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  Author    Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc  (currently 14,452 views)
Graham Bichard
Posted on: November 4th, 2010, 20:29:44 Quote Report to Moderator
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Stuart, that pic was for illustrative purposes only - this is the rear panel:

I'm after two lights per side - indicator and brake/tail.  You can see the fog / reverse lights fitted but I'll also need to position two reflectors, of course.
This is the Heritage demonstrator:

I like the flat, round LED look (I know Richard's not so keen...), so could reposition 95mm items to 'cover' the existing holes but they may look squashed.  Perhaps the answer is to use the existing round bulb holders for the traditional look, but with LED bulbs for that modern twist  .
Who'd have thought finding a suitable light cluster would be so hard - I've obviously got too much time on my hands  
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chris clarke
Posted on: November 4th, 2010, 23:07:44
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what about these they are 95mm,standard bulbs but i believe you can get them in led.Mine are wipac brought from kit car show a few years ago but at knebworth this year i brought some the same in durite packets,amber part no 0-768-18, stop/tail part no 0-768-18.hope this helps. sorry picture not too clear its a bit tight in the garage and did'nt want to put it out in rain

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chris clarke
Posted on: November 4th, 2010, 23:16:26
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heres a long distance shot

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Graham Bichard
Posted on: December 2nd, 2010, 19:35:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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More bits arrived:
Cinq rad

decieded on these rear lights (similar to the demonstrators), a bit bigger than I would like (95mm - I may have to fill and re-paint the rear panel):

They have a lip so I could bond them in to give a water tight seal, but the central light is removable and has a small circumfrencial (can't spell that!) gap which could let in water:

And this:

An SW5i with suitable (double) valve springs:

Didn't get anything done this last weekend when I was up home - this is going to take forever! What the longest recorded build?
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 20th, 2011, 22:28:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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The cylinder heads complete, assembled, chambers mearsured (23cc +- 0.1cc).  This takes care of the exhaust side:

From Specialist Components, stainless and going to be wrapped in exhaust heat wrap.  I've also got some ceramic/ali heat shielding from Zircotec, to be attached to the bulkhead/transmission tunnel (Zircoflex I think it's called).
I've stuck the MPi fuel lines stuck onto the bottom of the shell.  I can't use the channel moulded into the floorpan except at the incline at the rear, which is just forward of where I had to cut the pipes.

I've also been attacking the shell, putting holes into it:

Can anyone give any recommendations for pop rivets to use?  Or am I best off using small zinc coated nuts/bolts?  Lee - didn't you use Riv-nuts?
Oh, and sorry if these pictures turn out poorly - they were taken on the phone(!!!)

Last modified February 20th, 2011, 22:32:55 by Graham Bichard
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: February 20th, 2011, 23:24:17 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Here is a photo of the pipes fitting

Smaller clips perhaps ?



 

Last modified February 20th, 2011, 23:26:41 by Neil KilBane
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 21st, 2011, 16:56:15 Quote Report to Moderator
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Neil, thats how I would mount them if I wasn't using the MPi lines (I'm still tempted to make my own up though  ) except there are three - supply, return and charcoal cannister.  I want to use the MPi lines if possible because they have the correct fitting for the fuel rail connections (plus I have them!).  When they're bolted to the floor they will pull up closer to the floorpan than in the picture - the tape was just to give me an idea of where they would sit.  In addition I can fit the pipe protector that the MPi's have where the pipes pass from the bulkhead to the floorpan, and by using the recess at the rear, they will be that little bit higher/protected.
One other thing - the pipes run between the bulkhead and steering rack and it's very tight ( the pipes contact the gaiter).  I'm not sure how IVA will view this - I take it this is the normal position for these pipes?

Last modified February 21st, 2011, 16:59:56 by Graham Bichard
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: February 21st, 2011, 17:06:57 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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Any point in extending one of  the pipes to have it fitting in the channel with the break line ?

 
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 21:05:46 Quote Report to Moderator
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Right, I decided to mount the fuel lines today - after all, its only a 6mm hole!  This is the result:

As thought, doing the nuts up pulled the pipes in tighter to the body.  And I've spaced the clips evenly at 10".  I thought about shortening the protruding part of the bolt, but chose to put an extra (nyloc) nut on instead thinking if it was to ground out this may at least give it some extra protection.  What do you think - is it still going to be too low?
I also offered up the Cinq radiator:

I placed it on both sides of the bulkhead (it could fit quite snuggly on the engine side) but I think this is the better option (there's pictures of other peoples fitments on here somewhere - I'l do a search), what I'm thinking now is, if I mount the rad as in the picture should I extend the cutout which was put in for the oil cooler, putting in a radius at both ends?

Would this weaken the panel noticeably?
ETA I must remember to take my camera next time I work on the car!

Last modified February 26th, 2011, 21:09:55 by Graham Bichard
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admin
Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 21:21:29 Quote Report to Moderator
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The fuel lines look a bit vulnerable. I'd be inclined to run them inside the car even if that means you have to glas over them.

Have you tried laying the radiator down over the hole at the front, whith the electric fan behind it? That will leave more room to get at the distributor, starter motor, oil filter, etc.
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Peter Bremner
Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 21:44:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hello, as Admin suggests, leaning the radiator forward will give much better access and force more air through the radiator.



If you look where the front panel has been cut away, you'll see the dizzy and the starter motor would be very close to the panel. By leaning it forward, I was able to drop the engine in from the top. I just had to turn it through 45 degrees to slide it in. With the rad vertical, it wouldn't have been possible.
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 22:07:35 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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My radiator is parallel to the lower panel rather than vertical.

 
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 22:23:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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Glad to see everyone else is enjoying a thrilling Saturday night too!  
Richard, I was worried that the pipes would be vunerable too, but they've pulled up quite tight to the shell and I'm not lloking at lowering the car too much.  But I will see when the car's ever on its wheels, and may make up my own pipes to run through the channel in the floorpan, and use only the pipe ends (for the fuel rail connections).
Peter, Neil, I did place the rad against the inclined panel to see what the fit would be like.  It did look as if a fair bit of the rad would be shielded by the bodywork, hence my thinking the verticle position, on the front face of the bulkhead would be best (with a fan fitted to the front face) while opening up the cutout for maximum effectiveness, but I'm prepared to change my mind!  I'll dig out the Cinq rad thread and look at the pictures on that (probably your picture again Peter!) and have another fit up next time I'm up here.
While I'm thinking about it, does anyone have any overheating problems with an inclined Cinq rad?  Maybe I'm imagining problems which aren't there!
Oh, and I don't have a distributor to worry about Richard (only the coil pack)!  But the oil filter's a good point!

Last modified February 26th, 2011, 22:33:19 by Graham Bichard
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Graham Bichard
Posted on: February 26th, 2011, 22:48:32 Quote Report to Moderator
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Found it!
http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?b=GB,m=1284065290,s=all
Looks like against the inclined face is the way to go!
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admin
Posted on: February 27th, 2011, 09:19:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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Another advantage of leaning the rad forwards is that the air flow on the engine side is much better, particularly if you cut back the fibreglass as Peter has done. The Cinq rad may be too tall to lie down flat but you'll get plenty of air through it. You can put some fibreglass in  to stop the air leaking around the side. The front opening is going to shovel just as much air in whichever way the rad is fitted.
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