engine.

I said it before, but probably worth mentioning again: bolts/nuts aren't good conductors, so make sure that if you're using a bolt into a subframe or any other part, make sure that the things you want to be electrically conducted are physically touching eachother. If you want to ground a lug to a subframe, via a bolt, make sure to scratch some paint off the subframe, and that the bolt is just holding the lug into contact with the subframe. Otherwise, you'll end up with flaky grounds, which can cause weirdness with gauges, and other electrical issues.

Posted by: admin Posted on: October 14th, 2013, 22:26:40
Reply: 283

The fuel gauge sender usually has an earth tag on it, and this is the best way to earth the tank and sender.

Normally the two subframes will be connected by the brake line so if the front one has the usual strap to the engine there is no need to earth the rear subframe separately. Don't connect the battery to the rear subframe or you risk putting starter current through the brake line. An electric fuel pump needs a separate earth as it is insulated from its bracket on the subframe.

(ahem) I have used a bolt through the bulkhead crossmember to connect the earth cable from the battery (on the inside) to a strap to the engine. Actually it's a contact from a broken solenoid and I think it's copper plated steel. This has the advantage that I can earth the instruments, heater, etc on the inside.

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: October 15th, 2013, 07:34:47
Reply: 284

Having had some "interesting" problems with dodgy electrical supply (the 'best' was when the live feed was corroded - switch on your indicator at 60mph and the whole car died...) make sure any connections are well protected from the elements. A good layer of copper grease will help.

Posted by: Brian Posted on: October 15th, 2013, 09:36:23
Reply: 285

Quoted from admin, posted October 14th, 2013, 22:26:40 at here

(ahem) I have used a bolt through the bulkhead crossmember to connect the earth cable from the battery (on the inside) to a strap to the engine. Actually it's a contact from a broken solenoid and I think it's copper plated steel. This has the advantage that I can earth the instruments, heater, etc on the inside.



The copper bolts are fine, and designed for that. But the standard ones you find on the garage floor aren't as good. A copper lug is a good idea for getting earth from engine bay to dash, I'll probably use that method.

With our Corvair, we had some issues with wiring before we ran a ground strap to the body shell, even though the motor is bolted directly to the chasss (sizeable bolts through a piece of rubber, and into the car's body. Perhaps we had some rust insulation going on, though :).

I also probably get a bit over-engineery on some of that stuff -- my dad's an electrician, and a flatmate is a manager at a battery distributor, and we all work together on the cars...

Posted by: Brian Posted on: October 17th, 2013, 05:29:16
Reply: 286

There was some talk a few weeks back about heated screens. I had been under the impression (without seeing one in person) that the heating elements were split in a right and left circuit. I just was re-reading the Summer club magazine, and realized where I got that impression. There's an article in there about the Midas screens having two sides, I must have assumed that they were all the same (since a page or so later, it talks about the Mini Marcos screens, too).

So much for reading comprehension!

Posted by: Brian Posted on: October 18th, 2013, 10:11:14
Reply: 287

Quoted from admin, posted October 14th, 2013, 22:26:40 at here
The fuel gauge sender usually has an earth tag on it, and this is the best way to earth the tank and sender.




My tank sender (AAU8340MS from minispares) just has the one connection from the gauge to it. And since it's isolated from the tank by the cork, I guess the electrical connection is through the screws into the tank...

I may just solder a ground wire onto the sender unit, since I didn't get the fancy copper washers and the screws that they suggest.

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: October 18th, 2013, 13:26:03
Reply: 288

My tank sender is the same, Brian - use any one of the mounting screws to earth it. Make sure it's a good connection though, mine was constantly reading about 1/4 tank lower than it should until I ran a new earth connection...

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 20th, 2013, 09:17:53
Reply: 289

Quoted from Brian, posted October 17th, 2013, 05:29:16 at here
There was some talk a few weeks back about heated screens.


I was thinking about this during my long drive to work.
Where is the feed for the rear screen taken from?  I realise the element wires are thicker for the rear screen, but could the same source not be used?
Also does the rear screen normally have two 'tangs' for the wires to connect to?  My rear doesn't seem to have any connections at all!


Posted by: admin Posted on: October 20th, 2013, 11:28:28
Reply: 290

The heated rear window has two terminals. I run the wires up to the hinges on the inside of the rear hatch then loop under the hinges with two snap connectors so that the hatch can easily be removed. Polarity is not important. One wire goes to the battery negative terminal (the battery is at the rear) and the other goes via a relay to the fuse box. The primary circuit of the relay is fed from the switched ignition circuit (green) via a switch. If you don't use a relay the switch contacts are likely to get burnt out fairly quickly.

I did think about using the hinges to carry the positive and negative feeds but discounted it for a variety of reasons.

Obviously if you have a fixed rear window then te wires can go straight down.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 21st, 2013, 14:15:33
Reply: 291

I thought there should be two terminals.  I'll have to have a closer look to see if there's any evidence that they've been snapped off.
I'm a long way off needing a working rear screen though  :-/

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 23rd, 2014, 15:40:36
Reply: 292

Just spent all weekend changing the head gasket on the mini, after losing power this last week.  I needed to do it - it's used daily, but I couldn't help thinking that it would've been two days better spent in the garage, on the MM!
After five months inactivity I did decide to do something towards that car when I'd tidied up after finishing the mini - I now have a 5 switch panel:

Unfortunately I managed to put a few scratches on it when opening up the hole to accept the power socket, so it'll need painting.
Oh well, small steps  :-/

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 29th, 2014, 14:50:06
Reply: 293

Had some wrinkle paint left, which I thought might look okay (retro!) against the fake carbon fibre dashboard:

So now I have an extra heated screen switch, ready for the front screen (one day!):

I think I'm back where I started from  :-/

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 6th, 2014, 16:04:33
Reply: 294

Hmm - electrics, eh!  :-/
Did I think it would be as simple as connecting up the wires and Bob's your uncle?
I've connected up the battery to the +/-'s, and put my battery charger on to prevent the battery being drained and started checking what works.
Test one:
Side lights on:

So why isn't the right hand side light (LED's) work?
Side lights on, only the front right side light works:

Switching to headlights, the front right side light goes out, and the brake lights at the rear come on:

Now, when I connected up the battery, the dashboard fog light switch was illuminated in the off position.  With the switch in the headlight on position, the fog light illuminates, but the switch goes off:

I've swapped the fog switch wires around (I don't think it makes any difference in the case of the dash switches) with no effect.
And the heater has a strange effect too - being posh I have the two speed fan.  The first speed has no effect, the second speed sets the fan away, but also has the effect the same as switching the headlight switch to the headlight position i.e. LHR tail light and brake lights on!
Bloody electrics  >:(

Posted by: Bent Larsen Posted on: April 6th, 2014, 19:47:27
Reply: 295

Seems like something needs grounding  ;)

Bent

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 3rd, 2014, 19:48:02
Reply: 296

This has been keeping me busy of late:



Unfortunately from this:

not the Marcos, so no progress on that  :(
All those building, keep the updates coming - gives me something to look forward to!

Posted by: Joost van Dien Posted on: May 8th, 2014, 10:48:44
Reply: 297

I had the same light problem with my yellow one when doing the wiring. The ground was not good. The wire was not good connected with its plug or the ground was not good at the point were a few cables came together. Try running a wire direct from the battery to the earth of your LED light.

Good luck

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 25th, 2014, 13:44:01
Reply: 298

Well, I've got the engine back in the mini, so have been able to spend a little bit of time back in the garage on the MM (shamed by all the progress made by Steve!).
I've got a problem that I'm hoping someone on here can help with.

I've now got front side lights, dipped and main beam. I've got rear tail lights, brake lights and a rear fog light.  But I have no indicators.  I did think with the fronts being LEDs and the rears being normal bulbs it would be like having a blown bulb i.e. they would flash at double speed. But nothing!  I have heard you can get LED compatible relays which might be a solution (and how do I test the standard relay for operation?  Could it be the column stalk at fault - how do I test that?

Also a question regarding the windscreen wiper/motor.
I connected this up, ignition on, put the wiper stalk to on. Nothing, in any position. I took the motor and drive out and noticed the motor was hot. I'm guessing the bend in the pipe that the drive goes into is too tight, as the spindles are quite easy to turn (without the drive shaft in).
But when I connected the motor/drive without the drive being in the pipe I have intermittent wipe (low speed) and low speed but as soon as I turn the switch to hi-speed, or try to use the flick wipe (also operates at hi-speed) the fuse in the main fuse block blows.
Is this hi-speed controlled within the motor assembly? Have I fried something inside and will need to need to replace the motor?

While I'm on here asking questions, to test the reverse light, if I bridge the two pins on the white plug which connects to the reverse switch with a piece of wire, should the reverse light illuminate?
Thanks.

Posted by: Steve_Schmidt Posted on: August 26th, 2014, 08:54:57
Reply: 299

Take your time mate, don't feel pressured into finishing it off by other builds that move along faster - it'll all come together in good time.

I don't know anything about LED lights as indicators or anything else ::) , but if you disconnect the LEDs and attach temporarily some normal globe holders and globes you should be able to determine if the indicator stalk or flasher can is at fault.

With the wipers - if the motor works at low speed, but shorts out at high speed, I'd be looking at the switch rather than the motor.

Connecting the reversing light switch wires together (bridging) should complete the circuit and turn the lights on. Check that one of the wires goes to the fuse box or another power supply whilst the other goes to the lights.

Love reading about your build, keep plugging away and keep us posted.


Posted by: Goff_Allen Posted on: August 26th, 2014, 17:46:46
Reply: 300

Graham
I have LED back lights including indicator lights and normal bulbs at the front, I bought my leds from
car builder solutions and asked the question do i need a different flasher unit, Yes was the answer , you need this one (photo attached) this cost around £10  , My harness is a Mk 2 mini and only uses 2 wires ,this flasher unit as 3 connection , I am not up to speed on modern minis if your flasher as more than 3 wires phone CBS and ask ???? ,My works a treat
Wiper motor , Check as Steve say's , but sometimes the big cog that that drives the spindle wire seizes up ( the grease dries out ) remove the screws that attach the plate, remove the horse shoe and fiber washer ect ,note the positions and see if the big wheel is not siezed in its bush housing , I have had a couple of these in the past, but usually really old ones that have been stood for years!!!
reverse light , test if you have power going to the switch ,as Steve says bridge the switch or put the car in reverse ,you will probably need the ignition switched on !
Keep up the good work and i hope this helps.
Goff

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 26th, 2014, 19:17:31
Reply: 301

Steve - no pressure (other than that which I put on myself, to try and be ready for Le Mans Classic 2016) - I just can't wait to get driving it.  And I'm jealous of the progress you've made ;) .  Goff too, with that Jem!

Goff - that might be just what I'm after, for the LED front indicators.  It'll be the weekend probably before I can get back in the garage to have another crack at it (fault diagnosis).
I have the MG steering column stalk which I can try and use to confirm the stalk being the problem.

I don't think the wheels are seized - with the motor connected up, stalk set to intermittent or 'one', the motor turns and the wire drive spins.  No harm in stripping and looking though.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 30th, 2014, 15:06:39
Reply: 302

So, I've changed over the stalks (remember that MG steering column I bought?  Switches are exactly the same), and exactly the same thing happens - intermittent and low speed are fine.  Go onto high speed and the fuse immediately pops.
So what's the problem?  Wires between the wiper motor and the switch connection?  (I hope not - that'd be within the loom)
I also think I need a new washer bottle motor.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 6th, 2014, 18:41:15
Reply: 303

Okay so I've been checking continuity of the wires from the column stalk to the wiper module, and the wiper module to the motor.
I think I've identified a broken wire - one of the green/brown ones between the module and the motor.
In order to test this theory I need to remove the green/brown wire from the centre of this block:

and run an replacement, external wire to check the high speed function, back into the block:

And is there a way to test the wiper module:

I only get continuity across 2 of the five pins.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 7th, 2014, 18:57:55
Reply: 304

Okay - I've been a bit stupid!  For some stupid reason I connected the battery +ve before the -ve.
After a few sparks I managed to quickly removed it, but not before I heard some fizzing near from the front of the car.  I found a couple of blown fuses in the main fuse box (replaced) but now I don't have any ignition lights coming on.
I still have side/head lights, but without the ignition on I can't carry on with the wipers.
I've checked the four main fuses in the engine compartment (okay).  What can it be?

Electrics!!!!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 7th, 2014, 19:02:26
Reply: 305

Double post - nothing seems to be going right tonight  :-/

Even when I got my mini wind tunnel up and running yesterday, the results seemed to be the exact opposite of what I was expecting (using an MM model)!

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: September 7th, 2014, 21:07:23
Reply: 306

You have probably burned out the ignition feed wire, either before the fuse box or after or both.

You might also have melted the insides of the ignition switch. Happy hunting!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 13th, 2014, 12:45:13
Reply: 307

Okay - I've JUST gone into the garage to start chasing this fault.
First thing I do is switch the ignition on and..... the ignition light comes on!
This didn't happen after my moment of stupidity last week (even after I changed the fuses) so what's occurring here then?!?!?!?
Not that I'm complaining if it's sorted itself.  But I would like to understand why :/

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 13th, 2014, 18:35:05
Reply: 308

And then it didn't work, and then it did!
At least the horn works now.

I hate electrics :(

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 17th, 2014, 10:18:39
Reply: 309

Just a quick note while I'm on here to inform all - I haven't forgotten about my car!
I started a new job in July and haven't had a single day off since - needless to say the car has hardly been looked at.  But I have come up with a bit of a plan (hopefully!).

I'm on leave now until the new year (but do have some 'work from home' to complete  :( ) so have enquired locally to see if there is anywhere I can get the electrics completed.  (I decided it's meant to be a hobby i.e. fun, so I'll direct what time I have to the  bits I enjoy the most and try and find people to do the bits I don't enjoy so much as money allows.  If I don't, the car risks never being finished)

I'm also going to attempt to try and rebuild the gearbox I have, ready for use.  I also need to progress my college project (stagnated for many months now!), do the jobs around the house I've been too busy to do for the last six months or so, and hopefully spend a bit more time with the family.

I'm still aiming for 2016 LMC - here's hoping  ;D

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 5th, 2015, 18:41:26
Reply: 310

So - the cars gone...

And the mini's being spolit by being housed in the empty garage!
But not to worry:

It off getting the electrics done  ;D
Went up today to see it, and swap some bits over from the mini to eliminate some part.
The daylight running lights are powered, as are the LED indicators.  But I need a new dash (or printed circuit board at least) and a new wiper motor.  But all lights less the reverse light (no switch to hand) are now up and running.
So possibly by next weekend it'll be back in my garage and I can hopefully start saving up to get the engine parts!

Should add - I'm deeply jealous of the garage/workshop of the guy who's doing the work for me!

Posted by: Cedric_Malitte Posted on: April 6th, 2015, 02:54:11
Reply: 311

My pal at work who's mechanical engineer has a garage that looks like this.
Looks like he never do anything in it apart from wiping dust :)

I'm messy, so I won't show you any picture of my garage!

About electricity, I did many things on minis. And yes Lucas is the prince of darkness ! Almost burnt my first mini because of a main light switch.
Since that trouble, I put relays and fuses every time on every mini I had ;)
Contacts on the stalks are not that good at switching loads, and after some time, there is carbon building up on contacts.
This does resistance, so under heavy amperage it heats, then fire !

About your led lights, the direction ones, they do not "eat" as much current as the standard bulbs.
On the mini, the blinking relay is working with the current drawn by the lights.
It heats up a small blade that bends up and cut the circuit.
When getting colder, the circuit is closed, lights lit, blade warms and so on.

With leds, the current is over 10 times less, so it won't be enough to heat the blade.
Thus why you need a special timed relay, that will have a ground lug.

A general rule for cars with metal body is to unplug the battery ground first and plug it last.
I saw so many accidents and burns of people doing the reverse and hitting the body of the car with the wrench while trying to detach the + on the battery.

That said, I do not understand what happened if you plugged the + before the -, unless you swapped them, nothing should happen if everything is correctly wired.

As I say at work in the lab when we try a proto for the first time: no spark, no fume, we should be good to put in production ! :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 7th, 2015, 19:53:07
Reply: 312

Cedric, the front LED indicators have had resistors fitted as opposed to a specific relay fitted.
The rear lights have had heat sinks fitted.  The heated front screen will have a relay incorporated and fuses appear often throughout the circuit(s).
Needless to say - this would've taken me an age to achieve (if at all!)
Just need to save up for the engine bits now!
Can't wait to get it back....

Posted by: Cedric_Malitte Posted on: April 8th, 2015, 12:31:17
Reply: 313

Hi Graham,
yes resistors are another way to go but do some heat :) You should not have fog in the lenses !
I use marine fuses box to replace the box found on minis and many in line fuses. Less mess.

Anyway, you've got a nice mini marcos :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 11th, 2015, 11:47:05
Reply: 314

Cedric - I hope to have a nice car one day  ;)

The cars back in the garage now:

The rear lights - you can just see the heat soak if you look carefully.

He's tidied up the earth's under the bonnet area.

Heavier wire for the fuel pump.

Tidied up from front to rear!

I also gave the old loom that I removed from the car, which donated some connectors and the guy used the rear window heater section to create a 'new' heated front window loom.  These are just a few photo's I quickly took with my phone camera, but I'm really pleased to have the project moving forward again and to have the electrics largely out of the way (to a standard far higher than I'd be able to achieve).

There are still electrics items to be attended to - I need a new wiper motor, a new three clock dash (or at least the printed circuit that attaches to the rear of the clocks - I think you can get them separately) as well as final tidying to be done.  We discussed this and will finish this when the engines rebuilt and in and final cable runs can be decided.

Plan is now to arrange the garage to best effect to enable me to rebuild the engine with the car also in the garage, and then to get the bits for the engine rebuild.  While I'm saving for those bits I'll look to get the dashboard out and get the engine/subframe out of the car.

Happy days!  Le Mans Classic next year in the MM?  Lets hope so....

