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  Author    Jem advice please  (currently 7,280 views)
Chris_Pilling
Posted on: January 9th, 2017, 17:03:08 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello chaps,

I'm in the process of possibly buying a jem. I've been to look at it and it's been modified a bit and I'd like to put it back to standard. I remember someone on here bought the moulds for the mk2 and I'm wondering  about the possibility of a replacement bulkhead panel?

Also it's had the rear window adapted into two sections presumably for a hidden boot area and I again want to put it back to standard. So if I do buy it can somebody possibly make a template of the rear windows area so I can put it back to standard?

Also what sort of price should I be paying for it? It's a running project that needs quite a lot of re commissioning.

Finally the only body Id I could see on it was a alloy plaque with a number which looked nothing like what I'm familiar with (marcos ones) is that just home made or correct? It was in the drivers floorwell

Any advice would be greatly welcomed!
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: January 9th, 2017, 17:04:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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(Upper bulk head panel)
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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 9th, 2017, 17:43:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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Chris , You need to show photos of what needs to be repaired, as for Prices Hah , The last one i seen sold on ebay complete but needed a complete strip down and rebuild was £4000 + and nothing in the engine bay was special , I thought that was quite steep !!!!!! , But as you will know Mini's are fetching ridiculous prices and so the Derivatives will follow, Look at the registration document to see if it is correct , as for the I.D. , look on the photo's in the gallerias and you will see were the ID usually is under the bonnet on the nearside bulkhead , Hope this helps , Sure more members will post also Chris , Good luck if you buy it
Goff
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: January 9th, 2017, 18:09:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello and thank you. Yes if I buy it I will upload some photos. I had a look at the v5c and it's down as a coupe.. can you forsee a problem with this? It has old MOT'S where it's been mot'd as a jem etc

Where the I.D would be, that is the full section that needs replacing/making

Last modified January 9th, 2017, 18:10:01 by Chris_Pilling
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mike brown
Posted on: January 9th, 2017, 18:19:53 Quote Report to Moderator
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I have the moulds and yes I can help. Originally the upper bulkhead above the crossmember was just some hardboard glassed over with an access hole in the middle. I do have a mould of a mini bulkhead that was intended to be adapted to be used to improve this area. Do you need a template of the window or the surrounding area as said a photo would help.
Mike
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: January 9th, 2017, 19:20:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello mike,

That's wonderful! Well I have just organised to buy it and collect it on Saturday so will upload some photos then!

After Geoff's advice to look at the bulkheads in the gallery for the body plate/number I have had look  at the bulk heads and I need to decide on carburettor set ups as I may end up fitting a webber. But its great to know the standard/mini option is there.
Also regarding the rear I will take some photos at the weekend. I'm going to need both the window surround and the rear glass shape should we say as the adapted modification has the lower part of  what would be the standard surround at 90 degrees in each corner instead of being curved!

It's also sporting suicide style doors   which need putting back to being hung the correct way round!
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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 9th, 2017, 20:14:06 Quote Report to Moderator
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Chris is it a MK1 or 2 or 3 , Mk1 as the sliding windows like the first mini's , Mk2&3 have windows that lift up and down , I have just started a full restoration , So you would be able to follow that as it might help you along the way , Where are you based  ????, As Mike says above the part above the Cross member is just straight and would be easy to repair .

Goff
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 06:07:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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I'm pretty sure it's a mk2 and I'm based in Preston Lancashire.  Where do I find your restoration page Geoff?
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 08:29:50 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Here it is

http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?b=MJ,v=display,m=1288741782,s=all

 
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 19:43:53 Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks for the link! Looks a nice build! It was supposed to be on the back burner restoring this one but I'm itching to get on with it now!

I'm just wondering if anyone has reproduced the rear side opening windows with the ally/chrome frames? This one I've bought has fixed glass ones and I'd like to fit the other type..

Another on my list is badges? Or are these items rocking horse poo poo?
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Goff_Allen
Posted on: January 10th, 2017, 20:04:36 Quote Report to Moderator
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Chris
That is not my thread above , Mine is under Goff_Allen , two threads , one is about 12 down from yours and the new one i have started is 3 down from yours ,
The side opening windows , Mine were also missing , I tried without luck so i opted for the fixed ones ,Maybe you could get some fabricated out of Aluminium, The profile is very unusual though ,  Badges , Do you mean the front and rear Mini Jem ones , The club sell those , I had a pair made by the local vinyl people in resin,

Regards

Goff  
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: February 1st, 2017, 19:38:59 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello, I'm trying to upload some photos but I don't seem to be able to fathom it out!!! Can anyone help please!?

Also has anybody got a new bonnet they want to sell for a mk2
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mike brown
Posted on: February 1st, 2017, 19:48:53 Quote Report to Moderator
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I have the mould and can make one. Pm me for details.
Mike
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admin
Posted on: February 1st, 2017, 22:00:41 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Chris_Pilling, posted February 1st, 2017, 19:38:59 at here
Hello, I'm trying to upload some photos but I don't seem to be able to fathom it out!!! Can anyone help please!?

Also has anybody got a new bonnet they want to sell for a mk2



You can upload one photo per post with a size up to 0.15MiB. That's to stop people uploading very large photos as the forum scripts don't scale them down. You need to use the 'more post options' form to post. Alternatively you can park the photos on another site and then include an img tag in your message (or use Blah code - see the help pages). Ort failing that email them to me and I'll post them for you.

I might have a small bulge bonnet suitable for small block engines (mk.1 & 2 shells only).
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: February 2nd, 2017, 20:27:24
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Guys I keep going to the bit where it says choose file (which I then do ) but then it selects one but doesn't attach it!? It's resized to no more than 153.6 KB and jpg format where am I going wrong?

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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: February 2nd, 2017, 20:27:47 Quote Report to Moderator
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It did it! Haha!
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: February 2nd, 2017, 20:28:17
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Img

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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: February 2nd, 2017, 20:28:51
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: February 2nd, 2017, 20:29:57
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: February 2nd, 2017, 20:35:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello chaps, how would you lot tackle the rear windows problem?  I want to put it back to as it should be. Should I get a template or ask the chap with the molds to make up a bit to let in so to speak?
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mike brown
Posted on: February 2nd, 2017, 21:26:34 Quote Report to Moderator
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To sort the rear window I would prepare the edge of the opening ready for laminating (grind and feather it back). Then wax a smooth flexible board (formica or metal sheet works well) and fix it tight down over the area you will need to cut it to follow the contour around the top of the window to stop it lifting. You can screw, weight or tape it down it doesn't matter how as long as it's tight. Then apply gel to the sheet into around 8-10" in from the edge of the current cut out. Once cured lay up 3 layers of 450g chopped strand mat over the gel and onto the body by 2" staggering each layer an extra 1" each time. This would be easier if the shell was upside-down but that depends on your plans however it's not to bad with a little patients. Once cured remove external sheet I would then grind the joint line about 2" wide and add one layer to the outside to stop a cracking forming along the joint later this can the be sanded, filled and faired with either gel or body filler (body filler will shrink more than gel). Once your happy you can mark out the shape of the original hole and cut it out.

You will need pretty much the above procedure even if I made a section for you to let in.
Mike
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: February 2nd, 2017, 21:59:04 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi mike, thanks for your advice!

Sorry, Did you mean fix the formica/metal sheet to the inside or the outside of the body? The rest I understood thank you!
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mike brown
Posted on: February 2nd, 2017, 22:51:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Outside as it will pull round to the shape nicely.
Mike
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mike brown
Posted on: February 4th, 2017, 09:01:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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Having another look at the pictures the top half of the rear window looks to follow the stock line. The lower section appears to be roughly the right place in the middle just the rounded sides that lead into the top half have been cut square. So I think your fix will be those two corners and removing the middle bar. I would leave the centre bar in while rebuilding the corners as I think it will help with the shape though this may not be the case in reality.
I love the suicide door conversion that wouldn't make it scary to drive at all.
Mike
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: June 7th, 2017, 14:46:41 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello,

could anyone possibly do me a MASSIVE favour and make me a rear glass template out of paper which could be then posted to me so I can sort out correcting the rear window aperture on my shell. As I'm struggling to sort it without one.

Cheers Chris
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John_Campbell
Posted on: June 7th, 2017, 15:56:19 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi Chris, Where are you? I have an old (knackered) rear plastic screen that may be of use to you for this job. I'm in Norwich.
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: June 7th, 2017, 19:58:34 Quote Report to Moderator
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I'm in Preston Lancashire! I could pay the postage if your willing to post it off up-to me? If it's not to much trouble!

Cheers Chris
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John_Campbell
Posted on: June 7th, 2017, 21:59:02 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi Chris, email me your address and I'll get it out & send it.
FYI it's no good for anything else as it's 40 years old and I've drilled a few holes in it when I was rejigging the rear screen hole in my Jem. It had become warped and I had to get it flat again so it would fit the new screen.
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mike brown
Posted on: June 8th, 2017, 05:55:24 Quote Report to Moderator
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Failing that I can template the rear hatch mould but an old screen is probably better for what you want.
Mike
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admin
Posted on: June 8th, 2017, 22:20:49 Quote Report to Moderator
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I have made a hardboard template for the Jem rear hatch, with the intention of getting some made in Lexan (polycarbonate). They won't be cheap but will be much lighter than glass. If you are interested please email me. I can add more to the order if needed.

I would advise not using laminated glass. It is very heavy and is inclined to crack if you let the rear hatch drop on its prop, so if you are using glass get toughened.
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admin
Posted on: June 8th, 2017, 22:24:01 Quote Report to Moderator
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Btw I strongly recommend fitting a rear hatch on a Mk.2 or 3.

I hope you put the door hinges back where they should be!
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: June 10th, 2017, 20:03:08 Quote Report to Moderator
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Cheers Mike,

I think your right! John I have sent you a pm! Thanks again chaps!
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Chris_Pilling
Posted on: June 10th, 2017, 20:05:45 Quote Report to Moderator
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Oh I will most certainly be rehanging the doors correctly!! I know they can be a bugger with no rear hatch but I think to my taste it style over practicality! May live to regret that though!
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admin
Posted on: June 27th, 2017, 19:15:40 Quote Report to Moderator
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You can always fit a hatch later. The window aperture is exactly the same.
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