ETA - I also need a new engine relay, which I believe is an item shared with other Rover/Landrover models, so shouldn't be too hard to get my hands on.  It's good having an injection mini to be able ot swap bits over with to test/eliminate bits  ;D

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: April 11th, 2015, 13:08:25
Reply: 315

Graham - you can buy separate PCBs for the three clock dash, from Minispares and also some on eBay.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Cables/BAU1930.aspx

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 11th, 2015, 13:17:55
Reply: 316

Thanks Simon - I might try and get the dash out tonight if the kids insist on watching Britain's Got Talent  ::)

Just been out to turn the car around in the garage.  Here's the main neg return prep'd to be fixed into position eventually:

With the car as far back in the garage as possible I've got about 4' between the front of the car and my workbench - this will be my engine build space:


The green box of bits will be gone and the table will be under the shell when I lift it over the engine.  I'm looking to push the car as far forward as possible, chock the subframe, lift and reverse the shell back to the position it's at now.
With a bit of cleaning of the workbench I should be okay building an engine in this space this autumn, you think?
And a couple of photo's of the car in the sunshine:


;D

Posted by: Cedric_Malitte Posted on: April 11th, 2015, 15:22:33
Reply: 317

Nice !
You're getting closer  :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 12th, 2015, 15:21:43
Reply: 318

So I took the dash out last night:

Hopefully this is the problem (indicator tell tale not working):

While lying under the dashboard I took the opportunity to take the glove box out.  This is so I can line it with fabric.  I did this on the mini after getting sick off listening to thing rattle about.  Unfortunately I don't have enough material to complete it, but I'll get some this week and that can be next weeks job (and it'll be cheaper than getting the PCB!  That'll have to wait until next month I think):

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: April 12th, 2015, 19:02:22
Reply: 319

Graham - looks like you have the Nippon gauges, you will need to use the following PCB otherwise it won't fit!

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Cables/CDU3247.aspx

Somerfords is cheaper though:

https://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4934

South Lakeland Minis have it at about half the price of Minispares:

http://www.ekmpowershop28.com/ekmps/shops/southlakes/printed-circuit-board-instrument-pack-cdu3247-63762-p.asp

As with a lot of things, if you only need one item the shipping can be quite steep so often best to get those other little bits & pieces you need at the same time.

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: April 12th, 2015, 19:59:08
Reply: 320

I have successfully soldered one of these. Iirc I scrapped off the coating carefully then soldered it up and covered with plastidip or tape.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 26th, 2015, 16:10:40
Reply: 321

I got in contact with South Lakeland Minis - they weren't able to provide me with the PCB, but did direct me to somewhere that could.  apparently I got the last PCB still listed on the 'Rover' parts database:

So if you see any of these it may be worth buying and putting on the shelf (Minispares don't have any left - I didn't try Somerfords).  I've get the old one in case a future soldering repair is ever required.
Fitting it to the clocks was a bit of a faf, resulting in me having to take the clocks apart (the screws holding the PCB in place also holds the gauges in place - remove the screws and the gauges are free to move in the housing):

At least I was able to wipe away some of the dust that had accumulated.
I've also lined the glovebox.  I've done this on my mini many years ago after getting sick of things rattling around on the hard plastic.  Unfortunately I didn't have enough material left over to do another one.  I really didn't think it would be so hard to find a supplier of this foam backed type material, but it was!  I could only get a light grey material also, the minis material being black (and thicker).
When I took the glovebox off the car I found that it was damaged (the detent screws into the glovebox - on this one the holes had been damaged and the detent glued on.  Taking it off would've broken the flimsy plastic):


I started by making a brown paper template of the rear of the glovebox which I then cut out of thicker card:

I then cut the material to suit, giving enough of an overlap to wrap around the edges:

Next was to try and make a template for the bottom/top/sides of the glovebox.  This was made all the more difficult by the detent.  On the mini, after removing the detent it was reasonably straight forward to make a paper template and then cut out the material, the join was also position top dead centre and then hidden by the detent being screwed back into position.  On this I had to try and cut out around the  detent (pig of a job!).
Anyway, after much trial fitting and cursing here's the finished result:

Not quite as neat as the minis (damned detent), although I think the black material hides the imperfections better also.  You can see the spray glue has gone through the thinner material top left.  The upper left and right corners which look as if they've been missed in the photo but are covered, the curved surface of the box has caused the material to ruck and cast shadows.
I'm not totally happy with the outcome - the mini's is better and the thicker material has a more 'luxury' feel, but it'll have to do until I can get my hands on a better glove box (so I can hide the join line) but at least things shouldn't jiggle around, and re-doing this is so far down the list of things to do!
I'll look to get the dash and box back in the car over this next week - I may be able to get the front subframe/engine out of the car this next bank holiday.  I just need to save up for the engine bits now.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 4th, 2015, 16:15:43
Reply: 322

Well, the dash is back in, all lights now working.
And the glove box is installed:

I'm definitely not too happy with this.  The quality of the foam isn't a patch on the stuff used in the mini but as mentioned before - I now know how relatively easy it is to remove the glove box so if I can get my hands on another good one I'll have another go.
This is the one in the mini:

Much better!
I've also disconnected the electrics in the engine bay, undone the steering arms, subframe mounts and tower bolts.
All I need now is some additional muscle and I can get the shell off of the engine and start attacking that  :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 9th, 2015, 14:55:43
Reply: 323

Muscle arrived, shell lifted:

Need to get the engine out of the subframe next, but full of cold so won't be today!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 4th, 2015, 10:49:44
Reply: 324

Engine separated from subframe and loaded onto my home made dolly to ease movement:

Need to find a suitable stool/table on which to build the engine (the engine stand only works up to a point with the MPi block, learnt when I rebuilt the mini's engine):

And I've started gathering the bits I need.  Clutch kit, thrust bearings, centre main strap (not sure this is needed for the spec I'll be building, but if I get the opportunity in the future to increase the rev limit with an aftermarket ecu it might prove useful), silicon rocker gasket (thought I'd give this a go):

Also noticed this cable - it's been put through one of the holes used by the engine steady (a lovely DSN item I've bought a while ago).  There's no problem in unplugging and moving this - I'm looking to use the 'other' hole located right in the photo, but as I haven't drilled any of these holes, before I do use this, any ideas what this additional hole could be for?  Don't want to use it and then discover I need to move it again!

Moving forward again... slowly!

Posted by: Allan Brown Posted on: July 11th, 2015, 07:16:24
Reply: 325

Are those hole for the master cylinders if you wanted to make the car left hand drive? Therefore you wont need them.

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: July 12th, 2015, 16:57:48
Reply: 326

Unless he has an ultimate engine steady as that's where it bolts on.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 19th, 2015, 15:03:38
Reply: 327

More bits arrived:

Only pistons to go, then engine strip down and rebuild.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 19th, 2015, 15:13:25
Reply: 328

Engine steady of choice Mike:

Part of the DSN range.

Also got a DSN 'standard' engine steady:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 25th, 2015, 16:31:07
Reply: 329

Attacked the engine last night and today.  I get the impression that this engine might have had a bit of a harder life than my minis, based on the burnt oil smell of the old oil.
The main bearings are all this darker grey colour:

The con-rod bearings all looked good though and the crank journals all looked okay too:

Followers had some pitting (but will be replaced anyway of course) as did the camshaft.
Pistons will be replaced by 72.5mm items (giving 1342cc) which are lighter than the 'normal' +60 thou items I was going to use:

Lets hope I can get all of this back together:

Moving forward again at last  :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 3rd, 2015, 14:55:27
Reply: 330

Pistons arrived:


Took the block/cranks/pistons & rods etc along to Green & White's this morning who will be getting the machining done for me.
Also the gearbox I rebuilt (something not quite right with it so I'm getting them to look at it for me).
Should be ready for collection in a couple of weeks which will give me time to clean and paint the other bits.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 5th, 2015, 10:44:54
Reply: 331

Timing cover prepared for the duplex timing chain (dent removed, internal ring ground down) and painted:

Cleaned and sprayed the alternator bracket while I was at it:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 5th, 2015, 13:20:09
Reply: 332

Looking at other little bits & pieces I can get done while waiting for the big engine bits to return - the all important rocker cover.  I've got a choice of three:

Standard, MG Metro type or alloy.
Unless you can advise me differently, I don't think the 1.5 roller tip rockers I'm going to use will fit under the MG type cover (which is a pity as I like the look of this (middle) one).

I'm intending to give the cover a crackle black finish, which means roughing up the surface to provide a key before painting (hence something I can do in the meantime).  When I ran the alloy cover on the mini I never seemed to be able to get a good seal, it weeping oil from the cork gasket area.  Perhaps the silicon gasket will stop this, but it would be better if it had a lip to retain the gasket (like the radius edge on the standard tin cover).
I have painted a standard cover with wrinkle paint before and its lasted quite well on the mini (the edge starting to chip in a couple of places now):

The idea of painting it black is to fit the theme of limited bright work on the car (only the fuel filler so far).
Opinions?

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: August 6th, 2015, 15:49:06
Reply: 333

I'm using the MG cover with 1.5 roller rockers, and I have an offset valve head which makes matters worse. I needed to remove a very small amount of metal to clear the rockers at either end but there was plenty thickness. I suspect without offset exhaust valves it will probably clear without any metal removal.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 6th, 2015, 19:11:48
Reply: 334

Is this going too far:

I'm not usually one for tarting up bits - as long as somethings clean and servicable, but I've quite enjoyed cleaning up the components this week.
If nothing else it uses up the part used spray tins I've had on the shelves for ages!
I'll have a crack at the MG rocker cover Jim, if it looks like it might work.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 7th, 2015, 17:44:10
Reply: 335

Looks good painted:

The chrome cap might look good against the black - I'll try and see if it fits when its dried properly (up to 48hrs to dry fully and for the wrinkles to appear.
Also modified the cam cover plate today to accept the countersunk screws.  My little hobby drill isn't really that good, but is good enough for this (with a little cleaning up with a needle file afterwards):


Posted by: mike brown Posted on: August 7th, 2015, 17:54:29
Reply: 336

I would suggest the problem with the countersinks lay with the countersink not the drill. Either blunt or the wrong type for the material.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 8th, 2015, 10:34:35
Reply: 337

Mike, it's a reasonable new countersink, for 'metal' but when you lower the drill bit you can move the vertical pillar.
I try and keep the table as close to the bit as possible to try and reduce the movement, and only clamp up the work piece after offering up the bit to the job (to try and centralise the drill).
But its better than the hand drill stand I had previously (and it was cheap), but I won't be doing any real precision jobs with it!
That'll have to wait until I've won the lottery and move into a properly equipped little workshop  ;D

Rocker cover has now dried (still another 24hrs to harden though):

The wrinkles aren't as tight as the metal cover on the mini - I seem to remember that I cured that in a cool oven (as recommended on the tin) to achieve a tighter wrinkle but it looks okay.

I'm not sure if I preferred the smooth paint to be honest, but if it's good enough for a 60's Ferrari....

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 8th, 2015, 13:30:23
Reply: 338

I have this oil pressure gauge fitted to the car:

I thought I'd take it out and have a closer look how it's meant to be connected up.  I have previously bought an oil gauge connection kit comprising fittings and pipe to try and allow me to mock up to the back of the gauge.  Unfortunately the fittings don't seem to match:

With the gauge on the left and working left to right, the first bright connector screws to the back of the gauge.  The next piece I thought would connect to the first piece, sleeving down the diameter and has an internal face (on the right hand end as viewed) to receive an olive.  Unfortunately its the wrong size to fit the first piece.  Next is the olive, followed by the retaining cap (through which the pipe fits).  The larger through piece on the right isn't part of the kit - it's a sump plug adaptor I have which can be used as a method for 'T-ing' in an oil pressure gauge.
The two pieces located above in the photo are another olive and retaining cap (for the other end of the oil pressure pipe).  But where on the engine would this connector plumb in to?
I can perhaps have an adaptor piece made if I can identify the threads or I'll need another fitting kit which will work with this gauge.
Given my recent experiences with high oil temperatures I'm tempted to perhaps get a combined temp/pressure gauge, but even if I do I'll need to run an oil pipe and have suitable fittings.
Anyone out there got any experience of fitting one of these gauges?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 8th, 2015, 14:35:28
Reply: 339

Looking at the other jobs that I can be getting on with over the next few weeks and one that immediately springs to mind is the fitting of the rear hatch.
The hatch has already been drilled prior to me getting my hands on the car - lets hope the holes are in the right place:

I believe there's a rubber gasket which should be fitted between the hatch and the hinge?
Also can someone tell me the thread/length of screw for these hinges:

I'll need some rubber seal for this aperture also - something like this:
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/large-bead-edge-seal
Will that be too large?  They do a smaller bead which may be more suitable:
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/edge-seal
Gone are the days of going down to the local scrappy and taking something that looks right for a couple of quid, eh?
Which leads on nicely to the next question - I'd like to fit struts to the rear hatch to keep it in an open position.
Can anyone advise me/direct me to a suitable type?  Also any pictures of these in position on your cars?
Looking at my hatch there isn't a lot of meat to drill into to position these - do you literally drill through the edge of the hatch?


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 8th, 2015, 15:50:45
Reply: 340

Why is nothing ever simple!  I thought while I had the hatch to hand I'd put in the new key/lock that I have (I bought a set of door/boot locks so that I'd have a common key - I never received any keys when I got the car), only to find the one fitted to the boot is a different design/type:

The old one has a screw which attaches at the base (interior side) and holds the latch in position.  The new one obviously doesn't.  Is it case of having to drill & tap a lock, or have I just bought the wrong type?

Moving onto the doors, I thought I'd swap them out but having opened the door in the garage I think that job can wait until the cars back on its wheels and there's no garage wall that the open door can bang into!

::)

Posted by: admin Posted on: August 8th, 2015, 15:58:29
Reply: 341

For the oil pressure gauge you really need to buy the complete pipe that goes with it, plus an adapter if you want to have an oil pressure warning light as well.

All the hinges have fibre gaskets but they aren't always used on Mini Marcoses. If you're at a Mini show in the south lookout for a guy called Keith (can't remember his surname) who always has a good stock of these.

You can get the rubber seal for the hatch from Phoenix Supplies among others. They regularly attend shows. The seal cross section is like an upside-down U that clips onto the flange with either an O or a C sitting on top of it, total height about 2cm. I can measure ine if necessary.

Posted by: admin Posted on: August 8th, 2015, 16:06:13
Reply: 342

You bought the wrong type. The barrel on the right is for a locking door handle. It is retained by a roll pin which engaes with the neck at the top (inside end). The barel on the left is for a panel lock which you are likely to have on the rear hatch and bonnet.

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: August 8th, 2015, 18:13:33
Reply: 343

I have used Seals Direct for the boot & door seals before, off the top of my head can't remember which one it was but they have plenty to choose from, the webpage shows all dimensions you should need as well as a cross section:

http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=68#23

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 8th, 2015, 18:37:56
Reply: 344

Thanks guys - looks like a  bit of trial and error with the seal dimensions and a new lock required.
Any idea of the screw thread / length for the hinge on the rear hatch?
Looking for other things to do this afternoon I've wrapped the exhaust manifold.  I've chosen a Specialist Component's stainless manifold after I experienced a split in the centre of the 'Y' on a Maniflow unit:

I must admit while the quality of this manifold is top notch I've never been able to achieve a total seal when using the SC manifold fitted to the mini.
I know from the wrapped Maniflow manifold, fitting this unit will be a pain in the behind - the wrap is just thick enough to push the centre pipe out of line with the head studs:

So that's done and back in the loft of the shed.
It did get me thinking though, about the exhaust system.  I don't have any exhaust hangers under the car (non on the rear subframe) so will need to find a solution to this.  Ideally I'd like a stainless system with a tail pipe exiting to the side of the rear panel but we'll have to have a think about the exhaust in relation to the fuel line/pump (on the underside of the floor in front of the tank).  I would like to have something mocked up even temporarily for when the engines built, in order to be able to run it up.  Don't suppose anyone has photos of the underside of their cars do they, to see what the options are?
I'm running out of little things that I can get done with the car propped up the way it is!  Never mind - the pace will slow down again next week (back to work!)

Posted by: Steve_Schmidt Posted on: August 8th, 2015, 20:12:45
Reply: 345

Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted August 8th, 2015, 18:37:56 at here
Don't suppose anyone has photos of the underside of their cars do they, to see what the options are?




Here's the hanger I made for the forward section of the rear subframe.


Here's how the muffler mounts at the rear of the subframe.


Twin pipes exit centrally under the fuel tank  at the rear.

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: August 9th, 2015, 10:08:43
Reply: 346

Ouch, get well soon.



Posted by: Joost van Dien Posted on: August 14th, 2015, 19:06:50
Reply: 347

Good work! The car is coming together nicely!
Look out with wrapping the manifold. I have done it before and thought it was good but it became so hot that with a bit of movement the manifold bend. At Maniflow they told me that wrapping it can make it to hot and stainless steel can become brittle. I hope yours stays fine.

Cheer, Joost

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: August 15th, 2015, 08:58:56
Reply: 348

I had the v weld crack then seperate again maniflow but steel and I was also told the wrapping could cause it.
Mike

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: August 15th, 2015, 10:52:29
Reply: 349

Still have nightmares about the seven hour session fitting the new manifold, trying to get it to clear the bulkhead. I ended up having to take half the driveshaft coupling off and undid the engine steadies to get enough clearance.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 15th, 2015, 16:15:16
Reply: 350

If money was no object I'd look to get the manifold Zircotech coated, but it's not, and I've got the wrap so lets see how we go  :)
I've found out the hinge threads were/are 1/4" UNF, managed to four suitable screws, looked at the first hinge and thought the threads could do with cleaning up.  Out with the tap, first hinge done.  Look at the second hinge for the first time - hmm....  One of the threads has been stripped  :-/
Wonder if this is why the hatch was drilled for fitting but not actually fitted.
I could perhaps try and  tap the hinge at a larger size - it's knackered anyway, or replace it.
Either way, annoying!

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: August 15th, 2015, 16:32:22
Reply: 351

You could try a helicoil.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 22nd, 2015, 12:00:01
Reply: 352

Looking to order my hatch seal this weekend.
While I'm at it has anyone bothered with putting a 'C' section seal around the bonnet opening?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 30th, 2015, 19:25:32
Reply: 353

So - unfortunately I haven't got the engine bits back yet (machining done but pistons not yet on the rods, block not prepped for building) so have been looking for things to do.
I bought a new boot hinge (less than £6) and offered up the hatch:

I didn't realise the hinges were handed - luckily I took along the old one.  I also learnt that the reproduction hinges are M6 thread - another possible reason why the old one was stripped?  So I've now got one that's imperial, one thats metric  :-/.  Fits in with the rest of the car then!
Despite loosening off the hinge to body to hatch fastening in order to try and get the best fit, the 'unique' way these cars are built means that the hatch catches on the body slightly:

The panel gap isn't that bad around the rest of the hatch.  I'm hoping the rubber seal I've ordered will lift the hatch slightly and prevent too much rubbing.
I can also only lift the hatch this much:

Does that look about right?  I can't lift it any higher (well I could but don't want to cause damage) because the lip of the hatch goes hard against the shell and I don't want to stress the area around the holes in the shell (for the hinge screws).
I did buy the gaskets that fit under the hinges (couple of quid) which will lift the hinges up a couple of mil, and I suppose careful mounting of a pair of struts will stop the hatch opening too much.
I'm still unsure of how the struts will attach to the hatch - there doesn't seem to much material to drill/attach them to.  Any one have any photo's?

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: August 30th, 2015, 19:33:08
Reply: 354

Graham - the hatch on my MK IV is held open with a high tech solution, a piece of dowel with rubber walking stick ferrules on either end to prevent any damage to paintwork. Came with the car and it still works...

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 30th, 2015, 19:35:09
Reply: 355

I also took the opportunity to measure the combustion chambers on the cylinder head I've ported for this engine (I couldn't remember if I'd matched them up or measured them its so long ago since I cut this head):

I must have because they were pretty close:

The first head I did, I spent ages measuring these again and again, trying to get them exactly right until I realised the little syringe I use (free with kiddies medicine) isn't really that accurate or finely marked.  But these seems pretty good so I stripped the head down again and dried everything off.
I marked up the washer jet positions:

I ended up moving them forward by about an inch as this position (which looks the best - sort of in a nice straight sweep, in-line with the spindles.  'A straight sweep'???? ) as the tube for the washer motor runs directly below here.
Anyway, got the drill out, set out the tape so the drill doesn't slip and couldn't then find the washer jets!
Bugger.  So stopped there for the night.
Oh well... A little bit further forward!

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: August 30th, 2015, 21:48:03
Reply: 356

You need to trim the vertical edge of the hatch where it hits the body normally a "bump" in the trim line is enough to get it to clear. As for the lifting height again trimming the vertical part of the hatch shoould allow it to open further mine used to go to about 45°. Both these trims are quite common on Marcos rear hatches in fact I'm pretty sure the mould I have (i made it off a friend's hatch) has them in it.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 31st, 2015, 09:49:23
Reply: 357

Mike - you mean trimming here:

Could that lead to potential problems with rain ingress?

Simon - I had though of that as a solution but I know that the Heritage car has struts and it would prevent the possibility of accidentally knocking the stick!
So they can be fitted.  Perhaps they are glued/bonded onto the hatch (as opposed to drilled/screwed).

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 5th, 2015, 15:46:55
Reply: 358

Fitted the boot seal this afternoon.  The shell thickness gets bigger at the top of the hatch so I only put the squishy stuff around the bottom:

Notice I've adopted the wooden stick approach at the moment also  ;D
I looked closer at the top edge (where it was sticking/catching.  Closer inspection showed that the way the headlining and the sponge under it has been fitted was causing the hatch to bunch the sponge/lining up against the lip of the body.  Carefully trimming the excess lining back (where it had been folded over the lip) gave clearance to open the hatch wider.  I've attempted to put a length of 'U' channel over this lip, but all I think I've succeeded in doing is putting the restriction back in place.  So I'm not sure how long that'll be staying in place.
Something I haven't noticed before (and I'm not sure if the photo will show it) but there's a couple of light (stress?) cracks to the right of the left hand hinge:

Have these been there all along?  Have they appeared since putting the hatch on?  I don't know.  But I'll keep an eye on these.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 5th, 2015, 15:53:41
Reply: 359

The other thing I got around to doing today was drill and fit the washer jets:


I've ranted on here before - who paints a car before drilling for all the fixtures/fittings  >:(
Despite careful use of tape and using new drill bits, on removing the tape there was flakes of paint broken away.  Judging by the colour the gel coat has at least some thickness left.
The guy who did the electrics runs a garage/bodyshop around the corner from where I live.  When he had the car up at his place doing the electrickery, I spoke to him about the body/paintwork.  Seeing as how the boot hinge needs to be painted, and I've found a couple of areas which has been scratched to the bottom of the gel coat (which I hadn't notice when I attempted my previous amateurish repair) I think some more work might be going his way   :-/

Posted by: Stuart Posted on: September 5th, 2015, 19:13:32
Reply: 360

A tip on the drilling, blunt drills don't dig in so quickly and chip, it makes sense when you think about.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 20th, 2015, 17:41:38
Reply: 361

Engine bits back on Friday, so block painted.  One more coat and it'll be ready to build.  Unfortunately the photos I've taken have disappeared from my phone.
While the paints been drying I've checked the running clearance on the crank - 1.5thou across all three journals.  That's slightly below the 1.7thou minimum the Haynes states but the crank was in good nick when t was pulled only requiring a polish.
I'll be able to gap the rings while the final coat of paint is drying - 10thou for a road engine.
One thing I have struggled to get is the crush washer for the oil temperature sensor for the MPi engine (same size as for the pressure relief valve I think, which I also need).
Building at last  ;D

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 26th, 2015, 15:57:02
Reply: 362




Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 26th, 2015, 16:02:44
Reply: 363

Crank in:

Then realised I hadn't measured the crank end float:

Here's where the problems started - no end float!  Not a bit.
I've used emery boards and emery cloth to clean up the rear face of the thrust washer and they are slipping in easier, but I'm running out of skin (and the will to live!).
Somehow I've ended up with 2 sets of thrust washers - one set measured 2.4mm, the other 2.35mm (using a vernier).  I reckon I'm down to about 2.3mm now (starting to go cross-eyed looking at the vernier)
I must admit I've only done the 'non-tab' pair so far, these being what felt the tightest.  I thought some movement might show up before I did anything with the tabbed pair.
Is it a case of just having to carry on with the emery cloth?

I should add - if you look at the circle where the oil pump sits you'll see the feed/return has been modified to aid oil flow.  Also the large feed hole (that has been modified to a tear drop shape) has been enlarged.  I wondered about these as a modification when I built the mini engine last year after seeing what an oil pump looked like, and when reading a mini mag in WH Smiths a little while ago Keith Calver described these very mods.  He also mentioned about 'through' drilling the crank (as opposed to cross drilling) - I would've had this done but the machine shop couldn't offer this service for some reason.  With the mini engine running hot this past summer (oil temp) at least if the Marcos runs warm I'll have done something to improve the rate at which the oil circulates.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 1st, 2015, 19:03:23
Reply: 364

Received one set of thinned down thrust washers in the post.  Fitted these tonight and recorded 0.035mm end float (slightly less than 1.5 thou).
Will this be enough?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 14th, 2015, 19:58:10
Reply: 365

Well, we're still progressing.....  slowly!

I need to finish the gearbox first:

Sod's law - fitted the diff today and now need 4 thou worth of shims.  And all I've got is 3 x 10 thou and 1 x 1 thou shim.  And looking on line you can't get anything less than a 6 thou shim  :-/.
I must admit when I was measuring the gap between the diff housing and the cap it felt as if the cap wasn't flat - by this I mean if I push on the top of the pot cap, I could nip the 4 thou feeler.  If I push the bottom it could slip.
Am I meansuring it correctly?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 19th, 2015, 19:16:01
Reply: 366





Now need to work out the CR and get the head skimmed.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 20th, 2015, 17:12:47
Reply: 367

So, the next step is to work out the compression ratio for the head I've got.  Which is what I've been working out this afternoon.

Working with the 22cc that I measured the head at this is my reckoning:
Ring land volume = 0.78cc
Piston dish = 6.5cc
Head gasket = 4.2cc
Combustion chamber = 22cc
Volume per cylinder = 335.5cc (1342/4)

Using the formula from Vizards book V+C/C (V=volume, C=Total combustion volume):
335.5+33.48/33.48 = 11.02

Hmm - I was aiming for 10.5:1
Now I could rework the chambers a little, or I could leave it as it is given that:
The ring land is probably a little conservative (figure relates to a 1275 engine);
Two of the chambers measured 22.1cc;
But
Two of the cylinders have piston that just protrude the block.

Now when I did the head for the mini, I got my calcs wrong (for how much to skim the head by).
That ended up somewhere around 11.2 or 11.5:1.  Running the car on Super plus unleaded I did 40k miles before it cracked a piston.

What do you think - leave it or make the chambers a bit bigger?
(Chamber size for 10.5:1 is around 23.84cc)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 3rd, 2016, 20:51:49
Reply: 368

Well - what do we think?


1342cc, big (inlet) valve head, 1.5 roller rockers, SW5i cam, lightened steel flywheel, centre main strap and balanced bottom end, Stainless LCB and 52mm TB to be fitted when in the car.
Should give me 90+ bhp if I've put it together properly.

If the lightweight aerodynamic bodywork allows it to pull 6300rpm in top (2.7 diff) that's 130mph give or take (if I can get enough fuel through the injectors!).

ETA - You'll notice a different rocker cover fitted.  The Metro item doesn't clear the roller rockers.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 6th, 2016, 17:54:56
Reply: 369

Okay - so progress has been slow of late.  Why?

A crack in the front subframe 1" long.
I've been looking for a mobile welder for the last three weeks or more and was all but at the point of buying a little MIG, but at the last minute managed to get a guy who's coming tomorrow to weld it up.
I can only think this has occurred as I've been picking it up, moving it around the garage (it must weigh ~40+ kgs).
Hopefully after this is done I'll be able to get the shell lifted back on.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 6th, 2016, 17:58:08
Reply: 370

Another thing I'm now paranoid about - my hubs.
On another thread there's reference to the metro brake system leading to wayward handling and excessive bump steer.
I've got the metro four piston, vented disc set up but how do I identify if the hubs are metro or mini?



I thought the metro hubs did away with the grease nipples - if this is correct I have nipples! (Therefore mini?)

Posted by: Pete Crudgington Posted on: March 6th, 2016, 22:22:35
Reply: 371

These are mini uprights, the metro ones have ball joints that screw into the uprights as sealed units rather than the adjustable mini style ones.

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: March 6th, 2016, 23:50:03
Reply: 372

I think you have two right callipers !!!

Also you'll never get good brakes unless you sort out the bleed nipples.

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: March 9th, 2016, 20:43:40
Reply: 373

Those callipers certainly look like they need a lot of TLC, getting stuck bleed nipples out is one hell of a job unless they come straight out with an easy out, which they normally don't. I also agree with Neil they look like 2 RH callipers.

If you do need to change them, I'd also think about going back to a solid disc rather than vented. Because the marcos is so light, on anything less than a full race car, where you are breaking heavily every few seconds, vented discs are over kill and tend to take too long to get up to efficient brake temperature giving poor initial braking. Solid discs are a lot lighter too and reducing unsprung weight is always a benefit.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 20th, 2016, 17:01:56
Reply: 374

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, but thanks for clearing up the hub issue.
Basically what's there then, is the Mini Turbo set up (apart from the two RH callipers)?
Once the front subframe is back in the car the plan was/is to set about the front end (wheel bearings, ball joints etc).  These callipers would have made a good 'return' pair
Point noted about the vented disc set up Jim.  I might look at the minisport four pot set up then (and start saving the pennies).  anybody got any experience with them? :-/
Thank to my missus asking around I managed to get a mobile welder to repair the (very annoying) crack in the front subframe:


And I've managed to line the shell up with the chocked subframe/engine.
Now all I need is time and some muscle to help me lift the shell in place.
Hmm...  Don't think it'll be ready for the LM Classic this year (a target I've had for the past few years).  What the next 'line in the sand' I can miss?
;)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 20th, 2016, 17:05:56
Reply: 375

Bloody Hell!!!
Just googled the minisport disc kits - how expensive.

Hmm - plan B, I think!

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: March 21st, 2016, 20:31:03
Reply: 376

Standard 8.4 discs & brakes? plenty on ebay in various conditions and prices. Interestingly at the moment there is also a set of non vented metro 4 pots, which don't come up that often. Looks like they need a full rebuild though. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-or-Metro-4-pot-brake-caliper-and-hub-assemblies-/272176818923?hash=item3f5f00aaeb:g:SVQAAOSwAuNW7HNy#ht_25wt_1190

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: March 21st, 2016, 20:51:17
Reply: 377

Just noticed someone is selling brand new sets of 8.4 calipers, drilled disks & ebc green stuff pads for £150. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEK175UR-MINI-FRONT-BRAKE-UPGRADE-KIT-GBC138-GBC141-GBD90806DG-DP2127-/181909271404?hash=item2a5aa3336c:g:T5YAAOSwEeFU206N#ht_2099wt_952
Hardly worth buying S/H at that price, although you would need some mini drive flanges as the metro ones you have won't fit.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 25th, 2016, 21:04:26
Reply: 378

Thanks Jim.
Solid 8.4" looks the way to go, and I'm sure I've got the flanges somewhere.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 2nd, 2016, 19:41:56
Reply: 379

Got hese through the post:

I'll paint the callipers before they get dirty - you won't be able to see them through the wheels but it may help the brake cleaner do it's stuff when servicing the brakes.
So with the shell on/engine in I've managed to get the front subframe rear mount back on and tightened up.  Next to offer up the exhaust manifold.  No problem getting it into position:

Sorry about the shaky pics - hope fully this next photo shows the next problem which surfaced - the lambda sensor mount:

Too tight for comfort!
It's a Specialist Component manifold.  I've got one on the mini too, so I had a quick look and sure enough, on that the lambda sensor position is more traverse to the engine bay.
Not to worry - there a second lambda position on the SC link pipe.  I'd have to extend the lambda wiring, but when I put the link pipe on I'm not sure if the lambda will interfere with the brake pipe position:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 2nd, 2016, 19:48:39
Reply: 380

Just a couple of pics I took with the mini's sport pack wheels on (the mini's still on the winter steels/winter tyres).  It looks quite good with these on I think:


But I've still got the offset to the right:

I'll be using the narrow winter wheels for the IVA I think  :-/

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 3rd, 2016, 18:06:41
Reply: 381

So, got the front subframe, rear mounts tightened today, along with trial fitting of the engine steady.
On that - I've misplaced the screws for the original engine steady (screws into the engine block).  Any idea what thread these are?
And got a couple of coats of paint on the callipers:

Progressing once more  :)

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: April 3rd, 2016, 21:10:54
Reply: 382

Engine steady bolt is 5/16'' UNF x 1 7/8''

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 9th, 2016, 11:31:37
Reply: 383

Thanks Neil - of course it is!
Fine in Iron, Coarse in ally.  Should've thought  ::)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 10th, 2016, 17:08:38
Reply: 384

So, this weekend I've managed to make a pair of front subframe, front mounts.  I took a couple of exhaust mounts, cut of the threads, drilled through and put a stud through to connect the subframe to the car (this after discovering the teardrop mounts wouldn't work):

I started fitting some of the ancillaries to the engine, primarily the coil pack:

I fitted the engine steadies (both sides):


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 10th, 2016, 17:24:57
Reply: 385

I managed to refit the gear lever and linkage.  One thing that's got me a bit worried - I can get the forward gears but can't seem to engage reverse  :-/
Offered up the coolant pipes.  I need to get some good quality, correct size jubilee clips now:

I offered up the upper radiator hose.  I need to get this from the engine side, to the radiator side of the very front slam panel.  I fitted up some of the panel edge rubber and offered the pipe through the gap.  It's not the most elegant of solutions but I can't think of another way of doing this:

I tried to remove the lambda sensor from the old exhaust manifold.  This obviously hasn't been removed since first fitting because all I succeeded in doing is round of the flats - I tried heating it for quite a while before hand too, so short of smashing the cast manifold I'm not sure I'll be able to reuse this:

The next thing I looked at was the speedo cable.  Looking at the mini I need to drill ahole almost directly behind the clutch cylinder:

So, some more progress - some more problems to overcome.

ETA Meant to ask - the silicon pipe I have to reach through to the radiator is too long.  What the best way to get a clean cut on these - hacksaw or stanley knife?

Posted by: L_Jonez Posted on: April 11th, 2016, 08:24:00
Reply: 386

I've used tin snips with good results on hoses

Posted by: Brian Posted on: April 11th, 2016, 20:21:25
Reply: 387

Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted April 10th, 2016, 17:24:57 at here
L]
I tried to remove the lambda sensor from the old exhaust manifold.  This obviously hasn't been removed since first fitting because all I succeeded in doing is round of the flats - I tried heating it for quite a while before hand too, so short of smashing the cast manifold I'm not sure I'll be able to reuse this:




It is my understanding that the lambda sensors have a fairly finite life span, and easily get fouled by oil and gas and become inaccurate. If it's been on long enough to have welded itself into place, then it's probably done regardless.


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 17th, 2016, 18:48:30
Reply: 388

I got in contact with Specialist Component about the exhaust lambda position.  They sent me a new centre piece with the lambda flange in a better position.
I don't know if they had a known bad batch, but I'm very happy with their help over this - it's a good while since I bought this manifold.  They could've just said no, but I'm glad they didn't and I'll certainly be going back to them in the future for more of their products (who is it on the forum who's fitting the SC 'wet manifold' injection system?).
I'll try and remember to get a photo before getting it all fitted, but I've had to 'thin out' the exhaust wrap where the two parts of the manifold are so close together.  And the joining piece at the bottom of the manifold, I'm going to have to get the 2nd lambda flange ground off and welded up - there isn't enough space in the transmission tunnel.
Other things I've managed to get done this weekend - I've drilled the hole in the bulkhead for the speedo drive.  And I've secure the forward ends of the loom/electric cables being careful not to exceed the 300mm maximum gap between fixings.
The loom and return cable:

The live cable has the windscreen washer pipe secured with it:

I'm hoping the interior carpet can be 'secured' by the door opening trim which means these cable will be nicely covered.
I fitted the coolant pipes to the engine:

I cut the rad upper pipe to length (new blade in the stanley knife and nippers to cut through the wire):

I'm not too happy with the pipe fitting onto the rad though.  The pipe is 28mm, I measure the fiat cinq rad inlet/outlet pipes at 32mm, and there isn't enough give in the silicon pipe.
An dI offered up the bonnet to make sure it fitted - by this I mean the milled thermostat housing looked like it would be a close fit but there must be a good 10mm or so clearance:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 24th, 2016, 16:26:40
Reply: 389

So - here's the new centre branch.  Looks much better:

Next to buy a new lambda.
And the inlet manifold in place:

The engine bay's starting to look more than a little busy.
This weekend I dug out the alternator I got with the engine.  Again, it's all getting a bit tight in there:

Getting at the belt will cause a few grazed knuckles I suspect.  I also need to budget for a new alternator - this one is seized solid.
And finally, I bought a few more bits of silicon hose.  A 180 degree 32mm U-bend to fit to the rad, a 32>28mm reducer for the inlet side.  For the return a 32>28mm reducer and I've just bent the hose around.  A 120 degree curve might be better, but these hoses aren't cheap.  I'll try the steering on full lock when the front end is down and as long as there's no risk of fouling I think it'll be okay:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 2nd, 2016, 17:20:09
Reply: 390

So, cashed in some brownie points and spent some money this past couple of weeks.
A new lambda fitted to the new centre branch:

This new centre branch had a thinner flange than the outer 'Y' so I had to make up a couple of T-pieces to ensure the inlet/exhaust were equally clamped:

With this all tightened up I could fit the new alternator:

I've got an MPi alternator belt but it's just too tight, so I still need to source a longer belt for this.
I've managed to connect up the hard pipe for the brake master cylinder, also the clutch, but I couldn't get the fuel connections onto the fuel pipes:


The charcoal pipe is just a push on, but I'll be damned if I can get these to click into position (as on my MPi).  The idea of using original pipes was to make things simple, but this is just a pain!
I could cut the connection off and plumb straight to the hard pipe, but what kind of clamp would secure this (fuel is approx. 2 Bar pressure I think).
So I moved the car in the garage to enable me to work on the brakes.  I thought I'd offer up the front right damper.  Unfortunately the lower mount bolt isn't long enough (or at least it's not long enough in this application):

What thread/size is this bolt, so I can source a new one?
And I dug out the old solid disc set up so I can swap the flanges:
[URL=http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Cooper1999/media/20160502%20Solid%20disc_zpsewb1mlel.jpg.html]
I also discovered I'm going to need a bespoke throttle cable - the MPi one I have doesn't have enough movement.  The inner needs to be about 3" longer.
So time to stop spending for a while and start fitting the other bits and pieces I have now.

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: May 3rd, 2016, 20:24:32
Reply: 391

Graham,

I don't think the bottom damper bolt is the problem. Your spacer looks correct. The problem is more likely to be the top mount. These pins are under quite a lot of load, lengthening the lever arm could cause problems.

The best replacement is an upgraded pin, http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Suspension/Front/Dry/C-AJJ3361.aspx
But I don't think you really need one.

Jim

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 28th, 2016, 13:12:06
Reply: 392

Jim, I suspect you're right.
I fitted one of these top mounts but not the other.  If this is the one I fitted (I can't remember if it was NSF or OSF) I'll not be too happy - why would I not have offered up the damper? but I'll look to take this off, fill the holes (fibreglass and remount.
Looking at it I am a little concerned that the top mount cannot move too much rearwards due to the piece its mounted to being very short.  I'll try and get a photo showing what I mean.
Progress has slowed recently.  I serviced the mini a few weekends ago and discovered that one of the calliper pistons had seized, so the disc, backing plates and callipers were destined for the mini:

Unfortunately I then wasn't very well so put the mini into the garage to have the callipers swapped only to find out the drivers side calliper, when filled and trying to bleed was porous (garage thinks when these were refurbished whoever was doing it might have been a bit enthusiastic with the shot blaster).  So I've been in contact with the supplier and am arranging for a replacement calliper to get the mini back on the road.
Then it'll be save up and repeat the exercise with the Marcos.
And I guess I'll be fitting the winter tyres for the IVA test:


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 30th, 2016, 16:50:53
Reply: 393

So, Here's the top mount as fitted:

Now with this undone I fitted the damper (lower end tightened up to see where the upper end sat naturally.  There was some fore/aft movement but this is the situation:

With the damper fully extended the red dots denote the mount holes.
With the dampers approx. mid stroke (that is at a similar height of damper mount as the existing position) the holes are in the 'black' position:

This is what I mean about the holes being very close to the edge of the 'inner wing' rear edge.
When I undid the top mount bolts I noticed these metal blocks, which have two holes which appear to match (hole centres) with the mount.
These are on both sides.  From left:

From right:

Front left shows the mount rear bolt fits through the block forward hole (the same situation can be seen in the front right block, bolts removed obviously).
So - are these blocks for the top mount bolts?  Is the 'black dot' too close to the rear edge of the 'inner wing'?
What's on your cars?  What should I do?

ETA - meant to ask, any ideas for the fuel line conundrum?

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: May 30th, 2016, 19:40:16
Reply: 394

How about making a metal plate for the damper bracket to bolt to then bolt the plate through the original holes.
Mike

Posted by: jimnaylor Posted on: June 1st, 2016, 21:03:31
Reply: 395

The damper brackets should bolt to the ends of the bulkhead cross member. That's where the strength is and should have the correct alignment with the subframe & suspension. Just bolting to the fibreglass is unlikely to have the strength and the alignment will be wrong. Your metal blocks in the foto might be correct, they look in about the right place and pick up the cross member. I can't compare to mine as mine are fully glassed in by the previous owner (as is the x member) and the holes are threaded so I need no nuts.

Dependant upon your suspension settings if non standard you may need different length dampers, that's why a range of lengths are available from mini specialists.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 1st, 1970, 00:00:00
Reply: 396

So, this is what I'm thinking.
Make a metal plate as per the cardboard template in the photo:

I'm thinking 2 or 3mm ali plate.
Fit the damper bracket like this:

The right of the photo is the front of the car.  The forward two holes will clamp the plate to the 'inner wing'.  The front two bolts on the damper mount will clamp the bracket to the plate, to the inner wing.
The rear most two bolts (left side in the photo) - upper will locate in the rear most hole in the metal block, the lower will clamp the damper bracket to the metal plate.

I will need to fit washers/spacer behind the left upper bolt (gap between the plate and the inner wing)
The only other things this will result in is:

I'll need to remove the spacer piece and grind back the bump stop pad to clear the damper.  And:

I'll need to make a small spacer to align the top of the damper.

Hope that makes sense.  What do you think - strong/rigid enough?

What this has made me realise iscooper1999

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 17th, 2016, 11:30:53
Reply: 397

Got an hour in the garage last night so put the first (RHF) damper strengthening plate in place:

I used Gr 10.9 zinc coated button head screws in the end as the best option to keep this in place.  The titanium ones I found weren't a bad price but the equivalent of a Gr 8.8.  Coating bolts can make them brittle if not done properly and I think going to 10.9 is a good compromise.  The nuts are black - I've used two per screw as a locking device.
I've also used M6 coated repair washers on the rear where space permitted to spread the load.  I haven't, as you can see, gone over the plate with the fibreglass/carbon fibre that I have.
When offering up the plate, the top left screw area needed to be packed out with M6 repair washers (5 used) due to the profile of the inner wing.  I didn't want to trap moisture in the void and to be honest, wasn't sure how best to achieve this.
I have chamfered the upper arm to clear the damper:

And fitted the brake hose/calliper:

The damper to fit next, followed by greasing up this wheel station then onto the LHF.

One other thing - has anyone fitted the plastic wheel arch liners to their MM?  I've got them fitted to the Mini and with the amount of cables, and proximity of the ECU, I'm thinking of trying to fit these to the MM to keep any water spray to a localised area.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 15th, 2016, 15:18:05
Reply: 398

Hi all.  Been unable to get online for a little while but have been making a little progress.
Shortly after finishing the front damper mounts I was contacted by someone else building a Mk6 who had put their car through IVA, which had thrown up a few failure points.
One of which was the front damper mounts only having a flexible fibreglass fixing (glad I did the plates), so I decided to plate the rear strut top too:

I can't get the 'as fitted' photo to upload but this sits between the top of the strut and the shell.
I've also started fitting out the rear of the interior with sound proofing.  It's not so pretty (I've used all the cut off sections to fill in the gaps) but it'll ultimately be covered by carpeting also (no photos at the minute).
And then the problem that keeps on giving - the fuel pipes.  I disconnected the fuel pipes in the mini and found that the pipes are subtly different.  The 'MPI' pipes I bought off of ebay have a 'flared' end to them, with a flange about an inch down them:

The pipes on the mini have the flange but not the flared end.  So after asking a lot of questions and researching it seems I've been sold SPi pipes (although it might be that very early MPi had these pipes too).  As the pipes weren't working as they were I tried to smooth out the end flare.
The fit was improving but this weakened the pipe leading to:

Now I can't say I'm too disappointed about this - I had my concerns over modifying these pipes and them sealing.  So this has forced the situation, which is where the real problem starts.
To replace these I'll need to perhaps drop the rear of the subframe (as you do for a steering rack change), or at least I would if I could get my hands on a correct set of pipes.
I can't find another set of these for love nor money.  If anyone knows of a set, please do tell!
Otherwise, if I'm to keep with the original MPI inlets, I need to find some pipework which the original flexy pipes:

Ideas welcome.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 27th, 2016, 11:06:28
Reply: 399

Hi All.  Well progress has been slow of late but with a long weekend this past weekend I've been able to make some progress again.
Thanks to the Rover parts bin I've managed to find a solution (I hope) to the fuel line problem.  Ebay provided a Rover 25 fuel line/fuel filter pipe which has the correct push on fit:

I'll cut this pipe a couple of inches long and use braided hose to connect this quick detach piece with the underfloor pipework.
Hopefully I'll be receiving another (MGF) pipe which will sort the return pipe also.
I've also received this through the post:

In steel (not stainless) I've gone for a two box system to try and keep the noise levels down (both for IVA and for the desire to use this car everyday and have it a bit of a GT in use).  I may yet need to change this - I think I'll need to fit a cat in the system, but as with other Maniflow products I've had over the years it looks good and fits easily.

Think I'll be stealing Steve (Schmidt's) solution for an exhaust hanger!
Moving the car back and forward on the drive in order to get the car lined up with the ramps in the garage I noticed its sitting a little higher on the passenger side.  This may settle down,but I'll have a look at adjusting this in the future:


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 27th, 2016, 17:12:17
Reply: 400

So, the exhaust can be fitted so as to exit on the left hand side or the right.
To my eyes, exiting on the left looks to have the exhaust held higher within the tunnel but does this put it too close to the fuel pump?




ETA Meant to ask also - what solution do you have for the lock/latch for the hatch?

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: November 27th, 2016, 17:38:35
Reply: 401

Most people use a panel lock for the hatch.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 3rd, 2016, 17:17:20
Reply: 402

Quoted from mike brown, posted November 27th, 2016, 17:38:35 at here
Most people use a panel lock for the hatch.



Thanks Mike.  I bought a mini lock set, trying to have only one key.  The mini boot lock was different to the lock as fitted (with no key) and when I tried to modify it the case (which I was had drilled/tapped) failed.
Guess I'll need to be a bit more adventurous with a solution.
I have managed to track down a second fuel pipe though!  I've got the week before Christmas off - what's the chances of getting it fired up...
I'll not hold my breath  :P

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: December 3rd, 2016, 19:03:28
Reply: 403

You maybe able to get a panel lock with the same key type and code. Failing that you maybe able to fit the mini lock barrel into a panel lock.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 14th, 2017, 21:06:33
Reply: 404

Happy New Year All.
Just got the computer back from repair and thought I'd give an update.
I had a bit of time off over Christmas and managed to get a bit of time in the garage.  It was my intention to get it fired up and the engine bedded in.  Well - I managed to get it turned over, and oil pressure built up.  But couldn't get it fired up - the fuel pump wasn't (isn't) getting power now.
The pump works (fed direct off the battery) and there seems to be continuity in the cables to the bulkhead but that's where my electrical ability stops.
So I decided to do other things to progress things.
I managed to sort a panel lock for the boot (that'll be a total of four keys for the car then - boot, door, ignition and fuel cap) and decided to swap the door locks for the new ones.  I did the drivers door first - what a pain in the backside that was!
Little did I know that was going to be the easy side.  The passenger side door  lock was surrounded by sealant.  On removing this I found the door lock had a load of washers as spacers:

Turns out this was to place the lock in the correct position for the latch.  But what a pain to get back lined up and set.  I packed both lock barrels with grease.  I'm hoping this will help prevent them from freezing up - a regular winter problem with the mini.
I also did some more work on the interior.  I've made a boot board - this to protect/hide the wiring that runs across the back, hold the speakers, hide the battery and provide somewhere to secure a first aid kit/warning triangle:

This will have a cover piece also:


This piece is a template (funny old thing) - in making this it became patently obvious I don't need the cut out for the battery box.  Therefore the 'real' cover piece will only have a small hole (to be able to lift the cover, and to put my piece of wood hatch stay in place.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 14th, 2017, 21:20:23
Reply: 405

I also received a very nice gear lever and hand brake gaiter - leather with orange stitching:


There is a cut out for the washer bottle in the boot board cover, another for the fuel pipe.  I can't determine the exact size of the fuel pipe cut out yet - this needs to be fibreglassed in/sealed from the interior, for IVA.  I don't want to seal this before having the engine running/fuel system pressurised.
I'm also in the middle of covering the boot board.  I bought some 3mm scrim foam and some faux suede to cover it.
The glue should be set by tomorrow - it doesn't look half bad.
I'll try and put up a photo tomorrow.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 14th, 2017, 21:28:40
Reply: 406

I also made a board for the floor base, this to provide a flat floor:


I'll place a couple of pieces of wood under the base to level it up and support the weight of anything placed on it.  This should also provide a (small, thin) area to put something out of sight.
I'm looking to cover this in carpet.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 15th, 2017, 14:58:05
Reply: 407

Hope everyone's enjoying the long weekend.
The car's been in the garage getting some more electrical work done this past couple of weeks - the fuel pump wouldn't power up, so had that seen to.
Also had the power socket wired in and the wipers fixed (anyone got a Rover YWC 10152 front wiper control unit handy?  Quite expensive as it turns out and need to get my hands on one!).
Anyway, kept myself busy working on the boot box covering:

You can see one of the door cards in the background of this shot.  Both door cards are now done.

I'm quite happy with how these have turned out.  I just hope the spray glue is as good as it says on the tin and doesn't soften up in sunshine.

As previously mentioned, this does look as if it'll make it a bit difficult to load through the hatch, but I've got a diesel estate for practicality  :).
And it does tidy up the rear quite well, while making a space for keeping a warning triangle, first aid kit, yellow jackets etc.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 17th, 2017, 11:39:51
Reply: 408

Question for Steve Schmidt:
Steve, I came across this photo of your dash in the forum:
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Curly/media/Marcos/P1100860_zps50b52da3.jpg.html
Can you tell me how your dash is secured to the bulkhead/dash frame?
I'm looking to use the suede on my dash but the current method of securing this is via self tappers screwed in from above.
This would leave the screws visible - not the end of the world but I'd like to avoid this if possible.
Just wondered how you/others got around this problem.
Thanks,

Posted by: Steve_Schmidt Posted on: April 17th, 2017, 21:14:56
Reply: 409

G'day Graham, I had the same issue as you have in not wanting exposed screws spoiling the look of the dash. The top section of my dash consists of two vinyl-covered fibreglass pieces - the first bit matches the curve at the base of the windscreen and it is self-tappered to a short flange that sticks out from the bulkhead. The screws are right up at the front and angled forwards. You can't see them because the outer panel at the base of the screen covers them. They are very difficult to screw in and I doubt you could do it with the windscreen in place, because the screen rubber would be in the way. The larger section of the dash top is then self-tappered to this first piece from underneath, using very short screws so as not to pierce the padded vinyl lining. The wooden facia is then attached to the upper panel by screwing it on from the back and also supported by 4 rather tricky metal brackets that screw on behind the facia and attach to a metal cross-member running across the front of the cabin level with the bottom of the dashboard. As you can imagine the dash took many, many hours to get right. It would have been a lot easier to form up and mould in a fibreglass one.

You can see additional photos and information on the build here: https://mm7056.wordpress.com/2014/04/26/april-2014/

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 22nd, 2017, 13:05:44
Reply: 410

Thanks Steve.  I'm looking at how to do the dash top this afternoon.
And looking over your write up - I like your idea for a door check strap!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 7th, 2017, 12:33:04
Reply: 411

Dash covered with airvents back in place:

Not quite as curvaceous as Steve's effort, but I'm resonably happy with it:


The nuts needs to be put on and tightened which should draw the ends of the dash down a little.  The wires poking out each end are for the heated screen.

I've also think I've found out why the engine won't catch - lack of fuel!
The fuels leaving the tank (got my arm covered finding that out).
It's making it's way to the pre-pump filter, but not I think through the pump.  This is turning over when the ignition is switched on, but there doesn't seem to be anything getting through the pump (air or fuel).
I'm going to get a suction pump to try and draw the fuel through the pump and then through the fuel supply line (i.e. try and get rid of air in the inlet side) but I'm wondering if the pumps knackered - too much drawing on air?
Oh well - another small step closer.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 14th, 2017, 11:02:30
Reply: 412

It LIVES!  ;D ;D ;D 8)

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: May 14th, 2017, 13:27:29
Reply: 413

Happy days.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 14th, 2017, 20:21:34
Reply: 414

Right, so - after checking fuel was leaving the tank, checking it was making its way through the filter, checking it was making its way through the pump and drawing fuel through the fuel line to the engine compartment there was still nothing.
So, taking the fuel pump was knackered I decided to swap over the +/- leads as a last ditch attempt.
Turning the ignition on -  hmm, sounds a little different. So push the car out the garage and do that again.
Immediately there appears a sign of fuel leaching out the end of the fuel rail.  Quickly nip that up and wipe it down and try that again.
To cut a long story short, it seems that the fuel rail must have a gasket in it which has been dry for so long it wasn't sealing under 3 Bar pressure.  But after a while it appeared to have stopped.
So - in for a penny, in for a pound (and with fire extinguisher at hand) I turned it over.
And what do you know - it IMMEDIATELY caught and ran.  So quickly in fact that I forgot to check the oil pressure (it was fine).  I then remembered to raise the revs to bed the cam in (~1500rpm).
I ran it for about 5 mins before stopping and checking for fuel and coolant leaks before starting it up again and running it for another 10 mins or so.
Unfortunately it started overheating, blowing coolant out of the header tank, so I immediately turned it off.
I had been checking the top hose and only a minute or so before boiling it was warm but not hot.  Checking ti shortly afterwards it was pretty damn hot!
I realised I didn't have the heater 'on' (control pulled out) which I think you are meant to do to fully open the system.  But what could be causing it to overheat?  Does anyone else have cooling problems with the Fiat Cinq radiator?  The fan was working until I cut the engine.
The engine also sounded as if the tappets need adjusting.  I can't remember what I set these to exactly, but do remember it was wider than normal due to having 1:5 roller rockers fitted.
I'll re torque the head down too before running it up again.
But what a step forward  ;D

Posted by: Olly Lewis Posted on: May 15th, 2017, 11:44:18
Reply: 415

I had a little temperature problem to start with and my cooling fan was wired around the wrong way. If it's a suck through fan then it must be wired in a pull configuration and if it's a blow through fan then it must be wired in a push configuration AND fitted in the correct fashoin. The blades are engineered to only work in one direction!

If your fan is coming on at a sensible temperature but it is still getting hot then I would look at that. It's all down to air flow.


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 16th, 2017, 19:08:56
Reply: 416

Olly,

I did think of this (fan going backwards), but only after the event!
It's a little bit annoying that the electrician didn't pick up on the fuel pump but hey-ho  :-/
I'll do some checking this weekend and start it up again (with the heater on) and see if I can sort it.

Still quite pleased that it started/I put the engine together properly  :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 3rd, 2017, 18:05:49
Reply: 417

So, managed to get a couple of hours this afternoon (and the odd hour or two in the evenings this past couple of weeks) and have managed to sort (I think) the slight leak in the cooling system, run the car up for a couple of 10 minute spells (so the cam should be bedded in nicely now) but still have an issue with the fan.
The fan was blowing the wrong way, and still is!  I ran the car up got it up to temp (temp gauge works  :) ) and when the fan kicked in determined it was blowing done through the radiator instead of sucking the air up through it.
I took the fan off and determined the fan can be removed and 'turned over'.  So I did that and fired the car up again.  And guess what - exactly the same thing again!  Hmm...
So what I think needs to happen is to have the fan turning around in the opposite direction.
Will this be as simple as cutting the (two) wires and connecting them back up the opposite way?  Seems too simple, which is why I ask.

While waiting for the car to cool I cracked on with offering up the headlight covers.  I'm looking at two fitting brackets to hold this in place -there's space for a third if I think it needs it.  I need to put some gel coat on the bare holes to protect the fibreglass, but another small step forward:


Just got to add, when the last 10 minutes of running the engine at ~1500rpm was complete I took the opportunity to blip the throttle a few times.  It might be in my head, but it does seem to pick up faster than the mini - that's not surprising really.  This engine is bigger than the mini's (by 12cc) but importantly, has a lighter steel flywheel.
Did make me smile though  ;D

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: June 3rd, 2017, 18:56:08
Reply: 418

Assuming the fan is the same design as mine, the air flow direction can be reversed by changing the wiring over. Give it a go and see what happens...

Posted by: Bent Larsen Posted on: June 4th, 2017, 07:37:54
Reply: 419

If the blades are curved you will get less air if you reverse it

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 10th, 2017, 20:37:44
Reply: 420

Bent, it is the curved blade type but I think thats why you can turn the blades over.
It's designed to be either blow or suck with the air:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/electric-radiator-cooling-fan-10-inch-diameter-rad-fan-10
I've crossed the wires over and it sorted the direction of flow.  I need to get some more radiator fan zip ties and we're good to go with that.  And the engine really does sound sweet when I start it up - it idles beautifully!

Can anyone help with photos of how you've fixed the front panel (in front of the bonnet) to the car?  Also how you've fixed the front of the bonnet (I'm assuming people have it front hinging).

I've put gelcoat on the holes for the light covers - I'll look to sort the fixings next.  I've also started putting some of the interior pieces in place, loosely at the minute.

It really does seem like things are coming together  :)

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: June 11th, 2017, 07:07:07
Reply: 421

I have used these https://www.bighead.co.uk/the-original-bighead/ in the past for the front panel.
I've used both bonnet pins and front hinge for the bonnet. Personally I'd use some sort of pins and have the bonnet removable as it gets in the way when hinged.
Mike

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: June 11th, 2017, 10:02:37
Reply: 422

I use these little fasteners.


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 17th, 2017, 15:42:14
Reply: 423

Neil, I'm not sure they'll pass IVA.
I've fitted the headlight covers using button headed screws.  I'm not even sure if these will be acceptable - I may have to change for countersunk headed screws if these aren't okay:

These aren't a brilliant fit, and I'm not sure if I want to fit a slim rubber surround to these yet.  And I need to re-secure the drivers side brackets (fixing the nuts onto the bracket.
But they fit!

And I made a right hash of trying to fibreglass the filler hose cover this afternoon.  A bloody awkward position to work in, and the hottest day of the year to date resulted in 'blue air'.  Hope the neighbours weren't in their garden!
I'll try again tomorrow (perhaps).
Then onto fitting the interior.

Posted by: Olly Lewis Posted on: June 20th, 2017, 15:28:03
Reply: 424

Graham,

Is this kit more than 10 years old? If so there is an IVA exemption which you maybe eligible for!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 4th, 2017, 18:25:01
Reply: 425

Olly, my car is chassis no. 3, constructed 2006 so is more than 10 years old (just!).
But I thought all unregistered kits would need to pass the current test regime.
Do you have details of this possible loop-hole?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 9th, 2017, 20:17:12
Reply: 426

So this weekend I put the door cards in place = Drivers door:

Passenger door:

I received the carpet set when I bought the car.  Trying to lay these out I don't know if I'm missing some pieces, or I'm being thick, but I can't work out what's meant to go where with these pieces (less the centre piece (gear lever & handbrake) and the foot wells):

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 9th, 2017, 20:23:09
Reply: 427

I tidied up my whiteboard too.  I'm not pretending this is a definitive list, but it can't be too far off:

Things like the tracking I'll need to farm out (some interior bits too if I need a carpet), but I should be able to tick a few items off the list in the next few weeks.
Has anyone got any advise on changing the clutch cylinder?  I had the brakes and the clutch bled when the last electrics were done, the garage did say the clutch cylinder might not be as it should.  The pedal has gone solid now - it could be hydrostatic lock (I'll try and bleed it again), but if needs be I have a pattern part I can try and swap out.  But I've never done this before - is it easy to do?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 10th, 2017, 18:28:54
Reply: 428

Hmm - so Photobucket now wants $399 to host photos.
Any other places on the web you use for this?

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: July 10th, 2017, 20:09:26
Reply: 429

I'm currently in the same boat on this and another forum and know several others who have deleted their photobucket accounts.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 23rd, 2017, 09:31:32
Reply: 430

Okay, so I've got a week off work and am hoping to make some decent progress on the car.
I've started putting the bits of the interior that I have in already.  I've been in contact with someone regarding a carpet, just waiting for a reply.
I've also sent an email to Speedy cables regarding having a throttle cable made up without a response.  Can anyone recommend someone else who could produce this?
I've cut the holes in the bonnet for the aerocatches - I'm working on the forward fixing at the moment.  Still don't have a solution in my head for the forward panel that'll leave no protrusions - perhaps I'll give Rory a call as I can't recall any catches on their demonstrator.
I need to service my big car this week.  The weather doesn't look good for the back end of the week, so I might get that out the way tomorrow meaning I can hide in the garage if it rains, to attempt the clutch cylinder.
And has anyone sorted another photo hosting site that's nice and easy to use?

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: July 23rd, 2017, 14:03:16
Reply: 431

http://www.postimg.org .

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 27th, 2017, 18:33:51
Reply: 432

Thanks Neil.
Managed to get the bonnet fitted:


I glued two brackets to the forward edge of the bonnet, then put a sheet of fibreglass over this when it had dried:


I suspect I'll try and do something similar for the front panel.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 27th, 2017, 18:44:14
Reply: 433

More importantly I tried to sort out the clutch slave cylinder.  I've replaced this with the pattern part I had, and am happy this is bled through, but its still the same as before.
I suspect I may have put this together incorrectly, and am hoping you can help.

In the photo (taken from the RHF wheel arch) the nut on the shaft (at the bottom right) should 'stick out' from the clutch cover - on my mini it's about ~1/2".  On pressing the clutch pedal, the rod (top right) extends, pivoting around and forcing the nut and shaft in, which disengages the clutch.
Now, while I can pull the shaft out (by using the mechanical advantage of the arm) it slowly but surely pulls itself in until the nut is sitting against the clutch cover.
I'm assuming with only one hydraulic line fitted this can't be the problem.  Which leads me to think I've incorrectly assembled the clutch (put a spring in the wrong place?).  Hope I've explained that well enough - any ideas?

Oh, and made some decent progress on the interior too.  After speaking to a couple of people, they've convinced me to have a crack at the interior carpet myself.  Now - just need to find some car interior carpet the same/similar to the panels I already have  :)

Posted by: Pete Crudgington Posted on: July 27th, 2017, 21:57:02
Reply: 434

Graham,

Any chance you could have used a brake master cylinder instead of a clutch one, sounds like if you keep pumping the clutch it keeps moving the actuation rod in ?

You also have a verto clutch cover here, do you have a veto clutch on the engine?

Cheers

Pete

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 28th, 2017, 09:07:40
Reply: 435

Pete, good shout on the master cylinder.  This was already on the car when I bought it (and looks brand new).  Given where I bought the car from I'd hope this would be correct:

This is the one on the mini:

The replacement slave cylinder I fitted is this:
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/GSY118MS.aspx
The genuine item wasn't available when I bought this some time ago.

The engine is from an MPI (96-01) - while I don't know if it's from an early or late car (engine numbers not too clear, there were some differences I think but nothing major to the engine) I believe they are all verto clutches.
The MPI uses a slightly bigger diameter (190mm) clutch plate.  All the replacement parts were purchased for 'MPI' (clutch plate, lightened flywheel etc) normally from Minispares.

Thinking this through, if I were to remove the rod from the slave cylinder, the shaft (with nut in the previous photo) should remain 'out'?  If so the problem would look to originate in the slave cylinder/mastercylinder/hydraulic side, not in the clutch assembly?

Posted by: Pete Crudgington Posted on: July 29th, 2017, 09:02:44
Reply: 436

Graham

Looking at your master cylinder it looks like a clutch one from the position of the filler cap relative to the flange.

The verto clutch assembly has a top hat between the release bearing and the clutch, are you sure this is fitted?

Remove the rod as you say and see if you can move the arm by hand, you should be able to move it to take up the slack but then it will feel nearly solid, also check the the nuts on the shaft that go to the release bearing are not bottoming out on the clutch cover.


Hope this helps

Pete

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 29th, 2017, 10:38:21
Reply: 437

Pete, this top hat - its a bronze coloured type thing:
http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/Clutch/Fittings/AHU1564.aspx
I'm pretty sure it did go back (but as is the way I'm now doubting my (poor at the best of times) memory).

Is it possible do you know to take the clutch cover off with the engine in the car?  In fact, thinking far ahead, is it possible to do a clutch change with the engine/subframe still in?

The nuts on the shaft (one lock nut and the 'inner' nut which would contact the clutch cover, are wound back as far as they can be, the outer nut flush with the end of the shaft.

I realise I've only got another 23 years to get the car finished and on the road (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-40726868)
Better pull my finger out!

Thanks,

Posted by: Pete Crudgington Posted on: July 29th, 2017, 11:11:56
Reply: 438

Graham

Should be able to remove cover with engine in car, its not that easy and a couple of the bolts on the clutch cover are very hard to get to.  Its not to bad on my car but I have no inner wings and the front comes off!

Need to put jack under the engine as one of the engine mounts is on the clutch cover.

Take the rod out first as above to check movement there etc.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 29th, 2017, 14:39:08
Reply: 439

Thanks Pete.  I'll give it a go.

Quick general update on other progress.
I discovered one of my small pack straps was black with an (dirty) orange stripe which I decided to use for a couple of door straps:

I've fitted the bits of carpet I have to the front of the car.  I had to make up a couple of small infill panels to tidy up the area just in front of the door opening.  This has been covered with the foam/faux suede which I had left over:

I cut the carpet piece I had for the rear to fit the boot board:

I've got another piece of carpet ordered from ebay to cover the wheel arches and the area immediately behind the seats.
Unfortunately I can't put the seats in at this time as I need two seat belt bolts (7/16") for the upper seat belt mount.  And I need two longer metric fine thread bolts for the bracket for the seat belt stalk (transmission tunnel).
I'm told for the rear side panels I need something called 'millboard' or 'trimboard'.  I've found a couple of places on the internet which sells this (postage may be a problem due to the size of sheets), but I think I need to try and get some cardboard templates made up first.
Finally a photo of my #to do' board:

Not all encompassing - I tidy this up regularly, but gives a good idea that a lot of whats left is smaller items:
To fit the windscreen/windows I need the rubber surround and in fill (sorry for disturbing your holiday Andy, when trying to get this through the club) and then get a screen fitter in.  (I don't fancy cracking the heated screen trying to fit it after it's been stood at the foot of the bed for the past... 5 years?)
Has anyone got a digital radio fitted to their car?  I hear reception in kit cars can be a bit hit/miss.  Oh and a digital aerial fits to the windscreen, so no rush for this until its fitted then!
The centre console can wait too.  But what solution do people have for covering/lining the companion boxes in their cars?  I find these useful in the mini for putting things in to stop them slipping across the rear seat, but want something more than the unlined box as is.  Any inspiration?
So really the clutch and the front panel are the only big-ish items left, other than then doing a front to rear check of the car.
And I've got another week off in August.  All I need now is that lottery win to help push this over the line  :).

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 30th, 2017, 09:40:49
Reply: 440

So with the slave cylinder removed the shaft is free to move in/out:


Now should this (with the cylinder out of the system) be pushed 'out' firmly, so that on pushing the clutch pedal the shaft is forced in to disengage?
As it is, the weight of the actuating arm & pin is enough to move the arm ever so slightly, the shaft is so free to move.
If so this would definitely  suggest incorrect assembly   :-/

Posted by: Pete Crudgington Posted on: July 30th, 2017, 18:10:06
Reply: 441

Graham

Before stripping it down more, wind the nuts back off so the actuation shaft can go in further, you should be able to feel the release bearing hit the clutch if everything in there is correct.  It does however look like something may be not correct, either top hat or release bearing not fitted correctly.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 5th, 2017, 16:33:19
Reply: 442

Hmm, a bit tight you say?  Never mind - I got a few extra microns of space by knocking over the jar with the clutch fluid in it, stripping the paint from the subframe as I tried to mop it up!  >:(
So while I'm not convinced the photos are clear enough for opinions, here's what I found.
The top hat was in place:

There was evidence of fresh marks on this too:

The release bearing is attached to the end of the shaft:

Now as I push the shaft (with the two nuts on) in and out, the release bearing moves in/out on the end of the shaft.  It does wobble a bit, but is secure on the shaft.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 5th, 2017, 16:41:42
Reply: 443

Another annoyance, there's just not quite enough space to take the clutch cover off.  But with a bit of juggling with the light, this is the clutch plate/end of crank:

Now does this look 'right'?  Should there be something spacing this further out - by this I mean, something to press against the release bearing and take up the slack (hope that makes sense)?

I'm hoping beyond hope there's something obviously wrong which someone can spot because it really is going to be an engine out job (more accurately 'body up' of course).

Here's hoping...

Posted by: Pete Crudgington Posted on: August 6th, 2017, 18:29:42
Reply: 444

Graham

Looks like the release bearing is fitted backwards.  The inner race of the bearing should push against the top hat, how you have it the bearing is facing the wrong way.

Cheers Pete

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 7th, 2017, 17:57:13
Reply: 445

Pete, now turned around:

Before I put this back together, could this alone cause the problems I had with the solid pedal?
Thanks again.

Posted by: Pete Crudgington Posted on: August 7th, 2017, 19:25:26
Reply: 446

Graham

Yep thats the right way round, this should cure the problems you had with the clutch, see how much further it sticks out past the end of the shaft now.

Cheers Pete

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 14th, 2017, 18:57:31
Reply: 447

IT WORKS!!!
For the first time in 7 years of owernership I've driven my car!

Driven might be a bit far fetched - reversed it at idle out of the garage and back in, and felt it drag in 2nd, 3rd & 4th.  But it WORKS!

Big smile  ;D
And big Thanks to Pete (and all the others who've answered my questions over the years).

The end might just really be in sight  ;D ;D ;D

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: August 15th, 2017, 08:23:09
Reply: 448

Wohooooooo

Posted by: admin Posted on: August 16th, 2017, 09:35:09
Reply: 449

Well done Graham! Another milestone reached.

Posted by: Pete Crudgington Posted on: August 17th, 2017, 07:53:47
Reply: 450

Graham

Glad that I could help and that its now sorted.

Keep working down the list, looks like you are on the home straight now!

Keep up the good work.

Cheers

Pete

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 20th, 2017, 19:04:39
Reply: 451

I've enjoyed quite a productive day today - first job was to swap the throttle body over witht he one from the mini.
The mini was fitted with a 52mm Burlen aluminium TB.  Standard fit is a plastic 48mm unit, which can distort and split.  When i fitted the BV head to the mini and had it on the rolling road the extra diameter made no difference to the available power.  I'm hoping the extra 12cc of the Marcos will make all the difference  ;).

I also refitted the K&N to the mini so I could put the air filter box onto the MM:

Unfortunately this doesn't fit under the bonnet either:

So I'll have to look for another filter/solution.  This is a shame as the box cuts out quite a bit of induction roar (which is why I'd put it back on the mini - my daily commute is ~55 miles each way).

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 20th, 2017, 19:09:23
Reply: 452

After this I moved on to the interior.  Unfortunately I don't have access to old MFO cardboard boxes anymore, so had to work with the cardboard I had cut and stuck together to make a template for the rear side panels:


I had thought I'd use 'trim board' for these panels, but looking at the piece of automotive carpet I had left over decided to see how this would work.  It's rubber backed and has an amount of built in rigidity:

As it is, it worked quite well:

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 20th, 2017, 19:16:33
Reply: 453


Amazingly the template only needed a little bit of modifying to fit the passenger side (I'm used now to this car not being 'square' side to side):

This left me with a rather strange shaped carpet left over:

There's a few gaps in the carpet coverage so I might see if I can do something with this to address this.  This rather large piece of carpet only cost me £9 from ebay!
Oh - and I got the front panel fitted on Friday night:

I'm not exactly happy with the fit, despite measuring this many times.  But looking at photos in the gallery this isn't unusual (even the Heritage brochure car has an element of this panel protruding), and the more I look at it the more I get used to it.
So only the wheel arches to address now on the interior (you might see in the photos I've covered the companion bins in foam/suede) and to secure the carpet side panels in place (I'm going to try double sided velcro).
ETA - even without a throttle cable (I sent this away on Monday to be modified) the idle's strong enough to reverse the car up my slightly inclined drive.  Broom broom... no more hiffing and puffing for me!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 24th, 2017, 17:31:28
Reply: 454

I've got this week off work so have managed to get on with the car again.  I put the car in the garage to have the lights set and the tracking adjusted.  Another opportunity for photos:


I'm slowly running out of things I can do.  I've put the interior together:


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 24th, 2017, 17:40:57
Reply: 455


Andy/Roger is going to send the windscreen and window rubbers over shortly and I'll look to get these items fitted.
While the car was in the garage I received the throttle cable.  This gave the opportunity to try it out above idle - I obviously need to get it on the road to test it properly, but in the confines of the drive way it feels nippy.  It also showed the speedo wasn't working - looking more closely at this, the drive wasn't correctly clipped in.  I haven't as yet been able to get this to engage.
I also took the opportunity to download the latest IVA information.  I'm going to have to get the daylight running lights rewired (to turn off when the headlights are turned on - strange, as 'production' cars don't do this!), and I think I need to try and rig something on to the lower dash rail to give a radius to this.
And I think I'll need to budget around another £1000 to get the car on the road (IVA test and retest, Registration, MoT, Road Tax etc.)
I'll have plenty of time to check the car over from front to back while I save up for this then  :-/

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 27th, 2017, 12:06:22
Reply: 456

Well I hope everyone's enjoying a dry Bank Holiday weekend!  I've taken the opportunity to look more closely at the speedo problem.
With the car on the ramps I was able to undo the gearbox end of the cable and confirm the inner is in one piece and when twisted turns at both ends.  Connecting this correctly to the speedo head end and twisting the gearbox end inner gets the needle flickering, suggesting the gauge is working.
But putting the gearbox end back together and running the car forward there's nothing happening.
I suspect the inner square drive needs to be a bit longer (another job for Speedy cables?) or possibly the bevel drive in the gearbox housing isn't working.
Is there a way to test the bevel gears in the g/box with the engine/subframe in situ?
I remember putting the 2.7FD bevel gears in this when I rebuilt the box - perhaps I haven't put them together correctly.  I also seem to remember thinking if these ever broke there'd be no way of repairing this without taking the engine out - is that right?  :-/
(Two steps forward...)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: August 27th, 2017, 16:35:57
Reply: 457

So, investigations show:
Cable inner appears intact (turning manually at g/box end rotates gauge end).
Fully fitting onto the gauge and manually turning cable inner moves gauge needle.
Refitting the cable to the g/box and the inner doesn't appear to be turning (finger over end of cable inner while moving forward).  The cable appears to have 'disengaged' from the gauge end slightly too.

Looking at my mini, the MPi appears to have a two piece speedo cable (I  recall this from rebuilding the mini engine also):

This two piece speedo cable assembly doesn't appear in my Mini Spares parts catalogue (which does show many single piece speedo cable, up to 68" in length).

So I'm wondering if the 2.7 FD bevel wheel gear is somehow different (don't recall any obvious differences when working on the gearbox) and when securing the gearbox end it pulls the cable off the back of the clock.  But that wouldn't explain why I can't feel the cable turning at the speedo end, unless the inner is to short at both ends?

Hmm...  I'll pull out the spare g/box I've got and look to strip down the speedo drive to refresh my memory on how this looks/works.

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: August 28th, 2017, 08:22:29
Reply: 458

If you are on FB, try messaging John Guess from Guessworks, he's very helpful in giving advice about anything A-Series gearbox related.

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: September 13th, 2017, 14:34:19
Reply: 459

Quoted from Graham Bichard, posted July 4th, 2017, 18:25:01 at here
Olly, my car is chassis no. 3, constructed 2006 so is more than 10 years old (just!).
But I thought all unregistered kits would need to pass the current test regime.
Do you have details of this possible loop-hole?



Hi Graham,

Here is what I believe Olly was referring to.  

https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-approval/exemptions-from-vehicle-approval

From that link:

You don't need vehicle approval for:

cars and minibuses with 8 passenger seats or less (not including the driver) over 10 years old

Posted by: Richard Porter Posted on: September 22nd, 2017, 18:59:16
Reply: 460

I suspect that the exemption applies to vehicles that have been on the road in the past and need approval for some other reason. Your car would probably be regarded as new even though you bought the parts over ten years ago. But good luck if you try it!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 30th, 2017, 12:39:47
Reply: 461

Sorry for the delay in replying - been away with work.
Before going away I played around with measuring the speedo cable.  I suspect the relationship between the speedo head and the bulkhead, and the bulkhead and the subframe position isn't the same as the mini.  I think the subframe/bulkhead relationship is the same  but the bulkhead to interior might be a little different.  This would explain why the throttle and the speedo cable have both required a longer inner wire.
I've fitted the speedo back onto the gearbox and now need to see if my theory/measurements are correct and fit the other end to the speedo head (but its raining).  I'll let you know if it works.

I agree - I'm sure I need an IVA Richard.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 30th, 2017, 14:08:13
Reply: 462

Recorded my first 0.05 miles, and the speedo appears to work (up to 10mph anyway).
Another job crossed off the list.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 19th, 2017, 10:57:29
Reply: 463

Well, while money is saved for the next expensive bit I've tried to continue moving forward with the cheap (free!) bits.
Delving through the shed I managed to engineer a lower dash rail 'pad' (hopefully it can be seen in the next photo).  But I also dug out some thin plywood to start making a centre console:

While not screwed together yet, it hopefully gives an idea of what it'll look like:

It does make the pedal box tight for the clutch (once it's screwed together I'll see if I can make it a bit less deep on the sides).  I'm looking to cover this in the suede but I'll need to buy some more (so no rush then).
Does anyone else have one of these in their car?

Posted by: John_Campbell Posted on: November 20th, 2017, 09:33:00
Reply: 464

Hi Graham, I found the lack of storage similar on my Jem and made a little inverted 'U' shaped box with hinged lid to fit over the central tunnel behind the handbrake lever. It was great for storage and arm rest and I didn't fasten it in so it allowed it to be moved back or removed easily. I also made a couple of trays for the 'boot' to stop stuff rattling around. Car looks great.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 3rd, 2017, 17:04:42
Reply: 465

John, I like the idea of an armrest type cubby but think this would need to be fastened down (or removed) for IVA.  I'll see if I need more storage space than this, but do like the idea.
I covered the console using the various remnants of material I have.  Yet again this is far from perfect but a reasonable finish non the less.
I've put the last side on (without the suede) to see if the cut out on the rear face gives sufficient pedal box clearance (I'm pleased to say it does!):

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 27th, 2017, 20:53:54
Reply: 466

Well I hope everyone enjoyed a relaxing Christmas.  I've taken the opportunity to do a little more interior work on the car.
I bought another two metres of fabric - more than enough for what I needed, so giving me a bit spare left over (I've discovered a new supplier, much cheaper than the last which meant this cost only a little more than a single metre previously).  I covered the remaining piece for the console and also made a panel to go above the passenger footwell.  This gave me somewhere to locate the interior light but mainly I'm hoping this will create an additional barrier to dampen noise levels:



Given that I had some material spare I decided to cover the steering column cover as it doesn't fit correct;y when on the Marcos - the angle of the steering column and the space between it and the dash is obviously different.  This means there is a gap between the upper and lower halves - by having an overlap of material, and using velcro to join the two pieces I've managed to hide this gap:

It looks quite good even if you can't really see it with the wheel back on.

I've had a quote for putting in the windscreen and the two side windows - £150.  This is a bit more than I thought it would be.  But given that I've had the windscreen sitting at the foot of the bed for the [ast five years or so, I don't fancy trying to put this in myself!
Hope you all have a good New Year!

Posted by: Lee Pashley Posted on: December 27th, 2017, 23:24:26
Reply: 467

Are airbag permitted for IVA ? ( IVA manual ,section 14 ,protective steering ,part 5 )

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: December 28th, 2017, 14:51:41
Reply: 468

Hi Lee.
Good to see you're still dropping in on here - trust you're keeping well?
Yes, I think you're correct - airbags aren't permitted.  But the wheel I have is from an MGF/TF which comes with an airbag.  But it's not connected.
I suppose I should ask the DVLA if this centre piece to the steering wheel is permitted, or else I'll have to come up with a new centre boss solution.
I would like a wooden Motolita type wheel, but the rules on exposed spokes is a bit confusing (plus I already have the MG wheel).
The other thing I'm concerned about (for IVA) is the position and routing of the fuel supply out of the tank.  I've mentioned this before - again I could ask the DVLA for their thoughts but as it is I'm not too sure what the alternative is.

This afternoon I've turned the car around in the garage and reversed it up on the ramps - I've got some sheets of carbon fibre from an old college project.  I've got half an idea to create some flat panels to attach on to the bottom of the rear subframe.  This should help with creating a smoother airflow under the car (a diffuser! Who am I trying to kid  ;D) but more importantly should help to prevent spray/water splashing on the the fuel pump (I hope).

Posted by: Richard Porter Posted on: January 1st, 2018, 18:41:10
Reply: 469

I don't understand why the steering column switch covers don't fit properly. You do need to drop the column a bit lower than it would be on a Mini which means you have to make up some brackets or use an adjuster. The alternative is to cut a bit out of the top bit to fit around the dashboard.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 6th, 2018, 17:40:54
Reply: 470

Hi Richard.
With regards to the column cowl, the MPi mini (and perhaps the SPi) has a larger cowl than I remember on my old (1991) Mayfair.  This I think to accommodate the later switch gear.
I did manufacture a bracket to locate the steering column and seem to remember rotating the rack as far as was practical to try and fit the cowl in place.
I also cut a square out of the top of the upper piece to try and gain a bit more (I achieved about 1/4").  It's not too obvious in the photo with the covering on but I can just make out the shape of the cutout.  But to get any more clearance with a cut out I would've needed to cut into the sides of the upper piece and I thought this might end up weakening it too much.
So as long as there's no really annoying squeaking when driving I think this should work quite well as a solution.  And I quite like the fabric covering as opposed to plastic - even if it had fit as per in my Mini I think I might have done this.

Hopefully 2018 will be the year I can get the car on the road and I might be able to show you this by way of an explanation.  Here's hoping  ;D.

ETA - I received a response from DVLA regarding an airbag.  So long as I can prove its not connected there shouldn't be a problem with the wheel - I'll take it off and show that the wire isn't connected (as per the photo above).  I'll also re-locate the other end of this yellow wire and show that the 'SRS' harness isn't fitted.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 14th, 2018, 16:47:10
Reply: 471

Okay - don't laugh, but here's my first attempts at creating a carbon fibre panel.
I used mould release wax on the old piece of kitchen worktop to make the panel on.  If I'd thought it through a bit more before starting I'd have made a rectangle panel but anyway, following Mr Dickens book I put a layer of gel coat down first.  Once dry I used two layers of twill carbon fibre sandwiching a plain weave sheet.
I needed to create a cardboard 'box' and it still took a good few hours to dry.
Anyway - photo's:
Trying to keep the heat in (cardboard box collapsed a little when I took the photo!):

Panel ready to lift (I'm pleased to say it lifted easily):

Gel coat side up, marked out ready for cutting:

Non-gel coat side.  I'll need to coat this and the cut edges with gel coat to protect it from the elements:

I think I might have made the gel coat layer too thick, but at least it's well coated!  There is a few little air bubbles but it seems not a bad first attempt.  If I was hoping for a better surface finish would it work if I put the resin layer directly on to the mould wax and put a layer of gel coat on the finished/cut panel?  I'm thinking this as the 'non gel coat layer' looks to be much nicer.
Perhaps I can try this on the other panel I'm looking to make:

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: January 14th, 2018, 21:12:06
Reply: 472

Hi Graham,

You can remove the airbag from the centre of the wheel.  I drilled out the rivets and popped it out of the last MG wheel that I had (exactly the same setup as yours).   I would not feel comfortable driving around with a disconnected airbag that could go off due to a build up of static (Mrs Smite hs Merc has just been recalled due to the chance of the airbag being triggered in such a way due to insufficient earthing).  

Really easy job to do.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: February 3rd, 2018, 15:28:01
Reply: 473

Craig - I'll have another look at taking the airbag out.  Did doing this weaken the centre pad?  I suppose you could fill it with expanding foam to fill the void.
I've had the windscreen fitted:

The windscreen fitter(s) struggled with this, the hole not quite being the same shape as the screen!  But eventually got a fit that they were happy to accept (they weren't quite totally happy with the top left corner as you look at it but were happy that it was fitted as well as it could be and wouldn't pop out).
The side windows however were another matter.  The rubber is as supplied by the club, but they just couldn't get the LH side window in the rubber.  They tried each of the windows, different ends of the rubber but just couldn't get it in place.
They did try the RH window, again struggling.  It was 'almost' in place but they weren't happy with the fitment and there's no way you'd be able to fit the filler:

You can see the window is 'out of line'.  I asked that this was left in - I might try and get a heat gun/hair dryer on it to see if I can soften the rubber and push it into position.
They did say if I could get some more of the windscreen rubber they think that might be the answer - while the rubber is bigger overall, its more flexible.  (What I need is a soft '1/4 - 1/4' apparently.  This referring to the size of the channel which a) fits the bodywork and b) receives the glass).
While they were here I had the silver filler replaced on the rear window:


Not 15 mins after they left (after about three hours) I found another strip of rubber which I think might have come with the car way back when.  This looks to have the same cross profile as the club supplied rubber but feels softer.  Before I buy another three metres of windscreen rubber I might have a go myself at fitting the LH window - see how I get on.

On another note I got a reply from the IVA people regarding my fuel pipe routing.  Answer was this looks like it will fail but it's up to the discretion of the tester.  :-/
The more I look at it though the less happy I am with the position of the pipe - in the event of a rear end shunt there looks to be a very real possibility of the seam of the tank slicing through the pipe, even though it's braided.  The question is - do I re-route it before putting it in for test and risk the new routing failing, or put it in and discuss the possible alternatives with the tester?  (Annoyingly you can't visit/discuss with the testers directly)

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: February 3rd, 2018, 17:25:09
Reply: 474

Can you shield the hose in some way with an Ali plate. On the subject of IVA when I put the ibex in I'm expecting it to fail then I will have a list to work to for the re-test if by some miracle it passes first time then thats a bonus.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 17th, 2018, 16:13:19
Reply: 475

Mike, sorry for the delayed response.  Been properly wiped out by the flu recently!
I think I'll end up doing the same - put the car in for IVA, see what it fails on and fix the faults found.  I'm just trying to maximise my chances/minimise the rework I need to do.
My concern with the fuel line position relates to if the car was in an accident on the rear/left hand rear corner.
If the car was hit from the rear, with the fuel line going between the fuel tank and a seam on the rear subframe, I think there's a risk of the line being severed.  I'm not sure why I thought this was a good solution (other than packaging).
If the car suffered a left hand rear impact I'm concerned the position of the fuel line, it might be thought the fuel line could be pulled off the connection (by being exposed).
Not being able to discuss this with a tester means it may/may not be acceptable.
We'll see.

On another note - I received the bigger 'windscreen' rubber through the post this morning from Andy/Roger.  Big thanks to them for supplying this shorter amount (3m) for the two side windows.  I'll have to arrange for the window fitter to come back and we'll have another go at fitting these.

Theoretically, with the windows fitted and a solution for the wipers the car could go in for the test....

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: March 24th, 2018, 16:59:51
Reply: 476

Well, we got there in the end:

And today I've tried to find a solution to the wipers.  I would like to try and have a 'modern' look for these (while having a solution that works as well as possible of course).  I started with an 11" mini blade on a standard mini wiper arm.  This allowed me to determine the swept area and work out the length either side of the attachment point that I required (for the blade).  After finding out two figures I went hunting for a wiper.  The first one I tried was a modern 'aero blade' type wiper:

This I cut down one one end:


These blades have a couple of (spring?) steel inserts running along the sides of the rubber, to give them the bend I suppose, onto the screen.  While the sweep was quite good I noticed that the blade wasn't in contact apart from at each end of the blades.  I think by cutting the spring steel it moved the point of the centre of the bend, having the effect of lifting the new centre point off the screen.  Not sure if this photo comes across well, but is attempting to show the sweep:

This first blade started off as a 19" length and worked quite well for the top of the screen.
Next I looked at a more conventional blade.  This was 18" to start with but when I tried to cut this, the construction of this didn't allow for my mods (the blade can't be cut down effectively):

So what I need to find is an offset wiper of the aero blade form which already has an offset centre.  There are some blades like this apparently (possibly for rear windows), so I guess I'll have to walk around Halfords with my 'Mk 1' wiper until I find something suitable (or suitable to modify).

We're slowly getting there.....

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 22nd, 2018, 18:53:26
Reply: 477

So I'm after a bit of help.  I'm filling out the IVA Form 1C (application for IVA test).  Para. 4w asks for ORIGINAL design laden weights.  This para. suggests referring to the weights on the chassis plate (none stamped http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/minimarcos/mkvi3/index.html ), referring to the original handbook or contacting the manufacturer.
Speaking to Rory, he provided me with recorded weights for their demo car.  However this is recorded weights, not maximum laden weight.
My MPI Owners handbook only has a maximum rear axle weight in the technical data (510kg).  If I use this figure (which would seem to be correct) what would the figure be for the front axle?
Any ideas?

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: April 23rd, 2018, 17:47:32
Reply: 478

I've used land rover weights for my ibex (land rover based) as these will be the suspension max weights and more than enough for gvw. If I were you I'd use mini weights.
I've just applied for the IVA for my ibex as well.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 29th, 2018, 17:19:18
Reply: 479

So here's my wiper solution:

Hopefully you can see how much I've had to cut one side down.  However this now clears a large section of the screen.  Modifying these involved gently straightening out the flat spring steel spine of these aero-type blades, but they give a nice modern look as well as working well.
The blade does still overlap the edge of the screen - I could as has been suggested in another thread look to fit a different gear to the wiper motor but this solution wipe so much more of the screen I hope this is acceptable to the IVA tester.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 29th, 2018, 17:34:53
Reply: 480

I've also wired up the front heated windscreen, fitted the throttle pedal return spring, bought and fitted the interior rear view mirror (which doesn't show a lot with the seat 'wings') and ordered an air filter sock to fit over the throttle body (can't find a low enough proper filter).
I decided the underfloor panel wasn't stiff enough so had a go at stiffening it using cardboard:

I cut the layer of carbon square first then to shape - the offcuts fit nicely between the cardboard too, so the are four main layers now with some areas five of six thick:

Marked up for cutting:

And cut out:



Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 29th, 2018, 17:44:35
Reply: 481

This panel is now pretty stiff - not as light as I thought it would be mind (I think I've used too much resin to ensure it was soaked through, as well as using many layers of fibre).
Once cut out and holes drilled I coated the uncovered side, edges and holes with gelcoat to give it some protection.  This gave the shiny finish I was expecting on the lower surface.  In future perhaps I should make these 'back to front' so this side is on display (not that I'll be displaying my efforts!):

So, I don't think I'll be troubling McLaren with making carbon supercars, but I quite enjoyed making this panel.  I might look at trying to make one for the other side of the silencer (the idea of this panel was to help protect the fuel pump from dirt and crud).  Don't know if this photo works but this is it in position:



Mike - I've found out a figure for the MPI mini front axle (580kgs) so as you advise, will use this.  Good luck with your IVA - it'd be interesting to hear what areas they payed particular attention to.

So only paperwork to complete and send off and then wait for a date....
:)

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: April 30th, 2018, 17:30:00
Reply: 482

I've booked mine for the end of May (the earliest they had for my local test centre). I've just insured it so I can drive it to the mot on Monday and the IVA. I've gone for an mot first as I can't find any reason why you can't do it first. You need one for registration if you have used second hand parts as far as I can tell. Most importantly I can get the emissions, brakes and headlights checked/set before the iva and someone else can spot things you have missed.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 14th, 2018, 16:22:41
Reply: 483

IVA application submitted!
;D

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: May 17th, 2018, 16:36:32
Reply: 484

Good luck with your IVA's gents.

@Mike, Presumably you have insured your car using the VIN - did you have any issues doing that?

I'm in a similar position.  I need to obtain an MOT for registration (no IVA though thank goodness) and would prefer to drive my car to the test centre rather than trailer it.  How does that stand with regards to driving on the roads without a registration number?

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: May 17th, 2018, 18:33:10
Reply: 485

You can drive to and from a pre booked mot or IVA provided you insure the vehicle but after you can't drive it till it's fully road legal. I insured with Adrian flux using the chassis number but I technically have 60 days to provide them with a registration number. But obviously I need to pass the IVA and register it to do so.
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 9th, 2018, 12:52:50
Reply: 486

So just when I'd got my hopes up, I'd sorted my road going insurance and go in the garage to start the final checks and....  The engine won't run properly.
I did suspect the fuel pump as it does make a strange whining when running (which was also a suggestion on turbominis wher I'd asked some questions - there are a number of people modding SPi/MPi cars on there) but then it always has.  But the car has run cleanly in the past.  In addition the plugs are showing signs of running rich/over fuelling - don't know if that would be the case if the pump was delivering too little fuel?

And all the clutch components are MPi (I did put the release bearing in incorrectly mind, but sorted that) as I know there were differences between SPi & MPi components which can cause problems.

I took the car around to my local garage on Wednesday evening for them to diagnose.  The garage plugged in their Bosch box of tricks (MPi loom is fitted with an OBD2 connector).  There were four fault codes showing - three related to the temperature sensor, one read inlet manifold pressure.  After clearing these and starting the car again only the temperature sensor fault reoccurred.  So that was changed out.  They also diagnosed a possible air lock in the cooling system (probably caused by me situating the header tank slightly lower than in a mini due to the lower bonnet line on the MM).  So this morning I raised the header tank, removed the return line from the thermostat housing to the header tank and let gravity take its course, reconnecting the return line when coolant ran out of the thermostat housing.  Hopefully this has removed any air from the system, but the garage did say the thermostat itself may have overheated and now be U/S.  I do have one in the shed - should I swap this out anyway?
Having done that this morning the car still isn't running much better - it wouldn't run above 2000rpm when cold/cool before bogging down.  (It sounds for all the world like my old escort on twin 45's - when you opened the throttle too quickly at too low revs it gives too much fuel and it splutters and coughs and bogs down)
When it had a little bit of heat in it, it did get to 2500-3000rpm once before stuttering.  On releasing the throttle the idle was barely able to keep it ticking over.  I checked all leads had sparks (again) and pulled one plug (again, photo above) and now the car won't start at all.

So symptoms are - it looks to be running very rich, runs smoothly enough on first starting but won't rev out, when warm it still won't rev out and when you close the throttle the idle becomes very poor.

Any suggestions/things to check welcome.

P.S. I phoned up on Friday and postponed my IVA (Friday being the last day I could do this without incurring penalties) until 18 July.
Also - does anyone know of a cheap OBD2 reader that would allow me to read the fault codes on an MPi?  I know from looking reviously the MEMS can be difficult to access (Sykes Pickavant I think did a system but its very expensive when they come up on ebay with the Rover module).
Oh, and on arriving at the garage (the longest I've ever driven it - about a mile, with my wife following in her car) I noticed the passenger door lower hinge is fractured.  I'm pretty sure that's just happened (and is I think an IVA failure point).
:(

Posted by: Olly Lewis Posted on: June 11th, 2018, 13:17:58
Reply: 487

Hello Graham,

Sounds like an air leak to me and Lambda overcompensating! Considering there was a fault on plenum pressure too!!

Might be worth firing it up and spraying loads of brake cleaner around the plenum!

It's worth a look.

Cheers

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 17th, 2018, 11:59:47
Reply: 488

Olly, that's exactly what I did following advice from Lance (at Green & Whites in County Durham), except I used Carburettor cleaner.
This is indeed the problem - I'm waiting for a new inlet gasket to be sent from Mini Spares.

On another point - anybody got tips on swapping over a door hinge?  One of mine has cracked across the hinge.  I've got a replacement hinge but am wondering why this one has cracked (misaligned putting too much stress through it?  Suspension too stiff? Etc.)
Also my hinges don't seem to have the gasket under neath them.  When I replace this one should I fit these (which might give a bit of cushioning themselves) or not?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 24th, 2018, 19:03:59
Reply: 489

So, I've tried to sort the car this weekend - problem looks to be different thicknesses on the flanges of the exhaust and inlet manifolds.
New MPi gasket, ali and steel packing pieces made from what I have lying around (different thicknesses), 'old' style gasket made into packers (thought this might squash up). All I've succeeded in doing was raising the revs at which it dies. At least this seems to prove what the problem is.
Tomorrow I'm going to call Green & White and see if they can pick the car up and sort it (they've had to machine the manifolds before to get a good seal). If they can I'll ask them to give it a once over while they're at it too.

And to top it off I went out in the sun on the motorbike today and ended up getting a rear puncture! And I've only done about 150 miles on these tyres  :(

Posted by: Bent Larsen Posted on: June 25th, 2018, 07:38:28
Reply: 490

Graham
You know, of course, that the hinges are different and the only problem may be that they have been mounted incorrectly.
The doors on a mini are heavier and I've never seen the hinges on the mines broken

Bent

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 1st, 2018, 16:56:41
Reply: 491

Bent, I didn't know the hinges were different but soon found out!
I did think the hinge might have been misaligned but when I swapped them over (after taping up the door, drawing on alignment marks and the like) I found there was a little wiggle room on the bolt holes so would like to think the original fitter loosely mounted these (as I did) before checking and tightening up.

I've removed the inlet and exhaust manifold yesterday.  The outer flanges of the exhaust are ~8.4mm thick.  The centre branch flange is 9.7mm thick.  The inlet manifold is 8.3mm.
I've linished down the inlet on emery paper so is as smooth/parallel as I can get it.  I'm going to try and get the outer flanges machined down (probably by grinding) but could have problems in getting these done so that they're parallel with each other.

On another note - I stripped down the inlet before smoothing it down and discovered one of the sensors had a covering of soot.  I'm not sure how this has occurred on the inlet side:
<a href="https://postimg.cc/image/e39vbsman/" target="_blank">DSC_0004[1]</a>
I'm not sure which sensor this is but once I get the manifolds back on I think I'll need to swap this over with the mini's unit and see if it cures the problem.  :-/

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: July 1st, 2018, 17:35:36
Reply: 492

That is the idle control valve mate.

Posted by: Bent Larsen Posted on: July 2nd, 2018, 06:31:28
Reply: 493

Graham
Look and learn:

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Body/Doors/Fixings_Hinges/14A6818K.aspx?030402&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Body/Doors/Fixings~Hinges.aspx|Back%20to%20shop

:)

Posted by: Piffer94 Posted on: July 3rd, 2018, 11:39:24
Reply: 494

This is an explanation
https://www.minimania.com/Mini_External_Door_Hinges


Posted by: Bent Larsen Posted on: July 3rd, 2018, 17:13:24
Reply: 495

Excellent.
I knew I had seen it, but I could't find it the other day

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 8th, 2018, 17:01:17
Reply: 496

Thanks Craig - I swapped this over today.  No difference  :(
Bent - interesting that there are several different variants.  I ended up modifying the hinge that I had to fit.  I still need to finish this off (repair and paint) but at least its another (IVA) job off the list.  Just wish the thing ran properly...

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: July 8th, 2018, 18:28:17
Reply: 497

I have not seen a circuit diagram for an SPI or MPI, but from experience the idle control valve is driven from an engine temperature sensor.   It may or may not be the same one that drives the gauge, you will need to consult the schematic.  That is where I would be looking from the symptoms you have described.  

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: July 9th, 2018, 17:17:55
Reply: 498

Swapped over the MAP sensor this evening with the one from the mini - no difference.
Craig, the temp sender was swapped out when this problem arose (appeared on the OBD2 read out) given that it was only a few quid.  Didn't fix it unfortunately.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 22nd, 2018, 13:10:05
Reply: 499

Sorry - no updates for a while (a few reasons why - broken wrist, laptop not working, problems at work) but the car went in for it's IVA on Friday 12/10/18.
It failed - as expected, but on relatively minor things (well, except for the brakes!).  I'll go into more details soon.  Suffice to say I've got a bit of time on my hands now, and a definitive list of things to correct.
Happy days :)

Posted by: mike brown Posted on: October 22nd, 2018, 19:10:26
Reply: 500

Congratulations on getting to an IVA. I look forward to hearing what your problems were.
Mike

Posted by: Craig Smith Posted on: October 23rd, 2018, 15:04:27
Reply: 501

The fact that you have put a smiley on your post says that it wasn't too bad a fail.

Look forward to hearing what you've got to remediate.

What was the cause of your running issue?

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 24th, 2018, 11:19:41
Reply: 502


Craig - yes, I was quite enthused after the test.  The three guys (Steve, Colin and Nick (who was an inspector/auditor reviewing Steve/Colin)) couldn't have been nicer, giving advice and the opportunity to rectify any problems they found there and then.
So what was wrong...

This was obviously the first time I've driven the car (to the test centre).  My wife followed me in her car and I had the tow rope, jump leads, fuel can etc in the car just in case  On driving it became apparent the suspension needed setting up, the car wandering a bit as I drove.  The brakes also felt a bit spongy - we'll come back to that.  I also noticed that the car came out of 4th gear on a light/closed throttle.  But the speedo worked (hmm...), as did the wipers (it was raining) and the lights.

So here's the list:
1.  The exhaust is blowing.  I moved/seperated the exhaust in trying to solve the revving problem and couldn't get the exhaust to rerseal properly.  I simply ran out of time to do this before the test but didn't want to postpone the test for a third time.
2.  Emissions not tested.  The car overheated.  I'll come back to this (related to the revving problem).
3.  Fuel pipe.  Insecure nearside rear axle.  The tester wants to see more P-clips securing this.
4.  Fuel pipes near heat source.  The tester wants to see the exhaust exiting from the right hand side instead of the left.  Not sure how much of a difference this'll make, but the exhaust is designed for both left & right exit so this shouldn't be too problematic.
5.  Fuel pipes in engine bay near to the exhaust manifold.  The tester wants to see a shield placed between the fuel pipes.  This applies to two areas of the fuel pipe routing.  The current set up is as per the MPi mini, but I can see why this is requested.  With a bit of inginuity this shouldn't bee to hard to devise.
6.  Steering.  On full right lock the tyre just contacts the lower coolant pipe.  I should've spotted this, but no great problem to solve I think.
7.  Handbrake linkage.  The routing of this has the brake cable running against the car floor.  I don't think this will cause a problem, but fitting a longer screw fitted with a spacer should solve this.
8.  Brake pipe - where this runs across the front of the front subframe the tester wants to see more security (P-clips) to hold this in place.
9.  Brake pipes - where the fuel pipes require more securing at the rear subframe (point 3 above), the rear brake pipes also need additional securing.
10.  Servo pipework.  The pipework runs through a convenient hole in the servo.  This requires a grommet/rubber edging put in place.
11.  Copper washer, master cylinder.  There was a copper sealing washer misisng from one of the unions (I should've noticed this).
12.  Brake warning light.  On lifting the master cylinder cap out of the fluid, the test light in the interior should illuminate.  It did briefly before not coming on again.  Annoying as it's a new cap.
13.  Braking.  Pedal goes all the way to the floor.
This is related to the pedal feeling spongy on first driving.  Turns out the master cylinder was failing.  The more the brakes were pressed during the test, the worse the pedal became to the point where I couldn't safely drive the car at the end of the test.  I'll come back to this.
14.  Interior fittings.  The door opening handle isn't rounded enough and the tester wants the handle turned the other way around (pointing down).  Also the window winders aren't rounded enough.  I've replaced these with standard mini items and put the door handles on 180 degrees about.
15.  Exterior projections.  The adjustable rear suspenion brackets have a screw thread.  On the MM this projects beyond the sill, this needs cutting down/covering up.
16.  Speedometer not checked.  The speedo packed in a few miles before getitng to the test centre.  I couldn't see anything obviously wrong with it - it still appeared attached at the speedo head.  The cable was against the exhaust manifold so I suspect the heat may have melted the casingbut will only know this when I take it off and inspect.  Worst case, the speedo drive gear have stripped in the gearbox (which will be bad.  I think you need to strip the gearbox to change these out).  Best case I need a new cable and re-route it.
17.  Vehicle data plate.  Axle weights aren't very clear (I stamped these on) and no all up weight shown.  I'll ask if I can etch this info on instead of stamping.
18.  Rear position lights dim.  These the tail lights.  Not sure what the answer is here - they're IVA approved LED tail lights.  Might need to get an auto electrician involved.
19.  Direction indicator, side repeater.  The LHS side repeater isn't visible from the rear of the vehicle.  These are angled units and I'd put the LHS unit in the wrong way around!
 Easy fix.
20.  Rear fog light not 'F/B' marked.  The lens on the fog light is 'E' marked but the fog light needs this plus an 'F' or 'B' mark.  Easy fix if I can find a suitable lense, otherwise I may have to fit an alternative light unit.
21.  Interior heater pipes.  These need a shield fititng in the passenger foot well, in case the pipes burst.
22.  Bolt holding heater in place needs to be shortened.
23.  Rear underbody cover contacts exhaust silencer.  The right hand panel I made now contacts the exhaust silencer - I suspect the exhaust has moved (shaken into it's 'natural' position) on driving the car.  I need to move the exhaust location anyway so hopefully no great problem.
24.  Engine breather hose touching exhaust manifold.
25.  No rear hub grease caps fitted.  Now in place.
26.  Nut security.  There wer a number of nuts that the tester wants to see fitted with spring washers, lock nuts or nylock nuts.
27.  Engine relay.  I secured this to the rear of the airbox fitting frame with a zip tie.  This wasn't acceptable.  I can't mount this in the same position as on the mini (on top of the servo) due to the bonnet height. I'll have to see if I can mount this on to thre bulkhead.
28.  Fuse box.  Insecure in the footwell.  I'll need to lok at this - this wasn't highlighted to me at the test but suspect it'll be the use of zip ties again.
29.  Insecure wiring.  This in the RHF engine bay area.  More P-clips to the inner wing required.
30.  Wiring through LHF inner wing.  Requires the rubber grommet fixing in place to shroud the entry through the inner wing (it had become detached).
31.  Starter motor main cable terminal.  Needs a cover putitng ont he terminal.


And thats it.  As I couldn't drive the car home, I contacted Green & White who came and collected the car (the test centre being halfway to their garage anyway).  They set up the suspension (including fitting negative camber arms) and diagnosed/fixed the brake problem (master cylinder, copper washer, master cylinder cap).
But as you'll see, I don't think there's anything too onerous to be addressed in the list.
I have six months from the test date to arrange the retest (which will only look at the items which failed).  And the test can be booked a year in advance meaning I have slightly less than 18 months to get the car retested.  Given that I've just been laid off at work and am planning to take a couple of weeks off to recharge the batteries before concentrating on finding another job, I'm going to look at doing a few hours each afternoon to work through this list.  So hopefully it won't take the full 18 months!


As for the revving problem - I asked G&W to look at this again while they had the car.  They confirmed that the car was indeed hitting the rev limiter (approx. 6300rpm) and that it is the rev counter in the car which is reading incorrectly.  However - the rev counter reads correclty, or near enough, at idle (around 850rpm).  It then must be on some sort of exponential curve until it hits the rev limiter (rev counter records around 3200rpm).  I'll need to look more into this, but in the short term I can live without a rev counter.
But when trying to test the emisions holding the car just below the point where the limiter cut in (3000rpm on the rev counter) the car got too hot so the test was abandonded.  I have to say - the car doesn't sound like it's revving it's nuts off, even when comparing it withthe mini running alongside with ~3000rpm on it's rev counter.
Most worrying is, I do think the car is running rich.  Now being injection/ecu controlled I'm not sure where the problem will lie.  Once I've worked through the list I'll try and get the car emissions tested at my local MoT test garage to confirm it is running rich and then look more in to this.

But I do have to say driving the car to the test, it drove in a more civilised (read 'quieter') manner than I feared it might.  So this bodes well for the car being used on a regular/daily basis.


So yes - smiley faces wrranted :)



Posted by: mike brown Posted on: October 24th, 2018, 16:35:54
Reply: 503

Well done that list is a bit longer than mine was but most of yours are easy fixes.
Mike

Posted by: Neil KilBane Posted on: October 25th, 2018, 13:40:01
Reply: 504

Nearly there Graham, you're on the homeward stretch.

Just to ease your mind a bit, the speedo drive on the gear box is not a gearbox strip job. The main speedo drive is easily removed by undoing the bolt on the drive housing.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 3rd, 2018, 16:53:16
Reply: 505

No. 6 - done.
No. 8 - done.
No. 10 - done.
No. 11, 12, 13 - done.
No. 14 - done.
No. 16 - in hand.  New cable ordered with the inner 15mm longer at each end.  I still need to check the pinion drive.  I've also ordered a heat sheath shield for the replacement cable.
No. 19 - done.
No. 20 - done.
No. 21, 22 - done.  The new shield piece looks quite good actually, an improvement over what was there before.
No. 23 - did I say it should be quite easy to get the exhaust exiting from the RHS?  It probably would if I could get the exhaust to seperate!  Even the hot blue spanner isn't working.  Hmm....
No. 24 - done.  I'll also put some heat sheath on this too.
No. 25 - done.
No. 27 - in hand.  I've made a bracket which I'll look to pop rivet to the bulkhead to mount this relay pack to but can't position/fix this until the speedo cable is in place.
No. 28 - done, I think.  There were four relays up behind the main fuse box (drivers footwell) which I've secured with tie wraps to the dash brace bar.  I'll need to check if tie wraps are acceptable.
No. 29, 30 - done.
No. 31 - in hand.  I need to find more suitable terminal covers to fit to some of these.

Just listing progress so I can keep the enthiusiasm going!  And because I've come to a bit of a standstill while I wait for a few things to arrive in the post.
The exhaust not coming apart is a bit of a bummer - I can even see me having to buy a replacement system at this rate.  As I say, even using heat and a chain strap wrench only succeded in crushing the pipe in a couple of places :(.


Posted by: mike brown Posted on: November 4th, 2018, 08:45:51
Reply: 506

No28 can you not cut a piece of Ali to have tabs for the relays to slide on to then rivet/screw it in place. Failing that the discovery has several of these rails that you may be able to cut off in a breakers (one of them is riveted in place I think behind the dash).
Mike

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: November 5th, 2018, 10:44:37
Reply: 507

Mike, I created aluminium locating tabs for the numerous relays which are mounted on the engine bay bulkhead.
The problem I had with these footwell relays is the position - to access these involves lying on my back with the sill digging into your mid-back, with you head in the footwell itself (perhaps why I missed these on the look over of the car before submitting for test).  I'm too old these days to do this for any length of time!
The only place I think I'd be able to mount a metal plate would be to the lower dash rail which I've used anyway for the cable ties.  I suspect I may have to change my solution though given that the cable tie wasn't acceptable for the main engine relay.  I'll ask the IVA guy when I've worked through the list fully.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 19th, 2019, 17:05:22
Reply: 508

Well, its been a while since I've posted (Happy New Year to All!) and I've been popping in to the garage and doing the odd bit of tinkering, working on the front end of the car sorting out the IVA points under the bonnet and in the front wheel arches.
So this afternoon I went to turn the car around which involved starting the engine for the first time in a good while.  Now while the car fired up fairly easily after a couple of churns, the left hand (red) light in the 3 clock instrument binnacle didn't extinguish so I switched the engine off.
Unfortunately I don't have the mini to compare with anymore but I think the left/red light is for charging, the right/orange (which did extinguish) is for oil.  Not being sure I switched the engine off as I say, but can someone with a better memory than me confirm the red light is for charging faults?
I ended up pushing the car around and up onto the ramps (backwards).  I'll look to make a start on the points I need to address on the rear of the car now (on the slightly less cold days at least).
:)

Posted by: Simon Robinson Posted on: January 19th, 2019, 21:42:32
Reply: 509

Red is battery, orange is oil pressure. If it's not run for a while, it could just be the battery charge has dropped so will need to run for a while so the alternator can charge it.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: January 20th, 2019, 16:12:39
Reply: 510

Thanks Simon - I thought it was the charging light but just wanted to be sure.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 4th, 2019, 19:06:43
Reply: 511

So, with others making such good progress on their cars I thought I'd better give an update.  Unfortunately not the one I wanted to give.
I've slowly been working through the list of IVA points, had booked the retest, and rebooked it, and delayed and changed the date again.  When to - 10th June (next Monday).
Last jobs were to get the rear lights swapped over (tail lights not bright enough - I now think I might have been sold 24v LED rear lights).  Arranged to get the car around to the garage (wanted the electrics done properly and tidied up) and the brake pedal started to go to the floor (again) and not return.
I've had the master cylinder rebuilt and had a nice firm pedal and the only thing I've done in that area since was to replace one of the pedal box mounting nut/bolt's for a longer item so I could fit a spring washer and still have threads showing.  So that'll have to be fixed again (brake pedal travel).
But while the car was in the garage I had them carry out an emissions test (today).  And it fails.  Miserably.
That year of engine should record around 0.3 (%CO2 I think) mine recorded 1.6.  So today I had to ring DVLA and try and reschedule the test only to be told I can't - I'll now need to got through the whole IVA test again :(.
so on a bit of a downer at the moment.  My own fault I suppose - should've pulled my finger out a bit, but hey ho - life gets in the way.

So - plan of attack:

1. Sort out the brake problem (again).  Once this is done I promise to sit in the car regularly, make brmm brmm noises and exercise the brake pedal often keeping everything moving (assuming this'll keep things working correctly).
2.  Sort the engine emissions.  First, get the sensors checked.  I've been told of a guy who is a bit of a Rover nut and has all of the old Rover test kit - I'll get him in to plug in to the OBD (or Rover's equivalent) and make sure they're all in order (or perhaps more hopefully not!).  If that doesn't work, accept I haven't put the engine together properly and pull the engine out (bugger).  (If this is the case, this might be the autumn/winter plan)

Watch this space (but don't hold your breath....)

Posted by: Simon_Pike Posted on: June 6th, 2019, 10:51:52
Reply: 512

fantastic work graham,just keep plodding on your nearly there

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 18th, 2019, 18:40:45
Reply: 513

Just a quick update - I managed to get the electronics guy with the MEMS test kit out to plug in to the car last week.  There was a fault with the coolant sensor repeatedly popping up.
At the weekend I found the plug on part of the sensor had a crack in it so not properly engaging I guess.  I dug out another engine harness that I have, found the correct plug and splice the replacement onto the fitted harness.

A point to note if you're ever fancying building an MPi powered car (other than perhaps don't!), Rover made available I think for the coolant sensor a replacement section of harness.  It seems they made the harness lengths JUST long enough to fit where it need to the result being they were string tight and chaffed at certain points.  That wasn't the problem here but does indicate these later cars might suffer electrical problems with the harnesses.

Anyway, hopefully this weekend I'll get the car run up, see if it runs any cleaner (I don't have an emissions tester to hand unfortunately).  Knowing that the plugs run very black I might do a compression test too, to see if perhaps it is the piston rings which are letting oil past.

But hopefully another little step closer to completion.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: September 21st, 2019, 18:39:08
Reply: 514

So the compression tester shows me all cylinders are 'in the green' on the gauge.  However the instructions on the gauge say a discrepancy across the cylinders of 1 bar or more shows a problem.  The lowest reading is 13 bar, the highest 14 bar.
The plugs are as black as ever, and with the engine warm, a hard blip of the throttle still shows a black cloud coming out of the exhaust.
I'll get the car plugged in the next chance I can to confirm the sensor is now soted, but it's looking like I'm going to have to pull the engine out :(

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: April 18th, 2020, 21:11:33
Reply: 515

Well, its been quite a while.  I hope you're all keeping well at this time, and making best use of the time we all have on our hands.
I'm still working, but with weekends now free (no football or cricket to take the kids to at weekends), and with the weather turning a bit warmer I spent last weekend and today back in the garage looking at the little orange beast.
I've made contact with Green & White in Durham, and was planning to get the car to them to have the engine problem diagnosed (they know the man with diagnostic equipment) to find out once and for all whether the engine needs another rebuild or its one of the sensors failed (making it run rich).  With this lockdown though, that's out of the window for now.
So I've been looking at the other little jobs that I had left to do, that were going to be done after getting the car on the road.  The first of these was to try and fit the wheel arch liners.  While these might not be required on a fibreglass car, I noticed (over the many years of crawling under the thing) that there's still plenty of space for crud to gather up in the top corners of the wings.  I also have a couple of electrical connectors running up in these spaces too.  I'm also hoping these will perhaps help reduce spray a bit, as the inner wings don't extend down quite as far as on a mini, and the ecu is mounted on the opposite (engine) side of the OSF inner wing.  
I started with the OSF corner, making a cardboard template, transferring this to the liner.  Unsurprisingly, the space is slightly different to that of a mini, so I had to do a little chopping.  After a bit of a fight, I managed to get a reasonable fit.
Moving on to the NSF I guess I got a bit too eager, or wasn't as careful with making the template.  Whatever the reason, I ended up cutting the area around the damper a bit to much.  If there's a silver lining to this, this makes getting the liner into position a bit easier!  I used one of the larger bits that I'd cut off, mounted with a pop rivet, to form a piece that, once the liner is in place, I can swivel around to close the gap.

So having cut and fettled these to fit all I need to do now is fix these in place - this is where I'm hoping someone can suggest something to glue these in place.
If Lotus and Aston Martin can glue whole chassis together, is there a suitable superstrong mastic type substance that you can recommend to glue these in position?

The other small job I'm looking to achieve is to fit the DAB antenna.  I'm looking to fix this onto the rear side window (passenger side), but the instructions say part of this needs to make contact with the metal of the (normal) car for earthing.  My thoughts are to run a cable (I have a reel of Halfords 8 amp cable in the garage - do we think that would work?) from the antenna to the earth cable bolt that is located in the passenger footwell.  Has anyone else got a DAB fitted to their plastic car and if so, what solution do you have for the antenna?

Well, hope you all stay safe.  Good to be back at it again!

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 3rd, 2020, 14:30:55
Reply: 516

Short update.
Had the car collected last Monday and taken away for electrical plug in diagnosis.
Early days, but received a call back the next day - the first fault found was no earth to the lambda sensor.  Possible broken wire in the (2nd hand) loom?
Anyway - that might (if I'm lucky) account for at least some of the emissions I'm seeing from the exhaust....

More to follow, I'm sure.

Stay safe :)

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: October 17th, 2020, 14:57:24
Reply: 517

Right then.
So, Green & White have had the car for a little over a week now and I'm pleased to say, it seems that I have built the engine correctly!  Good news.
They used a borescope down each cylinder and all appears fine (I was afraid that I'd done something wrong with the rings and ended up gouging lumps out of the cylinder walls).
They've also had the car on the Rover diagnostic on three separate occasions and all sensors are working and talking to each other.
Emissions are recorded as hydrocarbons reading 205 (200 allowed), but CO is still three times the allowed.

So what's next?  Well, after several calls and conversations it seems like these emission symptoms are typical of a modified MPi mini engine running the standard Rover MEMS ECU - it simply can't cope.
The Rover ECU 'defaults' to running rich to prevent detonation and engine damage when it doesn't understand the readings.
So a programable ECU is the way ahead.  And this is where I need some help.
I'll start another short thread about this (with a new title) in case someone isn't reading this one (or is bored after 10+ years!), and we'll see how we get on.


Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: May 28th, 2021, 14:10:34
Reply: 518

Right, so this afternoon I took the MM around the corner to my local garage who tested the emissions.  This was the readings:

For comparison we pulled up the MoT requirement for emmissions for my old MPi mini:

From this it can be seen that the CO reading is about four times what it should be (it was hovering around 1.3 - the camera caught it at a slightly lower reading of 1.18).
The fact that the car is reading 229 for hydrocarbons and the MoT requirement doesn't show any, I'm, not sure what this is telling me (i.e. is it mean to be zero hydrocarbons, or is it not measured at normal idle?)

So it would seem that I need to have the car mapped to correctly assess what the emissions could be.
And this is where things again get interesting and the questions begin.

While the car was idling, the guy testing the emission noticed that there was a coolant leak at the core plug at the end of the block, above the clutch cover:

This got me thinking (and worrying):
1. Could this have been as a result of the overheating that occurred during the first IVA test?  What other potential damage could've occurred?
2. When I tried to bed the cam in, I used the rev counter as a guide trying to hold it at around 2500rpm.  I now know the rev counter is far from accurate - i was probably holding the engine at around 4500-5000rpm.  Could this have glazed the bores/would this give the idle hydrocarbon reading?
3. Is it possible to change this core plug with the engine in situ?  I think there would be enough room to carefully knock in a new core plug, but how hard are these to remove?
4. Since changing the ecu/engine loom the car has had a tendency to blow fuse C7 (fuel pump fuse).  I checked the connection to the fuel pump (all tight), connections to the rear loom (seem good), looked at the connections of the new loom (again all look okay).  This habit seemed to stop when I managed to set a steady idle, but it happened again during the emission test.  Pulling the fuse out the fuse box it was hot and the plastic had slightly melted:

(I pulled the metal prongs out)
This has got me worried.  I really don't want the car to catch fire, but am unsure what else to check to find out what this electrical problem could be (would I be right in thinking there is an increase in resistance somewhere in this circuit leading to increased heat?).

Enthusiasm for continuing with this car is a bit low at the moment :(

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 2nd, 2021, 12:23:43
Reply: 519

So we've got the core plug out:


The larger hole is the 'corrosion' hole, the other put in by my removal method (stubby screwdriver and hammer).
I might have to get a stubby dolly machined to aid fitment of the replacement.  What do people recommend as a sealant when refitting these - instant gasket?  Or is there a specific product that's best to use?
What I did discover is that, due to the coolant hoses routing, it's not easy for me to empty the coolant.  I've ended up having to remove the radiator top hose, which allows the coolant to drain to a level, but no where near empty.

ETA Just noticed looking at the photos on screen, there are two corrosion holes by the look of it.  I've never come across core plugs corroding like this before.

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 2nd, 2021, 12:40:08
Reply: 520

I've removed the header tank for cleaning (it's pretty grimy inside) with bicarb and vinegar.  But when the core plugs back in I plan to top up with water, hopefully get the car running up to temperature and drain the coolant at the same place.  Doing this a couple of times should get most if not all of the old coolant out.
Following on from Steve's example I've updated my 'to do' board - more broad brush perhaps, history suggests Steve's progress will be much better than mine at crossing off the job list....

Posted by: Graham Bichard Posted on: June 11th, 2021, 17:48:00
Reply: 521

So I had a day off today and decided to fit the core plug.  Given the tight space available (and as I can't justify a hobby lathe!) I googled a local machine shop and had a couple of dolly's made up as it wasn't possible to easily fit in a socket to hit.

The company made these up for me while I waited - I was expecting to see a length of bar faced off in an old Colchester but they actually did this in a CNC milling machine in front of me.
CNC was just coming in to common use when I did my apprenticeship some 35 years ago (and wasn't something I've ever done) but it was fascinating to see.
I ended up asking for two thicknesses of dolly - 10mm thick and 20mm.  I also asked for a lip to be machined into one side.
These allowed me to fit the core plug this afternoon.

I used instant gasket around the circumference of the plug/hole, but can see from the photograph that the plug isn't quite square - is this going to cause me problems?  Am I going to have to refit this (I do have a second core plug if needed)?
I'm also having second thoughts about trying to better drain the old coolant before refilling with new stuff, as I won't be able to accurately know the strength of the coolant.  I'll still use only water in the meantime, but want to have it correctly mixed on completion.

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